tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-377823092024-03-19T13:09:35.061+08:00沉溺的時間在地圖上每一道短暫的光陰Laxichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04802970745091107114noreply@blogger.comBlogger536125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37782309.post-80542179066334571082024-02-25T02:08:00.003+08:002024-02-26T00:49:48.944+08:00日本山陽行 + 貓島第三彈 Day 4-1:姬路城好古園.活水軒穴子魚套餐<div>今天又是很鬆的行程,睡到太陽升到半天高,把空氣都曬得暖一些後,才甘願離開煤油爐吹得暖暖的房間。在姬路的最後一站,要來去姬路城旁邊的好古園,中午過後移動去岡山,接著再跨過瀨戶內海,晚上抵達四國的松山即可。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537048771/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1031"><img alt="IMG_1031" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537048771_f972298a3e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /></div><span><a name='more'></a></span><div><br /></div><div>與昨日一樣往姬路城的方向走去,今天已是星期一上班日,人潮少了許多,倒是大手前公園聚集了許多小攤子。好奇地靠過去瞧瞧,原來正在是二手跳蚤市場,繞了一圈,好多居家小物,只是還要好幾天才回台灣,旅程要帶著走,還是看看就好。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537475910/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1208"><img alt="IMG_1208" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537475910_cf7a308739_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>相較之下,對面的人力車略顯冷清,畢竟非週末,遊客也較少。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537370264/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1030"><img alt="IMG_1030" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537370264_81891c73a1_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>沿著內堀西行,石垣與樹倒映在平靜的河面,慢慢走著,一整個悠閒。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537473080/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1036"><img alt="IMG_1036" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537473080_d2f561ce36_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537473090/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1034"><img alt="IMG_1034" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537473090_59d58727ac_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>內堀轉彎處,就是好古園的入口。</div><div><br /></div><div>好古園的正式名稱是<a href="https://www.himeji-machishin.jp/ryokka/kokoen/index.php" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">姫路城西御屋敷跡庭園好古園</a>,名稱雖然很長,卻可以拆開來看,顧名思義,就是姫路城西御屋敷跡庭園,加上在江湖時代曾有間入古堂的藩校。</div><div><br /></div><div>這座藩校可以回溯到元祿5年(1692年),由上野國前橋藩第6代藩主 - 酒井忠相,設立開校。寬延2年(1749年)第9代藩主 - 酒井忠恭,移封姬路,成了播磨國姬路藩初代藩主,好古堂隨著搬遷至姬路城內的元藩會所。之後曾移至大手門南側,到了姫路藩第5代藩主 - 酒井忠學當主時,將其遷至現在入口的位置,將其擴建。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537475885/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1207"><img alt="IMG_1207" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537475885_8fe004126f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>好古園與姬路城有聯合套票,不過我們已經用了姬路馬大會提供的門票逛了姬路城,所以單買好古園的門票是310円。如果持有有效期限內的<a href="https://www.surutto.com/tickets/kansai_thru_hantaiji.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">關西周遊卡</a>,可以打8折,而我們前兩天就把手中的2日券用盡,今日無用武之地。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537048781/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1039"><img alt="IMG_1039" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537048781_6b6aa878f4_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>園內的空間以築地塀相隔,每一個屋敷門與長屋門內都是一個庭園。走進入口,首先見到的是御屋敷の庭,裡面是活水軒,我們的午餐處,先跳過,最後再來。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537048736/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1040"><img alt="IMG_1040" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537048736_1676b281fd_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>突然,出現一隻虎斑喵從裡面跑了出來,邊帶著小跳躍的腳步,邊看著我們,是要帶我們去逛逛嗎~?</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537048721/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1044"><img alt="IMG_1044" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537048721_4c40157423_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53536169412/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1042"><img alt="IMG_1042" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53536169412_510fd61901_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>園內指標牌的高度為什麼了做那麼低,我突然懂原因了!</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537370134/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1043"><img alt="IMG_1043" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537370134_a2ff9fc0c1_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>路邊的野草不要吃啊!而且,你一直吐著小舌,忘了收了!</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537472995/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1046"><img alt="IMG_1046" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537472995_45377bfbdc_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537472970/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1048"><img alt="IMG_1048" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537472970_91fbf6aff8_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>等等!你要我們去柵門外嗎?那邊是園外耶!</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537473015/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1045"><img alt="IMG_1045" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537473015_6efbcdd1f4_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>你就直接鑽到外面了...那我們就自己去逛庭園囉!</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537370034/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1050"><img alt="IMG_1050" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537370034_7bedcb7bc5_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>剛剛已經把<a href="https://www.himeji-machishin.jp/ryokka/kokoen/index.php" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">姫路城西御屋敷跡庭園好古園</a>,拆出好古園了,再來就是西御屋敷跡庭園了。既然有"跡",就表示這裡曾經是西御屋敷的位置,是元和4年(1618年)由本多忠政為了側室所建造的居館,也就是當時姬路城城主,位在好古園的北側,南側是武家屋敷。</div><div><br /></div><div>到了江湖時代中期的享保年間,城主榊原政岑無視第8代將軍德川吉宗儉約令,不但行為奢侈,還讓吉原的名妓高尾太夫入住西御屋敷,惹怒了德川吉宗,下令榊原政岑隱居,由長子榊原政純繼任家督,並代替受罰,轉封到冰雪嚴寒的越前國高田藩。</div><div><br /></div><div>附帶一提,這裡也是電影《神劍闖江湖(るろうに剣心) 最終章The Beginning》的拍攝場景之一,緋村拔刀齋在這裡襲擊幕府武士一行人,清里明良死前在拔刀齋臉上劃下一道刀痕,頑強的執念,讓劍心臉頰上的刀疤無法淡化。</div><div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537472915/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1052"><img alt="IMG_1052" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537472915_9165795d17_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537472910/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1054"><img alt="IMG_1054" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537472910_648bbf3918_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /></div></div><div><br /></div><div>好古園的上半部有御屋敷の庭之外,旁邊有茶の庭與苗の庭。茶の庭一進去就是双樹庵茶室,茶室建築由茶道流派裏千家的第15代家元 - 千宗室,進行設計與監修,以江戶時代武家屋敷茶室的想定去設計,打造京都數寄屋造的建築風格。</div><div><br /></div><div>據說裡面每一間茶室都面向著姬路城天守,只是我們在門口被前面的遊客卡了一會,就先去逛別處,後來也忘了再回來了。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537051546/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1206"><img alt="IMG_1206" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537051546_48f3edda34_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>苗の庭的入口要繞到後方才會見到,背景有西之丸的渡櫓。</div><div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53536169327/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1056"><img alt="IMG_1056" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53536169327_5a628116e2_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53536169297/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1057"><img alt="IMG_1057" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53536169297_41c5a66b8e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /></div></div><div><br /></div><div>至於<a href="https://www.himeji-machishin.jp/ryokka/kokoen/index.php" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">姫路城西御屋敷跡庭園好古園</a>全名的庭院部分,在進入明治、大正、昭和時代後,陸軍省進駐,隨著軍備擴張,第10師團進駐姬路,成了不折不扣的軍事都市,姬路城周遭設置了許多練兵場、兵營、官廳等等與陸軍相關設施,步兵第39連隊就設置在西御屋敷。二戰結束後,住宅及店鋪取而代之,西御屋敷的地上成了國鐵JNR的宿舍及托兒所。隨著急速的經濟成長與都市擴張後,發展地方都市特色越加被重視,姬路城周遭列為特別史跡地進行開發,西御屋敷就朝著紀念庭園的方向進行整備。</div><div><br /></div><div><div>為了紀念姬路實施市制100週年,由京都大學的名譽教授 - 中村一,負責設計 ,在這過去是西御屋敷與武家屋敷的位置處,打造了1萬坪的日式庭園,於平成4年(1992年)開園。</div><div><br /></div><div>這是一座游池與溪流相互貫連的日式庭院,也就是池泉回遊式庭園。日本最著名的池泉回遊式庭園是有三大名園之稱的金澤兼六園、水戶偕樂園、岡山後樂園,雖然好古園沒有它們知名,但與世界遺產又日本國寶第一名城的姬路城借景,也是名號響亮。</div></div><div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53536169262/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1059"><img alt="IMG_1059" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53536169262_76637af655_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53536169247/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1060"><img alt="IMG_1060" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53536169247_9e887836e1_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /></div></div><div><br /></div><div>好古園的下半部,分兩區。左邊有四座庭院,其中流れの平庭、夏木の庭、松の庭,彼此相隔,卻又有流水相貫;花の庭則藏在松の庭深處;右邊是築山池泉の庭與竹の庭。</div><div><br /></div><div>我們就從流れの平庭、夏木の庭、松の庭,先來逛起,借古人的閒情雅致,享受靜謐之美。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537048486/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1064"><img alt="IMG_1064" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537048486_49c42d9ba1_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537369824/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1065"><img alt="IMG_1065" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537369824_b3592a579a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>一走進來就有座流翠亭,有著優雅溪水從亭下流過。這種用立柱架著棚頂的涼亭,結構簡易又視野開放,又稱為四阿或東屋。今天的陽光很舒服,不用躲太陽,陰影處反倒是有點冷,就繼續沿著流水慢慢晃。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537048491/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1067"><img alt="IMG_1067" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537048491_a6d5175025_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537472645/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1068"><img alt="IMG_1068" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537472645_0808b3b3cf_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537048441/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1069"><img alt="IMG_1069" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537048441_8d5a78322f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537048446/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1071"><img alt="IMG_1071" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537048446_ef81220542_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>遙望姬路城,天守清晰可見。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53536170127/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1077"><img alt="IMG_1077" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53536170127_dba7a98dcf_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537473780/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1080"><img alt="IMG_1080" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537473780_b343aa2229_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div></div><div>溪流在四季不同的植栽之間徜徉,枯枝、橙黃、翠綠、橘紅,然後一個迴轉的曲流,鑽入格柵的另一端。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537233438/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1072"><img alt="IMG_1072" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537233438_c1d1eb7f7d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537473165/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1074"><img alt="IMG_1074" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537473165_e2ea2fb449_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537234523/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1076"><img alt="IMG_1076" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537234523_0eed06c1cb_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537234478/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1081"><img alt="IMG_1081" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537234478_118c2c4db5_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>格柵另一端是夏木の庭,庭園內以夏天生長、秋冬休眠的落葉樹為主,所以現在這時節,梢頭皆枯,另有一種蕭瑟感。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537234468/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1083"><img alt="IMG_1083" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537234468_03d1a3d4ac_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53536170037/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1084"><img alt="IMG_1084" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53536170037_5d035ae131_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537473740/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1088"><img alt="IMG_1088" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537473740_0e90d09712_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537473575/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1109"><img alt="IMG_1109" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537473575_3ec4c9bae3_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537049291/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1110"><img alt="IMG_1110" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537049291_dfeb328f01_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /></div></div><div><br /></div><div>夏木の庭的鷺望亭,鷺就是指姬路城,只是隨著眼前樹木的生長,坐在亭內會愈來愈難看到天守了。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537234433/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1089"><img alt="IMG_1089" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537234433_7178875a9c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537049351/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1096"><img alt="IMG_1096" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537049351_f2386f8de5_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537234428/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1090"><img alt="IMG_1090" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537234428_bca697ce2f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537370689/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1098"><img alt="IMG_1098" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537370689_a170ac938d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53536169902/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1100"><img alt="IMG_1100" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53536169902_6c190c1651_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>美麗別緻的造景,每一處的景象都獨樹一格,曲流蜿蜒,時而靜止如池,時而流水潺潺。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537370714/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1093"><img alt="IMG_1093" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537370714_0c37f5953e_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53536169907/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1101"><img alt="IMG_1101" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53536169907_9170e02313_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537049336/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1102_1"><img alt="IMG_1102_1" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537049336_936a4711f4_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53536169872/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1106"><img alt="IMG_1106" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53536169872_497cf0cb5d_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53536170172/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1111"><img alt="IMG_1111" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53536170172_30698c2d39_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53536171722/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1112"><img alt="IMG_1112" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53536171722_68133785a4_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>走進松の庭,溪流邊的景色轉換成來自瀨戶的松林,彷彿正扭著身軀,爭奇鬥勝。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537051046/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1114"><img alt="IMG_1114" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537051046_c707c67536_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537051051/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1115"><img alt="IMG_1115" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537051051_6f6705f85c_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537475400/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1117"><img alt="IMG_1117" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537475400_4199d57940_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537372294/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1121"><img alt="IMG_1121" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537372294_4a4b43f38d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53536171572/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1127"><img alt="IMG_1127" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53536171572_103891c973_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537235873/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1129"><img alt="IMG_1129" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537235873_8ab6c3b013_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537235878/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1132"><img alt="IMG_1132" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537235878_103891c973_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537372239/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1135"><img alt="IMG_1135" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537372239_c30b19bfa0_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537235778/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1136"><img alt="IMG_1136" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537235778_bf9ec0704c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537475180/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1141"><img alt="IMG_1141" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537475180_e468673021_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /></div></div><div><br /></div><div>松の庭內的花の庭,中間一坐花笠亭,江戶時期盛行的花種,圍繞在四周。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537235943/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1119"><img alt="IMG_1119" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537235943_e3a5c346b3_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>這裡特別介紹了日光槭(メグスリノキ / Acer maximowiczianum),它的葉子在春夏之際摘取,可以作成天婦羅。樹皮、嫩枝、葉子,曬乾後煮茶,可以改善眼睛與肝臟的健康。</div><div><br /></div><div>在西方醫學傳入之前,室町至江戶時代,被製作成眼藥水使用,黑田孝高(黑田官兵衛)的祖父 - 黑田重隆,就是靠這起家。黑田重隆原本住在備前國(現今的福岡),因為戰亂來到播磨國,他將樹皮搗碎,用紅色絹布包起來煎,再把煎出來的汁滴進眼睛即可,稱為玲珠膏。</div><div><br /></div><div>黑田重隆與井口太夫(姬路廣峯神社的神官)共謀,把眼藥和御守一起賣給來祈禱的信徒。結果眼藥的療效出奇的好,黑田重隆進而發財成為地方豪族的國人眾。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537372299/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1120"><img alt="IMG_1120" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537372299_b632dbea05_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div>松の庭這一側的出入口與其他庭院不同,是長屋門的形式,是江戶時期陣屋與武家屋敷常用的正門。長屋門的對面,便是築山池泉の庭。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537050846/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1145"><img alt="IMG_1145" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537050846_805dcd8304_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537235708/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1146"><img alt="IMG_1146" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537235708_444976c2fd_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537372139/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1147"><img alt="IMG_1147" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537372139_5583e1b570_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>築山池泉の庭有個著名的四阿,就是池邊的臨泉亭,至於哪裡有名?我猜大概是木造茅葺的棚頂,以及半懸在池面上,與池中的錦鯉更近了些~</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537050786/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1148_1"><img alt="IMG_1148_1" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537050786_5386b39df1_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53536171412/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1150"><img alt="IMG_1150" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53536171412_e0b575c156_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53536171392/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1149"><img alt="IMG_1149" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53536171392_ddb6181c4f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537475075/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1151"><img alt="IMG_1151" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537475075_7d05108393_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537235603/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1155"><img alt="IMG_1155" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537235603_c1d82e63b8_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537235613/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1156"><img alt="IMG_1156" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537235613_0e30a1dc4b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537371954/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1158"><img alt="IMG_1158" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537371954_6a0740e468_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537371974/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1160"><img alt="IMG_1160" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537371974_40ca619b5e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537050731/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1161"><img alt="IMG_1161" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537050731_e86acda153_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>竹の庭與築山池泉の庭之間沒有格柵分隔,然而,高大的細竹與低矮的箭竹,直接區隔出兩處的不同。竹林中央一座似八角和傘般的聞竹亭,配上一口水井,井口用竹簾蓋著,沒有人掀開,不曉得是否真為一座水井。這也不是重點,重點是享受竹林中的優遊暇豫~</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537235513/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1163"><img alt="IMG_1163" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537235513_4f82291fb0_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537051061/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1164"><img alt="IMG_1164" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537051061_bcf9d56a1c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537476350/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1165"><img alt="IMG_1165" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537476350_49ba9b0633_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53536172572/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1167"><img alt="IMG_1167" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53536172572_da67a68005_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>最後回到御屋敷の庭,進到庭院內要先穿過活水軒,屋內有提供餐點,能在山水美景前享用播州名物。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537373194/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1169"><img alt="IMG_1169" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537373194_0eb5ff0a16_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537476285/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1173"><img alt="IMG_1173" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537476285_12b2a2f215_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53536172532/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1174"><img alt="IMG_1174" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53536172532_cf916eaa1f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>不想用餐的話,也能從左邊繞過,但我們已經飢腸轆轆,二話不說,長驅直入。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537051866/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1177"><img alt="IMG_1177" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537051866_fed1512b97_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>一踏路就驚豔連連,窗明几淨,光線透入,景色映在一長排大面積的窗上。只可惜靠窗的桌子都是二人座,容不下我們三個人。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537373109/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1179"><img alt="IMG_1179" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537373109_3114cc5cd1_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537058396/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_20200224_114335"><img alt="IMG_20200224_114335" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537058396_63313c37a7_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>點了內有播州名物素麵及穴子魚的套餐ざる夢そば・穴子天ぷら,第一次嚐到星鰻白身肉,柔嫩的口感,風味雅致。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537243003/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_20200224_112222"><img alt="IMG_20200224_112222" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537243003_e750d1d618_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537051836/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1182"><img alt="IMG_1182" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537051836_4262062894_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537236663/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1184"><img alt="IMG_1184" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537236663_bc77fee998_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>御屋敷の庭內的兩棟建築之間,以稱為渡り廊下的遊廊相連,是好古園內最具代表性的建物。走廊採用唐傘割工法,中央地板曲拱而起,讓視野自然地捕捉住左右兩側的風景,行走於上時,腳步會讓木板發出像似太鼓的聲響。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537051776/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1185"><img alt="IMG_1185" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537051776_4dfdae93d3_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537373039/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1187_1"><img alt="IMG_1187_1" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537373039_03cc4b5ec3_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537476060/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1188"><img alt="IMG_1188" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537476060_d9caf5e2f7_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /></div><div><br /></div>山澗流水潺潺的造景,走在遊廊上別是一番風情。<br />
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537373024/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1192"><img alt="IMG_1192" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537373024_45e281aa50_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53536172392/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1195"><img alt="IMG_1195" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53536172392_a5759c61d3_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>遊廊另一端是潮音斎,據說是朝向中秋賞月最佳的方向所建。觀庭台稍稍停留,望著借景茂密樹林,搭配深山幽谷的飛瀑,假想古時姬山原始森林的樣貌。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537373014/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1194"><img alt="IMG_1194" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537373014_769da5e245_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537476025/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1196"><img alt="IMG_1196" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537476025_997185c914_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537236568/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1199"><img alt="IMG_1199" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537236568_d925781102_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537236543/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1200"><img alt="IMG_1200" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537236543_05c609a950_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>池中飼養許多錦鯉,讓以瀨戶內海為意象的大池,多添繽紛色彩。只是錦鯉總是在我要拍照時,躲出鏡頭外,平時路過入鏡或賴著不走的路人一堆,現在反倒拍不太到錦鯉,真不知是好或不好。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537236528/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1201"><img alt="IMG_1201" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537236528_eb84f88ba6_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537236508/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1202"><img alt="IMG_1202" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537236508_f5df306bed_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537236548/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1203"><img alt="IMG_1203" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537236548_679b241bc7_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537475940/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1204"><img alt="IMG_1204" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537475940_21e7f9f940_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div>入秋後的紅葉也是好古園的一大看點,下次有機會再來吧。該離開姬路了,回到JR姫路駅,來搭新幹線前去岡山。<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53536173277/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1218"><img alt="IMG_1218" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53536173277_5b6b46957c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537373969/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1219_1"><img alt="IMG_1219_1" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537373969_0c16fe7b71_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53536173272/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1220"><img alt="IMG_1220" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53536173272_b194c30153_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>JR姫路駅是在明治21年(1888年)開業,前身是山陽鐵道的車站,與山陽姫路駅的山陽電氣鐵道名字很像,但大不相同。JR姫路駅有JR神戶線、山陽本線、播但線、姬新線,四條在來線經過,3面8線。我們要乘坐新幹線,就簡單多了,就只有一條山陽新幹線,2面3線。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537052731/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1222"><img alt="IMG_1222" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537052731_3b0f6b7cd8_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537476905/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1223"><img alt="IMG_1223" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537476905_a794a87680_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>不一會,再熟悉不過的N700系新幹線進站,半小時後岡山見。</div><div><br /></div><div>2020.02</div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2023/10/day-1.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #ffe599;" target="_blank">日本山陽行 + 貓島第三彈 Day 1:神戶動物王國.北野坂異人館街.神戸クアハウス溫泉膠囊旅館</a></div><div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2023/12/day-2.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #ffe599;" target="_blank">日本山陽行 + 貓島第三彈 Day 2:生田神社.神戶港塔.神戶牛.有馬溫泉</a></div><div><span style="background-color: #ffe599;"><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2024/01/day-3-1.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">日本山陽行 + 貓島第三彈 Day 3-1:姬路城 日遊&夜遊</a></span></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2024/02/day-3-2.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #ffe599;" target="_blank">日本山陽行 + 貓島第三彈 Day 3-2:明石城.明石雞蛋燒.舞子公園.明石海峽大橋</a></div></div>
Laxichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04802970745091107114noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37782309.post-31301231224153804772024-02-17T02:02:00.007+08:002024-02-25T02:09:50.111+08:00日本山陽行 + 貓島第三彈 Day 3-2:明石城.明石雞蛋燒.舞子公園.明石海峽大橋逛完姬路城的午後,搭上山陽電鐵的列車,前往明石,繼續走訪下一座百名城 - 明石城。<div>建造這座城的大名,知名度不高,別說大河劇了,一般戲劇或小說都鮮少出現。雖然身世不怎麼華麗,但是不僅是位與幕府關係匪淺的譜代大名,血統更是輝煌。他的武將之路一路從松本城,移封到明石城,再到小倉城,既然我們之前走訪過了<a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2019/06/day-1-2.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">松本城</a>與<a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2018/10/day-2-2.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">小倉城</a>,明石城當然也要來趟巡禮。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372433530/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372433530_eda66dd38a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><span><a name='more'></a><br />從山陽姫路出發,30多分鐘的車程來到山陽明石駅,這是山陽電鐵所有車站中,最多上下車乘客人次的一站,擁有2座島式月台,2面4線。北側與JR明石駅相鄰,自此往東到塩屋為止,兩線貼得很近,所以乘客會在這裡換成JR電車,這也可能是山陽明石駅上下客人數多的原因之一。<br /></span>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372433525/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372433525_140b11c57b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372165613/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372165613_9db51816a5_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371982526/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371982526_248340a0bb_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>出站後,看到地上的人孔蓋是明石市立天文科學館的圖樣,高塔是天文科學館的展望台,天文科學館離車站有距離,沒有列入行程中。來明石的行程只有兩個,明石雞蛋燒與明石城,一個在車站北邊,一個在南邊,那就先往南去吃午餐吧。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371982381/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371982381_226f33692e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>穿過熱鬧的魚之棚商店街,上頭掛著各家漁船的大漁旗,原本祈求漁船出港返航平安、漁貨滿載而歸的象徵物,在頭頂一張張展開,既鮮豔又氣派。</div><div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371982376/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371982376_6674d9529d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371071702/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371071702_b195033598_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /></div></div><div><br /></div><div>商店街的人孔蓋都是以漁或為主題,也慶祝前一年2019年是明石市制施行100週年。看到明石鯛魚的圖案,就好想吃在地的鯛魚生魚片,但要忍耐,我們的目標是雞蛋燒!</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372294634/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372294634_f37bf68265_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>離車站約400公尺的距離,位在明石銀座通り與本町通り路口的<a href="https://honke-kimuraya.com/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">正宗木村屋(本家きむらや)</a>就是我們的目的地了。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372165598/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372165598_0aa1901e10_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371982506/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371982506_e7fdc638e6_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371071542/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371071542_2368473f9e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>下午2點,排隊人龍不長,但也等了將近1小時,陸續有人進店用餐,隊伍尾端就陸續有新的人補上,這店好像有什麼魔力般,把人一直吸引過來。好在店家有提供椅子坐,只是氣溫低,不動就好冷,只想趕快進到屋內。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371072052/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="IMG_20200223_143011"><img alt="IMG_20200223_143011" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371072052_2c4d0300c6_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372434030/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="IMG_20200223_144738"><img alt="IMG_20200223_144738" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372434030_a354b679c0_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>店家招牌上聚集不少麻雀與鴿子,煎台就在竹簾後方,失敗的雞蛋燒或邊角料就會丟出來給他們享用。看著麻雀與鴿子飛上飛下,小跳躍地大快朵頤,突然發現它們很幸福,比我們還早吃到~</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372165588/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372165588_214366914b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372294774/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372294774_137e1dabc5_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371071512/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371071512_2450a6d925_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>終於進到暖暖的店內,看著牆上的簽名板,等著餐點上桌。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371071642/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371071642_3c8c32dab2_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372165583/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372165583_8790f261b9_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372433470/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372433470_602178008e_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>一人一份關東煮,很想嘗嘗章魚腳的滋味,一直以來只有在漫畫中看到,終於有實物出現眼前。店家非常自豪的在官網上說,關東煮的章魚柔軟可口,沒有經任何特殊處理,對於那些認為水煮章魚又硬又難吃的人,請務必來品嚐明石的新鮮章魚。哦,對了,蒟蒻也是,因為這是我平時關東煮不會點的品項。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372165568/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372165568_5bd7e3d85d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>明石雞蛋燒一份有20粒,份量不少,我們三人點了兩份,吃完肚子實在有夠撐。雖然名為明石雞蛋燒,裡面也是有塊紮紮實實的章魚,與上面刷上醬油、擠上美乃滋的章魚燒相比,最大不同處在於,明石雞蛋燒是稍微泡入隨餐附上的海帶湯,再送入口中享用。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372433395/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372433395_c956b2dd24_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372294629/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372294629_ec90f96c5a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div>回到車站前,來去明石公園尋找明石城的百名城戳章。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371072602/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371072602_92c10c9c04_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>明石城今日以整備成<a href="https://hyogo-akashipark.jp/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">明石公園</a>,靠近明石駅的南側入口處,矗立著一尊中部幾次郎的銅像。</div><div><br /></div><div>中部幾次郎出生於明石的林村(現今的林崎町),家中是以鮮魚的運輸與批發為生,自小幫忙家中事業,之後創立大洋漁業,以林崎漁港為母港,高價收購、低價售出漁獲的方式,也就是買得比別人高、賣得比別人低,獲得漁夫與商家的信賴。隨之發展遠洋漁業,在下關設立林兼商店,範圍擴展到到朝鮮半島,成為遠洋漁業之父,功績顯赫,為明石的漁業做出了貢獻。除了漁業之外,企業更涉及水產加工、海運、造船,之後合併了日魯漁業,成為現在的マルハニチロ(Maruha Nichiro)集團。</div><div><br /></div><div>這尊銅像於中部幾次郎還在世的時候就建立,當時是昭和3年(1928年),到了二戰時,受到金屬回收令徵收,戰後不久後死去,銅像於昭和26年(1951年)重建。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372434410/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372434410_0a4fbb0fd3_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372166563/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372166563_f53b21ea36_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>比起上午走訪的姬路城,明石城又更加的年輕,是江戶時期的元和4年(1618年)才開始築城。那時,池田輝政奉德川家康之令,完成了姬路城規模擴大的整修,成為牽制西國諸大名的據點。德川家康卸下幕府將軍後,德川秀忠繼任二代將軍後,下令在明石建造新城郭,以作為對西國諸大名應對準備,以及海上交通監視的要所。</div><div><br /></div><div>接下這個重責大任的是,有著繼承最強血統之稱,且被德川家康譽為鬼孫的小笠原忠真。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372295744/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372295744_1941153724_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>往回追溯小笠原氏的血統,可以一直推回平安時代後期的武將 - 源義光,也是甲斐源氏之祖。</div><div><br /></div><div>源義光為了河內源氏一族首領的位置,暗中操弄引發源義忠暗殺事件與源義綱冤罪事件,但真相被揭發,逃往常陸國。源義光死去後,後裔定居在甲斐國中巨摩郡小笠原村,從此自稱小笠原氏。鐮倉時代先後追隨源賴朝、足利尊氏,成為信濃守護。室町時代,小笠原氏建造了自己的居館 - 林城,但小笠原長時敗於武田信玄,林城遭到武田氏拆毀,之後依靠上杉謙信,甚至侍奉德川家康,。</div><div><br /></div><div>林城如今已經消失在山林中,說了也沒什麼人知道,但為了林城而建造的眾多支城之中,其中 一座深志城則留傳延續到現代,說了大部分的人都聽過,也就是現存12天守,又是國寶5城之一的松本城。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372166543/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372166543_5004b8ec1c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371072567/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371072567_3f1e64cc78_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371072557/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371072557_94fc77a4e0_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>走上跨過中堀的太鼓門橋,穿過太鼓門的枡形虎口,明石城的百名城戳章就放在右手邊的明石公園サービスセンター。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372434385/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372434385_07e7af4399_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372434335/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372434335_16c21b1fb5_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371072497/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371072497_8cc8b5ab70_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>戳章的圖案,便是明石城知名景象,本丸南面的坤櫓與巽櫓。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372166503/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372166503_b61456c26a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371072492/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371072492_0f79080dd4_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372433940/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372433940_508896d687_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>眼前就是本丸南面的土塀,東西兩角分別是坤櫓與巽櫓。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371072487/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371072487_0903e93d40_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371982946/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371982946_018ef1dab9_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372166083/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372166083_720547994f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372295199/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372295199_266a529975_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>小笠原長時的孫子 - 小笠原秀政,信濃國松本藩初代藩主,娶了登久姫為正室,生了二男 - 小笠原忠真。登久姫是松平信康與德姬的長女,再往前推,松平信康又是德川家康的長子,德姬是織田信長的長女,所以小笠原忠真是德川家康與織田信長的曾孫。</div><div><br /></div><div>大坂冬之陣,哥哥小笠原忠脩出陣,隔年的大坂夏之陣,由父親小笠原秀政出陣,小笠原忠脩與小笠原忠真負責守備松本城,然而兄弟倆未經幕府許可,奔赴前線,在德川家康的認許其勇氣下,免除了嚴厲懲罰。然而,若江之戰時,小笠原秀政卻遲到了,受道德川家康斥責,深感羞愧。</div><div><br /></div><div>在最後決戰的天王寺・岡山之戰,小笠原父子深知這是他們最後發光的舞台,作為本多忠朝的支援戰力,佈署在第二陣,正面迎戰茶臼山的真田信繁、明石全登・毛利勝永。只是本多隊被擊破,小笠原秀政見本多隊潰散,前去救援,卻遭到敵軍的猛烈攻擊,陣型大亂。混戰中,小笠原忠脩戰死,小笠原秀政重傷,小笠原忠真也多處受傷,如鬼神般奮戰,鎧甲沾滿鮮血,帶著父親脫離戰場。</div><div><br /></div><div>次日,小笠原忠真前往京都,將重傷不久死去的父親及哥哥火化,骨灰送回松本。德川家康與德川秀忠派出使者探望重傷的小笠原忠真,慰問中讚譽著:「奮戦見事。まさに我が鬼孫ぞ」。</div>
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<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372295194/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372295194_9ed258164b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371071992/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371071992_33e7e3984f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371982911/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371982911_36862522a9_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>坊間流傳一則故事,混戰中,小笠原忠脩戰死,小笠原秀政移轉到大後方。不久後,真田信繁殺入德川軍本陣,德川家康倉皇逃跑。混亂中,德川家康的轎子遭敵方長槍插入,德川家康命絕,屍體被運至堺,秘密埋葬在南宗寺。不過,真正的德川家康仍活著,而死去的則是小笠原秀政假裝的影武者。這故事是否為真,暫不可考,也許就這樣保持懸疑與神秘也不錯。</div><div><br /></div><div>從應仁之亂算起,將近150年的戰亂,隨著大坂之役結束畫下句點,改國號為元和。雖然天下平定,豐臣氏滅亡,但西國大名仍具威脅,<a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2024/01/day-3-1.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">姬路城的池田光政</a>因年紀太輕,難以擔當壓制西國大名的要角,便移封鳥取,將西國領地賞給譜代大名本多忠政,從伊勢國桑名轉封姬路,成為姬路城主。小笠原忠真繼任家督後,元和3年(1617年)從8萬石增加到10萬石,轉封播磨明石。小笠原忠真移入位在明石川河口的右岸的船上城,立明石藩。</div><div><br /></div><div>當時的明石位於交通要衝,東西向有西國街道,北往丹波與但馬,南為淡路島,是個戰略要地。由於船上城地勢較低,西面是廣大的台地,不利防禦西面的進攻,於是元和4年(1618年)德川秀忠下令,興建明石城。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372295174/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372295174_8c467a2972_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372166018/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372166018_74d379893e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372433850/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372433850_2095310f8f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>接到築城命令後,小笠原忠真找上義父本多忠刻討論城町與繩張配置的計畫,選出三個築城地點:塩屋町(現今神戶市垂水區塩屋町)、和坂、人丸山。最終因為人丸山旁有座鴻の池(現今的剛の池),利於防禦,選定現址,並獲得德川秀忠給予的銀一千貫目築城費,相當於現今31億円。</div><div><br /></div><div>德川秀忠也派出奉行人來到明石,負責本丸、二之丸、三之丸的石垣與土居與塀的普請,其他區域的櫓、門、塀、房屋建物的普請,則由小笠原忠真負責。元和5年(1619年)正月開始動工,隔年小笠原忠真遷出船上城,移入明石城,著手城內的建物工事,元和6年(1620年)竣工,船上城廢城。</div><div><br /></div><div>明石城建材有部分是利用附近三木城、高砂城、枝吉城、船上城的石材興建。小倉藩的細川忠興甚至將豐前國(現今的大分)中津城的天守贈與給小笠原忠真,只是最終明石城僅堆起基石,沒有建起天守。預計建造天守的位置在坤櫓北側,按其面積推算,會是一座五層天守的規模,如今僅是一片空地,連基石的痕跡都沒有,只剩一株掉光綠葉、卻枝枒繁茂的大樹孤矗角落。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372433840/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372433840_0f10422df1_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372165953/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372165953_315c617fcc_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372295014/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372295014_4150ee00f9_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><div>話說,眾人耳熟能詳的江戶時代劍豪 - 宮本武藏,一般認知是出生於播磨(現今的兵庫縣高砂市米田町,也有記載是岡山縣東部的美作國宮本村),強到誇張的二刀流劍術,不屬於任何藩屬,走遍全國各地,但與本多忠刻的關係匪淺,由於本多忠刻喜好劍術,在宮本武藏於巖流島決鬥結束之後,以俸祿700石拜其為師,學習劍術。</div><div><br /></div><div>因為這個緣故,在城下町規劃時期,收到小笠原忠真的邀請,來到明石作客。從天守台往下望的陸上競技場(雖然被樹擋去了大半),過去是宮本武藏設計的樹木屋敷,是藩主散步及招待賓客的場所。西芝生廣場與東芝生廣場之間,也是宮本武藏設計的庭園,現在名為武蔵の庭園。</div><div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371982826/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371982826_55e4f726e6_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div></div><div><div>明石城是座平山城,最大的特色就是看似平城,實際擁有許多山城的要素。繩張配置順著台地由西向東,先是東之丸,再來二之丸,高地邊緣設置了本丸,以大量的石垣鞏固。本丸的西側設了一個稻荷神社的稻荷郭,南側為三之丸,山麓平原處為藩主及武家屋敷,北側則有鴻の池的天然屏障。</div></div><div><br /></div><div>除此之外,明石城裡裡外外挖了內堀、中堀、外堀三道深堀。本丸下方的草坪及明石棒球場,以前是居屋敷,有內堀圍繞。剛剛踏進公園的太鼓門橋,有著繞著城郭的中堀。外堀位於太鼓門南方約300m處,在國道2號線南方。如今內堀與外堀都已填平,看不出痕跡。</div><div><br /></div><div>同一時期也建造了尼崎城(兵庫縣尼崎市)及淀城(京都市),並對高槻城(大阪高槻市)進行大規模整修,這一切就是為了構築一道防衛線,保護德川家在西部的根據地 - 大阪城。</div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371071957/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371071957_48a2c9ab32_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372165833/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372165833_78744d48be_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372433750/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372433750_0ae13d907d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>沿著本丸南面的土塀走著,原本本丸的四個角落都有設置櫓,皆為三重櫓,北面的乾櫓與艮櫓已經消失,僅剩巽櫓與坤櫓,<a href="https://tabi-mag.jp/sanjuyagura/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">日本僅存的12座三重櫓</a>,明石城就擁有2座,皆是國家重要文化財。(目前擁有最多三重櫓的是弘前城,皆在二之丸的丑寅櫓、辰巳櫓、未申櫓。)</div><div><br /></div><div><div>因為一國一城令的頒布,船上城必須廢城,於是將船上城的三重櫓移築至明石城的本丸,作為東南一角的巽櫓,寬永年間曾燒毀重建,阪神大地震後也重新整修過。</div></div><div><br /></div><div>西側的坤櫓規模最大,是用伏見城的遺構所建成,雖然不如五層天守的規模,也算是較小的天守,另一方面也是為了向西方大名展現威勢,實質上也起到了天守的作用。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371982721/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371982721_882d19f272_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371071832/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371071832_81b05d9df5_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372165818/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372165818_442e862dd1_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>前面提到的宮本武藏,除了指導本多忠刻劍術外,也與水野勝成有深交,也就是之後的備後福山藩初代藩主。宮本武藏在元和初年(1615年)收了水野家家臣中川志摩助的三男 - 中川三木之助為養子,並推薦三木之助出仕姬路城城主本多忠刻,三木之助後來也為了死於結核病的本多忠刻而殉死。</div><div><br /></div><div>之後,宮本武藏收了播磨地侍田原久光的次男 - 田原伊織為養子,後來出仕明石城城主小笠原忠真,年僅20歲時便成為小笠原家的家老。</div><div><div><div><div><br /></div><div>小笠原忠真於寬永9年(1632年)移封小倉城,長年下落不明的宮本武藏也跟著去到北九州。據傳,宮本武藏也在後來的島原之亂參陣。</div></div></div></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372433740/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372433740_d149143aa6_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371982811/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371982811_ecc92bdfd9_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371982791/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371982791_1d1e69cf52_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372165938/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372165938_ce5a973e93_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>東之丸的土塀上,視線能越過明石駅,從水泥大樓間遠望明石海峽與對面的淡路島,往東也看到了明石大橋,也是下一個目的地。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372295069/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372295069_6d3b814d16_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div>
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<div>小笠原忠真移封小倉城後,信濃國松本藩的松本康直入封明石。之後,明石藩換了許多大名,歷經一兩代就換任,先是美濃國加納藩的大久保氏、丹波國篠山藩的松平氏、大和國郡山藩的本多氏,直到天和2年(1682年)越前國大野藩的松平直明入封明石之後,才延續到幕末。</div><div><br /></div><div>丹波國篠山藩松平氏的松平忠國,愛好茶道、和歌、俳句、文學,列選了城內10景,也將明石城附上喜春城的雅稱。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371071912/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371071912_1ae7c55902_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>穿過東之丸的枡形虎口,跨過藥研堀與箱堀之間的土橋,把我們帶回現代,出口便是明石市立文化博物館,再順著樓梯向下,回到明石駅。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371071902/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371071902_55a46eb562_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372295044/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372295044_7fa90fdd18_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>進入明治時代的明石城,在廢城令頒布,播磨的存城為姬路城,明石城列入廢城名單。然而,主張保留的舊藩士,出資買下了城內大部分的建物,與計畫拆除的兵庫縣產生對立。最終,本丸的四座櫓被保留下來。</div><div><br /></div><div>明治14年(1881年)為了新建小學,只好拆了東北角的艮櫓作為建築材料。明治16年(1883年),明石郡內的有志之士,將明石城規劃為民營公園,整備後對外開放。但是,明治31年(1898年)皇室出手了,明石城被編入御料地,也就天皇的資產,歸宮內省管理,民營公園廢止。後來,拆了西北角的乾櫓,將其木材用來整修巽櫓與坤櫓。</div><div><br /></div><div>到了大正7年(1918年),兵庫縣向宮內省租借御料地,成立縣立公園,昭和初期買下明石城全區域,作為明石公園,並對外開放。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371071882/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371071882_60183a6f09_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372433770/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="IMG_0807_stitch"><img alt="IMG_0807_stitch" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372433770_af685fc5b9_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372433760/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372433760_004c0fbb4a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><div>雖然明石城沒有戰亂洗禮,在歷經明治廢城後的紛紛擾繞,也在平城31年(2019年)迎來築城400週年。除了是百名城之外,也是日本歷史公園百選之一,更是櫻花百選之地之一,耳聞這裡的櫻花綻開很厲害,春暖花開時肯定要再來一趟。</div></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372165928/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372165928_7e0ed389cc_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372166483/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372166483_a884de4ed1_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>搭著山陽電鐵,不到10分鐘的車程,來到舞子公園駅。舞子公園駅是座站房橫跨在鐵道上的跨站式車站,擁有兩座岸式月台,2面2線,副站名是明石海峽大橋前。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371072482/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="IMG_0821_stitch"><img alt="IMG_0821_stitch" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371072482_e116a81d5a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371072447/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371072447_2c12a3b569_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>山陽電鐵的舞子公園駅在JR西日本神戶線舞子駅的北側,兩座車站之間夾著ティオ舞子住商混和的大樓,彼此間都有天橋平台相互連結,平台上就有不少明石海峽大橋的基本介紹。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372166438/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372166438_751d687ae9_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>舞子地名由來眾說紛紜,其中最常聽到的有兩種。一是舞子明石海峽上與對岸淡路島距離最短的地點,從「廻い込浜」形容海潮撞擊飛舞的模樣,漸漸轉變為舞子的まいこ。</div><div><br /></div><div>另一個說法是古時此地有很多松樹,繁茂的枝葉就像女字跳舞的姿態。白沙青松的風光,加上晀望海峽與淡路島的絕景,自古這裡就是「舞子の浜」的名勝地,有栖川宮熾仁親王也曾再次設有別邸。只是後來各種工程建設,沙灘退縮,最後消失,而一度快要消失的松林,經過保育後,劃入舞子公園內存留。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372434280/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372434280_6e25121ed5_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372166178/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372166178_91908e304f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>偌大的橋台、壯闊的橋塔,一條3.9公里長的鋼骨巨龍,直插海峽對岸,那股震撼又再次浮現。10多年前碩二剛回收完論文問卷,就邀約同學跟著旅行團來了趟京阪神+奈良+名古屋的賞櫻之旅,其中就有來到明石海峽大橋,這麼多年過去,景物依舊不變。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371072127/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371072127_2718e45fa6_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371072432/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371072432_74c0a8c60c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371072427/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371072427_3f3996cc7b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>依舊沒有進去參觀明石大橋科學館,主要是沒有時間,都快閉館了,若還有第三次,一定會進去參觀。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371072387/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371072387_ec7b141473_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>館外展示實際尺寸的大橋鋼纜斷面模型也依然在,同樣的角度也再拍一次。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371983226/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371983226_3ac99cbfca_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372295594/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372295594_e83218eb2a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372166403/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372166403_0a4a88922e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372295569/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372295569_6128021f20_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>我們來訪時,明石海峽大橋仍是世界上跨距第一長的吊橋,跨距1991m。寫這篇文章時,世界第一已經由土耳其的1915恰納卡萊大橋(1915 Çanakkale Bridge)取代,跨距2023m,跨越達達尼爾海峽,其1915是紀念第一次世界大戰期間,鄂圖曼帝國海軍在1915年對英法海軍的一場重要勝利。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372295589/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372295589_4ffa103a8f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371072352/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371072352_33defb1183_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>明石這端的橋台之中,設有<a href="https://hyogo-maikopark.jp/facility/f01/#ad-image-2" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">舞子海上海濱大道(舞子海上プロムナード)</a>,除了有觀景台外,還有不定期夜宿觀景台的活動。令我覺得最酷的活動是<a href="https://www.jb-honshi.co.jp/bridgeworld/index.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">明石海峡大橋ブリッジワールド</a>,可以實際走在橋樑下的通道,距離海面50m的高度進行空中散步,然後再搭電梯到98層樓高的塔頂,海上約300m,欣賞一般人看不到的絕景。只可惜這活動也是期間限定,冬天沒有開放申請,此次無緣。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371983201/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371983201_23fd50c4bc_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>往西望去,剛才明石駅前方34層樓的プラウドタワー明石,以及明石市立天文科學館的塔時計,都清晰可見。忽然有跑者擦身而過,能在這樣的景色下跑步還真不錯,還有海風吹拂,今天姬路馬沒得跑,有點惋惜。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372295299/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372295299_2167b9d6d3_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371983001/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371983001_fba92a774f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372295549/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372295549_e1fb85abf1_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>一側的舞子公園,濱海處一棟中國式八角樓閣的建築,是日本現存最古老的水泥磚造建築,名為移情閣,也是<a href="https://www.sonbunkinenkan.com/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">孫文紀念館</a>。之所以有移情閣的別稱,是因為八角樓的設計,每一扇窗的景色都不相同,六甲山地、瀨戶內海、淡路島、四國,隨著在屋內移動而變換的風情,與孫文在日本多情的性格無關就是了~</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372295534/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372295534_c67e139526_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>這棟建築是由活躍在神戶的中國貿易商 - 吳錦堂於大正4年(1915年)所建,吳錦堂是唯一一位後來成為日本財閥的旅日華商。那時候的中國,已經成立中華民國臨時政府,國家政權被袁世凱等北洋軍閥掌握,而孫文正忙著鼓吹改行君主政體,為了討袁而奔走。而孫文與日本的關係,可謂複雜且微妙,不論政治、軍事,亦或是感情。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371072342/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371072342_453d772b5f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>八角樓閣蓋在吳錦堂的松海別莊旁側,而松海別莊是大正2年(1913年)孫文一行人來訪神戶時,舉行歡迎宴會的場地。這兩棟建築為了配合明石海峽大橋的工程,於平成6年(1994年)往西南方移了200m,來到現在的位置。</div><div><br /></div><div>時間也不足夠我們逛逛孫文紀念館,僅能外圍觀看,緬懷這位創建中華民國的國父,當然還有創見中國國民黨。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372295499/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372295499_a969ab1de6_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>明天的行程就要移動到對面的四國了,本州與四國間的三條聯絡道路,最東邊是明石海峽大橋加大鳴門橋的神戶淡路鳴門自動車道,再來是眾多跨海大橋總稱瀨戶大橋的瀨戶中央自動車道,最西邊也是眾多橋樑總稱的來島海峽大橋的西瀨戶自動車道。其中只有瀨戶大橋設有鐵道路線,明石海峽大橋則沒有預留鐵道空間,所以明天還可以先去岡山逛逛。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372166338/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372166338_4607389cc1_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371072082/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371072082_1f49238dae_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div>
<div>斜陽把淡藍色的橋身刷上一層澄黃,是時候該回姬路了。<br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372434160/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372434160_b9fb65e7a7_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372295304/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372295304_3c0810e41b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372295559/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372295559_047d38886f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div></div>
<div>最後的最後,再一次在明石海峽大橋的石碑拍張留念照,看看下一次多少年後才會再來。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372434170/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372434170_b1ddc80930_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371496342/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="2020221-228 激怒馬_200325_0019"><img alt="2020221-228 激怒馬_200325_0019" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371496342_354a76ca13_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371496327/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="2020221-228 激怒馬_200325_0095"><img alt="2020221-228 激怒馬_200325_0095" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371496327_c42a3f6eb3_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>回程再次選擇山陽電鐵,把<a href="https://www.surutto.com/tickets/kansai_thru_hantaiji.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">關西周遊卡2日券</a>用好用滿,</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371983151/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371983151_b65f773b16_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372166158/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="IMG_0886_stitch"><img alt="IMG_0886_stitch" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372166158_0dbda44f55_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>往神戶方向的列車,是山陽電鐵的6000系電車,此系電車是平成28年(2016年)才開始服役,還挺新的。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372434130/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372434130_c5942e6f28_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371072077/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371072077_262915dec8_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>停靠我們這側月台的列車,是阪神電鐵的8000系電車,首輛是昭和59年(1984年)服役,眼前這輛是平成6年(1994年)服役,也不年輕了。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372295464/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372295464_527b9800d0_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>進到溫暖的車廂內,馬上就被帶入夢鄉,好在這條山陽電鐵本線的終點站就是山陽姬路駅,沒有睡過站的風險。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372434115/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372434115_bc326142f7_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>踏出電車門,冰冷的空氣直撲而來,猶如昨晚初來到姬路的景象又重來了一次,可惜姬路馬的結局不會變,心心念念的鯱型完賽獎牌也一場空,希望未來有緣再續囉。</div><div><br /></div><div>2020.02</div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2023/10/day-1.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #ffe599;" target="_blank">日本山陽行 + 貓島第三彈 Day 1:神戶動物王國.北野坂異人館街.神戸クアハウス溫泉膠囊旅館</a><br /><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2023/12/day-2.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #ffe599;" target="_blank">日本山陽行 + 貓島第三彈 Day 2:生田神社.神戶港塔.神戶牛.有馬溫泉</a></div><div><span style="background-color: #ffe599;"><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2024/01/day-3-1.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">日本山陽行 + 貓島第三彈 Day 3-1:姬路城 日遊&夜遊</a></span></div></div><div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2024/02/day-3-2.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #ffe599;" target="_blank">日本山陽行 + 貓島第三彈 Day 3-2:明石城.明石雞蛋燒.舞子公園.明石海峽大橋</a></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2024/02/day-4-1.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #ffe599;" target="_blank">日本山陽行 + 貓島第三彈 Day 4-1:姬路城好古園.活水軒穴子魚套餐</a></div></div><p></p></div></div>Laxichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04802970745091107114noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37782309.post-13279076062675392532024-01-14T00:45:00.011+08:002024-02-25T02:09:53.211+08:00日本山陽行 + 貓島第三彈 Day 3-1:姬路城 日遊&夜遊
<div><div><div><div>如果沒有新冠肺炎的話,今天是舉辦世界遺產姬路城馬拉松的日子。在日本跑馬有個好處,就是天氣太冷了,所以上午9點才起跑,可以睡飽一點。殘忍的是,全馬幾乎都是限時6小時,而且中途都有設關門點,時間內跑不到指定的距離,就直接失格,不像台灣大多偏向歡樂性質,讓跑者慢慢撐到最後一刻。</div></div></div></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537048821/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1029"><img alt="IMG_1029" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537048821_d9be78ec46_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /></div><div><span><a name='more'></a></span></div><div><br /></div><div>殘念的是,我們還沒有開跑,就被判失格了,因此多出了好幾小時能夠逛姬路城。前一晚民宿老闆娘還提醒我們,雖然取消了,還是能去姬路城吃吃喝喝。老闆娘指的吃吃喝喝是什麼,難道像一些規模大一點的百名城,廣場會有固定攤販嗎?雖然有點好奇,還是先找來這間<a href="https://www.hamamoto-coffee.com/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">はまもとコーヒー</a>,先墊墊肚子。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372164443/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372164443_df4314255a_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div>雖然大清早商店街還沒什麼人潮,一走進咖啡廳就感受到店內熱鬧烘烘的氣氛,還有撲鼻的咖啡豆香。我們被引領到吧檯區的座位,近距離欣賞(?)吧檯區社長濱本さん與Chief山根さん身手矯捷的沖泡英姿。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372432335/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372432335_a343ed3025_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>本身早餐的份量就吃不太多,簡單點了杯咖啡,配上水煮蛋與吐司的輕食餐點,當然還有那菜單上只要有,就會點的自製布丁。</div><div><br /></div><div>吧檯前一整排的虹吸壺,等待的時間,看著壺中熱水被吸上去,與咖啡粉混合後,再落入壺中,再看著社長從容不迫的身手,倒出一杯杯咖啡。當我伸手要取咖啡來喝時,發現杯子提把是熱的,一杯講究的咖啡,連盛裝的容器也要顧到,溫杯才不會影響咖啡的溫度,才能品嘗到咖啡高溫沖泡出來的風味。一間店家到底講不講究,有很多小細節就能感受到。</div><div><br /></div><div>這也才發現自己也好久沒有遇到會溫杯的店家,大多都是連鎖咖啡店或是便利商店會燙手的紙杯。這件事則是在研究所當辦公室助理時,一位對咖啡很有品味的教授所相授,他偶爾也會泡咖啡給學生品嚐,但也時常叫我搬不知道哪裡弄來的水到他研究室就是了。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372164423/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372164423_d59ac2191b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371981121/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371981121_c70a12df65_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>對了,還有店家推薦來姬路必吃的杏仁吐司。</div><div><br /></div><div>老實說,行前做功課,大多不太會著墨在吃的部分,通常都隨緣,是Celia說了才知道來姬路要嚐嚐杏仁吐司。這道餐點據說是30多年前由附近的Cafe de Mche所發明,之後便廣傳到姬路市內各家咖啡廳。姑且不論是否是姬路咖啡廳特色的餐點,烤過的杏仁片,抹在厚片吐司上的杏仁奶油醬,端上桌香味濃郁,吮指留香。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53375474579/in/dateposted-public/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53375474579_c68c030205_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>離開商店街,來去<a href="https://www.city.himeji.lg.jp/castle/index.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">姬路城</a>。</div><div><br /></div><div>走道大手前通り與國道2號線的路口,可以看到道路兩旁有著石垣的遺跡。過去這路口是中門(中ノ門),往內是中曲輪,往外是外曲輪,中間是名為中堀的護城河,在大正到昭和年間為了修建國道2號線,將中堀填平埋掉了。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372293489/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372293489_58b5111678_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>雖然大會取消路跑活動了,有不少跑者自發性的,按原訂路線跑了起來。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372293484/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372293484_6537fecc97_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372293349/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372293349_2a45ec1c83_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>走幾步路,就又看到「世界遺產姬路城馬拉松2020大會中止」的立牌,望著晴朗的藍天,一絲絲感到遺憾!但也就一絲絲,因為我們現在的角色是觀光客,多出6小時的時間,也挺不錯的!</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371070207/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371070207_1666e95f9d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371070742/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371070742_aac9f6e3f1_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>來到大手前通り與城南線的T字路口,現在看到的護城河是姬路城的內堀。姬路城的天守建在高度只有45.6m的姫山上,西北邊曾是一整片的原始林,稱為姫山樹林,整座城的配置以姫山西北山麓為起點,挖了三道護城河,分別是內堀、中堀、外堀,隔出了內曲輪、中曲輪、外曲輪。</div><div><br /></div><div><div>中曲輪的範圍約是現在的シロトピア記念公園、城內圖書館、姬路東高校、大手前公園、白鷺小學校、千姬小徑,主要是家老與上級武士的宅邸。中曲輪的正門是剛剛經過的中門(中ノ門),與外曲輪為界的中堀,南段填為國道2號線,僅剩下部分,稱為東部中濠、西部中濠、北部中濠。</div><div><br /></div><div>外曲輪是下級武士與市民的住所,對外有五個門,南邊正門是飾摩津門,因為姬路位在播摩國飾摩郡,因通往飾摩津(姬路港)而取名,也稱飾摩門或飾萬門,位置就在山陽姫路駅旁,門外西側武士宅邸被稱為忍町,是忍者的住所。西南邊通往備前國的備前門,也稱備前口門或福中門。東南邊是北條門(北条門),通往城外東南的北條地區。東邊是外京口門,通往京都;東北邊則是竹之門(竹ノ門)。</div><div><br /></div><div>明治維新之後,在陸軍的駐紮及近代化發展之下,中曲輪與外曲輪絕大部分的堀與城郭都破壞了,只剩下部分的遺跡。</div></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371070312/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371070312_e3cc6f67e6_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372293449/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372293449_8909dc1dfe_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><div>姬路城,也稱白鷺城,是一座渦郭式的平山城,也就是以本丸為中心,漩渦狀向外配置曲輪。非常特別的是,姬路城從古至今沒有受到嚴重破壞,雖然曾被明治新政府軍包圍,也曾被美軍兩次姬路大空襲中,燒夷彈擊中大天守與西丸,卻是未爆彈,奇蹟式地躲過,保留下完整的建築,猶如白色的不死鳥。 </div><div><br /></div><div>姬路城還有很好多厲害的稱號,像是日本第一名城、首批世界文化遺產之一、現存12座天守之一、國寶五城之一。話說國寶五城也去了松本城及彥根城,之後就只剩下島根的松江城及愛知的犬山城。</div></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371070282/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371070282_042d913078_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>櫻門橋內就是內曲輪了,接著是作為姬路城大手門的櫻門,而內曲輪內有本丸、二之丸、三之丸、西之丸、出丸(御作事所)、勢隱曲輪。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372164363/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372164363_564477e621_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>其實現在所見的櫻門橋及櫻門,都並非原本的建物。原本的大手口是由三道門組成,櫻門橋直接與櫻門銜接,然後現在的櫻門是桐二之門(桐二の門),接著是桐一之門(桐一の門),並由多重櫓與多聞櫓圍繞,形成二重枡形。大手口與櫻門橋都在明治時期,在陸軍省的管理下拆除。</div><div><br /></div><div>昭和13年(1938年)櫻門以比較省成本的高麗門型態再建,位置與規模都與最初不同。平成19年(2007年),櫻門橋利用發掘時出土的橋台遺構,仿造江戶時代的木橋造型,重新建造完成。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372164373/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372164373_c6770b3cc6_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372293394/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372293394_b87d06f635_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div>
<div>走進櫻門,馬上就是偌大的廣場,也就是昔日的三之丸,以前有著御殿及屋敷組成的本城(御居城)及庭園,只是很少看過御殿完整保留下來的百名城。</div><div><br /></div><div>在廣場前仰望姬路城天守,感覺特別莊嚴,心中不由自主燃起一股崇拜感,古時候百姓對自己的君主大概也是這樣的感覺吧。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372432820/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372432820_205d287572_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372164353/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372164353_f6e280e579_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>廣場周圍都是櫻花樹,春暖花開時,紅粉與白鷺,一定很美。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372164343/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372164343_ebafa0357f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371070262/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371070262_100b62c507_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371981031/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371981031_af11ce6ee7_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>姬路城馬拉松取消後,官方寄了封e-mail通知,報名費是不會退了,大會也有基本固定開銷費用,畢竟疫情爆發太快,讓全世界都措手不及。為了不讓跑者一場空,物資袋可以到會場領取,不便前來者,會另外以郵寄的方式給予。既然我們已經決定成行,就回信告知我們會自行前往領取。</div><div><br /></div><div>來到了入城口,姬路城的售票處在此,旁有姫路城管理事務所分室,百名城的戳章就在裡面,不用購票就能蓋到章。比大阪城及名古屋城佛心多了,這兩座城都要買票後才能蓋到戳章,雖說我們都會入城遊賞,但觀感就是不一樣。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371981016/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371981016_0b7daa77a2_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>售票處旁邊的小空地是民宿老闆娘所說吃吃喝喝的攤位,是原本馬拉松補給站的補給品,現在開放給取用,而且不限跑者,見者有分。</div><div><br /></div><div>於是我們也加入井然有序的排隊行列,領了一杯暖暖的甘酒與一些小點心,也拿出號碼牌交換券,向工作人員詢問哪裡兌換物資袋,因為物資袋內有張大會提供的姬路城門票招待券,只可惜沒有完賽獎牌就是了。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372432245/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372432245_7717423989_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><div>攤位後方有塊「天守の庭」的小空地,裡面擺放著天守的礎石。</div></div><div><br /></div><div>這些礎石從慶長年間(1596年〜1614年)築成後,就支撐著重量將近6000噸的天守,長達350餘年。後來發現,天守向東南方傾斜了44公分,於是昭和9年(1934年)著手進行名為「昭和の大修理」的整修,天守地基改由鋼筋混凝土支撐,以防止地面沉降。不再需要的礎石,就以原本的平面配置,展示於此,</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372432255/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372432255_7af15224dc_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>在工作人員的指引下,離開姬路城,來到對面大手前公園旁的<a href="http://www1.winknet.ne.jp/~egret-himeji/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Egret Himeji</a>。這裡算是一棟姬路市民的社區活動中心,在建築物裡面吹著暖氣,望著姬路城也不錯。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372293329/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372293329_f054fd20a1_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372164258/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372164258_9d43319bca_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>順利領取物資袋,套上附贈的姬路馬短袖跑衣,先來去5樓的屋上展望台拍照。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372164288/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372164288_c4cbe974d4_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372293334/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372293334_471c605bb3_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372432830/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372432830_a43688d9fe_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>因為Egret Himeji正前方就是大手前公園,視野毫無遮蔽,立於姬山上的大小天守一覽無遺,後方有著廣峰山及增位山作屏障,城郭能保留下來,周圍景致又不干涉,不虧是第一名城。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372164838/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372164838_9a793638c9_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372293319/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372293319_23f427a31a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371070777/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371070777_82e454e981_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371070297/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371070297_267db915db_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371070772/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371070772_d8e824cda5_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>跑衣背後的圖案也是姬路城,可惜當下沒有其他人可以幫我們拍照,只能架著手機自拍,沒對到焦。氣溫又太冷,跑衣要是像河口湖馬拉松一樣是長袖的就好了,拍了幾次仍對不到焦,就這樣吧。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372857900/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="2020221-228 激怒馬_200325_0016"><img alt="2020221-228 激怒馬_200325_0016" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372857900_93ce8fdded_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div>
<div>回到入城口,拿出門票招待券,參觀國寶去囉!</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372432795/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372432795_c03df276fb_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>進入付費區的第一道門是菱之門(菱の門)的櫓門,也是從三之丸進入二之丸的主要入口。</div><div><br /></div><div>菱之門取名自木柱上方雕飾的菱紋圖案,以櫸木為材,真壁造結構建造。為了鞏固防禦,採用枡形虎口的設計,出入增加坡面與轉角,削弱攻擊的衝力,門片上加裝金屬配件,上層有躲藏城兵的空間,以及連續的武者窗,窗格塗黑貼附金箔。</div><div><br /></div><div>相傳是從伏見城搬遷過來,但無從可證,無論真否,菱之門都是現今罕見的安土桃山時代的華麗城門。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371981486/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371981486_627d950b0b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372432550/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372432550_7204ffd4b2_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372432755/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372432755_47d4dbd4e9_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>姬路城的名稱由來與她的山名有關,本丸建在姬山,西之丸建在鷺山。兩山之間夾著小山谷,藉著山的高低差,設置許多土塀圍繞的曲輪,通過一道又一道防禦的櫓門,才能進入本丸。</div><div><br /></div><div> 一踏入菱之門內,所見的是一座頗大的方形護城河,也是山谷間的防禦工事之一,原本是一座空堀,據傳最早可以追溯到羽柴秀吉的時代。到了池田輝政修建城池時,也就是姬路藩初代藩主,招集來自播磨、淡路、備前這三國的工人,因此命名為三國堀。現在堀內注滿水,作為消防用水。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371070727/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371070727_f055bb7754_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372164768/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372164768_4a3e2789dd_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><div>三國堀將通往二之丸的本道與間道區隔開來,往左是前往いの門的本道,是進入二之丸的主要道路;右邊是間道,是次要的分歧道路,通往るの門。</div><div><br /></div><div>三國堀是姬路城取景的經典角度之一,官方參觀路線是本道進去,繞完天守,從間道出來,進出的人都會在此匯集。我們在這遇到一家當地人向我們打招呼,詢問我們是否來自台灣,然後用台語說了聲多謝,覺得有些驚喜,也覺得親切暖心。</div></div><div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372432780/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372432780_6d06f23407_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371981466/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371981466_cdbe8d4c3c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /></div><br /></div><div>菱之門的左後方,是通往西之丸的南門,當然今日已經沒有門的痕跡了,只剩下好走的坡面與階梯。菱之門與南門之間,有一塊藏在土塀後方,地勢略高,是一塊武者溜り,是一處隱藏士兵的空間,當你不經意走上坡面,就會遭到士兵從左後方反擊。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371981421/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371981421_b95751baa0_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372293689/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372293689_28e3159fd7_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>本道旁有一座中村大佐顯彰碑,為了紀念為姬路城續命的一位陸軍大佐 - 中村重遠。</div><div><br /></div><div>前面提到姬路城沒有受到戰火摧殘,有很大一部分的原因,是姬路城是少數在進入江戶時代之後才擴建的城,這與城主 - 池田輝政的靠山有很大的關係,這個後面再來說。</div><div><br /></div><div>江戶時代結束後,明治政府頒布廢城令,姬路城雖然很幸運地留存下來,由陸軍省接管,但因為年久失修腐爛,陸軍省沒有經費也不願意修繕,於是淪落拍賣的命運,在明治7年(1874年)僅以23円50錢出售給地方富豪 - 神戶清一郎。富豪標下姬路城的目的,是打算將城內的瓦、釘等建材用在自己宅邸,但由於建材規格太過上等,無法使用,便將姬路城賣回給陸軍省,成為步兵第10連隊的駐地。而陸軍省也只能繼續放著爛,爛到不行的就拆。</div><div><br /></div><div>高知藩出身的中村重遠,在明治11年(1878年)向陸軍大臣 - 山縣有朋進言,認為這些城池是先人留給後世的文物,請求保存名古屋城與姬路城,最終獲得陸軍出資修建,姬路城得以暫時延續。名古屋城就沒那麼好運了,修復後在二戰空襲中被燒毀。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372293684/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372293684_817e522a40_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div>穿過いの門及ろの門,二之丸寬廣的空間愈縮愈小,夾在一道又一道防禦的櫓與土塀之間,有如迷宮般,只能跟著前面的人繼續往前走。<br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372432735/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372432735_eb2ccbc1c7_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372293869/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372293869_bb8a7559d9_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372293854/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372293854_3f5d299589_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>順著路線轉著轉著,轉個三兩下就無法判斷自己的方位。一個180度的大迴轉,迎來到一道將軍坂。這段路常在時代劇中出現,將其當作<a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2017/06/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">江戶城</a>取景,因而有將軍坂之稱。</div><div><br /></div><div>坂前一株櫻花樹,可惜季節不對,紅粉白城的景象,有緣在見。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372432705/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372432705_aefc063966_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371070502/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371070502_c15a37605c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372293819/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372293819_b15ccfe61a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>將軍坂上頭是はの門,門下放了一個石燈籠基礎的解說牌,原本不太了解原因,後來才了解,原來內曲輪的石垣就用掉超過10萬噸的石材。石材不僅從附近山脈開鑿而來,更大肆收集五輪塔、古墳石棺、墓碑、石臼、石燈籠基座等等,一種回收再利用的概念,有點匪夷所思。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372164733/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372164733_82b12e40a4_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371981251/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371981251_9b310a3d40_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>はの門之後又是一塊曲輪,上方是にの門的門櫓,唐破風上的鬼瓦有個特別之處,那就是十字紋鬼瓦。十字紋就聯想到基督教,有一說是羽柴秀吉時代,在黑田孝高,也就是軍師黑田官兵衛,在他當任城代時候的傑作,但當時黑田孝高還沒有受洗成為基督徒。</div><div><br /></div><div>另一說是池田輝政時代的產物,但與基督教無關,甚至有了池田輝政是基督徒的說法,但是都無從考證。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372432660/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372432660_080697849b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371981371/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371981371_75ec1cf7d4_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372432665/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372432665_2ece89abda_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>天守就在眼前,距離就是沒有拉近的感覺,還有一道又一道的土塀,上面挖滿三角形的砲眼與四方形的弓眼,要是我是古代兵卒,踏入本丸之前,早就不知道陣亡幾百次了。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372293809/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372293809_2a55f6d70a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372293794/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372293794_1e6b1bbeb2_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372432615/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372432615_f11b94b721_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>從はの門到にの門,有是一道180度的大迴轉,這就好像登山的之字坡,爬啊爬的,看的見山頭就表示不遠了。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372293774/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372293774_170c203bb3_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div>にの門是一個常見的二階門形式,但在底下轉了90度,然後因地勢而出口天花板變矮,不小心還會撞到頭,這無非也是要削減攻擊軍的衝撞力度。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372164673/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372164673_5ab947265f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372432515/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372432515_49c948f8f9_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>鑽出來就是乾曲輪了,離天守只剩一步之遙,才怪。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371981221/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371981221_689b56aeee_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>接著是狹窄的ほの門,是一道在土塀上挖出來的埋門,然後要沿著天守繞半圈,才能進去天守。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372432490/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372432490_27ae95d832_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372293759/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372293759_9972c0377b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>穿過ほの門後是腰曲輪,也能看到小天守的北面石垣。腰曲輪設有儲藏米與鹽的倉庫,被敵軍籠城包圍時,還能多撐一下。至於水的部分,由於天守地底下就是岩盤,為了補給便利,在腰曲輪鑿了水井。水井就在ロの渡櫓裡面,深度15m,但ロの渡櫓沒有開放入內,只能站在門口看看。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371070552/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371070552_2bb5f703e7_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371070532/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371070532_34de17d210_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372293629/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372293629_c7d8df9941_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372293704/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372293704_a4fe27483f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>ロの渡櫓屋簷上的鯱,已經飽受風霜,鰭都已經不見了。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372293754/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372293754_e8ee6abc77_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372164568/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372164568_9af371c15c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>小天守的北面石垣有流傳一個故事,相傳羽柴秀吉在建造天守時,石材收集不易,城下町有位賣燒餅的阿婆聽了,就贈送了一個石臼,羽柴秀吉很開心,將其用在小天守的北側。這故事很快就傳了開來,人們相繼捐贈石頭,使得建城工事變得順利,因此有了姥ヶ石的名稱,不過現在小天守的石垣已經不是當初羽柴秀吉所打造,</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371070447/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371070447_14b41118bf_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372432475/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372432475_45c09d7372_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>接著就要右後轉,轉入水曲輪。水曲輪的第一道門是水の一門,與ほの門之間夾了一道較高的油塀,巧妙的將水の一門藏在視線死角,再加上水の一門門後設計成下降的地勢,讓侵犯敵人認為並非通往天守之路。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372164613/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372164613_07fc53ee3d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371981966/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371981966_4f47a990cf_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372433070/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372433070_64a32cc14d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>水の門一共有六道,一路穿過已被指定為重要文化財的水の一門、水の二門、水の三門、水の四門,這才終於站在天守下方。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372433045/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372433045_9cf779f0c9_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372294269/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372294269_739ea52c94_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>姬路城屬於連立式天守,天守群可分為大天守、西小天守、東小天守、乾小天守,還有一堆渡櫓圍繞。路線由連結大天守與西小天守的ニの渡櫓進入,渡櫓2重2階,入口便是水の五門。然後左轉穿過水の六門,進入後便是換鞋區,脫鞋裝入塑膠袋,從提著爬天守。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371981941/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371981941_80782c36dd_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><div>姬路城的天守是現存規模最大的天守,天守台石垣14.5,天守總高度31.5m,5重6階的建築,再加上地下1階,總共7階。西小天守、東小天守、乾小天守則為3重,以2重渡櫓相互連結。</div><div><br /></div><div>外觀皆以白漆食總塗籠的工法塗佈,將白色灰泥塗抹在壁面與屋瓦接縫,完整包覆,據說這種工法是在關原之戰後才開發出來,可提高建築耐久性,並達到防火、耐火與防禦鐵炮的功效。也因為潔白的外觀,加上鳥禽展翅的飛簷,有了白鷺城的美名,是白鷺城由來的眾多說法之一。</div></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371981931/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371981931_8b174250c1_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372164983/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372164983_fa2792ae15_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>進入大天守內,首先從稱為穴藏的地階開始,地階這層要是沒有照明,整個昏暗,主要是不知用途的洗滌區、廚房與廁所,接著按照參觀路線走,慢慢往上繞。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371981721/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371981721_022068f96c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371981921/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371981921_5fd4868e64_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372294114/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372294114_76cc4a4766_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371071082/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371071082_7cccd38428_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>現在所看的天守,主要是池田輝政時期建造的模樣,在池田輝政之前的大改造,則是發生在羽柴秀吉當城代的時期。而姬路城起源,最早可推回南北朝時代的元弘2年(1332年)12月,後醍醐天皇的皇子 - 護良親王起兵推翻鎌倉幕府,爆發元弘之亂,身為播磨國守護的赤松則村,元弘3年(1333年)1月奉命在姬山上築砦防禦。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372294234/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372294234_b8567b2aef_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>往車站方向望去,下方是三之丸。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372433015/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372433015_42eb0a5e67_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>路線經過渡廊,再穿過二階的大廣間。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371071032/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371071032_29b8a860d7_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>渡廊上,有置放武器的掛架。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371071007/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371071007_65b9c00c40_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371981821/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371981821_7a0221565e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><div>室町幕府確立後,赤松則村的次男 - 赤松貞範,於貞和2年(1346年)將姬山砦進行改建,貞和5年(1349年)竣工,入住姫山城。赤松則村住沒幾年,便遷居至新蓋好的庄山城,由家臣小寺氏作為世襲城代。</div><div><br /></div><div>此時的姬山城只能說是規模較小的城寨,雖說曾因嘉吉之亂被山名氏佔據,但不久又被赤松氏奪回,由小寺氏繼續接管。直到戰國時代後期到安土桃山時代,姬山城才開始有中世城郭的樣貌,也才在永祿4年(1531年)有了記載姬山城的史料。</div></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372165053/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372165053_211a90fcfb_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371981781/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371981781_e71a48099d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372165038/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372165038_32a1831c8e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371070992/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371070992_1a3b440e80_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372165023/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372165023_0830d424a2_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><div>天文14年(1545年),小寺氏遷居御著城,姬山城改由小寺氏的武將黑田重隆接手,然後由黑田職隆、黑田孝高,一代一代繼任城代。由於播磨國夾在織田與毛利兩大勢力之間,小寺氏轉而投靠織田信長,與赤松氏為敵,因此赤松政秀率3000兵力攻打姬山城,卻被黑田軍以300的兵力,在姬山城西邊的青山擊退。</div><div><br /></div><div>永祿10年(1567年),羽柴秀吉奉織田信長之令,進駐播磨,對毛利輝元進行中國征伐。而投靠毛利氏的小寺氏沒落,作為家臣的黑田氏早就與羽柴秀吉互通有好,黑田孝高將姬路城本丸讓給羽柴秀吉,自己移至二之丸居住,黑田職隆則隱居到姬路城東南邊的國府山城。</div></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371981761/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371981761_56b14180af_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372164963/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372164963_66556ff1ce_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371070947/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371070947_bbdbe78368_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371981736/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371981736_6f1c8ef447_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371981686/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371981686_6f842c2a34_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371070957/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371070957_75e91d1353_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><div>天正8年(1580年),羽柴秀吉相繼攻下三木城與英賀城,平定了播磨,黑田孝高向羽柴秀吉進言將此處當作居城,獻上了姬路城,自己移居國府山城。於是,羽柴秀吉於同年開始整建姬山城,打造一座3層的天守,改以石垣圍繞的城郭,才有了近世城郭的模樣。</div><div><br /></div><div>另有一說,姬山城於此時改名為姬路城。姬路城的城下町於城的南邊形成,原本從姬路城北邊而過的山陽道,也為此往南彎入城下町,姬路城隨之發展為播磨的中心。</div><div><br /></div><div>之後就是眾所皆知的本能寺之變,明智光秀被討伐,豐臣秀吉移居大阪城後成為天下人。姬路城的城主則由羽柴秀長與木下家定相繼接任。</div></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372294129/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372294129_14682f4017_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372432905/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372432905_4aee65f63b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372432885/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372432885_6d2efa0a3b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>直到慶長5年(1600年)關原之戰後,由獲得戰功的池田輝政入主姬路城,成為姬路藩初代藩主,並於隔年奉德川家康之令,進行從慶長6年(1601年)至慶長14年(1609年)的姬路城大整修,將城郭規模擴大,推估約有4千萬至5千萬的人力來建造,目的就是為了讓姬路城成為牽制西國諸大名的重要據點。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371981671/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371981671_cf30aaa480_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372433335/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372433335_5bc452e8d5_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371982256/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371982256_3840090453_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372165423/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372165423_361217f172_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>來到大天守最上層的六階,這裡有一座小神社,是長壁神社的分靈。</div><div><br /></div><div>長壁神社是姬路的鎮座神社,主祭神是刑部大神,刑部大神代表了光仁天皇的皇子 - 刑部親王,以及親王的王女 - 富姬的兩位神明,在奈良時代被讒言所迫,在姬山過世。國司角野氏將2人供奉在姬山,神社創建的時間不明。羽柴秀吉改建姬山城時,將神社遷移至城下町。到了池田輝政入城後,蓋了新的天守後,怪異四起,池田輝政也意外病倒,認為是被詛咒,這才將神社移回城內。據傳,她每年都會與城主會面一次,將姬路城的命運告訴城主。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371981816/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371981816_0929ba9355_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371071402/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371071402_3e8c5d668e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372294389/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372294389_763a1249ef_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>關於長壁姬的傳說有不少,除了神明的版本之外,就是妖怪的版本。長壁姬也稱為小刑部姬,因為討厭人類,所以隱居在姬路城天守中,只要有人類進入她的住所,便會化身為一丈高的巨人,將人類驅逐。一樣是因為改建了姬路城,將小刑部姬的墳塚移至別處,為了平息小刑部姬的怒氣,將她供奉在大天守的長壁神社之中。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371982216/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371982216_12423aa298_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371982211/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371982211_9f224627bb_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>另外一則妖怪的故事,是小刑部姬被宮本武藏懲治的故事。年輕的宮本武藏有一段時間以足輕的假身分,受雇於木下家定。某天城主 - 木下家定發現宮本武藏的真實身分,於是委託他去降服躲在天守內的妖怪。</div><div><br /></div><div>宮本武藏提著燈來到天守五階,快要黎明之時,一位女性現身在他面前,自稱為小刑部大明神,她告訴宮本武藏,盤踞於此數百年的老狐狸因為害怕而逃跑了,為了答謝,她將鄉義弘這把名刀送給宮本武藏,作為驅趕妖怪的禮物。女性就是妖怪的化身,鄉義弘是木下家的家傳寶物,意圖陷害宮本武藏。但妖怪的企圖沒有成功,宮本武藏沒有被問罪,反倒是妖怪化身少年混入宮本武藏的弟子中,被識破而降伏。</div><div><br /></div><div>話說這趟旅程的尾端,也要去看宮本武藏與佐佐木小次郎~</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372165363/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372165363_d7454575b5_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371071367/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371071367_dd95f36420_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371071332/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371071332_eeea30b4a5_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372165328/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372165328_b849c90778_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /></div></div><div><br /></div><div>池田輝政是姬路藩初代藩主,但第二代池田利隆繼任家督後太短命,第三代池田光政年僅8歲,因年紀太輕,沒多久就被轉封鳥取。這之後便由本多氏、松平氏、榊原氏、酒井氏,先後成為姬路城藩主,直到廢藩置縣。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372165373/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372165373_538669e25b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372294384/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372294384_f51bc1711e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div>雖然一路順著動線繞來繞去,中間都會有支撐天守的東大柱與西大柱的身影,這兩根木柱,一撐就撐了350餘年。</div><div><br /></div><div>在昭和大修理期間,因為西大柱的木芯腐爛,不得不更換新木柱。換下的舊西大柱,發現是由日本冷杉及日本鐵杉兩種木材拼接而成,三階地板的下半部是冷杉,地板之上的是鐵杉。取而代之的新西大柱,是由檜木所打造,只是原木在運送途中發生斷裂,三階以上則是用兩根拼接而成。東大柱是一根沒有拼接的貫通柱,昭和大修理時將下部切除,改用台灣的檜木拼接。</div><div><br /></div><div>目前舊西大柱在姬路城三之丸展示,而切下來的舊東大柱,則展示在兵庫縣立歷史博物館。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372165353/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372165353_5e1d731f1f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372294464/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372294464_d9a73c8fa5_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371982181/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371982181_6bd670967d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>最後,動線來到小天守。首先進入與大天守及東小天守相連的イの渡櫓,在到ロの渡櫓、乾小天守、ハの渡櫓、西小天守,最後穿過水の六門,回到ニの渡櫓。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371982176/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371982176_bacd066b2c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372165208/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372165208_f077fe5198_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>東小天守是3重3階加地下1階,乾小天守是3重4階加地下1階,西小天守是3重3階加地下2階,渡櫓則是2重2階加地下1階,地上1階的部分相互連接,展示著許多時期的鬼瓦與半瓦。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372294449/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372294449_19bfcdf647_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372165263/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372165263_f5ae641a4b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372165258/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372165258_069d60ece3_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371071252/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371071252_e02a9b0a78_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372165248/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372165248_39e5f0d931_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372294429/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372294429_911a0841f4_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>模擬姬路城內曲輪、中曲輪、外曲輪的街墎模型當然也少不了。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371071247/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371071247_6d91cd9490_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>往東面到北面望出去的展望,以及動線不會經過的との一門,據傳這道門是從姬路城北邊一座山城 - 置塩城遷移過來,置塩城則是赤松氏原本的居城。</div><div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372433185/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372433185_5ef7fb403d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372165308/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="IMG_0617_stitch"><img alt="IMG_0617_stitch" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372165308_c14acbd349_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372165198/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372165198_a3bf27a809_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /></div></div><div><br /></div><div>西面到西南面就是位在鷺山上的西之丸,也是一道又一道的橹群。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371982066/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371982066_e7bc8381a1_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372294419/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372294419_de8c93a8fe_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371982041/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371982041_41aafaa170_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>走出水の四門後轉到天守群南面的備前丸,抬頭仰望姬路城天守群,感覺特別龐大、氣勢逼人,不自覺拿起相機,想再多拍幾張不同角度的樣貌。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371071187/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371071187_beef67e257_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372294359/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="IMG_0643_stitch"><img alt="IMG_0643_stitch" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372294359_4374a567cb_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371983396/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371983396_df4b82b9a6_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>天守南面的備前丸,能夠直接俯瞰到車站,有如君臨天下之勢。以前備前丸是御殿及池田氏處理政務之所,但在明治時期被火燒毀了。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371072642/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371072642_472559c67e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372433300/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372433300_50f02e5f6f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>備前丸的東側是帶曲輪,這次剛好遇上特別開放參觀帶の櫓,但因為今天也是德仁天皇的但生日,所以2月23日這天定為國定假日,來參訪姬路城的人潮愈來愈多,我們看到要排隊入場就放棄了。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372434440/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372434440_fecfdeab36_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371982661/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371982661_4d65e9cdf0_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371982416/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371982416_5d5f0e7c55_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371071602/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371071602_4fd1969d35_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372433705/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372433705_45c5f9c7d9_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>帶曲輪也有腹切丸的暱稱,因為建築物的配置及陰森的氛圍,讓以前的人聯想到切腹的地方。帶曲輪的另一端是太鼓櫓,穿過旁邊矮小又不起眼的りの門,便是二之丸的上山里曲輪。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372433680/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372433680_b70feba4d2_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>上山里曲輪的廣場中央,有一群人圍著,靠近一看,原來是一座名為お菊井的古井。但在大正時代開放姬路城之前,是叫做釣瓶取の井戶。</div><div><br /></div><div>日本三大怪談皿屋敷、四谷怪談、牡丹灯籠,通常隨著流傳會演變出多種故事,眾多版本中的播州皿屋敷就與這座古井有關。江戶時代流傳的故事是,女傭阿菊不小心打破主人家傳的盤子,主人便砍下阿菊的中指,監禁於房內。阿菊逃出後,投井自殺,以死明志,從此之後,每當夜晚井底就會傳來阿菊亡靈在數盤子的聲音。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372433675/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372433675_a8c3eb973f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372294694/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372294694_a67f772afc_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>故事的原型則是要回到小寺氏執掌城代的時候,那時候是永正年間,姬路城第9代城主小寺則職的家臣 - 青山鐵山試圖奪權造反。另一位家臣衣笠元信察覺後,將自己的妾室送入青山家做傭人,打探謀反的情報,結果衣笠元信就在小寺則職賞花之際,阻止青山鐵山的毒殺,救出主公。</div><div><br /></div><div>謀反失敗的青山鐵山,下令町坪彈四朗去找出告密者。町坪彈四朗沒多久就發現告密者是自己愛慕的お菊,於是要求お菊做自己的妾室便不揭發此事。但お菊拒絕了,町坪彈四朗就將青山鐵山祖傳十枚一組的盤子藏匿一枚,嫁禍お菊。お菊受到責罰殺害,丟入水井。最後,衣笠元信剷除青山鐵山一夥人後,發現お菊已被殺害,將她供俸在十二所神社,成為お菊大明神。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372294924/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372294924_596aa49873_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372433695/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372433695_c57028978f_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>上山里曲輪西側是ぬの門,由リの二渡櫓、リの一渡櫓、チの櫓組成,因為還在整修,沒有開放,僅在屋簷下展示明治、昭和、平城三個年代的鯱模型。</div><div><br /></div><div>每個時期修復的鯱都有些許不同之處,明治時期的鯱,身上鱗片較明顯,眼睛較圓;昭和時期的鯱,鼻頭到眼睛的刻痕更加明顯;平成時期則是刻痕更深,更佳立體化,倒是背鰭的尖錐變得稀疏。</div><div><br /></div><div>附帶一提,天守屋脊上的鯱,通常是雌雄一對,然而姬路城天守的鯱,卻都是雌的鯱,在日本少見的狀況,相當珍稀。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372165718/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372165718_876e699830_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372165733/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372165733_eb2e2992c4_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372433625/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372433625_a6165f99c8_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371071582/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371071582_15c19f2531_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>穿過ぬの門,有個扇の勾配的解說牌,介紹備前丸西側這面石垣的轉角處,以算木積み的工法,將長方形的石垣長短交錯堆疊,如曲線般愈往上愈陡峭,以防敵人入侵。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372165728/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372165728_0093e39a28_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372165558/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372165558_802feda92d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372433620/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372433620_cdaf7319c2_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>ぬの門的左後方有一道るの門,是從石垣之間開鑿出來的穴門,作為天守的捷徑,方便逃生,也可安排伏兵,從側邊襲擊闖入菱之門的敵人。必要時,關上門從內側用土石掩埋,回到石垣的防禦功能。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372294834/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372294834_fcda0b415d_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372165548/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372165548_6e350afd31_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372294854/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372294854_2f86f5e144_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372433605/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372433605_95c5874407_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>最後再回到菱之門,繞了一圈約1小時出頭,畢竟不能隨意亂走,此時外頭等著要進來的遊客已經排一長串,可見姬路城相當有魅力,這也可以理解非得要按照規畫路線走的原因。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372165688/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372165688_4effe8c2de_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>只有西之丸可以隨意晃,沒有動線,就在這拍幾張姬路城天守群的照片當作收尾吧。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372294824/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372294824_d953f2b954_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372433445/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372433445_18c6ff1442_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372433565/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372433565_c356de7457_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>走回大手前通り,眼角瞄到屋頂不太對勁,抬頭看,原來有隻黑白色的賓士貓在屋頂做日光浴。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371071557/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371071557_b1ac290c64_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372433545/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372433545_ddd7a56bda_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>在商店街找了間Doutor Coffee,坐著休息一下。店內的背景牆正好是手繪風格的姬路城天守群,我們就當作是坐在城內野餐吧~</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372723619/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="2020221-228 激怒馬_200325_0031"><img alt="2020221-228 激怒馬_200325_0031" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372723619_5857c807af_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371983126/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371983126_3da61c86f0_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>明天就要離開姬路,希望下次還有機會再來,把未完成的路跑完。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372295429/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372295429_52cc6682c0_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372295404/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372295404_f5d93d6ac6_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>晚上本來想去泡個溫泉暖暖身子,走到姬路城前,燈還亮著,天守在黑夜中更加白皙,走進大手門,想在三之丸廣場拍幾張照,也還有不少在地人在運動,索性就改成繞城散步一圈好了。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372295289/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372295289_26ca0aef13_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372434085/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372434085_15586245cd_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372295259/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372295259_46cc0635eb_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371072227/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371072227_2dbbae60b9_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>高不可攀的石垣映著樹影,這才覺得原來天守周遭的樹有這麼高,夜晚與白天有著截然不同的感受。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371072202/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371072202_3ebb6e7c39_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372295359/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372295359_86b8d7c5d0_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371983081/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371983081_0a5b599123_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>天守的北邊是姬山公園,夾在兩道內堀之間,走出昔日的北勢隱門,接上千姬小徑,瞬間縮城狹窄堤道。這段路有如浮在河上,順著河道向前延伸的長橋,兩旁的櫻花與楓樹,都恰好不是時節,枯枝與對岸的綠葉隔著河對望。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372166223/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372166223_e24299b72c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372295354/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372295354_dc2e439caa_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><div>千姬小徑的千姬,應該與德川家的千姬有關聯,但這位她可說是命運多乖。千姬是德川家康三子 - 德川秀忠的長女,關原之戰後,許配給豐臣秀吉與茶茶所生的豐臣秀賴,嫁去大坂城,大坂夏之陣被救回。</div><div><br /></div><div>在豐臣秀吉與茶茶自盡後,千姬改嫁給本多忠刻,其祖父也就是德川四天王、日本七柱槍的本多忠勝。改嫁一年後,其父本多忠政受封西國領地,成為姬路城城主,千姬也獲得幕府賞賜10萬石作為嫁粧,獲稱播磨姬君。</div><div><br /></div><div>千姬與本多忠刻生下了長女 - 勝姬與長子 - 幸千代,但接下來的幾年,幸千代夭折,本多忠刻、忠刻的母親熊姬、千姬的母親淺井小督,相繼過世。面對接踵而來的不幸事件,千姬帶的女兒勝姬回到江戶城,剃髮出家為尼。之後,勝姬被安排嫁給從姬路轉封鳥取的池田光政。</div></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371072182/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371072182_8e15d96557_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372295334/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372295334_12e58011dc_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372295319/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372295319_09ebc0ee0d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>晚上9點多,想吃點宵夜,此時店家幾乎都關了,一路晃到接近山陽姬路駅附近,發現這間新生軒拉麵店。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372295324/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372295324_f98a80b14c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>店內貼著環遊地球一周的郵輪之旅,想起前公司隔壁部門主管提早退休後,參加了這行程,看著他邊航行邊在Facebook發布的有趣經歷,或許退休後來一趟這樣的旅程也不賴!</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372166203/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="IMG_20200223_213716"><img alt="IMG_20200223_213716" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372166203_543795643e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>不一會,餛飩拉麵端了上來,看起來透明的清湯,以為只是一般陽春麵,嚐一口令人驚艷不已,湯頭風味相當厚實,三兩下就見底。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53371072037/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="IMG_20200223_214022"><img alt="IMG_20200223_214022" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53371072037_812a6bc8a2_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>最後,在便利商店買杯飲料,發現タピオカ的珍珠系列飲品,買了一杯珍奶,結果裡面的顆粒嚐起來不太像台灣的珍珠,到挺像椰果的口感。反正都是木薯粉產物,有口感就好,心滿意足地回民宿。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372295434/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="IMG_20200223_215843"><img alt="IMG_20200223_215843" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372295434_e1456d5e59_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div>後記:2020年世界遺產姬路城馬拉松的跑衣,穿起來還蠻舒服的,如果能做成長袖的就更完美了,畢竟2月底的氣溫還是挺低的,如果又像前幾年比賽當天天氣都不理想,至少不會太單薄。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372434105/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372434105_6e86540e0a_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>因為廠商來不及供貨,完賽毛巾事後補發。回國後,過了好一陣子,收到大會寄送的賽事毛巾。但只寄來一條,是給Celia的,我則沒收到,算了,反正也沒有完賽嘛,這樣想就好了。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53382138120/in/dateposted-public/" title="IMG_20200422_190509_1_1"><img alt="IMG_20200422_190509_1_1" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53382138120_2deff2de1e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>補上在姬路看到的各種人孔蓋,願下回能跑旅姬路。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295302000/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0364"><img alt="IMG_0364" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295302000_67006e11c7_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295081908/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0363"><img alt="IMG_0363" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295081908_67004eb9f0_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295081833/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0368"><img alt="IMG_0368" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295081833_4633f975ec_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372432215/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372432215_1924e3924c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295209694/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0369"><img alt="IMG_0369" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295209694_96c5158095_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295081598/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0378"><img alt="IMG_0378" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295081598_108c8e4a3f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /></div><div><br /></div>
2020.02</div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2023/10/day-1.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #ffe599;" target="_blank">日本山陽行 + 貓島第三彈 Day 1:神戶動物王國.北野坂異人館街.神戸クアハウス溫泉膠囊旅館</a></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2023/12/day-2.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #ffe599;" target="_blank">日本山陽行 + 貓島第三彈 Day 2:生田神社.神戶港塔.神戶牛.有馬溫泉</a></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2024/02/day-3-2.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #ffe599;" target="_blank">日本山陽行 + 貓島第三彈 Day 3-2:明石城.明石雞蛋燒.舞子公園.明石海峽大橋</a></div><div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2024/02/day-3-2.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #ffe599;" target="_blank">日本山陽行 + 貓島第三彈 Day 3-2:明石城.明石雞蛋燒.舞子公園.明石海峽大橋</a></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2024/02/day-4-1.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #ffe599;" target="_blank">日本山陽行 + 貓島第三彈 Day 4-1:姬路城好古園.活水軒穴子魚套餐</a></div></div>Laxichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04802970745091107114noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37782309.post-82287530624523667502023-12-02T17:20:00.014+08:002024-02-25T02:09:27.352+08:00日本山陽行 + 貓島第三彈 Day 2:生田神社.神戶港塔.神戶牛.有馬溫泉
<div>按表訂行程,明天就是跑姬路城馬拉松的日子,整個行程上,特別排了第一天是搭飛機移動日,為了不影響跑步狀態,又再多一天的跑前緩衝日,讓明天有好的狀態面對6小時內要跑完的姬路馬,所以今天沒有安排緊湊的行程,就是慢慢從神戶移動到姬路。<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53294826521/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0290"><img alt="IMG_0290" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53294826521_046a088447_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><span><a name='more'></a></span></div><div><br /></div><div>昨晚睡前還想著早上睡醒泡個溫泉,結果偷懶賴一下床,就差不多到集合出門的時間。走出溫泉膠囊旅館外,濕濕冷冷的天氣,天空還飄著毛毛細雨,反正大會也取消活動了,壓根不擔心是濕冷天氣會否延續到明天。</div><div><br /></div><div>我們沿著旅店外的山手幹線,往生田神社的方向走去,一會來到東門街對面的西村咖啡(神戸にしむら珈琲店中山手本店)。作為總店的中山手本店,建築外觀相當特別,大門入口有著電影中所見的美式屋簷,整棟六層樓打造成歐式木屋的風格,覺得相當厲害,就決定在這喝杯咖啡,享用早餐。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295192114/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_20200222_083611"><img alt="IMG_20200222_083611" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295192114_1f84ea1111_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295282375/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0129"><img alt="IMG_0129" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295282375_a082b4f7c1_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53294811321/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0131"><img alt="IMG_0131" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53294811321_fbe7bd54bb_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><div>看了一下西村咖啡的發展史,其實不算長,畢竟日本有不少從江戶時代就創業的店。再者,咖啡館在明治到大正時期就已經風行,在東京、橫濱、大阪、神戶,這些較早西化的城市,早就雨後春筍地開設。</div><div><br /></div><div>西村咖啡開業的時間是在二戰結束後三年後,昭和23年(1948年)。當時物資缺乏,人們只能找大豆作為咖啡豆的替代品,已故的川瀬喜代子女士開創了這間咖啡館,讓咖啡再次飄香。除了多種咖啡豆調和的咖啡(Blend)外, 率先提供單一種類咖啡豆烘焙(Straight)的單品咖啡,強調不同種類咖啡豆的獨特韻味。</div></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53293935877/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0134"><img alt="IMG_0134" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53293935877_314f78540d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>弄成笑臉的煎火腿荷包蛋,不禁會心一笑,一早就好心情。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295284255/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_20200222_085303"><img alt="IMG_20200222_085303" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295284255_ce5164ae1a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53293937937/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_20200222_085307"><img alt="IMG_20200222_085307" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53293937937_fe62e7f723_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>意猶未盡,再加點一道布丁,配還沒喝完的熱咖啡。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295064588/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_20200222_091927"><img alt="IMG_20200222_091927" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295064588_c7a80e3ca7_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>穿入熱鬧一夜後回歸寧靜的東門街,走進生田神社的東門,先是來到本殿右後方的生田稻荷大明神神社,朱紅鳥居整齊排列,像是迷你版的伏見稻荷大社千本鳥居。心目中最想去的稻荷神社,倒不是京都伏見的總本社,而是在山口縣長門市的元乃隅稻成神社,看那百本鳥居蜿蜒到海蝕洞斷崖旁,與藍天大海相互輝映的絕景。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53293935892/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0137"><img alt="IMG_0137" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53293935892_f11edfaa4d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53293935842/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0139"><img alt="IMG_0139" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53293935842_689a9d33ed_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>稻荷神社的主祭神是掌管五穀與食物的穀物神,名為稻倉魂命,別名宇迦之御魂神、御饌津神等等,日本神話的神祇總是有很多又長又繞口的名字,特別難唸。</div><div><br /></div><div>穿過重重鳥居,左右兩旁的狐狸石像是稻倉魂命的使者,輪廓線條俐落,很像遊戲《大神(おおかみ)》,充滿日本神話及浮世繪的風格。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295282055/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0147"><img alt="IMG_0147" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295282055_4e328b876a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295062483/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0148"><img alt="IMG_0148" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295062483_b002388337_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>稻荷神社外觀華麗,第一次見到有唐破風屋簷與懸魚的稻荷神社,虹梁上的白狐雕飾栩栩如生,屋簷下掛著白狐狸的長燈籠,一整個就很新穎的感覺。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295189964/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0145"><img alt="IMG_0145" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295189964_b6be5cfb5e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53293935717/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0146"><img alt="IMG_0146" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53293935717_d8efbab8d0_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>東門的另一旁,是株斷了頭的楠木,在二戰末期的神戶大空襲時,遭到轟炸後,燃燒倒下,如今這株楠木仍未枯死,根據切片下來的年輪計算,樹齡有500年以上。</div><div><br /></div><div>P.S. 《螢火蟲之墓》就是以B-29轟炸機對神戶連番轟炸後的絕望故事。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53293935792/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0140"><img alt="IMG_0140" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53293935792_2918659d89_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295189699/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0150"><img alt="IMG_0150" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295189699_859f6c0fa0_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>北側的生田之森是神社的鎮守之森。照理說,鎮守之森都是很大一片,作為神籬將神社環繞在內,但在都市的擴張下,漸漸縮小到如今的規模。</div><div><br /></div><div>至少,從歷史的記載可以知道,生田之曾經是一片古老的大森林。在安平時代末期,鎌倉幕府的源賴朝與平家政權的平清盛的鬥爭端上檯面,源平合戰爆發,其中關鍵的一之谷之戰,源范賴/源義經進軍福原(現今的神戶中央區至兵庫區一帶),平家就在生田口與一之谷(神戶市須磨區一帶)之間應戰。當時平知盛就率軍紮營在這片林地中,只是最後,平家大敗,平家一門戰死。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53294810926/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0151"><img alt="IMG_0151" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53294810926_6af213db8c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53293935217/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0160"><img alt="IMG_0160" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53293935217_37c5873f3f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>歷史超過1800年的生田神社,於神功皇后元年(西元201年)創建。神功皇后是古墳時代的皇族,第14代天皇仲哀天皇的皇后,那時神功皇后征服了朝鮮半島的新羅,凱旋歸來,在返回大和都城途中,她的船在神戶海岸外轉來轉去無法前行,於是進行神卜,得到稚日女尊(天照大神的胞妹)神諭,說想居住在活田長狹國(當時的攝津國一帶,現今的大阪、兵庫一帶),結果海面立即恢復平穩,得以安全通行。</div><div><br /></div><div>於是,神功皇后便命麾下豪族 - 海上五十狹茅,建造了生田神社。據說,活田長狹國位在生田川上游的布引山(現今新神戶駅後方深處),延暦18年(799年)洪水氾濫,這座砂山的西面沖毀坍塌,神社傾斜損壞,生田村的村民刀禰七太夫揹著神像尋找供俸的地方,背了7、8天來到森林中,突然覺得神像變得沉重,一步也走不動,如是便將神像鎮座,也就是現在的位置。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295062308/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0155"><img alt="IMG_0155" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295062308_49b5d3b22f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295189464/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0154"><img alt="IMG_0154" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295189464_123f4ab700_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>本殿的主祭神就是稚日女尊,掌管萬物成長與織物的女神,也因為神功皇后的經歷,讓稚日女尊成了掌管風雨的神祉之一,生田神社在平安時代被朝廷大力慷慨地供奉,一直延續至今,這大概也是為什麼神社內處處掛著印有代表天皇及皇室的菊花紋白色燈籠。</div><div><br /></div><div>後來的人認為情緣有如絲線般交織纏繞,衍生出結緣的意涵,讓生田神社成為有名的戀愛神社之一,盼望姻緣的人在這不只可以祈求結緣御守,也能在生田之森的小水池進行水占卜。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295189319/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0158"><img alt="IMG_0158" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295189319_4c7d9c5f0c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53294810796/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0157"><img alt="IMG_0157" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53294810796_a6e08495e4_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div>經過Patisserie Tooth Tooth本店,昨晚意猶未盡,很想再進去買些甜點,但中午預約了神戶牛鐵板燒,要忍住。 <br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53294810476/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0161_1"><img alt="IMG_0161_1" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53294810476_9266c763d4_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>神戶靠近奈良與京都,作為日本國內東西航路與對外聯絡的據點,自古就是重要的貿易港,最初稱為兵庫津,街道上的人孔蓋圖案,大船入港是一定要有的,再來就是地標,紅通通的神戶港塔。 </div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53293935257/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0162"><img alt="IMG_0162" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53293935257_13e858305f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53294811401/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0163"><img alt="IMG_0163" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53294811401_ec460c7450_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>從三宮・花時計前駅搭上市營地下鐵海岸線的電車,前去離神戶港塔最近的車站是港元町駅(みなと元町駅)。為了避免迷路,走平面保險,雖然要過很多路口,但也比走地下通路來的輕鬆,因為三宮駅底下有著阪急神戶、JR神戶、阪神神戶等等複雜的指標,會看的眼花撩亂。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295068248/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0166"><img alt="IMG_0166" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295068248_d3271e5b9f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>從地鐵站出來,從高架的阪神高速3號神戶線下方穿過,往中突堤方向走去,就能望見顯著的神戶港塔。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295287950/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0170"><img alt="IMG_0170" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295287950_5d18ed12aa_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295287935/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0171"><img alt="IMG_0171" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295287935_ab04608f65_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a href="http://www.kobe-port-tower.com/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">神戶港塔(神戸ポートタワー)</a>的門票700円,因為有購買<a href="https://www.surutto.com/tickets/kansai_thru_hantaiji.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">關西周遊卡</a>,出示可以折抵100円。神戶港塔於昭和38年(1963年)完工開業,建築外型有如傳統手持的小鼓,直紋雙曲面構造,猶如纖細的腰身,有鐵塔的美女(鉄塔の美女)之別稱。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295195864/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0226_1"><img alt="IMG_0226_1" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295195864_2158f00b2b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>據說當時的神戶市市長原口忠次郎,走訪荷蘭鹿特丹時,望著歐洲之桅(Euromast)有感而發,返國後決定興建。最初設計銀色外觀,因為飛安因素,改採紅色,加以白色點綴。</div><div><br /></div><div>神戶港塔分為2個區域,從地面算起的地面3層與上方塔身的展望5層。看一看1樓的展示資料,認識一下全日本鐵塔協會的20座鐵塔。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295195794/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0174"><img alt="IMG_0174" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295195794_f6ddab10a4_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295195709/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0178"><img alt="IMG_0178" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295195709_40c3816153_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a></div><div><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295195764/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0175"><img alt="IMG_0175" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295195764_da7029a090_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295287670/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0179"><img alt="IMG_0179" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295287670_0e38fc7101_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a></div><div><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295068133/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0176"><img alt="IMG_0176" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295068133_3c91b0ee2f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53293941007/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0177"><img alt="IMG_0177" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53293941007_1ae0555781_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>前往2樓搭電梯到展望層,因為是錐形又曲面構造,所以建築體的外牆是斜面,空間愈往上愈小,與地面層相反,展望層是上面愈寬。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53294816396/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0181"><img alt="IMG_0181" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53294816396_183af4a7da_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><br /><br /></div><div>神戶港塔的高度有108m,電梯直達展望層4樓,再爬樓梯上到5樓。展望層5樓的高度90.28m,360度的環狀觀景窗,還有幾張看上去有點典雅的木製沙發椅。此時沒有其他遊客,正好讓我們坐著休息一下。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295287740/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0182"><img alt="IMG_0182" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295287740_632b65e396_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>天空仍在陰雨綿綿的狀態,看出去的海與天以灰階呈現,不是海天一色波光粼粼的藍色系。</div><div><br /></div><div>南面不遠處是橘紅色的摩天輪モザイク大観覧車與購物商場神戸ハーバーランドumie mosaic,停靠在商場前的<a href="https://thekobecruise.com/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">神戸船の旅 コンチェルト</a>,航線是往西到須磨繞一圈,可以在船上用餐,欣賞港灣美景。以後再來,可以選擇在船上享用晚餐,從海上觀看神戶港美景,一定很棒。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295195474/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0188"><img alt="IMG_0188" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295195474_1600aace63_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53294816411/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0183"><img alt="IMG_0183" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53294816411_8f44c8d330_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>停靠在中突堤中央ターミナル的<a href="http://www.kobe-seabus.com/index.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">神戸シーバス boh boh KOBE</a>與<a href="https://kobebayc.co.jp/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">御座船安宅丸(神戸ベイクルーズ)</a>,都是往東到神戶空港及人工島繞行的觀光船。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295068043/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0185"><img alt="IMG_0185" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295068043_743d4669d6_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>由南往東,許多臨海的工廠與吊臂,是川崎重工的據點。與神戶港塔同一塊突堤的末端,是中突堤旅客ターミナル,上方半圓弧的白色建築物是神戶美利堅公園東方酒店(神戸メリケンパーク オリエンタルホテル),只是從神戶港塔上無法看見側面的美麗圓弧線條。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295195214/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0204"><img alt="IMG_0204" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295195214_68c8b6a732_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295195109/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0210"><img alt="IMG_0210" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295195109_53228776df_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295195469/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0189_stitch"><img alt="IMG_0189_stitch" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295195469_6a3e63eff6_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>下方白色的<a href="https://kobe-maritime-museum.com/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">神戶海洋博物館</a>,以大量鏤空的白色鋼構框架,在博物館的屋頂上構築出帆船、帆布、海浪的意象。再往東的新港突堤,是往四國、九州、中國上海航行的國內/外航線碼頭。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295287480/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0197"><img alt="IMG_0197" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295287480_21890ef990_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295195459/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0192"><img alt="IMG_0192" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295195459_7cb23f4018_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295195104/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0211"><img alt="IMG_0211" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295195104_d13f533c55_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>繼續逆時鐘繞行,有一個大大的心型拍照裝置,原來神戶港塔也是戀人聖地之一。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295195489/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0194"><img alt="IMG_0194" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295195489_c57bfc2532_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295067858/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0198"><img alt="IMG_0198" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295067858_bcc60a4cba_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>北側是六甲山,霧濛濛的,連山的綠都轉為暗沉。神戶在山麓與海灣的地形限制下,狹長的平地上塞了滿滿的建築物,必須向海爭地,填出了那麼多的碼頭突堤。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53294816246/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0199"><img alt="IMG_0199" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53294816246_1b883fb066_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295287620/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0187"><img alt="IMG_0187" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295287620_d946ba792a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53294816181/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0200"><img alt="IMG_0200" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53294816181_401eaf8903_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div>可惜實在太朦朧了,看不遠,據說天氣好可以望見淡路島,不過也沒關係,明天去明石海峽大橋也看的到淡路島,以後有機會再來神戶港塔登高望遠。</div><div><br /></div><div>展望層4樓與5樓一樣,多了個販售紀念品的小區域。3樓是旋轉餐廳,每20分鐘繞一圈,此時還沒到營業時間,空無一人。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53293940622/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0209"><img alt="IMG_0209" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53293940622_1c5fa967ef_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53294815891/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0212"><img alt="IMG_0212" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53294815891_21986a7508_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295067623/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0213"><img alt="IMG_0213" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295067623_caa8ba672f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>穿過2樓,來到展望層1樓,地板鏤空的玻璃可以直接看到75m下方的馬路,還有不斷交錯的結構體。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295194919/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0218"><img alt="IMG_0218" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295194919_7404849d38_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295287130/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0219"><img alt="IMG_0219" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295287130_a5b6d9958f_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295287125/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0224"><img alt="IMG_0224" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295287125_9779ed65ac_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>下行的電梯來到3樓地面,往出口的路徑沿途掛著神戶港塔這50多年來的發展史。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295194909/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0225"><img alt="IMG_0225" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295194909_44b734d2f6_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>逛完神戶港塔,馬上趕往<a href="http://www.steakaoyama.com/index.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">ステーキ青山 (Tor Road Steak Aoyama</a>),趕赴午餐的約會。</div><div><br /></div><div>一開始在搜尋神戶牛餐廳時,餐廳多的眼花撩亂,也有不少名人加持的連鎖系列店,但都覺得價位高的嚇人。無意間發現這間溫馨的小店,透過官網連結到Facebook,便馬上從傳訊息預訂時段。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295070088/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0248"><img alt="IMG_0248" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295070088_4030cfaf11_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>午餐有12點整與1點半兩個時段可供選擇,店內的座位不多,接待的客人有限,約10人以內。今天第一個時段連我們只有三組,其中一組沒到,另一組是來自墨爾本的華人青年,一個人來用餐,壓線趕到,不然整間店就要我們包場了。雖然有一組沒到,但店家還是很堅持原則,門外有對臨時來詢問的外國男女,就被委婉拒絕了。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53294819526/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_20200222_120950"><img alt="IMG_20200222_120950" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53294819526_4a30a7f72a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>我們都點了午餐時段限定特選黑毛和牛套餐(5,100円),接著食材上桌,讓大家先拍照拍個夠。這塊美麗的和牛,是我們三人份的,心裡還有點肖想是一個人的份量,不過分成三份的量也足夠了,過猶不及。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53294819416/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_20200222_121726"><img alt="IMG_20200222_121726" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53294819416_8f7ea45aa0_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295289675/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0229"><img alt="IMG_0229" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295289675_49c3691ddc_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>大家圍繞鐵板膳檯而坐,欣賞主廚舞動鐵鏟,身後另一個配膳檯先送上開胃前菜及濃湯。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295070998/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_20200222_122003"><img alt="IMG_20200222_122003" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295070998_375261e4ae_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53294819441/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_20200222_122948"><img alt="IMG_20200222_122948" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53294819441_a661d7e30b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>主廚向每個人詢問想要的熟度後,俐落地將肉切成三等份,然後一刀一刀切成丁。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295289660/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0232"><img alt="IMG_0232" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295289660_f79ec7b867_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295070978/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_20200222_123036"><img alt="IMG_20200222_123036" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295070978_a0f7423f5d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53293942662/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0235"><img alt="IMG_0235" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53293942662_438230bc1e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53294818306/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0241"><img alt="IMG_0241" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53294818306_db1ed53588_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>一塊塊煎好的神戶牛擺到眼前,隨著熱氣竄上來的香味,讓人忍不住大快朵頤。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53294819376/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_20200222_123343"><img alt="IMG_20200222_123343" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53294819376_01f4482bd8_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295069773/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0246"><img alt="IMG_0246" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295069773_b2be62e41a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>軟嫩的神戶牛在嘴裡噴汁(油脂?),大大滿足,意猶未盡。附餐是白飯與吐司二選一,當然是選擇後者,讓吐司將剛才神戶牛留在鐵板上的肉汁(油脂?)全部吸附。</div><div><br /></div><div>餐後,換到旁邊的餐桌座位,送上飯後的咖啡或茶,不急不徐地,把口中的餘韻慢慢吞下肚,為這場饗宴收尾。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295197314/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0247"><img alt="IMG_0247" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295197314_d7b8213aa6_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>用餐的過程很愉快,主廚挺風趣的,料理中不時會擺出帥氣的姿勢讓大家拍照,用餐時與大家聊天,還展示他收藏的各國鈔票。話說,主廚他也知道新台幣有2000元面額的紙鈔,我才剛收到一張,但沒帶出國,不知道這些年過去,他收藏到了沒。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53293943727/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_20200222_125016"><img alt="IMG_20200222_125016" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53293943727_d92180174c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>品嘗神戶牛後,再次拿出<a href="https://www.surutto.com/tickets/kansai_thru_hantaiji.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">關西周遊卡</a>,來去有馬溫泉泡個湯。前去有馬溫泉的方式有兩種,一種是鐵道,車程時間短,但要換車;另一種是巴士,車程時間約50分鐘,不用換車。兩者都可以使用關西周遊卡,我們選了班次比較多的前者。</div><div><br /></div><div>走入神戶市營地下鐵的三宮駅,從三宮駅到有馬溫泉駅,這一路需要轉乘兩次。三宮至新神戶是屬於神戶市營地下鐵西神.山手線,新神戶至谷上的路段是北神急行電鐵,這兩段路線是直通運轉,不用換車。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53294823336/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0249"><img alt="IMG_0249" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53294823336_d4108ee525_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>到了谷上駅,就要換車,不過也是同月台轉乘,到對面換搭神戶電鐵的有馬・三田線,然後搭到有馬口,再轉乘一次。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53293947902/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0252"><img alt="IMG_0252" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53293947902_312308edc5_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295294775/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0253"><img alt="IMG_0253" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295294775_1911ceb15a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53294823316/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0254"><img alt="IMG_0254" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53294823316_8090dc332d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>在有馬口駅要到對面的月台換搭神戶電鐵有馬線,下一站就是有馬溫泉駅。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295074503/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0255"><img alt="IMG_0255" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295074503_a15729e9ca_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53294823241/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0256"><img alt="IMG_0256" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53294823241_acd71ab52c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53293947727/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0257"><img alt="IMG_0257" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53293947727_af4a59297c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53293947712/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0259"><img alt="IMG_0259" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53293947712_6cd0540b8e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>3分鐘的車程,就站在列車駕駛後面,用享受遊戲電車でGO!的視角。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295202154/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0260"><img alt="IMG_0260" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295202154_3b8d640eb2_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53294822956/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0261"><img alt="IMG_0261" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53294822956_7750bbd28b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295202094/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0264"><img alt="IMG_0264" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295202094_9c69ab63c8_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>快進站了,位置被同行另外2人卡走了><</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295074238/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0267"><img alt="IMG_0267" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295074238_00aaafcd28_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295202074/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0268"><img alt="IMG_0268" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295202074_5f4158136a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295201964/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0269"><img alt="IMG_0269" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295201964_ddc522de8f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>有馬溫泉駅是有馬線的終點站,昭和3年(1928年)有馬線開業時就設站,最初名稱為電鐵有馬,隔年改名為有馬溫泉。</div><div><br /></div><div>除了箱根湯本之外,與先前去過的溫泉地一樣,月台上的燈箱很有歷史歲月感,就跟一路載我們來的神戶電器鐵道1000系電車的デ1300形與1500形一樣,是80與90年代的列車了。列車放完人就開回有馬口,有趣的是,有馬線的起終點是湊川駅與有馬溫泉駅,大多都是從湊川經有馬口直通運行三田線,只有少之又少的列車會直接從湊川一路開進有馬溫泉。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295074138/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0272"><img alt="IMG_0272" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295074138_e8f5ddc121_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295201919/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0273"><img alt="IMG_0273" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295201919_4fb1bb07bd_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>從三宮出發,30分鐘後來到有馬溫泉,這個號稱「關西的奧座敷」的地方。座敷是指鋪設禢禢米的房間,表座敷通常是接待客人的前廳,相對應的奧是指深處,奧座敷便是起居的房間,所以「關西的奧座敷」就很像台語的走灶咖一樣。</div><div><br /></div><div>有馬溫泉是日本三古湯之一,從神話時代就存在的古湯。在日本流傳最早的正史《日本書紀》及記載民俗與地方誌的《風土記》之中,三古湯有愛媛的道後溫泉、兵庫的有馬溫泉、和歌山的白濱溫泉。而在記載全國神社的《延喜式神名帳》中,三古泉是道後溫泉、有馬溫泉,還有福島的磐城湯本溫泉。這趟我們先來有馬溫泉,後面還會去道後溫泉,感受一下神話中溫泉的威力。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295201904/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0274"><img alt="IMG_0274" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295201904_ff2427509c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>這裡在律令制時代以溫泉取名,是攝津國有馬郡,最初「有馬」兩字寫作「有間」,意為群山環繞,在六甲山地北側的紅葉谷山麓,在山與山之間。在《釋日本紀》的攝津國風土記中說到,有馬郡有座鹽之原山,這座山附件有座鹽之湯。文中的鹽之原山是古稱湯山的愛宕山,鹽之湯就是有馬溫泉。</div><div><br /></div><div>日本神話相傳,別稱大已貴命的大國主神,以及醫藥、溫泉之神的少彥名命,兩位神名在找尋藥草周遊列國時,看到三隻受傷的烏鴉,浸泡在一池紅色水窪內,數日後看到烏鴉的傷口全癒,祂們都覺得不可思議,調查後發現水漥其實是有療效的溫泉,這就是有馬溫泉被發現的起源,烏鴉與大已貴命與少彥名命就成了有馬的守護神。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295073998/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0275"><img alt="IMG_0275" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295073998_bfd37dbbe7_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>從車站前沿著有馬川,接上太閣通,這段路在古時候是有馬街道的一部分。有馬街道是一條從大阪及神戶通往有馬溫泉的道路,主要可以分成四條路線,最古老的一條是從大阪難波宮出發,經過伊丹、寶塚、西宮,也稱湯山街道,是天皇、貴族、武家往來有馬的路線。另外兩條分別從深江及住吉出發,直接翻上六甲山的一軒茶屋,在下切有馬,稱為魚屋道及住吉道。第四條從平野出發,經過天王谷、有馬口,到三田,比較接近我們搭鐵道的路線。</div><div><br /></div><div>不到10分鐘的路程就會看到湯本坂旁邊的<a href="https://arimaspa-kingin.jp/index.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">金之湯(金の湯)</a>,據說三隻烏鴉浸泡的紅色水窪,就是金之湯的金泉,門外還立著日本第一神靈泉的石碑。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295294135/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0276"><img alt="IMG_0276" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295294135_7944d405e3_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295298125/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0291"><img alt="IMG_0291" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295298125_df17a0c25e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>街道上人來人往,沒什麼遊客掀開金之湯門口的布簾,還以為沒什麼人光顧,結果屋內人潮滿滿。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295201644/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0278"><img alt="IMG_0278" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295201644_3719e04a1e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>玄關旁就是入浴券的販賣機,金之湯的票價是成人650円,我們金銀都要泡,直接按下2館入浴券,金之湯加銀之湯只要850円。原本是想在明天跑步前泡湯鬆弛一下,現在路跑取消了,就是單純泡心情愉快的。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295073838/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0279"><img alt="IMG_0279" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295073838_34618c20b5_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295293905/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0282"><img alt="IMG_0282" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295293905_87c1136a8f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>一樓主要是受付櫃台與休息處,人非常多,可以坐的地方都坐滿了,不能坐的地方也是不停有人走動。趕緊找了置物櫃,東西塞一塞,趕緊去泡湯,但置物櫃都挺小格的,我們的大背包只能拆包後分塞兩格。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295201614/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0284"><img alt="IMG_0284" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295201614_6e93855629_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53293946827/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0280"><img alt="IMG_0280" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53293946827_0ae892f5a7_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>溫泉池在二樓,男湯是一の湯,女湯是二のゆ,裡面理所當然不能拍攝。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295201444/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0286"><img alt="IMG_0286" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295201444_1bc4ac1b34_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295293890/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0287"><img alt="IMG_0287" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295293890_c2fd21bc6c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295202539/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0288"><img alt="IMG_0288" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295202539_34e51f63a4_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><div>男湯的浴池不太大,加上人多,滿滿的,就像下水餃一樣,泡湯的氛圍不太對,整體品質下降不少,但也不好太過要求,畢竟金之湯是公共浴池,本來就會比較多人一些。</div><div><br /></div><div>溫泉泉質挺讓人驚豔的,濁濁的土黃色,像是濃郁的味噌湯,名符其實的金泉。這是因為含有大量鐵成分的食鹽泉(鹽化物泉),湧出後與空氣接觸氧化,便從透明轉為茶褐色,也稱赤湯。</div></div><div><div><br /></div><div>金之湯極為獨特,從古至今不少名人來泡過,牆上列舉著從大和飛鳥時代到昭和時代的天皇、幕府、公卿、大名等歷史上耳熟能詳的名字,而最後一行的"現代",寫著あなた,不禁會心一笑。</div></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295298140/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0289_1"><img alt="IMG_0289_1" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295298140_49c6465f58_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>金之湯館外有設置足湯區,可以免費泡腳。不想更衣沐浴,只想暖暖腳的人,可以選擇,但足湯也很熱門,一有空位,馬上就有人補上。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53293950417/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0322"><img alt="IMG_0322" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53293950417_1bcb98e0c0_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>接下來往溫泉寺的方向走去,或許因為商店街都在外面的關係,往內的人就少了非常多。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53294826486/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0292"><img alt="IMG_0292" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53294826486_2baee744d4_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>除了神話之外,前面提到記載日本三古湯的《日本書紀》及《釋日本紀》,在第34代天皇舒明天皇及第36代天皇孝德天皇的篇章中,就有記載他們行幸到攝津國,順道走訪有間溫湯宮(有間是有馬的古名),在此待了80多天,享受沐浴泡湯之樂,建造有馬行宮,供奉稻荷大神為守護神,成了現在的有馬稻荷神社。</div><div><br /></div><div>但自從舒明天皇及孝德天皇之後,歷史文獻中就再也沒有天皇來訪,有馬溫泉也就隱沒在歷史長河之中。直到奈良時代的佛教僧人 - 行基的出現,才有所改變。</div><div><br /></div><div>傳說日本許多處溫泉都是由行基發現,有馬溫泉的開湯、溫泉寺的創建就與行基有關。行基是奈良時代的佛教僧人,是日本第一位接受大僧正僧位的高僧,他是道昭的徒弟,而道昭是唐朝三藏法師玄奘的直傳弟子。</div><div><div><br /></div></div><div>走上参詣道的階梯,就是溫泉寺了。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295206084/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0295"><img alt="IMG_0295" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295206084_ac9a704d6d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295298035/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0294"><img alt="IMG_0294" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295298035_e73e6234b6_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><div>據傳,行基再前往有馬的途中,遇見一位倒在路上的病人,病人說他想去有馬泡溫泉治病,但沒有錢買食物,而且只能吃新鮮的魚,於是行基去到現今尼崎市的長洲才買到新鮮的魚,帶回餵食病人。吃完魚的病人又說,我的皮膚痛的不得了,請您同情我,舔舐我的皮膚,於是行基也照做了。結果,病人的身體發出光芒,變成了藥師如來。</div><div><br /></div><div>藥師如來對行基說,我是來自溫泉山的藥師如來,你的慈悲之心讓我深深感動,你就去有馬吧,去幫助那邊生病的人們,我也會一起幫忙的。語畢,藥師如來就消失了。</div><div><br /></div><div>神龜元年(724年),行基到了有馬後,便設立的溫泉寺、菩提院,山號有馬山,本尊為藥師如來,正式名稱為有馬山溫泉禪寺,藉以撫慰與鼓勵病人,也開始帶動這裡的發展。</div></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53293951192/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0296"><img alt="IMG_0296" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53293951192_e82ae648f1_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53294826356/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0298"><img alt="IMG_0298" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53294826356_fa5fbe55e9_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>御祖師庵緊鄰在溫泉寺本殿旁邊,裡面供奉行基與仁西的銅像。行基帶動了有馬的發展與繁榮,仁西被視為復興有馬的偉大人物,還有一位則是豐臣秀吉,這三位稱為「有馬的三恩人」。</div><div><br /></div><div>承德元年(1097年),連日暴雨襲擊,山坡塌陷,山谷掩埋,泉水被土沙覆蓋,溫泉不再湧出,有馬的輝煌也隨之覆滅。過了將近百年,建久2年(1191年)的某日,熊野權現出現在吉野山僧人 - 仁西的床邊說道:在津之國有馬的山中溫泉在洪水肆虐後一片荒蕪,汝,前去復興該地吧。</div><div><br /></div><div>於是,仁西起身前往有馬,在蜘蛛的指引下,渡過河流,跨過山口。就在快要越過六甲山時,蜘蛛消失了,正當仁西不知所措時,一位白鬚老人現身,向東方丟下一片樹葉,說道,這片葉子落下的地方,水將再次沸騰。說完,老人就消失了,仁西下山找到落葉,接著挖鑿個洞,金色溫泉從洞中湧出,有馬溫泉再現於世人眼前。</div><div><br /></div><div>為了振興有馬,仁西從吉野招集平家殘存的12名落武者,在有馬開設12間宿坊,並以藥師十二藥叉大將命名,成為為歷史上有名的有馬十二坊。</div><div><br /></div><div>溫泉寺右側路徑,鳥居上的匾額寫著溫泉守護神,這是通往後方的湯泉神社,主祭神就是神話中發現有馬溫泉的大已貴命與少彥名命,另外還有熊野久須毘命。因為天氣冷冷的,有點懶惰,只想趕快去泡湯,就懶得走過去了。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295297915/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0299"><img alt="IMG_0299" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295297915_de44be9e8e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div>
<div>行基的銅像就設立在ねがい坂的念佛寺前方,附近也有烏鴉的銅像。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295297855/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0300"><img alt="IMG_0300" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295297855_ed5df3c5dc_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295297820/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0301"><img alt="IMG_0301" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295297820_8b3ae51d56_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>對現代人來說,泡溫泉是一種享受,讓自己從忙碌的生活中放鬆,活絡氣血,讓自己精神煥發的一種休閒,可以搭配娛樂與饗宴,也附帶療養效果。然而,對於中世紀的人們而言,溫泉或許是他們治癒病痛的最後希望。</div><div><br /></div><div>有馬溫泉在鎌倉時代初期復興,但此後,有馬的設施和交通路線變得更加擁擠。由於醫療還不發達,許多人認為有馬溫泉是他們最後的希望,許多人在有馬結束了生命。在《平家物語》中登場的慈心房尊惠提到,有馬是閻魔王宮的東之門,也就是說,有馬溫泉被視為生與死的交界,寺廟就成了這些人的祈禱與哀悼之處。</div><div><br /></div><div>念佛寺或許就是作為這樣一個撫慰人心的場所而存在。</div><div><br /></div><div>念佛寺,山號攝取山,本尊為阿彌陀如來,西方極樂淨土的教主,享德5年(1532年)由岌譽僧人開山創建。原本的念佛寺位在谷之町,慶長年間移建到現在這位置,這位置是將北政所,也就是豐臣秀吉的正室 - 寧寧的別邸舊址,是一處風景優美的高地,但在元祿16年(1703年)的有馬大火中燒毀。現在所見的本堂,是江戶時代中期,正德2年(1712年)所重建,是目前有馬溫泉地區最古老的建築。</div><div><br /></div><div>念佛寺內的庭園,有一株超過300年的沙羅樹,初夏之際,會開出淨白的椿花,花朵優雅曼妙地落在鮮綠苔上,成為最具禪意的一幅畫。相傳釋迦牟尼入涅槃時,娑羅樹同時開花,林中一時變白哀弔,因此沙羅樹與佛教有著深厚淵源。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295077548/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0303"><img alt="IMG_0303" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295077548_cba2b602c9_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>念佛寺可以入內參觀,但我們僅在外頭瞧瞧,除了御朱印外,迴廊上有一頭白象,應該是要用來代表釋迦牟尼,因為釋迦牟尼未成佛前,以菩薩身修行的某一世,是一頭六牙白象王。</div><div><br /></div><div>樹下的告示板上寫著「限りなく 透明に凜として 生きる 初女」。</div><div>查了一下,是佐藤初女所寫的一本書名,大意為「春 いのち受け容れるとき;夏 いのち生い立つとき;秋 いのち響きあうとき;冬 いのち透きとおるとき。」,意為春天接納生命來臨之時;夏天生命蓬勃發展之時;秋天生命共鳴回響之時;冬天生命一切通透之時。<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295077553/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0305"><img alt="IMG_0305" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295077553_45c0675560_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53294826076/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0306"><img alt="IMG_0306" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53294826076_faf124dff6_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295077408/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0308"><img alt="IMG_0308" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295077408_e4abd5d77f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><div>銀之湯就在念佛寺不遠處,路邊出現單獨擺放的鬼瓦,上面立牌寫著有馬溫泉寺田町界隈一開始以為是某戶人家的擺飾,接著出現第二個、第三個,每一個鬼瓦臉孔都不太一樣,那就表示有什麼特別之處了。</div><div><div><div><br /></div></div><div>據說,有馬溫泉寺田町界隈的想法與念佛寺有關。剛剛在念佛寺抬頭看見的屋頂鬼瓦,平成7年(1995年)的阪神大地震之時,被震了下來,因此有所啟發。</div><div><br /></div><div>這些鬼瓦在傳統建築屋頂很常見,原本是放在屋脊邊框,用來除惡避邪。銀之湯的所在地就在寺田町,自古有許多佛寺與神社聚集於此,隨著時間推移,有馬溫泉的街景面貌有了改變,所以在町內各處放置鬼瓦,形成一個聖域,也讓人們在這裡能更安心的漫步,在心靈獲得平靜後,更有勇氣面對接下來的生活。</div></div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295077658/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0302"><img alt="IMG_0302" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295077658_0e7ae2fec8_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295205744/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0309"><img alt="IMG_0309" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295205744_d6804e8f91_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295297570/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0311"><img alt="IMG_0311" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295297570_ed93351b14_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a href="https://arimaspa-kingin.jp/index.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">銀之湯(銀の湯)</a>不像金之湯那般熱門,門外的街頭幾乎沒什麼人潮,畢竟金之湯可有著神話與諸多名人的加持。正這樣想時,拉開門,原來屋內已經聚集了一些慕湯而來的人們。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295205494/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0315"><img alt="IMG_0315" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295205494_288442ec75_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><div>一般認知的溫泉,是地層中的水受到火山地形的地熱影響,高度加溫後形成。有馬溫泉最特別的地方在於,溫泉並非受到火山影響,而是600萬年前的古老海洋水受到海底板塊運動而沉積在地層中,經年累月受熱形成的泉脈,再次歷經板塊推擠的壓力,從深度60公里的地底湧出,並且形成多種泉質。</div><div><br /></div><div>除了鹽份濃度居日本之冠的金泉外,有馬溫泉擁有多種泉質,由於明治時代之前的挖掘技術有限,之後又挖掘出新的銀泉、御所、天神、妬、極樂、有明等新泉源。接者要去的銀之湯就是銀泉,屬於碳酸氫鹽泉(炭酸水素塩泉),也與金泉一樣,同屬療養泉。</div></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53293950712/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0313"><img alt="IMG_0313" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53293950712_ed6cc0e880_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><div>銀之湯與金之湯相同,都是被稱為外湯的公共浴場。有馬溫泉總共有三座外湯,除了金之湯、銀之湯,有一座<a href="https://www.taikounoyu.com/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">太閤の湯</a>,規模大許多,價格也相對高很多。</div></div><div><br /></div><div>銀之湯有兩種泉質,碳酸氫鹽泉與鐳泉(ラジウム泉),浴池也是小小的,因為人沒那麼多,整體空間感覺起來輕鬆多了。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295077303/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0316"><img alt="IMG_0316" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295077303_ddcd6599cb_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>在休息處喝完咖啡牛奶後,再享用一瓶有馬麥酒,暖暖的身體,透清涼的脾胃。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295207434/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_20200222_160131"><img alt="IMG_20200222_160131" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295207434_87bcbc9f2b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div>銀之湯斜對面有間mont-bell,順道逛一逛之外,店家的門柱上還有個值得玩味之處。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295297210/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0318"><img alt="IMG_0318" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295297210_9fb7f2f374_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>門柱上除了有界隈的鬼瓦,還有一張江戶時代的溫泉番付,也就是將溫泉比擬為相撲力士,番付就是列出本場所出賽力士的排名。場所當然就是日本,右邊代表東日本,左邊代表西日本,最高位是大關。當時雖然已經有橫綱的稱號,但要到明治23年(1890年)才開始出現在番付之中。</div><div><br /></div><div>西日本最高位的大關,便是有馬溫泉,過幾天要去的道後,則是小結。而東日本的大關是草津,希望日後能排個時間充裕的行程,去草津體驗體驗。作為裁判的行司,其中伊香保溫泉也是想去的清單之一。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295205474/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0317"><img alt="IMG_0317" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295205474_a38e33b340_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><div>前面提了有馬溫泉充滿神話與傳說的部分,接著來到鎌倉後期到室町較為動亂的時期。在仁西復興有馬後,過了三百多年泰平的日子,享禄元年(1528年)的大火,把有馬燒成焦土。</div><div><br /></div><div>有馬的領主是攝津有馬氏,是赤松氏的分家,以地名改姓,是足利將軍的近習。善福寺後方的落葉山,據說是有馬氏與三好政長在山上築起落葉山城,也稱有馬城,當時以落葉山城為居成的三好政長打算向丹波及播磨等地進軍,以擴張攝津國勢力。三木城的別所氏得知此事,進攻落葉山城,爆發湯山合戰,逼退三好政長,有馬溫泉遭到戰火破壞不堪。</div><div><br /></div><div>接著,有馬氏的有馬村秀入駐落葉山城,隨著室町幕府與地方勢力的衝突,京畿地區被三好長慶所控制,有馬氏便成為三好政權下的國眾。之後,織田信長勢力崛起,滅了有馬氏,改由荒木村重支配有馬地區。</div><div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53294825681/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0320"><img alt="IMG_0320" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53294825681_2e5647bf4b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295077168/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0323"><img alt="IMG_0323" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295077168_654788b4a6_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /></div></div><div><br /></div><div>此時,攝津國與播磨國成了織田與毛利兩大霸權爭鬥之處,當時還叫羽柴的秀吉,也在這戰亂的舞台登場。天正5年(1577年),織田信長派任羽柴秀吉為大將,率黑田官兵衛與竹中半兵衛進行中國征伐,進攻西播磨的毛利一方,沒想到隔年三木城的別所長治背叛織田信長,羽柴秀吉前往討伐,爆發三木合戰。</div><div><br /></div><div>合戰中,攝津國的荒木村重也謀反,再加上毛利軍對的兵糧輸送,讓羽柴秀吉採斷糧戰術,封鎖通往三木的主要道路 - 有馬街道。最後,三木城在籠城2年後,別所長治意識到毫無勝算,下定決心以城主一族的性命作為條件,換取家臣及領民的性命,開城投降。羽柴秀吉接受詳書,接收三木城後,宣佈赦免城中殘餘兵將,並向四散的領民發佈歸屬的通告,以示德政。</div><div><br /></div><div>就在荒木村重反叛後,織田信長親自前往攝津討伐。羽柴秀吉預測織田信長會停留很長一段時間,決定在湯山(有馬溫泉)招待信長,並下令修築通往有馬的山口莊道路。雖然織田信長最後沒有前往湯山,但這是有馬溫泉與羽柴秀吉有關連的最初記錄。</div><div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295205219/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0324"><img alt="IMG_0324" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295205219_73c3c0bef4_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295077058/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0325"><img alt="IMG_0325" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295077058_028788b4a2_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /></div></div><div><br /></div><div>此時有馬實際上已經在羽柴秀吉的勢力之下,漫畫《戰國》系列中深受羽柴秀吉信賴的主角 - 仙石秀久,被任命為湯山奉行,將有馬溫泉作為療養傷兵的據點。</div><div><br /></div><div>羽柴秀吉第一次在有馬沐浴泡湯,有一說是在三木合戰結束後的天正8年(1580年),相傳羽柴秀吉疲憊不堪,睡了兩天兩夜,但卻乏史料佐證,僅能當作逸聞。真正有文獻史料是在天正11年(1583年),那時經過本能寺之變與山崎之戰,羽柴秀吉已經站上爭奪織田家權力的鋒頭,在賤岳之戰擊敗柴田勝家後,便在有馬修身療養數日。</div><div><br /></div><div>有個傳聞,在三木合戰結束與爆發賤岳之戰前的期間,羽柴秀吉曾邀請淨土真宗本願寺的顯如到有馬作客,將政治與有馬溫泉劃上關連。顯如因為火燒比叡山及虐殺高聖山僧侶的事件,與織田信長敵對,荒木村重的叛變,據說就是顯如的計謀。</div><div><br /></div><div>之後,羽柴秀吉歷經小牧・長久手之戰,任職關白,受天皇賜姓,改名豐臣秀吉,征伐九州,到統一日本,甚至與茶茶的愛子 - 鶴松夭折,秀賴誕生,都多次來訪有馬溫泉,可說是悲喜百感都與有馬溫泉密不可分。</div><div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295205104/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0326"><img alt="IMG_0326" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295205104_8c22a1b612_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295297020/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0327"><img alt="IMG_0327" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295297020_13858dddcb_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295076903/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0328"><img alt="IMG_0328" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295076903_72acc7dd16_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /></div></div><div><br /></div><div><div>文祿5年(1596年)發生慶長伏見大地震,新建沒多久的御殿就嚴重損壞,泉水溫度大幅上升,熱到無法入浴,使得疾病纏身的豐臣秀吉無法泡湯療養。於是慶長2年(1597年)下令,大規模整修重建有馬,並且在溫泉寺奧之院新湧出的溫泉處,強制拆除65軒的家屋,蓋了新的湯山御殿。</div><div><br /></div><div>湯山湯殿相當宏偉,有岩盤浴及蒸氣浴,完工後,豐臣秀吉原本計畫前往入浴,卻因為風雨而推延,不久後便倒臥在床而死去,新湧出的泉源也很快就乾涸了。平成7年(1995年)的阪神大地震,溫泉寺後方的極樂寺受到損傷,這才在下方發現湯山御殿的遺跡,成立太閣之湯殿館(太閤の湯殿館)展示。</div><div><br /></div><div>有馬溫泉在江戶時代發展繁榮,慶長伏見大地震劇升的水溫,也無法阻止人們泡湯入浴的慾望,因而發明出將泡了冷水的手拭巾放在頭頂再入浴的「枕水」,以及把熱水從高處往肩膀或背上淋的「打湯」等方式,繼續享受溫泉。</div></div><div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295296960/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0329"><img alt="IMG_0329" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295296960_08bcf94632_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295204984/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0330"><img alt="IMG_0330" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295204984_b6082cffc7_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /></div></div><div><br /></div><div><div>約莫過了100年後,水溫才又慢慢降到適宜的溫度。但是這一降,不僅溫度過低,且溫泉湧出量減少,造成難以入浴。直到大阪的醫學家 - 柘植龍洲指出原因,須對源頭進行疏浚、防止地下水滲漏出等等,才有所改善。</div></div><div><br /></div><div>我們這一路走來,到處都有豐臣秀吉的影子。雖然到了江戶時代,德川幕府試圖鏟除豐臣的勢力,湯山湯殿還沒啟用就被拆除,在遺址上築起與德川關係匪淺的淨土宗的極樂寺與念佛寺。但豐臣秀吉對於泉源及河川的整治,卻還是無法完全掩蓋,反倒成了江戶時期有馬溫泉發展的基礎。</div></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53293951397/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0331"><img alt="IMG_0331" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53293951397_1d933bda58_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53293955647/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0333"><img alt="IMG_0333" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53293955647_5254df3fa7_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>走回有馬溫泉駅才突然想到,忘了買份這裡的名產 - 炭酸煎餅來嚐嚐。</div><div><br /></div><div>炭酸煎餅最初適用民眾認為的「毒水」所製作,也就是碳酸氫鹽泉。古時因為泉水周遭有許多鳥禽昆蟲吸入地底噴出的瓦斯而死亡,民眾誤以為是碳酸泉水有毒所致,直到接受西化的明治時期,發現碳酸泉水富有礦物質,才平反汙名。離金之湯不遠的三津森本舖,就是以販售炭酸煎餅起家,可說是日本最早的健康食品之一。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295210234/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0334"><img alt="IMG_0334" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295210234_e282f9d80e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295082253/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0336"><img alt="IMG_0336" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295082253_ac29dbfb33_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>回程也是轉乘兩次,從有馬溫泉到有馬口,一樣是馬口到谷上,谷上再回到三宮。</div><div><br /></div><div>接著來去姬路,從神戶市營地下鐵的三宮駅,走地下通路去阪神電鐵的神戶三宮駅搭車。這兩者之間還個JR西日本的三ノ宮駅,以及名字一樣的阪急電鐵的神戸三宮駅,只能緊盯天花板的指示牌,以免走錯地方。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53294830721/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0338"><img alt="IMG_0338" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53294830721_2181ae14f3_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295302220/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0341"><img alt="IMG_0341" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295302220_9a9848fc03_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>去姬路有三種選擇,車程最快的是JR西日本的新幹線,次之是在來線,車程較久的山陽電鐵。而山陽電與阪神電鐵直通運行,中途不用轉乘。既然都買了關西周遊卡,山陽電鐵也在適用範圍,就繼續拿出來使用。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295082053/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0342"><img alt="IMG_0342" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295082053_6220ab394c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295302260/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0340"><img alt="IMG_0340" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295302260_6baeafae3f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>搭上阪神5001形電車,站站停的普通車,一路慢慢晃過去。從神戸三宮駅(阪神)出發後,到下一站 - 元町都屬於阪神本線,元町到西代是神戶高速線。</div><div><br /></div><div>由於神戶高速線屬於第三種鐵道事業者,蓋路線給第二種鐵道事業者營運,所以除了阪神電鐵外,阪急電鐵及神戶電鐵都有在跑神戶高速線,一整個就是複雜。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295210069/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0344"><img alt="IMG_0344" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295210069_af5638e431_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>山陽電鐵只有兩條路線,從西代之後,經過飾磨轉到姬路,就是屬於本線。另一條則是從飾磨到網干的網干線。本線從須磨到明石之間的路段,幾乎與JR西日本併行,車站不是共用就是很靠近。</div><div><br /></div><div>在那些共用的車站上,能夠直接看到JR西日本的月台,人潮很明顯有落差。雖然JR西日本的時刻比較好,車程比較短,但自己內心有時還是偏好搭乘這些地方經營的鐵道公司,畢竟經營不易,不趕時間的時候,還是來支持一下。</div><div><br /></div><div>在山陽明石駅停靠時,對面列車車門旁的線條圖案,是山陽電鐵的企業標誌,是平成19年(2007年)紀念創業100週年所設計,五條紅線代表集團五個業務領域,縱橫斜分別代表感謝、信賴與挑戰。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295302195/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0350_1"><img alt="IMG_0350_1" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295302195_55cfb6e9e6_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>一路經過舞子公園駅及山陽明石駅,本來下午要來這兩站,看看明石大橋,也順便吃明石燒,得知姬路馬取消後,就改成明天再來吧。</div><div><br /></div><div>晚上6點半,抵達山陽姫路駅,天色已黑,也沒有雨了。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295302185/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0351"><img alt="IMG_0351" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295302185_5926372a28_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295210019/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0355"><img alt="IMG_0355" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295210019_7eefb6b0aa_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53294830581/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0357"><img alt="IMG_0357" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53294830581_fa8f1dccc7_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>山陽姬路駅是本線的終點站,擁有4面4線頭端式月台的高架式車站,初代車站是大正12年(1923年)開業,後來遷移到此處,並在昭和29年(1954年)從1樓改成2樓高架化,然後就一直到了現在,因此看上去頗為儉樸,也頗有年代感。月台與一旁山陽百貨店的2樓相連,山陽百貨也很有年份,於昭和27年(1952年)開業,算是阿公等級了。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295209949/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0360"><img alt="IMG_0360" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295209949_32db2f7b9e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295209944/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0361"><img alt="IMG_0361" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295209944_b550c044e1_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>百貨剩不到一小時就要打烊,就不逛了。直接下樓,一到大手前通り,就看到醒目的「世界遺產姬路城馬拉松2020大會中止」大型立牌。雖然這早就是既定的事實,但內心不免有些遺憾,要是沒有發生Covid-19就好了!</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53293955362/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0365"><img alt="IMG_0365" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53293955362_cbd6e226af_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>大手前通り的盡頭,就是美麗的姬路城,在黑夜中相當耀眼。不論從山陽姫路駅或JR姬路駅,都能一眼望見,做為日本第一名城,這樣的登場方式,相當華麗。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53294830786/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0385"><img alt="IMG_0385" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53294830786_9b0da942c9_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>轉入二階町商店街,這裡是昔日江戶時代的西國街道,別稱山陽道,只要是往返京都到下關,甚至到九州的太宰府的旅人或大名行列,都會經過這條東西向的道路。大手前通り另一側的二階町商店街,也是西國街道的延伸。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295081838/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0367"><img alt="IMG_0367" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295081838_67c0d7fd42_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295209584/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0379"><img alt="IMG_0379" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295209584_0d6d82a253_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>商店街大多都打烊了,就剩連鎖咖啡店與超市還亮著燈,好在還有一間拉麵店 - <a href="https://www.facebook.com/himejimenntetsu" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">姬路麵哲</a>。店內有提供中文菜單,翻了一下,還是比較習慣原本日文菜單的用詞。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53293955047/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0380"><img alt="IMG_0380" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53293955047_ab03f0d259_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>沾麵是這間店的主打,在菜單中的順位比拉麵還前面,當然毫不猶豫的點了沾麵。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295081528/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0382"><img alt="IMG_0382" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295081528_410236a2bf_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>最後再去超市補給一下,買些小零食,一會在房間慢慢吃。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53293955752/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0386"><img alt="IMG_0386" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53293955752_5836695e39_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53372434100/in/album-72177720313099255/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53372434100_f1537feb7a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>今晚就住在商店街內的民宿 - <a href="https://www.kimononoyakata.jp/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">侘びすけ(着物の小宿 うたかた)</a>,這是一間販售和服的店家,也有提供和服租借,可以穿去姬路城拍照。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537237608/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1215"><img alt="IMG_1215" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537237608_54ff6fec1f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53293955192/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0371"><img alt="IMG_0371" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53293955192_ee0a2cd716_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>店家門口旁的另一道門,打開後便是通往2樓的階梯,2樓是傳統的老屋民宅,狹長型的格局,中間是共用的設施,不過時間晚了,就直接來到尾端的房間。尾端還有個階梯通往1樓,共用的衛浴就在1樓的尾端。</div><div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537373979/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1210"><img alt="IMG_1210" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537373979_8f483e7295_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /></div></div><div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53537236783/in/album-72177720314870117/" title="IMG_1209"><img alt="IMG_1209" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537236783_d978917cab_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53295209654/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0376"><img alt="IMG_0376" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53295209654_c72abb8e40_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53293955172/in/album-72177720312299793/" title="IMG_0377"><img alt="IMG_0377" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53293955172_1b01a372f5_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div>由於僅有兩間房間,房間也不會混住,一天只接待兩組顧客,所以不會有複雜的閒雜人等出入,環境也很寧靜。只是老屋內有點冷,趕緊打開暖爐,烘暖房間好入睡。</div><div><br /></div><div>2020.02</div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2023/10/day-1.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #ffe599;" target="_blank">日本山陽行 + 貓島第三彈 Day 1:神戶動物王國.北野坂異人館街.神戸クアハウス溫泉膠囊旅館</a></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2024/01/day-3-1.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #ffe599;" target="_blank">日本山陽行 + 貓島第三彈 Day 3-1:姬路城 日遊&夜遊</a></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2024/02/day-3-2.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #ffe599;" target="_blank">日本山陽行 + 貓島第三彈 Day 3-2:明石城.明石雞蛋燒.舞子公園.明石海峽大橋</a></div><div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2024/02/day-3-2.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #ffe599;" target="_blank">日本山陽行 + 貓島第三彈 Day 3-2:明石城.明石雞蛋燒.舞子公園.明石海峽大橋</a></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2024/02/day-4-1.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #ffe599;" target="_blank">日本山陽行 + 貓島第三彈 Day 4-1:姬路城好古園.活水軒穴子魚套餐</a></div></div>
Laxichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04802970745091107114noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37782309.post-58463616475071646342023-10-29T19:22:00.009+08:002024-02-25T02:09:19.108+08:00日本山陽行 + 貓島第三彈 Day 1:神戶動物王國.北野坂異人館街.神戸クアハウス溫泉膠囊旅館<div>前一年的7月,報名且中籤隔年2月底的"世界遺産姫路城馬拉松",開始著手規劃一趟8天的旅程。行程前半當然是姬路,接著移動到四國松山,來要去頗難抵達的青島,用以鐵腿的雙腳跟貓玩,最後移動到九州福岡搭機。2月4日,收到來自大會的跑者交換券通知信,一切準備就緒,就等出發日期到來。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127277119/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_20200221_102105"><img alt="IMG_20200221_102105" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127277119_3a4106c6a0_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /></div><span><a name='more'></a></span><div><br /></div><div>2月4日這一天也是鑽石公主號開始滯留橫濱港的日子,在這之前的一個多月前,新聞開始爆出中國武漢疑似會人傳人的肺炎傳染病,但其實疫情還更早一個就發生了,之後武漢封城,試圖抑制疫情擴散。</div><div><br /></div><div>那時在電視機前面看著封城的荒謬新聞,只覺得發生在對岸也沒什麼好意外的,況且又遠在內陸地區,八杆子打不著,但隨著1月底農曆新年連假到來,傳統返鄉節日,台商返台,情況漸漸轉變,接下來的3年多,全世界沒人能將新冠肺炎Covid-19這件事置身事外。</div><div><br /></div><div><div><div>新聞每日放送鑽石公主號的乘客下不了船的消息時,關東地區的確診人數開始浮現,台灣滴水不漏地嚴防,僅有個位數的零星確診,馬照跑,舞照跳,此時大家還比較關切確診者足跡地圖上的美食有哪些。</div><div><br /></div><div>2月19日,出發日的前2天,賽事前4天,收到大會取消舉辦的正式通知信,不過在收到信的前幾天,我們就已經在FB得知大會將要停辦,經過幾番天人交戰與討論後,畢竟關西與九州都沒有疫情,再來也懶得一一取消預訂,還是決定飛出去。</div></div><div>(出發前也被公司主管交代要多小心,規劃已久的行程也不好直接要我取消,要我回國後在家工作7天後,再進辦公室。)</div></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127465220/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9739"><img alt="IMG_9739" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127465220_f81edbbfe3_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><div>飛抵關西國際機場之後,觀察一下周遭,多數人是沒有戴著口罩,所以我們也打算人多的地方或交通工具上才戴口罩,人煙稀少處就大口自由的呼吸。</div><div><br /></div><div>接連幾天觀察下來,不論大大小小的機關行號,所有會面對面接觸的窗口的工作人員,都會戴著口罩,而且出入口都有消毒酒精,其實日本的防疫也沒台灣新聞報導的那麼糟,都是炒新聞話題罷了。</div></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127268804/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9740"><img alt="IMG_9740" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127268804_ab9849b4fb_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>在第一航廈內買了張500円的<a href="https://www.kobe-access.jp/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">海上高速船(Bay Shuttle)</a>船票,來到12號站牌,搭上接駁巴士,前往關西國際空港棧橋。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127465140/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9741"><img alt="IMG_9741" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127465140_ca34819ba8_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127268719/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9743"><img alt="IMG_9743" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127268719_5182c55f52_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /></div><br />
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127268729/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9744"><img alt="IMG_9744" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127268729_c2da133076_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53126466937/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9747"><img alt="IMG_9747" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53126466937_f997a1e15d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>不知道是否疫情的關係,大部分的人都減少移動,機場航廈內的旅客少之又少,排隊搭船的乘客也就更少了。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127540528/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9748"><img alt="IMG_9748" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127540528_43c121b8bf_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127540533/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9749"><img alt="IMG_9749" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127540533_90b4dd42bf_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53126466982/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9746"><img alt="IMG_9746" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53126466982_5a0c9ed782_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>海上高速船馳乘30分鐘後,來到神戶機場棧橋,比起從關西國際機場進去大阪市再到神戶,直接橫越大阪灣,又快又便宜。接著搭上接駁巴士,載往航廈大樓。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53126466887/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9750"><img alt="IMG_9750" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53126466887_1b2977a3c9_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127465090/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9753"><img alt="IMG_9753" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127465090_218715670b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>下車後甚至不用進入航廈內就可以直接上2樓,換乘機場聯外的港灣人工島線(ポートアイランド線 / Port Island Line,簡稱Port liner)。不過還是好奇的踏進1樓入境大廳瞧一瞧。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53126466852/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9754"><img alt="IMG_9754" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53126466852_2a9661a9d1_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127465035/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9757"><img alt="IMG_9757" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127465035_aa0513a6be_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127464955/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9758"><img alt="IMG_9758" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127464955_00ece5dc9f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>港灣人工島線連接神戶機場與神戶市區,首先要去的旅遊第一站,相當近,與機場只有一站距離的神戶動物王國。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127060476/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9759"><img alt="IMG_9759" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127060476_648cc0c3b1_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>搭車前,神戶機場駅(神戸空港駅)的售票窗口可以買到"<a href="https://www.knt-liner.co.jp/ticketinfo/2293/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">神戶動物王國・Port liner套票(神戸どうぶつ王国・ポートライナーセット券)</a>",套票內容便是兩張車票,分別是神戶機場駅到京電腦前駅、京電腦前駅到三宮駅,以及一張神戶動物王國門票。這份套票僅在港灣人工島線的端點站販售,也就是神戶機場駅與三宮駅,別處沒有販售。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53126466782/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9761"><img alt="IMG_9761" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53126466782_c0447d2648_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127464930/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9762"><img alt="IMG_9762" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127464930_89d2013cf0_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>港灣人工島線由神戶新交通營運,全線共12站,有10站在人工島上,2站在本州陸地上,屬於沒有駕駛的無人運行鐵路系統。港灣人工島在昭和56年(1981年)初期建成時,成為世界最大的人工島。</div><div><br /></div><div>除了神戶港的港埠設施外,座落在島上的最重要一項設施,是由日本國家級研究機構之一的理化學研究所,與日本富士通共同開發的超級電腦「京(けい / K Computer)」,神戶動物王國就在「京」的對面。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127540303/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9763"><img alt="IMG_9763" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127540303_cd81b1c77b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127268509/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9764"><img alt="IMG_9764" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127268509_e7f65ea664_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127268484/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9765"><img alt="IMG_9765" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127268484_76381ef4e0_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127464810/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9766"><img alt="IMG_9766" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127464810_fc3d693e16_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>一站的距離,4分鐘的時間,光站在窗邊看個海景,還沒坐下,就到目的地的京電腦前駅。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127464835/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9767"><img alt="IMG_9767" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127464835_dac1307366_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53126466707/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9769"><img alt="IMG_9769" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53126466707_23b0e013d9_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53126466657/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9770"><img alt="IMG_9770" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53126466657_7bb4118598_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127060256/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9771"><img alt="IMG_9771" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127060256_494af11682_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>京電腦前駅(京コンピュータ前),一開始還以為附近有一間名為京的科技公司,沒想到是超級電腦。其實這一站改過很多次名字,開業最初命名為港島南駅,在神戶鳥花園開業後,以贊助契約加上副站名鳥花園,又在「京」獲得世界最快超級電腦的認證後,改名為京電腦前駅。而後,副站名也隨著鳥花園取得動物設施的營運全後,冠上神戶動物王國。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127268444/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9773"><img alt="IMG_9773" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127268444_7accf2b438_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127062946/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_0063"><img alt="IMG_0063" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127062946_4bc58bb3c6_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>令和元年(2019年)「京」退役拆除,令和3年(2021年)由後繼的超級電腦「富岳(ふがく)」取代,為了避免科技日新月異更迭過快,車站改名為計算科學中心駅(計算科学センター駅),神戶動物王國・富岳前成了副站名。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127268389/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9776"><img alt="IMG_9776" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127268389_4dac1cfc64_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>京電腦前駅南出口階梯一下來,就是<a href="https://www.kobe-oukoku.com/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">神戶動物王國(神戸どうぶつ王国)</a>,一個不起眼的小屋入口,與想像中不太一樣,刻板印象中的動物園大門,就是新竹動物園與台北木柵動物園的模樣。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53126466637/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9774"><img alt="IMG_9774" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53126466637_cec402cc07_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127060196/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9775"><img alt="IMG_9775" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127060196_01b0c7b43d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>走入第一道自動門後,還有第二道自動門,兩道門之間像是一個緩衝的玄關區,不見售票處之類的,有點遲疑要不要再走進去。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127464725/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9777"><img alt="IMG_9777" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127464725_ab2506604b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127060176/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9778"><img alt="IMG_9778" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127060176_9b1441ed62_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>第二道門後方的景色,就開始有動物園的樣子了。或許今天是星期五,也或許是疫情的因素,園內沒有誇張的人潮,售票櫃台也沒有排隊隊伍,還是與我認知的動物園有很大的不同。園內分為室內區與戶外區,室內區的空間很大,也是顛覆我對動物園的印象。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127540088/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9779"><img alt="IMG_9779" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127540088_5a59997fbc_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>售票櫃台對面是沒有殺傷力的可愛動物區,這區最後再來,先往裡面逛,因為最吸引我們的是可愛憨厚的水豚君。</div><div><br /></div><div>剛出生幾個月的羊駝寶寶也在可愛動物區迎接大家,羊駝寶寶是在令和元年出生,名字就做レイ。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127268364/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9783"><img alt="IMG_9783" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127268364_ff41e2f959_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127540048/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9784"><img alt="IMG_9784" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127540048_b4ae9ce9b7_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>レイ是園區自行繁殖的羊駝,與レイ一起吃草的就是媽媽神那(カンナ),爸爸アラシ比較在戶外區曬太陽。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127540078/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9781"><img alt="IMG_9781" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127540078_70a2b75f36_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div>與歐吉桑的近距離接觸,但怎麼我們靠過去,馬上就低頭變臭臉了,好歹我們遠道而來,來者是客。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127271154/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_0042"><img alt="IMG_0042" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127271154_8896043322_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127271194/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_0041"><img alt="IMG_0041" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127271194_49e59d7851_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127063091/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_0044"><img alt="IMG_0044" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127063091_5ed85bb4dc_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>園內每個區域都用兩道自動門相隔,索性不拿園區地圖,隨意亂走。首先來到中庭的非洲濕地區,水池周遭有著琳瑯滿目的鳥類,有的四處走動,有的站在池邊發呆或躲在樹梢,我們則是四處張望,到處尋覓這些小傢伙的身影,挺有趣的。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127464470/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9800"><img alt="IMG_9800" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127464470_d9543b8e5f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>可惜正好是鵜鶘飛行活動的尾聲,驚鴻一撇看見水道上一隻又一隻的鵜鶘振翅衝場,水花四濺。當我手忙腳亂拿起相機,鵜鶘們已經幽雅地滑過飾育員身旁,回去休息。</div><div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127060011/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9793"><img alt="IMG_9793" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127060011_a78b3dff29_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127464495/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9795"><img alt="IMG_9795" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127464495_f6c3320b94_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127467690/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_0038"><img alt="IMG_0038" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127467690_a1d9c63721_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /></div></div><div><br /></div><div>非洲濕地區最受矚目的就是鯨頭鸛,看上去兇兇的,總覺得牠沒什麼在動,但轉過頭再回來看,就又換了個姿勢。</div><div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127464675/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9786"><img alt="IMG_9786" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127464675_f6db5c7048_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127063266/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_0035"><img alt="IMG_0035" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127063266_be58a66f44_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127271344/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_0034"><img alt="IMG_0034" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127271344_d6f8e35f1f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>鯨頭鸛一直看著遠方,一副什麼大風大浪我沒見過的安穩感。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127059916/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9805"><img alt="IMG_9805" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127059916_efc99628ce_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>等等,美洲紅䴉你入鏡了,鯨頭鸛失焦了啦。 </div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53126466407/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9801"><img alt="IMG_9801" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53126466407_e0c39a84c9_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127271249/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_0040"><img alt="IMG_0040" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127271249_25decd135f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>池邊聚集了一群埃及聖䴉,喙又彎又長,據說這種鳥在古埃及備受尊敬,有預知洪水氾濫的能力,也能消滅帶來瘟疫的蒼蠅,且經常被製作成木乃伊,作為智慧之神托特的象徵。</div></div><div><br /></div><div>埃及聖䴉也在六福村的引進下來到台灣,但是卻讓牠們逃脫,大量繁殖,屬於強勢物種,對本土鳥類及生態環境造成威脅,目前仍在移除族群與控制中。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127464525/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9794"><img alt="IMG_9794" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127464525_f123c9b488_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>埃及聖䴉週圍出現一群環尾狐猴,原來是狐猴的餵食秀要開始了,大家一起跟著飼育員散步~</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127060136/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9787"><img alt="IMG_9787" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127060136_7fa5538773_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127060041/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9790"><img alt="IMG_9790" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127060041_45d558b30f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>體型小小隻,但有塗眼影,眼神很犀利的黑頸長腳鷸。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127271394/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_0030"><img alt="IMG_0030" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127271394_be3fd91b51_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127268129/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9802"><img alt="IMG_9802" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127268129_3886e9f717_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>一直游在白鵝屁股後面的綠頭鴨,還有到處跟著遊客的鴛鴦。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127268219/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9792_1"><img alt="IMG_9792_1" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127268219_36cb00360b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127467790/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_0032"><img alt="IMG_0032" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127467790_32a89abfec_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127268149/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9799"><img alt="IMG_9799" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127268149_cf127cf151_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127063341/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_0033"><img alt="IMG_0033" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127063341_011017d785_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div>不過對鳥類不熟,很多都叫不出名字,只能事後看官網複習。<br /><br /></div><div>穿過中庭的非洲濕地,又回到室內區,先在餐飲區填飽肚子,再繼續尋找動物。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127539678/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9820"><img alt="IMG_9820" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127539678_ce0b499833_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53126466217/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9821"><img alt="IMG_9821" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53126466217_e782642b0a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127464250/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9822"><img alt="IMG_9822" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127464250_6a71b08b98_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>室內區的最南側是岩之谷區,有游泳玩水一身濕漉漉的美洲河狸,一看到遊客靠近,就興奮地在在水中穿梭,在游來與遊客前方停下打個招呼後,繼續攪動水池。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127539558/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9843"><img alt="IMG_9843" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127539558_138d781157_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127464165/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9854"><img alt="IMG_9854" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127464165_380d3d26b7_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127059571/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9856"><img alt="IMG_9856" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127059571_8dae67cb6e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>游累了就上岸補充點青草,再下水繼續游,濕濕的濃密針毛像抹了髮膠般,相當有型。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127464200/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9838"><img alt="IMG_9838" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127464200_734dd60371_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127059651/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9835"><img alt="IMG_9835" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127059651_6ffa61a37c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>一旁也再吃著乾草的野豬,也是美洲來的領西貒,也叫做臭鼬豬,身形小小的,與漫畫裡面看到的野豬模樣差了許多。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127267864/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9850"><img alt="IMG_9850" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127267864_4e30d081d3_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>還有沒有草吃,但也在玩水的浣熊。這時才恍然大悟,原來岩之谷區就是美洲區呢。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127539653/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9829_1"><img alt="IMG_9829_1" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127539653_1da87bb3af_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>再來是東加拿大狼,別名是灰狼,這樣就比較熟悉了。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127267949/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9825"><img alt="IMG_9825" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127267949_faf7de553b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>灰狼旁邊有美洲黑熊,2月底對我們來說還很冷,對這些高緯度來的朋友們,已經進入換毛期的尾聲,背上只剩幾搓棕色長毛,有點突兀。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127539478/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9859"><img alt="IMG_9859" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127539478_2d1fda906e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127267764/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9860"><img alt="IMG_9860" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127267764_6691779b54_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>黑熊不停地來回走著,應該是圈養久了,環境單調又侷限造成的刻板行為。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53126466002/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9862"><img alt="IMG_9862" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53126466002_51392de51b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>走出戶外區,冬天的陽光看似很溫暖,但溫度還是冷颼颼,要不停動一動讓身體暖活。</div><div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127539423/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9867"><img alt="IMG_9867" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127539423_e9e3f5b6b6_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>一旁正在上演趕羊秀,狗狗興奮的追逐羊群,羊倒是跑得不太起勁。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53126466267/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9819"><img alt="IMG_9819" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53126466267_c51010f499_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /></div></div><div><br /></div><div>另一旁的羊駝區,只有見到一隻巧克力色的羊駝,就是レイ的爸爸アラシ,有點怕被吐口水,所以沒有靠的太近。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53126465967/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9864"><img alt="IMG_9864" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53126465967_cc9ed93504_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>水之谷的海狗在水池中穿梭,左右來回,看到我們還會刻意游過來前方打個招呼。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53126465987/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9869"><img alt="IMG_9869" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53126465987_e165be9241_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127267519/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9870"><img alt="IMG_9870" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127267519_5b809c3c83_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127059876/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9808"><img alt="IMG_9808" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127059876_d496b80e1c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>過了一會再繞回來,飼育員正好在與海狗培養感情,兩隻海狗趴在石頭邊緣,胖嘟嘟的真可愛。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53126466362/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9810"><img alt="IMG_9810" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53126466362_99f40446ff_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127539828/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9813"><img alt="IMG_9813" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127539828_ff5382e0dd_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>飼育員:滾~</div><div>海狗:我滾~</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127268069/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9814"><img alt="IMG_9814" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127268069_7d99804e6b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127059831/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9816"><img alt="IMG_9816" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127059831_7bc806859f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>另一池的海豹,體型大了許多,只有在我們路過時,抬頭看了一下,接著繼續懶洋洋地躺著曬太陽。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127539158/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9890"><img alt="IMG_9890" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127539158_d3925a8080_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>企鵝池的斑嘴環企鵝,也叫非洲企鵝,數量不多,反倒不覺得擁擠。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127059406/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9876"><img alt="IMG_9876" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127059406_ccf874766b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127267469/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9872"><img alt="IMG_9872" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127267469_b2d992e8e3_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127463975/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9873"><img alt="IMG_9873" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127463975_67fd7989c4_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>企鵝們一下上岸,一下跳入水中,看到人也是會游到玻璃前打招呼。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127539273/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9878"><img alt="IMG_9878" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127539273_e3b8d4d645_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127463795/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9879"><img alt="IMG_9879" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127463795_de12ef2721_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>袋鼠農場區的澳洲紅大袋鼠,全都倒著休息,進入午休狀態,一動也不動,就很舒服的感覺。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127059316/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9885"><img alt="IMG_9885" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127059316_8b2b453604_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127463735/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9887"><img alt="IMG_9887" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127463735_a79618d072_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127463690/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9889"><img alt="IMG_9889" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127463690_22e1edded7_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>花鹿與袋鼠共處一區,一開始還精神奕奕,沒過一會也與袋鼠一起躺平了。</div><div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53126465822/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9883"><img alt="IMG_9883" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53126465822_1ba253d5ee_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127463705/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9886"><img alt="IMG_9886" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127463705_c0a433c42b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /></div></div><div><br /></div><div>回到室內區,亞達伯拉象龜用比我們想像還快的速度,從我們腳邊爬了過去,身形厚重,很怕不小心被牠的腳採到。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127539108/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9893"><img alt="IMG_9893" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127539108_28c3d5944f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127539088/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9895"><img alt="IMG_9895" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127539088_a8b7b37d13_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>這裡的小動物們都很溫和,可以在熱帶森林區自由自在的活動,豚鼠就很喜歡來找蘇卡達象龜作伴,常常在蘇卡達象龜附近徘徊。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127538783/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9929"><img alt="IMG_9929" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127538783_9ab5893757_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127463565/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9913"><img alt="IMG_9913" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127463565_67653b9d41_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>以前在動物園都是看到馬來膜,今天第一次看到南美貘,看著牠坐姿端正的閉眼休息,一副很祥和的感覺。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53126465587/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9898"><img alt="IMG_9898" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53126465587_5c264286a9_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>來到我們最期待的水豚區,這裡有專門為水豚設立的SPA池,裡面不少水豚正在享受。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127539033/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9900"><img alt="IMG_9900" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127539033_ec387aa3bb_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127267084/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9902"><img alt="IMG_9902" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127267084_16ab10d33c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>看著水豚擠在一起,動也不動,畫面挺療癒的。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127538928/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9921"><img alt="IMG_9921" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127538928_271a0b7d6f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127266879/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9930"><img alt="IMG_9930" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127266879_4be08a2144_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53126465392/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9935"><img alt="IMG_9935" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53126465392_4cc5884cd1_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>也有負責與遊客互動的水豚,在池邊晃來晃去,任大家撫摸與合照。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127463560/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9904"><img alt="IMG_9904" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127463560_c6f38d0f89_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127538838/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9928"><img alt="IMG_9928" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127538838_9e833e8758_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>這區的動物都挺慵懶的,小爪水獺就窩在小平台上發呆,偶爾心血來潮與遊客互動一下。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127463545/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9927"><img alt="IMG_9927" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127463545_97994a16f1_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>給人印象懶洋洋又動作慢的樹懶,剛看到時,還真的抱著樹枝睡,一動也不動。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127058881/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9944"><img alt="IMG_9944" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127058881_5ddde33094_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>而且還可以只用爪子勾著,用奇怪的姿勢睡著,真是太令人敬佩了。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53126469987/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_0003"><img alt="IMG_0003" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53126469987_b845bb699d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>望向另一隻樹懶,牠正以吊掛的方式動了起來,大概是0.75倍數的速度移動,也沒有想像中慢嘛。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127463370/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9945_1"><img alt="IMG_9945_1" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127463370_8e10277d98_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53126465322/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9949"><img alt="IMG_9949" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53126465322_5dce3e064c_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>倒吊的移動方式,其實有點嚇人,腦海中不禁想起鬼片中,懸在天花板上移動的白衣鬼怪。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127058836/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9946"><img alt="IMG_9946" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127058836_0ffd593675_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>結果牠只是移動到另一隻樹懶後面,一起睡覺有個伴。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127462905/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9991"><img alt="IMG_9991" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127462905_efeda7aa79_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>來自澳洲的茶色蟆口鴟,一臉淡定,站在放平的樹塊,一動也不動,彷彿泰山崩於前,也面不改色。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127266804/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9953"><img alt="IMG_9953" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127266804_7984fc4c57_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53126465292/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9954"><img alt="IMG_9954" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53126465292_1ec9d409ff_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>有些比較危險的動物會住在隔有玻璃的區域內,像是南美洲來的拉河三帶犰狳,但牠太害羞,始終背對著我們。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127463215/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9956"><img alt="IMG_9956" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127463215_2cb18e418f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>有活化石之稱的巨骨舌魚,也有象魚的別稱,那麼大一尾,重量一定很驚人,還是隔起來保護遊客比較妥當。</div><div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127060691/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9999"><img alt="IMG_9999" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127060691_54cf311e49_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>來自西非的倭河馬,也稱侏儒河馬,雖然體型只有一般河馬的三分之一,看似溫馴,但殺傷力應該與河馬一樣,所以也是遠遠看就好。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127270969/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_0062"><img alt="IMG_0062" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127270969_0461f36729_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>漁貓正專注在眼前的大骨肉,伸舌舔嘴,沒空理我們。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127063471/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_0012"><img alt="IMG_0012" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127063471_a7fa45b2a0_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127543408/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_0013"><img alt="IMG_0013" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127543408_82edfb5ce9_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>藪貓的耳朵大大的,像家貓一樣縮手趴著,但就是不能像家貓一樣隨心所欲地摸。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53126469632/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_0037"><img alt="IMG_0037" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53126469632_bc4674a693_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /></div></div><div><br /></div><div>再回到開放區域,樹藤上的小傢伙,是名為普通狨的絨耳狨,自顧自地抓著空氣,一會又凝視著高處,不知道在注目著什麼東西。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127538643/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9957"><img alt="IMG_9957" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127538643_462cd7faef_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127266734/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9961"><img alt="IMG_9961" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127266734_e4b7e3fa3d_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53126465167/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9964"><img alt="IMG_9964" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53126465167_0308208500_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>不知道是不是牠們在原生地太常見,所以學名被冠上Common一字,就像之前看到很多普通燕鷗一樣。普通狨體型小,耳朵旁有白毛環繞,細長的尾巴與狐猴一樣,一圈一圈,灰白交錯,挺逗趣的。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127266729/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9966"><img alt="IMG_9966" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127266729_074b5c6019_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53126465132/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9971"><img alt="IMG_9971" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53126465132_cc8f1b8716_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>南美洲來的小食蟻獸,身穿黑色背心,散發紳士般的氣質,在樹藤上優雅的漫步。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127058771/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9969"><img alt="IMG_9969" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127058771_7f130435ea_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127538568/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9973"><img alt="IMG_9973" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127538568_e30bed70aa_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127463090/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9974"><img alt="IMG_9974" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127463090_e2a8726819_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>接著是色彩鮮豔亮麗的鳥類區,站在高處的紫蕉鵑,來自西非,黃色的額頭,紅色的頭羽,眼下畫著白色眼線,紫色的羽毛下,藏著紅色飛羽,讓人不注意到牠也難。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127058736/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9972"><img alt="IMG_9972" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127058736_5658384449_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>西非灰蕉鵑感覺比較不怕生,就趴在離頭頂一點距離的樹枝上,一會又站起來走動一下,悠悠哉哉。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127271599/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_0001"><img alt="IMG_0001" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127271599_91d8814808_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127538478/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9979"><img alt="IMG_9979" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127538478_789bc9ce9b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127266649/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9977"><img alt="IMG_9977" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127266649_e3835befc4_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div>這裡有很多的紅嘴巨嘴鳥,牠們主要生長在南美洲,長長的喙上有鮮豔的顏色,總是讓我聯想到中美洲馬雅文化的圖騰模樣。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127538453/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9983"><img alt="IMG_9983" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127538453_458b43e520_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127266894/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9940"><img alt="IMG_9940" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127266894_d481c842ea_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127463365/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9942"><img alt="IMG_9942" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127463365_93c6c40d14_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>紅嘴巨嘴鳥圓滾滾的眼睛,周遭有淺藍色的眼妝,戴著白色圍兜兜,屁股又紅又黃,相當逗趣。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127538408/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9984"><img alt="IMG_9984" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127538408_7d6fee8c1e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>一旁可以買飼料,餵食紅嘴巨嘴鳥,但牠的喙實在太大,很怕被咬到手。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127266509/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9987"><img alt="IMG_9987" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127266509_a0a6d120bf_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127467990/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_0006"><img alt="IMG_0006" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127467990_316ced4105_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>維多利亞鳳冠鳩,分佈於印尼與巴布亞紐幾內亞,除了胸前的古銅色羽毛外,一身鈷藍色套裝,頭頂綻開的扇形頭冠非常吸引人注目,頭冠尾端略帶白色,顯得華麗又高雅。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127266489/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9994"><img alt="IMG_9994" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127266489_9b7c43a8f1_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127462885/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9996"><img alt="IMG_9996" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127462885_b890ce0359_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>另一位怒髮衝冠的是冠鷓鴣,體型小小的,頭上有撮艷麗鮮紅的羽毛,眼睛周圍紅紅的一圈,有點像漢堡神偷。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127543483/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_0004"><img alt="IMG_0004" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127543483_620a5ac6db_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>來自中南美洲的船嘴鷺,有著扁扁像船底的喙,與平時在公園或湖邊看到的夜鷺相似,只是牠比較喜歡站在高處。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127543508/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_0008"><img alt="IMG_0008" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127543508_a5dfc6faca_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>金剛鸚鵡是我個人比較不敢靠近的鳥類,一來是體型大,再來是會模仿人類說話,有點太聰明了,讓我有些畏懼。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53126465092/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9978"><img alt="IMG_9978" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53126465092_54cfb372a7_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127463015/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9980"><img alt="IMG_9980" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127463015_45394ea0af_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127538363/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_9998"><img alt="IMG_9998" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127538363_25467b9edf_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>來到睡蓮池這區,正開放遊客與貓頭鷹合影留念。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53126469847/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_0020"><img alt="IMG_0020" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53126469847_018aee1b4d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>睡蓮池的另一頭,有著白白胖胖的雪鴞,看上去呆呆的,很可愛。飼育員趁著空檔,與雪鴞進行飛行訓練。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127271069/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_0050_1"><img alt="IMG_0050_1" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127271069_e07d42be34_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127270999/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_0053"><img alt="IMG_0053" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127270999_51e474d45a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>預備飛行的動作相當帥氣,雪鴞也伏低姿勢,準備衝出去。只是飛不到三分之二的距離就著陸,另一頭的飼育員只好走來接起這不想走動的小傢伙,夾些小肉塊餵食後再繼續練。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127271029/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_0052"><img alt="IMG_0052" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127271029_4fba548957_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53126469412/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_0054"><img alt="IMG_0054" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53126469412_7cf15eb34b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127467500/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_0055"><img alt="IMG_0055" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127467500_9e5e9bf287_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>懶到不想動的還有小熊貓,可能上午見太多遊客了,直接攤在橫木上,不過一看到我們路過,馬上精神奕奕的走過來打招呼。</div><div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127467910/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_0024"><img alt="IMG_0024" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127467910_b8d41fa766_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127467830/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_0028"><img alt="IMG_0028" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127467830_3bcb0cf34e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127271454/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_0026"><img alt="IMG_0026" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127271454_335680e21c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div></div><div>再過不到一個月,神戶動物王國就有新夥伴來報到,有兔猻、紋袋貂、呂宋巨型雲鼠、沙漠貓,可惜牠們太晚來報到,無緣見面。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127543013/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_0060"><img alt="IMG_0060" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127543013_81c26939ed_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127277144/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_20200221_120257"><img alt="IMG_20200221_120257" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127277144_4c5c2f36ab_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>離開之前,最後來到動物互動區,有好動又溫和的天竺鼠,還有毛柔順蓬鬆的兔子,小房間內還有狗狗貓貓可以摸一摸。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127063081/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_0048"><img alt="IMG_0048" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127063081_d05037d707_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127467560/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_0049"><img alt="IMG_0049" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127467560_bdcda839c8_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53126469507/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_0047"><img alt="IMG_0047" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53126469507_877ca9e012_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127271099/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_0046"><img alt="IMG_0046" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127271099_e6d4a82ab9_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>不知不覺就在神戶動物王過內待超過4小時,離開後有種心情被療癒的感覺。園內不時撥放著《Hello Especially》,這首歌是《銀之匙Silver Spoon》動畫第一季的片尾曲,當時就特別喜歡它的曲風,歌詞也很觸動人心。它輕快的節奏仍在腦中繚繞,踏著輕盈步伐,搭上前往三宮駅的列車。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127467410/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_0065"><img alt="IMG_0065" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127467410_36e780ae1a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127270909/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_0068"><img alt="IMG_0068" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127270909_41f579e627_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>列車駛過神戶大橋,神戶港平靜的海面在斜陽照耀下閃閃發光,即使隔著窗都覺得眼睛快睜不開。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127467390/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_0070"><img alt="IMG_0070" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127467390_45172f4d3f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127542848/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_0071"><img alt="IMG_0071" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127542848_008fa364fc_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>三宮是個軌道路線複雜的交會點,除了神戶新交通的港灣人工島線之外,還有JR西日本、阪急電鐵、阪神電鐵、神戶市營地下鐵,共5間業者的軌道路線匯集於此。</div><div><br /></div><div>出站還算簡單,不論出站後是在地上或地下樓層,總之就是先到一樓,出了建築物,在來尋找方位。進站就比較有挑戰性了,有點為明天搭車去有馬溫泉感到擔心。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127542843/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_0074"><img alt="IMG_0074" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127542843_363841c068_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>先走去今晚下塌的住所放行李,再繼續逛逛神戶市區。</div><div><br /></div><div>途中穿過二宮商店街,街道路幅沒有太寬,大概是早期的商店街,很有懷舊感的氛圍。但明明就在熱鬧的三宮旁邊,離車站也不遠,卻人煙稀少,店鋪也拉下鐵門居多,這大概也是舊商店街拉不住人潮後的寂寥與惆悵。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127270829/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_0076"><img alt="IMG_0076" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127270829_322ccd9911_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>路過某一店家,三尊哥吉拉模型玩偶模型就放在門口旁當擺飾,看了好想要,不知道哪買的到。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127270774/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_0081"><img alt="IMG_0081" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127270774_6035bb4d67_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>今晚住的地方有點特別,是間名為<a href="https://kobe-kua-house.com/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">神戸クアハウス</a>的溫泉浴池,溫泉浴場或會館在日本不稀奇,泡湯再結合膠囊旅館,這還是頭一次見識。</div><div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53126469222/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_0079"><img alt="IMG_0079" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53126469222_e657e3e472_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>大廳以黃光打底,搭配櫃台後方偌大的展示燈箱,不難推敲這是間有年代的浴場,應該也是在時代更迭下,為了延續而發展的模式。對於我們遊客來說,只是住一晚,又可以泡湯泡個夠,還挺不錯的。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127542373/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_0123_1"><img alt="IMG_0123_1" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127542373_8fccc8130e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>大廳旁有個出水處,寫著布引の水,取自源自六甲山布引溪流的天然水,是百水名選之一,在館內可以自行取用,但限500ml,大門外的販賣機,也有販售的罐裝天然水。好奇之下,還是裝了一小口嚐嚐。</div><div><br /></div><div>話說,本來想規劃晚上搭纜車上山,看一看日本新三大夜景之一的六甲山夜景,可以資料一查,冬季纜車不營運,尚未開放,只好作罷。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127467020/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_0121"><img alt="IMG_0121" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127467020_c233925591_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /></div></div><div><br /></div><div>放好背包,再東摸西摸,外頭的店色也漸漸暗下。也不知道為什麼神戶的甜點店特別多,本來想年輪蛋糕,倒是被Patisserie Tooth Tooth吸引,不小心就放棄年輪蛋糕,走了進去。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127549068/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_20200221_180559"><img alt="IMG_20200221_180559" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127549068_a2c7d3d0f9_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Patisserie Tooth Tooth是神戶相當有名的甜點店之一,一入店,精緻的甜點就在眼前排列展開。我們望著玻璃櫃中繽紛的色彩,終於各自挑了喜歡的派與蛋糕。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127473600/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_20200221_181601"><img alt="IMG_20200221_181601" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127473600_111ab7d0ba_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127473530/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_20200221_184903"><img alt="IMG_20200221_184903" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127473530_eba4beb829_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127270759/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_0082"><img alt="IMG_0082" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127270759_81801790f9_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127542743/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_0083_1"><img alt="IMG_0083_1" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127542743_820d5f50c6_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127062766/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_0084"><img alt="IMG_0084" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127062766_c250248692_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>再加點一杯加了熱可可,上面灑滿白巧克力片,點綴紅紅的果乾,一口喝下,身體都暖了起來。除了巧克力的甜,還有一股回甘的味道,原來紅色果乾是枸杞,讓這杯可可帶著厚重的特殊中藥風味。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53126469122/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_0085"><img alt="IMG_0085" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53126469122_c0eba04476_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>接著來到附近的もりもり寿し,不知道菜單上的握壽司日文,就來迴轉壽司最方便。もりもり寿し來自北陸金澤,讓我想到上回在金澤城熱到快中暑,熱到連要去近江町市場是海鮮都沒去,這次也算些微彌補遺憾吧,更何況晚上8點多了,店外還是一堆人在排隊,肯定很不錯。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127548963/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_20200221_200047"><img alt="IMG_20200221_200047" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127548963_9aa3c83767_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127277044/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_20200221_192640"><img alt="IMG_20200221_192640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127277044_ce6a516f44_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127069146/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_20200221_193729"><img alt="IMG_20200221_193729" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127069146_c1dd06c781_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div>雖然沒能去六甲山看夜景,但從11月到隔年3月有冬季燈飾活動,位置就在洋溢異國風情的北野異人館周遭。於是飽餐一頓後,即使已經晚上9點,仍是來到北野坂走走晃晃,往山上大大的KOBE字燈走去。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53126469022/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_0103"><img alt="IMG_0103" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53126469022_688a9cfba2_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127270654/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_0097"><img alt="IMG_0097" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127270654_b8d9fed7c0_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>這時間還在營業的店家不多了,坂道上方的星巴克,是少數將街道照亮的店,突然很想哼起《全世界失眠中》的這一句:「一個人失眠,全世界失眠~ 無辜的街燈,守候明天~」</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127542713/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_0086"><img alt="IMG_0086" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127542713_c1e3846e08_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127467200/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_0096"><img alt="IMG_0096" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127467200_74958353b3_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>這間星巴克的建築物可是大有來頭,建築本身被列為國家有形文化財,2層樓的木造老洋房建於明治40年(1907年),算一算已經超過百年了。建物原本是美國人的宅邸,後來由德國麵包師傅擁有,不過在阪神淡路大地震受損拆除,保留下的建材經過重建修復,就成了現在的模樣。先是成立北野物語館資料館,後來星巴克神戶北野異人館店開幕。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127467230/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_0091"><img alt="IMG_0091" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127467230_b1bb189699_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127062726/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_0093"><img alt="IMG_0093" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127062726_040c2abbff_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>趁著星巴克還沒打烊,買杯熱咖啡暖暖身子,也看看有沒有特殊款式的馬克杯。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127270689/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_0092"><img alt="IMG_0092" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127270689_ae4fe822bc_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53126469062/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_0094"><img alt="IMG_0094" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53126469062_d9134e1a32_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>北野町廣場掛滿了慶祝春節的紅燈籠,空無一人的廣場,有著吹奏長笛的樂手與小狗銅像,在燈籠紅光的映照下,彷彿舞台演奏還在進行中。</div><div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53126468942/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_0115"><img alt="IMG_0115" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53126468942_1e901de924_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>作為最早接觸西方文化之一的神戶,擁有多彩面貌的港口城市,也是日本Jazz音樂的發揚地,在這廣場周遭設立了4座演奏爵士樂的銅像,可惜天色暗了,另外3座就有緣在相遇。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53126468972/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_0113"><img alt="IMG_0113" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53126468972_c1307f3f86_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /></div></div><div><br /></div>
<div>晚上的風見雞之館與萌黃之館,在燈光的照耀下,在夜色下仍不失風采,一不小心又發現吹小號與吹薩克斯風的樂手銅像,第4位樂手沒看到,真的就有緣在見。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127062641/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_0109"><img alt="IMG_0109" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127062641_6bbc716aa2_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>風見雞之館是德國貿易商人的宅邸,建於明治37年(1904年),紅磚煉瓦與屋頂風見雞是其特徵,另一棟萌黃之館是明治36年(1903年)所建,是美國駐神戶總領事的官邸,兩間都是日本國家重要文化財。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127542478/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_0114"><img alt="IMG_0114" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127542478_e644988674_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127062631/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_0111"><img alt="IMG_0111" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127062631_02acbbb8fc_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>再往上走,是北野天滿宮,與福岡太宰府天滿宮同為天神信仰的中心。鳥居前周遭的櫻花樹都還含著苞,下回時間充裕,再來好好把這裡與異人館這一區逛一光。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127542443/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_0119"><img alt="IMG_0119" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127542443_b9f36b5cf7_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127542398/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_0120"><img alt="IMG_0120" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127542398_e923a9a68b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /></div><div>回到神戸クアハウス,悠閒地泡了個溫泉。大概是疫情的影響,沒什麼遊客入住,但一整天下來,大家都還過著正常的生活,彷彿病毒、確診,都是很遙遠的事情,當然我自己也不例外,索性收起口罩,鑽回自己的小空間,打開小小電視催眠自己,結束這一天。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127270489/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_0124"><img alt="IMG_0124" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127270489_0be67d6b71_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127542348/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_0125"><img alt="IMG_0125" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127542348_9e6c3ded15_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53127543528/in/album-72177720310590121/" title="IMG_0127"><img alt="IMG_0127" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53127543528_84b079bd14_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>後記:</div><div>《銀之匙 Silver Spoon》與《鋼之鍊金術師》的作者是荒川弘,先有鋼鍊,才有銀之匙,光以故事類型來看,很難聯想是出自同一作者。銀之匙是在Celia的推薦下,某天想起才翻了一下,本以為北海道酪農的背景會很單調,沒想到一讀就被故事吸引,動畫化後的OP及EP都很耐聽,更沒想到會在神戶動物王國一直聽到這首歌~</div><div><br /></div><div>《Hello Especially》</div><div><div>曲:スキマスイッチ</div><div>詞︰スキマスイッチ</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="361" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/4D13K0l8PoU" width="480" youtube-src-id="4D13K0l8PoU"></iframe></div></div><div><br /></div><div><div>アジサイがさよならを告げたら 夏の風をまた迎えよう</div><div>跟繡球花告別了之後 就再次迎接夏天的涼風吧</div><div><br /></div><div>育った街を遠く離れて 季節を跨いできた</div><div>遠離長大的家鄉後 又已過了一個季節</div><div><br /></div><div>たまには手紙を書いてみるよ</div><div>偶爾試試寫封信吧</div><div><br /></div><div>どっかにポストカードでもあったっけ</div><div>明信片之類的放在哪裡了呢</div><div><br /></div><div>懐かしい顔に向けて ほんの数秒ノスタルジーを</div><div>想著那令人懷念的臉孔 寫下數行字的鄉愁</div><div><br /></div><div>チュ チュルチュ チュ チュチュチュルチュ 調子はどうですか?</div><div>Chu~ Chu ru chu~ Chu~ Chu chu chu ru chu~ 最近過得如何啊?</div><div><br /></div><div>チュ チュルチュ チュ チュチュチュルチュ 忙しくしていますか?</div><div>Chu~ Chu ru chu~ Chu~ Chu chu chu ru chu~ 一直都很忙碌嗎?</div><div><br /></div><div>無我夢中で探し回ってた あの夢の具合はどんなだい?</div><div>曾經忘我般追尋的那個夢想 現在進展如何了啊?</div><div><br /></div><div>相変わらずだよって 飲み明かせたならいいな</div><div>能夠說著還是老樣子吧 一起喝到天明就好了</div><div><br /></div><div>それだけで最高</div><div>只要如此就心滿意足啦</div><div><br /></div><div>長い月日と試行錯誤の中で いろんな景色を見てきたけど</div><div>在長久的歲月與不斷失敗的摸索之中 雖然見過了各式各樣的景色</div><div><br /></div><div>まだ実感はないや でも簡単に思い出せるんだ</div><div>雖然還沒有真實感 但卻能夠簡單的回想起來</div><div><br /></div><div>君とはしゃいだ あの日のことは</div><div>與你歡樂喧鬧的那些歲月</div><div><br /></div><div>チュ チュルチュ チュ チュチュチュルチュ 僕の声は聞こえていますか?</div><div>Chu~ Chu ru chu~ Chu~ Chu chu chu ru chu~ 能聽見我的聲音嗎?</div><div><br /></div><div>チュ チュルチュ チュ チュチュチュルチュ 評判はいかがですか?</div><div>Chu~ Chu ru chu~ Chu~ Chu chu chu ru chu~ 評價如何呢?</div><div><br /></div><div>3650日分のメロディーと言葉をパッケージしよう</div><div>把3650天份的旋律和想說的話語打包起來吧</div><div><br /></div><div>気分転換くらいのノリで 一緒に歌わないかい</div><div>要不要趁著心情轉換般的勁頭 一起來歌唱呢</div><div><br /></div><div>そして無我夢中で探し回ってた あの夢の続きを語り合おうよ</div><div>然後那個曾經忘我般追尋的那個夢想 讓我們來聊聊夢想的後續吧</div><div><br /></div><div>明日もがんばろうぜ 今そこにある未来へ</div><div>明天也要好好努力呢 向著就在眼前的未來</div><div><br /></div><div>駆け出してさぁ、行こう!</div></div><div>邁開腳步奔跑吧、出發吧!</div><div><br /></div><div>2020.02</div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2023/12/day-2.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #ffe599;" target="_blank">日本山陽行 + 貓島第三彈 Day 2:生田神社.神戶港塔.神戶牛.有馬溫泉</a></div><div><span style="background-color: #ffe599;"><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2024/01/day-3-1.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">日本山陽行 + 貓島第三彈 Day 3-1:姬路城 日遊&夜遊</a></span></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2024/02/day-3-2.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #ffe599;" target="_blank">日本山陽行 + 貓島第三彈 Day 3-2:明石城.明石雞蛋燒.舞子公園.明石海峽大橋</a></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2024/02/day-4-1.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #ffe599;" target="_blank">日本山陽行 + 貓島第三彈 Day 4-1:姬路城好古園.活水軒穴子魚套餐</a></div>
Laxichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04802970745091107114noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37782309.post-3536256291625207722023-08-17T15:48:00.003+08:002023-08-17T15:48:55.329+08:00以跑代訓:日月潭環湖.跑出金虎爺.虎尾烤雞馬.通霄濱海追風馬<div>10月開始的下半年,報名了一連串的路跑,希望以跑代訓,將目標放在明年2月的人生第2場海外馬拉松 - 日本姬路城馬拉松。因為先前日本河口湖馬拉松的體驗,面對11月的冬天,加上關門時間與連續抽筋的雙重壓力下,勉強完賽,更別說日本更寒冷的2月。所以希望在前進姬路之前,多喚起一些身體疲勞的痛苦記憶,到時順順的完賽就好。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53106609918/in/album-72177720310393634/" title="IMG_20191215_075725"><img alt="IMG_20191215_075725" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53106609918_fae0cea2ba_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><span><a name='more'></a></span><div><br /></div><div><b><span style="font-size: medium;">.日月潭環湖馬拉松</span></b></div><div><br /></div><div>10月先是選了環日月潭的路跑,心裡盤算能夠邊跑邊賞秋紅,現實卻是天氣不但不冷,中部的氣溫還很高,山林仍是綠意盎然。</div><div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53106101866/in/album-72177720310381481/" title="IMG_20191026_161605"><img alt="IMG_20191026_161605" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53106101866_4228fb2803_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53105530262/in/album-72177720310381481/" title="IMG_20191026_123235"><img alt="IMG_20191026_123235" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53105530262_fdd933a189_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53106101826/in/album-72177720310381481/" title="IMG_20191026_123454"><img alt="IMG_20191026_123454" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53106101826_a065fac05a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div>好幾年前,曾在水社碼頭的捷安特租借單車,環潭一圈,沒想到多年後,要用雙腳來環潭。</div><div><br /></div><div>前一夜,水社碼頭附近找了間民宿,隔日搭著接駁車,前往向山遊客中心的會場。賽事路線以順時針的方向環潭,一開始就要跑經過民宿樓下,怪怪的肚子,逼著我跑上樓上廁所,當下真有那麼一點念頭,想棄賽,躺回床上補眠。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53106511880/in/album-72177720310381481/" title="IMG_20191026_114313"><img alt="IMG_20191026_114313" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53106511880_5f6350b890_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53105530302/in/album-72177720310381481/" title="IMG_20191026_114345"><img alt="IMG_20191026_114345" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53105530302_191a04b2c2_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53106606968/in/album-72177720310381481/" title="IMG_20191026_114824"><img alt="IMG_20191026_114824" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53106606968_0643e65656_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div>一開始路線平緩,給大家個甜頭,很快來到中潭公路與環潭公路的T字路口,還記得小時候來日月潭,這裡有個收費站,要付50元門票才能進到日月潭,而那時的50元是現在已經見不到的藍色紙鈔。</div><div><br /></div><div>T字路口過後,從台21線改為台21甲線,開始爬坡,一路爬到文武廟,中途<span face=""Google Sans", Roboto, "Noto Sans TC", Arial, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #202124; font-size: 16px;">雲品酒店的工作人員在路旁為跑者加油打氣,但如果可以,我想待在你們飯店裡吃早餐</span><span face="Google Sans, Roboto, Noto Sans TC, Arial, sans-serif" style="color: #202124;">buffet、吹冷氣。</span></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53106101846/in/album-72177720310381481/" title="IMG_20191026_115928"><img alt="IMG_20191026_115928" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53106101846_6443ddca62_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53106305574/in/album-72177720310381481/" title="IMG_20191026_121749"><img alt="IMG_20191026_121749" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53106305574_3e44d2550b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div>雖然是環湖跑,但路旁綠樹茂密,大多數時間都看不到湖面。辛苦跑上文武廟,湖光山色突然在眼前展開,美不勝收。</div><div><br /></div><div>文武廟後的路段,起起伏伏,湖景時有時無,比較無趣了些。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53105530232/in/album-72177720310381481/" title="IMG_20191026_135845"><img alt="IMG_20191026_135845" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53105530232_b58da314c3_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53106606883/in/album-72177720310381481/" title="IMG_20191026_135925"><img alt="IMG_20191026_135925" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53106606883_3fab05f52d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53106511835/in/album-72177720310381481/" title="IMG_20191026_140010"><img alt="IMG_20191026_140010" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53106511835_7f5415e886_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div>跑下日月潭纜車站,看著其他遊客攜家帶眷準備搭纜車進去九族文化村,自己上一回進去九族文化村,大概是國小畢業旅行了吧。</div><div><br /></div><div>太陽升起後,伊達邵碼頭這段路特別熱,一度要被熱度擊墜,可是沒有回收車,所以硬著頭皮也要撐回去向山。況且,再往前一段路,就是玄奘寺,那裡有滷豆干及茶葉蛋,可以為自己回回血。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53106511865/in/album-72177720310381481/" title="IMG_20191026_123715"><img alt="IMG_20191026_123715" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53106511865_f5f1daa93f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53106511840/in/album-72177720310381481/" title="IMG_20191026_125351"><img alt="IMG_20191026_125351" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53106511840_b52818e727_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53106606888/in/album-72177720310381481/" title="IMG_20191026_134300"><img alt="IMG_20191026_134300" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53106606888_2855f98c79_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /></div></div><div><br /></div><div>吃了一份滷豆干後,接著是一連串無聊的髮夾彎之字下坡,繞過日月潭最南端的潭頭,穿過環湖一號隧道,遠離湖畔,剩下檳榔樹相隨。</div><div><br /></div><div>於頭社接回台21線,最後大魔王現身,超過2km的長上坡,加上日正當中的曝曬,要躲太陽,只能奮力往水社隧道前進。隧道另一頭就是下坡路,也是向山遊客中心,回到終點。</div><div><br /></div><div>跑完還不算結束,拿出悠遊卡,搭上開往水社的公車,回到民宿,洗掉一身疲憊,這才換上句點。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53106359926/in/album-72177720310381481/" title="1691652628371"><img alt="1691652628371" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53106359926_d5047b8085_o.png" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div><b><span style="font-size: medium;">.</span></b><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>跑出金虎爺全國路跑賽</b></span></div><div><br /></div>11月,再往南,來到嘉義,參加新港奉天宮的跑出金虎爺。原本以為秋天的尾聲,溫度會溫和一些,結果還是熱氣逼人,賽前一天就先來不遠處的太保,逛逛故宮南院,躲太陽。</div><div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53106103226/in/album-72177720310393599/" title="IMG_20191116_151943"><img alt="IMG_20191116_151943" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53106103226_e53d152715_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53106608348/in/album-72177720310393599/" title="IMG_20191116_152135"><img alt="IMG_20191116_152135" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53106608348_b00f6a92a2_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div>由於新港沒有什麼住宿可選,雖然官方有提供費用隨喜的香客大樓,但為了好好睡一覺,選了隔壁北港朝天宮旁的旅館住宿,一早在開車來新港。</div><div><br /></div><div>萬萬沒想到,旅館的格局頗差,樓上的排水管穿透樓地板到樓下,屋內裝潢太過於工業風,沒有裝潢天花板及隔音,水流聲吵不停,結果也沒睡好。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53106513320/in/album-72177720310393599/" title="IMG_20191116_190205"><img alt="IMG_20191116_190205" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53106513320_e805569df6_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div><div>天色還為轉白,廟前這條平時有如參拜大道的中山路,人潮漸漸聚集。清一色是一會要參賽的跑者。</div><div>(突然發現,隔壁新港朝天宮前方的參拜大道,也是中山路,真巧。)</div></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53106513300/in/album-72177720310393599/" title="IMG_20191117_052748"><img alt="IMG_20191117_052748" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53106513300_3d99bb67ee_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53106513305/in/album-72177720310393599/" title="IMG_20191117_053134"><img alt="IMG_20191117_053134" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53106513305_fe7a78672b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div>奉天宮的虎爺比大家更早,已經坐鎮在舞台前,希望等會我們奮力的奔跑,可以取悅到虎爺。賽事的另一個賣點,就是抽股票,停放在舞台上的機車,也是獎品之一。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53106513275/in/album-72177720310393599/" title="IMG_20191117_053300"><img alt="IMG_20191117_053300" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53106513275_5a6076e740_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53105531777/in/album-72177720310393599/" title="IMG_20191117_053603"><img alt="IMG_20191117_053603" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53105531777_583dc61e15_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div>天空翻為魚肚白,奉天宮的牌樓下,準備起跑。這次第二次跑金虎爺路跑,路程雖然短短12.5km,因為虎爺的獎牌很可愛,所以就又來報名。</div><div>(也有一部分原因是一直拿不到金屬製的虎爺獎牌,前一次拿到木頭的獎牌,拿到的當下有點傻眼。)</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53105531767/in/album-72177720310393599/" title="IMG_20191117_055431"><img alt="IMG_20191117_055431" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53105531767_97f0e41906_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53106608313/in/album-72177720310393599/" title="IMG_20191117_055530"><img alt="IMG_20191117_055530" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53106608313_a68cce32f2_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div>剛升起的陽光特別熱,從牌樓出發後,沿著縣道157,接到高鐵下方跑一段,再沿著昔日台糖五分車往返嘉義與笨港的路線,經過紀念的板頭厝車站,跑到接近北港溪的地方,再沿著堤防繞回來。</div><div><br /></div><div>終點設在新港鄉公所,沿著新民路走回奉天宮,路旁停了一輛小美冰淇淋的貨車,發放黑糖珍奶口味的冰棒,吃完瞬間降溫,還有發放捷克狼皮的小提袋,真是不錯。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53106306994/in/album-72177720310393599/" title="IMG_20191117_074455"><img alt="IMG_20191117_074455" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53106306994_15a59388de_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53106103166/in/album-72177720310393599/" title="IMG_20191117_075004"><img alt="IMG_20191117_075004" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53106103166_2d71143f1f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53106513220/in/album-72177720310393599/" title="IMG_20191117_084253"><img alt="IMG_20191117_084253" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53106513220_484a72c45d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53106513235/in/album-72177720310393599/" title="IMG_20191117_084327"><img alt="IMG_20191117_084327" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53106513235_09b595b133_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div>因為這場的組別沒有全馬,也沒有半馬,所以抽獎宣布頭獎股票得主後,人潮散的很快。奉天宮參拜大道兩旁的店家不似隔壁朝天宮那麼多又熱鬧,一下就恢復寧靜。最後,用大會提供的兌換券,換了包喜歡的新港飴,北上返家。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53106359921/in/album-72177720310393599/" title="1691653507046"><img alt="1691653507046" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53106359921_710be2e021_o.png" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div><b><span style="font-size: medium;">.</span></b><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>虎尾全國馬拉松烤雞馬</b></span></div><div><br /></div>
12月初來到雲林,愈入冬愈熱的中台灣,在Celia念書時打工的早餐店阿姨家借住一晚,一早來到虎尾鎮立體育場,準備挑戰全馬。<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53106514040/in/album-72177720310381506/" title="IMG_20191201_062259"><img alt="IMG_20191201_062259" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53106514040_a6308cf84a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div>跑出會場後,先是逆時鐘繞了虎尾鎮上一小角,接著就一路往西。跑了好一會,來到北溪厝的龍安宮,大會刻意如此規劃路線,讓我們轉進來欣賞北溪剪紙藝術村,村內紅通通的剪紙彩繪,搭配清一色的白底,特別顯眼,有別於先前他處看到的彩繪藝術村,這裡相當的特別,不禁聯想起今日已經看不道的皮影戲,還有小時候曾風靡一時的剪紙畫。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53105532522/in/album-72177720310381506/" title="IMG_20191201_071459"><img alt="IMG_20191201_071459" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53105532522_50edc4b677_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53106307744/in/album-72177720310381506/" title="IMG_20191201_071502"><img alt="IMG_20191201_071502" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53106307744_53d781569c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53105532497/in/album-72177720310381506/" title="IMG_20191201_071507"><img alt="IMG_20191201_071507" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53105532497_32f89e03bb_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53106307739/in/album-72177720310381506/" title="IMG_20191201_071514"><img alt="IMG_20191201_071514" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53106307739_d7120e36e9_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53106609123/in/album-72177720310381506/" title="IMG_20191201_071608"><img alt="IMG_20191201_071608" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53106609123_70e2601ff7_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53106609113/in/album-72177720310381506/" title="IMG_20191201_071621"><img alt="IMG_20191201_071621" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53106609113_10bd24633a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div>北溪剪紙藝術村也是這場全馬跑下來,記憶最深刻的地方。其他部分像是失意般,只記得全馬時間漫長,不只考驗體力,也很考驗意志力,要不時面對內心要求停下腳步的念頭,肉體與心靈是相衝突的。</div><div><br /></div><div>跑經過土庫與褒忠,好不容易來到21k處,下一個半馬才正要開始,可是還沒有到折返點,心情有點鬱悶。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53106609058/in/album-72177720310381506/" title="IMG_20191201_090243"><img alt="IMG_20191201_090243" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53106609058_a3e74cd00c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53105532472/in/album-72177720310381506/" title="IMG_20191201_090251"><img alt="IMG_20191201_090251" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53105532472_ae4fe73b84_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div>終於來到折返點,有五年千歲祖廟之稱的馬鳴山鎮安宮。雖然沒有遮陰處,宮廟有池水環繞,微風徐徐,帶點涼意,配上藍天,好想就在這邊躺著休息。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53106307689/in/album-72177720310381506/" title="IMG_20191201_091613"><img alt="IMG_20191201_091613" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53106307689_5389ba8c3c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div>折返後底擋不住心魔,還是忍不住停下腳步,開始在烈日下步行,然後在勉強提起腳步跑一段,心中默默算著再跑幾百步,或是再過幾根電線桿的距離就停下來用走的,就這樣再縣道158甲線與縣道158上慢慢地往回推進。</div><div><br /></div><div>終於又回到了北溪厝,民宅旁的黑色大水桶,被漆上白色裝扮,變成一個可愛的菜頭,真是逗趣。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53106513945/in/album-72177720310381506/" title="IMG_20191201_114854"><img alt="IMG_20191201_114854" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53106513945_9dc70a2808_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53106609063/in/album-72177720310381506/" title="IMG_20191201_114857"><img alt="IMG_20191201_114857" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53106609063_106b946dde_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53106307684/in/album-72177720310381506/" title="IMG_20191201_133604"><img alt="IMG_20191201_133604" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53106307684_413e44a168_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>拖著疲勞不甘的腳步,終於回到終點前,限制時間7小時內完賽,而即將要去的日本馬拉松是6小時,再晚個幾分鐘就會被關門,希望到時能在時限內壓線達陣。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53105532437/in/album-72177720310381506/" title="IMG_20191201_122434"><img alt="IMG_20191201_122434" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53105532437_ce47c0c57b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53106772995/in/album-72177720310381506/" title="1691653523183"><img alt="1691653523183" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53106772995_f9565b250b_o.png" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div><b><span style="font-size: medium;">.</span></b><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>通霄濱海追風馬拉松</b></span></div><div><br /></div>
兩週後的12月中,報了通霄馬,也是第二次參加,同樣也是選擇半馬,原因無他,就是因為很喜歡跑在海岸堤防上的感覺,再加上完賽獎牌是立體海豚,二話不說就報名了。</div><div><br /></div><div>海風一如往常的大,我們也一如往常的混,第一個補給站的黑糖糕與綠豆湯,不小心多吃了幾塊,也多喝了幾碗,結果就跑不動,走走跑跑來到折返點的白沙屯拱天宮。<br /><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53106308514/in/album-72177720310393634/" title="IMG_20191215_082706"><img alt="IMG_20191215_082706" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53106308514_0c45475b93_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53106104626/in/album-72177720310393634/" title="IMG_20191215_082739"><img alt="IMG_20191215_082739" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53106104626_40a253deee_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div>拱天宮香客大樓的廚房一早就忙進忙出,與上次見到的景象一樣,阿婆們忙著削菜切菜,總感覺等會前來用膳的進香團是個大陣仗。</div><div><br /></div><div>廟前的攤販也起了個大早,招攬經過的跑者,還好我沒帶錢在身上,輕鬆逃離誘惑。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53106609893/in/album-72177720310393634/" title="IMG_20191215_082912"><img alt="IMG_20191215_082912" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53106609893_9a97ab9178_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53106514750/in/album-72177720310393634/" title="IMG_20191215_082916"><img alt="IMG_20191215_082916" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53106514750_7f34bc9e9a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div>啟明國小的小朋友鼓隊再次出陣,欣賞一下表演,順便偷休息。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53106104596/in/album-72177720310393634/" title="IMG_20191215_083343"><img alt="IMG_20191215_083343" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53106104596_7319617386_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53106609868/in/album-72177720310393634/" title="IMG_20191215_083952_1"><img alt="IMG_20191215_083952_1" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53106609868_99d6c63f2c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div>回程有堤防就繼續跑堤防上,吹著海風,愜意跑著,反正都落後那麼多了,就慢慢來。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53106308484/in/album-72177720310393634/" title="IMG_20191215_084835"><img alt="IMG_20191215_084835" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53106308484_4299cdcaca_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53106514770/in/album-72177720310393634/" title="IMG_20191215_085004"><img alt="IMG_20191215_085004" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53106514770_ec8f28f376_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div>3個半小時後,回到會場,比PB慢1個小時多一點點,這輩子大概沒機會再破PB了吧~</div><div><br /></div><div>話說第一屆的通霄馬,重啟了通霄海水浴場的場地,本以為海水浴場內再歷經一年無人使用之後,會荒廢不堪,沒想到場地還是很整潔,這也多虧大會與協辦單位的付出,在我心中是場小而優的路跑賽事呢。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53106514755/in/album-72177720310393634/" title="IMG_20191215_101646"><img alt="IMG_20191215_101646" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53106514755_c7ec9d65c8_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53106867603/in/album-72177720310393634/" title="1691653539871"><img alt="1691653539871" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53106867603_645dbe730a_o.png" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div>因為通霄馬實在跑得太廢,後來又在台北河濱自主練習,從百齡河濱公園跑到松山彩虹橋再折返,跑了30km,也花了7小時,看來接下來日本那場馬拉松,只能不問結果,盡力就好了。</div><div><br /></div><div>2019.10-12</div>
</div>Laxichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04802970745091107114noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37782309.post-78111417180148408652023-08-09T16:04:00.003+08:002023-08-09T16:04:20.675+08:00南湖主東二訪<div>雙十連假的南湖超級熱鬧,既申請不到雲稜山屋,也申請不到南湖山屋的床位,只申請到營地,沒魚蝦也好,至少有拿入園證的資格。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53072916683/in/album-72177720310032645/" title="IMG_9653"><img alt="IMG_9653" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53072916683_7937fefd87_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><span><a name='more'></a></span><div><br /></div><div>連假的大眾高山路線一定相當熱門,只是沒想到到如此誇張,710林道口的停車場會滿是肯定的,沒想到連勝光這邊都要到馬鰣橋之後才有車位可停。想必山上人滿到不能再滿,不知道有多少爬黑山的隊伍。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53071833952/in/album-72177720310032645/" title="IMG_20191010_070417"><img alt="IMG_20191010_070417" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53071833952_3a59498ba3_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>勝光起登,菜園之字坡接防火巷,登上平緩的勝光山,接上710林道4.8K處。</div><div><br /></div><div>與思源相比,勝光確實縮短了一些距離。然而,前一次從思源登山口起登已是9年前的事,雖有耳聞路況變差,但不知林道前段已變成怎樣的狀態,只對那台出不去的怪手印象深刻。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53072411821/in/album-72177720310032645/" title="IMG_20191010_094653"><img alt="IMG_20191010_094653" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53072411821_5e9d2518d0_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53072411791/in/album-72177720310032645/" title="IMG_20191010_085036"><img alt="IMG_20191010_085036" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53072411791_f01270ca4d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>林道6.8K傳統路線登山口,在偌大的二葉松下稍稍休息後,陡上松風嶺,這段路是全程唯二辛苦的路段。</div><div><br /></div><div>後記:</div><div>後來有隊伍於2002年在林道5.2K與5.5K開了新路,沿稜線直上松風嶺,會不會變好走,就要看後續常不常被利用了。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53072411726/in/album-72177720310032645/" title="IMG_20191010_115153"><img alt="IMG_20191010_115153" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53072411726_4fc49d4bd5_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>午後抵達雲稜山屋,營地早就被佔滿,明明只有規劃14個營位,搭好的帳篷卻遠遠超過這數字,還不包括那些商業隊紮了不收、佔地為王的萬年帳,各管理處什麼時候才願意將營位也標示且編號呢!</div><div>(其實雲稜前的路徑上就有隊伍紮營,還有隊伍直接紮在路中間,真想一腳踢開!)</div><div><br /></div><div>就連山屋的兩座儲水桶,其中一座的水龍頭鑰匙還被商業隊協作收了起來,另一座已經無水可取,也不將上鎖的水龍頭打開,非得要人措詞嚴厲後,才願意交出鑰匙解鎖。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53072604149/in/album-72177720310032645/" title="IMG_20191010_163356"><img alt="IMG_20191010_163356" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53072604149_e64c634ce3_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>一路往回退,退回木杆鞍部紮營,後面不時有隊伍上來,最後連木杆鞍部也紮的滿滿滿。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53072411856/in/album-72177720310032645/" title="IMG_20191010_172430"><img alt="IMG_20191010_172430" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53072411856_5a093de181_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>雖然心情挺火大的,但離開雲稜也好,營地實在有夠臭,生態廁所飄出的味道,要聞一整夜也挺噁心的。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53072915008/in/album-72177720310032645/" title="IMG_9644"><img alt="IMG_9644" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53072915008_1c4c32ae28_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>一早的溫度就直線飆升,從審馬陣草原開始無處可躲,唯有接受這無情地曝曬,直到感受七葷八素後,才能親近南湖圈谷。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53072816810/in/album-72177720310032645/" title="IMG_20191011_102308"><img alt="IMG_20191011_102308" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53072816810_97736d8c03_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53072816900/in/album-72177720310032645/" title="IMG_20191011_114833"><img alt="IMG_20191011_114833" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53072816900_5f77678b8f_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53071835362/in/album-72177720310032645/" title="IMG_20191011_122053"><img alt="IMG_20191011_122053" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53071835362_aeda72440a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53072605769/in/album-72177720310032645/" title="IMG_20191011_122215"><img alt="IMG_20191011_122215" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53072605769_ae9245f551_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>路徑旁的南湖北山稍微歇息,找了叢可以稍微遮蔽的小矮樹叢,躲進小小的陰影中,享用簡單的午餐。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53072817495/in/album-72177720310032645/" title="IMG_9649"><img alt="IMG_9649" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53072817495_067afd021c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53071836032/in/album-72177720310032645/" title="IMG_9650"><img alt="IMG_9650" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53071836032_d6ff94a8e5_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>往東邊望去,Peakfinder顯示能夠看見與那國町的宇良部岳,甚至更遠處還有西表島的古見岳,只是海平線上糊糊的,無法辨識。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53072817395/in/album-72177720310032645/" title="IMG_9654"><img alt="IMG_9654" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53072817395_1752b6285f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>還有一個糊糊的,就是五岩峰前的警示牌,多年前來也是這個模樣,是用驚悚的意象來提醒登山客小心安全嗎?</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53072607679/in/album-72177720310032645/" title="IMG_20191011_151802"><img alt="IMG_20191011_151802" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53072607679_eda43a6604_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>藍天下的五岩峰,還好沒有強風助陣,就只有暴露感重了一些,輕鬆應對。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53072818715/in/album-72177720310032645/" title="IMG_20191011_152955"><img alt="IMG_20191011_152955" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53072818715_6e433c57b3_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53071837392/in/album-72177720310032645/" title="IMG_20191011_153344"><img alt="IMG_20191011_153344" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53071837392_dbbc3e1943_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>南湖大山北峰向東北延伸的支脈,受到和平北溪的向源侵蝕,右股的坡面寸草不生,彷彿崩塌隨時會再發生。我們在左股坡面上的稜線,向南湖大山北峰推進,看了心裡毛毛、癢癢的。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53072415051/in/album-72177720310032645/" title="IMG_20191011_153354"><img alt="IMG_20191011_153354" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53072415051_433b4ee9b2_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53072607509/in/album-72177720310032645/" title="IMG_20191011_153538"><img alt="IMG_20191011_153538" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53072607509_5471fb8a8d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>另一個毛毛的是這附近常見的南湖杜鵑,葉面的絨毛,就像灑了糖霜般,可惜不是下雪的那種糖霜,因為冬天我也沒有勇氣來五岩峰。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53072917963/in/album-72177720310032645/" title="IMG_20191011_153755"><img alt="IMG_20191011_153755" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53072917963_a609dacff1_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53072607514/in/album-72177720310032645/" title="IMG_20191011_154544"><img alt="IMG_20191011_154544" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53072607514_7e6e6d6420_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53072917903/in/album-72177720310032645/" title="IMG_20191011_155032"><img alt="IMG_20191011_155032" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53072917903_a4aabdf2ab_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53072818515/in/album-72177720310032645/" title="IMG_20191011_161312"><img alt="IMG_20191011_161312" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53072818515_0a3fb516e2_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>沒有細數是不是確實翻過五座光禿禿的裸岩,從最後一顆的南湖大山北峰回頭望,那雪主與北稜角就像航空母艦般,雪南與志佳陽在艦艏劃破白雲,從雲海中浮出。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53071837152/in/album-72177720310032645/" title="IMG_20191011_161824"><img alt="IMG_20191011_161824" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53071837152_23f00f5519_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53072917853/in/album-72177720310032645/" title="IMG_20191011_162113"><img alt="IMG_20191011_162113" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53072917853_ef0437626f_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>北峰與圈谷的碎石坡,是另一條覺得唯二辛苦的路段,不論下去或上來,而且避不掉。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53072607409/in/album-72177720310032645/" title="IMG_20191011_163322"><img alt="IMG_20191011_163322" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53072607409_55174c4599_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>順勢借力,一路小跑步下來,納悶的是,南湖北山與南湖大山北峰,到底是如何去區分誰是山、誰是峰?更何況,北峰的高度比北山還高,北山卻被選入百岳之一,不太能理解。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53072917683/in/album-72177720310032645/" title="IMG_20191011_165951"><img alt="IMG_20191011_165951" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53072917683_7df7f41a34_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>回望碎石坡,還是先不要去想回程爬上去的事,明天的事,明天再說。</div><div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53072414726/in/album-72177720310032645/" title="IMG_20191011_165647"><img alt="IMG_20191011_165647" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53072414726_98df16d944_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>南湖山屋附近已經搭起許多帳篷,最靠近山屋的,不用想也知道是商業隊的帳篷。說的好聽是客人還沒到,或是沒人訂的帳篷可以拆給你用,但說穿了還是一種霸佔的行為。</div></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53072414736/in/album-72177720310032645/" title="IMG_20191011_165405"><img alt="IMG_20191011_165405" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53072414736_3a4820d015_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>圈谷西側的缺口,不知道是不是舊時由南湖溪挖出的冰河谷,如今南湖溪成了伏流,這開口成了我最喜歡的角度之一,白雲與眼前景物同高,彷彿自己站在天空之上。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53072918053/in/album-72177720310032645/" title="IMG_20191012_112045"><img alt="IMG_20191012_112045" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53072918053_80a2efe1e1_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>圈谷看似很大,避風又平坦的地點倒是不多,晚來就是撿剩的。沒關係,還有高級住宅區可以選擇,既然大家都是Hilleberg,就搭在一起吧。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53072823605/in/album-72177720310032645/" title="IMG_9736"><img alt="IMG_9736" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53072823605_3e9b13a0fb_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53072414336/in/album-72177720310032645/" title="IMG_20191011_192011"><img alt="IMG_20191011_192011" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53072414336_4e8c1d6385_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>隔日,聽聞大部分的隊伍要去東峰看日出,那我們就先往主峰行。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53071837012/in/album-72177720310032645/" title="IMG_20191012_065110"><img alt="IMG_20191012_065110" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53071837012_beefc6ffc0_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>北峰山頭上戴了一頂斗笠雲,上有一縷雲絲,隨著風的律動,輕柔飄逸。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53072820570/in/album-72177720310032645/" title="IMG_9655"><img alt="IMG_9655" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53072820570_d7ea6cdf23_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53072820555/in/album-72177720310032645/" title="IMG_9660"><img alt="IMG_9660" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53072820555_ea9cc2cd99_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>太陽升起後的日光,把主東鞍部的片岩照得閃閃發亮,讓人眼睛都快睜不開了。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53072609339/in/album-72177720310032645/" title="IMG_9661"><img alt="IMG_9661" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53072609339_98095168f4_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>方才那一縷雲絲,飄了過來,在東峰上頭舞動著。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53072820445/in/album-72177720310032645/" title="IMG_9665"><img alt="IMG_9665" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53072820445_cc1a96edf7_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53072919828/in/album-72177720310032645/" title="IMG_9666"><img alt="IMG_9666" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53072919828_61da346e3b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>在綿延的中央山脈上,南湖大山主峰雖然高度次於最高的秀姑巒山,以及同樣是關山山塊的第二高峰馬博拉斯山,南湖大山卻是南湖山塊上的最高峰,站在其上,傲視群峰。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53072609279/in/album-72177720310032645/" title="IMG_9670"><img alt="IMG_9670" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53072609279_d9dab92689_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>一邊爬升,一邊數山頭。奇萊東稜的盤石、太魯閣、立霧主、帕托魯。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53072820355/in/album-72177720310032645/" title="IMG_9671"><img alt="IMG_9671" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53072820355_1f44b29ee6_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>奇萊、畢羊、合歡、干卓萬、玉山,一排接一排。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53071839252/in/album-72177720310032645/" title="IMG_9674"><img alt="IMG_9674" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53071839252_496b570e3e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>聖稜、雪志、雪劍,加上一點點的雪西。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53072416701/in/album-72177720310032645/" title="IMG_9676"><img alt="IMG_9676" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53072416701_c61f918311_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53072416741/in/album-72177720310032645/" title="IMG_9678"><img alt="IMG_9678" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53072416741_1dac78136f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53072820315/in/album-72177720310032645/" title="IMG_9679"><img alt="IMG_9679" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53072820315_9cfe532bea_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>立於南湖大山主峰之上,再來環視一輪,北面是等一會要爬回去的南湖大山北峰、五岩峰、北山,旁有尖尖的東北峰。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53072417086/in/album-72177720310032645/" title="IMG_9683"><img alt="IMG_9683" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53072417086_2e4c6ef603_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div>雪山系列從雲中探頭的中霸坪、桃山、小霸、巴紗拉雲、品田、布秀蘭、穆特勒布、雪北。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53072418371/in/album-72177720310032645/" title="IMG_9688"><img alt="IMG_9688" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53072418371_389fdd54b9_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>再到凱蘭特崑、北稜角、雪主、草坡上的369山莊、甘木林山、雪山南峰、志佳陽大山。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53071840757/in/album-72177720310032645/" title="IMG_9685"><img alt="IMG_9685" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53071840757_433c6cb70d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>然後是雪山西南峰、奇峻山、大劍山、大雪山、匹匹達山、油婆蘭草坡、布伕奇寒山,佳陽山、小劍山,盡是些耳熟能詳,又讓人心神向往的名字。不過,惦惦自己的斤兩,還是再練練好了。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53072821970/in/album-72177720310032645/" title="IMG_9687"><img alt="IMG_9687" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53072821970_e9090a1dae_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>小劍山下是大甲溪河谷,河谷V字的深處有著小小的東卯山,河谷對岸是折騰人的白姑大山山系。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53072821935/in/album-72177720310032645/" title="IMG_9691"><img alt="IMG_9691" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53072821935_d55cf5a369_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>南面是常常與南湖綁再一起唸的中央尖,身後一排又一排,除了那些平易近人的合歡奇萊,剩下都是名字拗口又天數長的山頭,姑且就統稱為裏.中央山脈。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53072610609/in/album-72177720310032645/" title="IMG_9690"><img alt="IMG_9690" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53072610609_43e8607255_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>東南面的山陵緩緩沉降,隱入太平洋的雲海之中。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53071840632/in/album-72177720310032645/" title="IMG_9692"><img alt="IMG_9692" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53071840632_560f34187b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>東北面的蘭陽平原完全被雲海掩蓋,無緣看見龜山島。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53071840637/in/album-72177720310032645/" title="IMG_9693"><img alt="IMG_9693" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53071840637_b46010b597_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>俯瞰下圈谷的南湖山屋與營地,帳篷雖然不像日本涸澤那麼誇張,但人家的營地至少是使用者付費的正當營位,這到底有多少頂是爬黑山的呢。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53072416731/in/album-72177720310032645/" title="IMG_9682"><img alt="IMG_9682" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53072416731_13e7343fea_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53072418191/in/album-72177720310032645/" title="IMG_9696"><img alt="IMG_9696" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53072418191_08100caabb_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53072921133/in/album-72177720310032645/" title="IMG_9699"><img alt="IMG_9699" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53072921133_0b6e31b9d5_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>返回主東鞍部,路面已經不再閃耀刺眼,有學者認為這片平坦的鞍部,是冰帽所在的位置。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53071840542/in/album-72177720310032645/" title="IMG_9700"><img alt="IMG_9700" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53071840542_cfac6b55b1_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>鞍部望向主峰,感覺主峰就像一座小丘陵,忘了自己置身在3000米的高處。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53072921413/in/album-72177720310032645/" title="IMG_9702"><img alt="IMG_9702" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53072921413_e0723fa1e4_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>鞍部望向東峰西面,很像V型的冰斗樣貌,把板岩構成的東峰挖去大半,將稜線侵蝕的像刀刃般尖銳。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53072821770/in/album-72177720310032645/" title="IMG_9701"><img alt="IMG_9701" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53072821770_1221d98f9c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53072611719/in/album-72177720310032645/" title="IMG_9705"><img alt="IMG_9705" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53072611719_21003d4fb7_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>不遠處有座像金字塔的小尖尖,不知道是不是冰河遺留的角峰地形。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53072419311/in/album-72177720310032645/" title="IMG_9707"><img alt="IMG_9707" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53072419311_cc70a64e6e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /></div><div>南湖大山北峰來時的碎石路,也是等會的回程路,是四號圈谷。沿著稜線再往東,與東北峰之間是三號圈谷。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53072922378/in/album-72177720310032645/" title="IMG_9704"><img alt="IMG_9704" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53072922378_50988f152a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53072611314/in/album-72177720310032645/" title="IMG_9711"><img alt="IMG_9711" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53072611314_36a284bace_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /></div><div>東峰南面也是一處圈谷,U型的坡面,幻想積滿雪的冬天,坐著雪盆,一路溜下的畫面。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53071841597/in/album-72177720310032645/" title="IMG_9708"><img alt="IMG_9708" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53071841597_41221dda33_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53072611614/in/album-72177720310032645/" title="IMG_9709"><img alt="IMG_9709" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53072611614_2c9a633401_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53071842212/in/album-72177720310032645/" title="IMG_9725"><img alt="IMG_9725" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53071842212_c253878c88_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53072419221/in/album-72177720310032645/" title="IMG_9710"><img alt="IMG_9710" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53072419221_a26b25d828_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53072921678/in/album-72177720310032645/" title="IMG_9715"><img alt="IMG_9715" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53072921678_3fb84237b7_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div>
<div>奇特的板岩,上來沒什麼難度,斜豎堆疊至山頂,沒什麼腹地,就連山頂木樁標示都必須傾斜設置。只是下去是順向坡,得要多留神了。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53072921823/in/album-72177720310032645/" title="IMG_9721"><img alt="IMG_9721" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53072921823_78b0b73a35_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53072922088/in/album-72177720310032645/" title="IMG_9712"><img alt="IMG_9712" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53072922088_74e1a1f672_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53072822435/in/album-72177720310032645/" title="IMG_9723"><img alt="IMG_9723" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53072822435_768451f985_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div>拔營前,再留戀一會這個讓人流連忘返的秘密基地,等等雲霧就要把這淹沒了。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53072612124/in/album-72177720310032645/" title="IMG_9731"><img alt="IMG_9731" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53072612124_c64b94b792_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53072823540/in/album-72177720310032645/" title="IMG_9735"><img alt="IMG_9735" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53072823540_42587fa646_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>前天雲稜山屋的水已經不太夠用,南湖溪取水3公升,奮力爬上四號圈谷的碎石坡。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53072824310/in/album-72177720310032645/" title="IMG_20191012_114806"><img alt="IMG_20191012_114806" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53072824310_7ed4997618_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53072420651/in/album-72177720310032645/" title="IMG_20191012_114818"><img alt="IMG_20191012_114818" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53072420651_781b1c5108_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>審馬陣後,走入樹林,也走入茫茫白牆之中。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53072420591/in/album-72177720310032645/" title="IMG_20191012_135312"><img alt="IMG_20191012_135312" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53072420591_59a7904f27_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53072420656/in/album-72177720310032645/" title="IMG_20191012_141825"><img alt="IMG_20191012_141825" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53072420656_50aa433c27_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>回到雲稜山屋,四周又被滿滿的帳篷包圍,擠的水洩不通,在近乎全滿的木杆鞍部,勉強找了塊地紮營。隨後愈來愈多隊伍來到,也沒位置可紮了,只能再往多加屯、松風嶺,最差就要下到林道登山口的大空地了。</div><div><br /></div><div>這就是不論有沒有搶到入園,連假登山的悲哀。</div><div><br /></div><div>2019.10</div>
Laxichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04802970745091107114noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37782309.post-68822404990895026842023-07-26T11:57:00.091+08:002023-07-27T11:41:36.886+08:00閂山鈴鳴+人待山
<div><div>最一開始爬山的頭幾回是參加商業團,台北車站東三門及圓山捷運站是最常集合的地方,後來開始自組隊,除了少數幾次隊伍人數多,需要包接駁車之外,不然小隊伍自行開車,山下的行程也有彈性多了,乘坐肯定也是舒適許多,不用擠在三排座的窄空間,腳不知道放哪邊,也不會因為接駁地點最晚上車,而淪落坐在中間沒扶手,被甩啊甩的位置。但是,這次的閂山鈴鳴,登山口在路況爛到不能再爛的730林道,雖然內心百般不願,但還是得要靠接駁。</div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53045927020/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9525"><img alt="IMG_9525" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53045927020_9ef1268f00_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><span><a name='more'></a></span><div><br /></div><div>一想到730林道的接駁,最多人想到的就是王小明民宿接駁,這幾年過去,不知道有沒有多幾間業者。不過多幾間業者,也改變不了那曲折蜿蜒又破爛的林道,一路顛簸又會車不易。</div><div><br /></div><div>接近11.7K處,車行最後終點。再往前,腐朽的木柵欄直立在林道上,自此開始,只能步行進入。如預期般,端午節來爬閂山鈴鳴的隊伍很多,工寮肯定是搶不贏那些健腳的山友,因此今天預設的紮營地點就是25K工寮之前,有空地就紮營。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53044969157/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9642"><img alt="IMG_9642" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53044969157_967d357288_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53044950157/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9392"><img alt="IMG_9392" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53044950157_f53be9e0e2_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /></div><div><br /></div><div>起初,林間空隙之間冒出的是雪山倩影。望著那雪山南壁那片光禿禿的碎石坡,擺在心中那個雪主下志佳陽的想法,又冒了上來,可是每每考量到兩地接駁與天數,這念頭很快就又沉了下去。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53046027308/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9397"><img alt="IMG_9397" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53046027308_80c844f175_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>這角度不怎麼像桃子的桃山,還有兩側的喀拉業山與池有山,也不時現蹤。</div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53045536076/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9393"><img alt="IMG_9393" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53045536076_c134f9651f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div>從11.7K開始,一直到紮營處,約莫要推進13K,林道緩緩而上,不算難行。但或許是昨夜接駁車在台7線與台7甲一路狂飆,暈車症狀未解,睡眠不足,今早又在林道上甩來晃去,整個提不起精神,體力像雲霄飛車般直線落下。</div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53044950102/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9398"><img alt="IMG_9398" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53044950102_e97f142e2b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53045921820/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9399"><img alt="IMG_9399" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53045921820_dda4249576_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53045921570/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9400"><img alt="IMG_9400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53045921570_2120c3b425_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div>遺留在林道上的日本鈴木AT100機車,不知見證多少世代的山友,與它合照留影。</div><div><br /></div><div>沿路一直想著,要是能騎車或開車進來就好了。每當意志消沉,就有點羨慕早年那些前輩們,可搭車長驅直入,現在只能拖著沉重腳步,靠著看風景來轉移注意力了。</div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53046027118/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9403"><img alt="IMG_9403" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53046027118_6c3421aff8_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53045714049/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9401"><img alt="IMG_9401" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53045714049_851096cac1_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div>16K的大髮夾彎,品田山也出現了,四秀到齊。繞過這個大髮夾彎,林道上就再也不會看見雪山山脈的山頭了,取而代之的,是中央山脈的南湖大山與中央尖山。</div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53045921480/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9404"><img alt="IMG_9404" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53045921480_1187c434fe_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53045535651/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9405"><img alt="IMG_9405" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53045535651_c1211af0b5_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53044949572/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9406"><img alt="IMG_9406" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53044949572_c78e3a674c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div>撇開自身狀態不好之因素,這段林道還算挺舒服的,因為車輛無法通行,路面不會有兩道凹陷的輪胎行,路面少有積水淤泥,松針滿地,柔軟的康莊大道。</div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53045713854/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9407"><img alt="IMG_9407" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53045713854_c7db6e7ed1_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div>林道旁的小叉路,下切耳無溪,是往甘藷無明的路,從溪底爬回來要上升700m,也是頗硬的。若不想走回頭路,就要走成O型,才能接回鈴鳴山,真是兩難啊。</div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53046026778/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9408"><img alt="IMG_9408" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53046026778_cfb3a867d3_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div>路邊的告示牌,圖案早已斑駁,鐵片隨時要與背板分家。沒有經歷過那繁華精彩的舊時代的我們,如今看著避車道三字,剩下的只是苦笑。</div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53046026673/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9409"><img alt="IMG_9409" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53046026673_4036e26fbf_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div>18K的巨大倒木被稱為閂山之門,但離閂山登山口還有一大段距離,繼續認命地踢林道。</div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53045535391/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9410"><img alt="IMG_9410" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53045535391_e459dd37ca_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div>路邊小小的葉片,看起來頗為可愛,蹲下來(偷休息)仔細一瞧,那莖與葉上布滿小小細刺,看來應該是咬人貓的幼葉,突然又覺得沒那麼可愛了。</div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53045535346/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9412"><img alt="IMG_9412" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53045535346_c9912d584e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div>寬敞的林道,山側的駁坎仍相當完整,只可惜車上不來,繼續踢。</div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53044949102/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9416"><img alt="IMG_9416" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53044949102_ef42026345_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53045920940/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9415"><img alt="IMG_9415" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53045920940_893a7ec530_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>幾個之字坡後,路徑繼續在茶岩山東面山腰緩緩向前延伸,對面不時露出的無明、甘藷、中央尖與南湖,提振一下精神。</div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53046026268/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9417"><img alt="IMG_9417" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53046026268_8bf46eb893_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53045535086/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9414"><img alt="IMG_9414" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53045535086_dee0d70f9f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53046027448/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9418"><img alt="IMG_9418" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53046027448_3212b6f631_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53045716624/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9419"><img alt="IMG_9419" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53045716624_5a73a6077b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div>又一支代表舊時代的警示牌,山坡土石將其推移傾斜,哪一天橫躺在林道上也不奇怪。</div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53045716454/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9420"><img alt="IMG_9420" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53045716454_6bc2b7d71f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div>閂山登山口的營地已經容不下我們的帳棚,繼續往前,鈴鳴山也愈來愈近,那也就表示明天不用走很遠,想到就覺得開心。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53045537871/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9422"><img alt="IMG_9422" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53045537871_aa5ec105a0_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>順著鈴鳴山的稜線往北望去,那綠意稀疏又帶著暗灰色的無明山,有著讓人聽到名字就退卻三步的斷崖,南有無明斷崖,北有鬼門關斷崖。若要四座山頭一次走完,斷崖就是北二段O行要面臨的難題啊。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53045716099/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9423"><img alt="IMG_9423" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53045716099_5e003b2b0d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>鈴鳴山南面的後方,出現鋸齒連峰與畢祿山,再後方有奇萊主山北峰開始連綿的奇萊連峰。</div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53046029203/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9421"><img alt="IMG_9421" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53046029203_8011625629_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div>靠著強大的隊友(看不下去我們走太慢),先找到了幾塊不錯的空地。躲進帳篷小睡一下,可是在那之前,還要先去取水,不然晚餐無水可用,只好拖著疲憊的身軀,再繼續往前走。</div><div><br /></div><div>這裡的水源有2處,皆在25K工寮之前。先來到約24.4K處,有個接有水管的水源,但水流微弱,看著正在接水的山友,腳邊還放著好幾個空水袋,肯定還要等很久才輪的到,看了就不耐煩。大多山友也都放棄此處,直接前往下一個紅磚水源,反正取水跟著大多數的人走就對了,哪裡人多就去哪裡。果不其然,涓涓流水順著岩壁流下,沒一會就可以拎著飽滿的水袋回營地。</div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53045537906/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9426"><img alt="IMG_9426" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53045537906_9bcf72550f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53045716024/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9427"><img alt="IMG_9427" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53045716024_5bc995fa41_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div>一夜好眠,精神恢復不少,比前一天要死不活的狀態好太多了。</div>
<div><br /></div><div>第二天,過了25K工寮叉路,26K之後有崩塌地形,為了避免摸黑通過,決定天亮後再出發。也忘了哪一次,大家在線上討論到人待山稜線東側的人待池,從衛星圖上看就是有一塊黑影,但不在正規路徑上,也鮮少紀錄,有點神秘。</div><div><br /></div><div>總之,後來就改成高繞三叉路口取左,高繞過崩塌地後,叉路口再取左,不下切接回腰繞路,沿稜線直取人待山。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53045715839/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9428"><img alt="IMG_9428" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53045715839_614979dec8_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53046028653/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9429"><img alt="IMG_9429" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53046028653_3e7132b376_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53046028763/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9430"><img alt="IMG_9430" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53046028763_d533186a10_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53046028578/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9432"><img alt="IMG_9432" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53046028578_07e6f42c48_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div>左右兩側的山頭又更近了,無明山的山頭草坡讓人感覺沒那麼險惡,其實猙獰的一面藏在背後。</div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53044951357/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9433"><img alt="IMG_9433" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53044951357_6c1416abd8_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div>合歡東峰,北合歡山與反射板都感覺好近,天空的雲離山頂也好近,希望太陽爬高後,能雲霧消散。</div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53044951262/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9434"><img alt="IMG_9434" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53044951262_2131c5f5b8_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div>往人待山的地形沒什麼難度,頂多是箭竹又高又密了些,只要離前面遠一點,就不會被反彈的箭竹打臉。</div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53045923015/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9435"><img alt="IMG_9435" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53045923015_a8e5247b45_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53046028483/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9438"><img alt="IMG_9438" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53046028483_5d13c1f96c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div>先經過人待山北峰,H3074M。再經鞍部,穿出樹林,便是人待山,H3110M,兩座山頂都無基石。</div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53045922840/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9439"><img alt="IMG_9439" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53045922840_619801d7c7_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53045715324/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9440"><img alt="IMG_9440" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53045715324_74c61fcac0_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div>穿出樹林往後望,一眼就能認出那岩脈皺褶頗具特色的品田山,雪山聖稜線的山稜再次現身,前排則是雪主東線的稜脈。</div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53046028248/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9441"><img alt="IMG_9441" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53046028248_985d2b8b8e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div>人待山山頂是一片大箭竹草坡,展望挺不賴的,只是頭頂上的雲太搶戲,暗得令人憂心,畢竟氣象局的預報,行程第三天就會變天,希望壞天氣不要提前來報到。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53046031593/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9448"><img alt="IMG_9448" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53046031593_f5581ecb83_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>鋸齒連峰、畢祿山、北畢祿山、奇萊連峰,還有很搶戲的流雲。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53046031568/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9455"><img alt="IMG_9455" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53046031568_55cd2bb075_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>奇萊連峰、合歡山東峰、合歡山主峰、北合歡山,以及那往西合歡山七上八下的山頭。最遠最遠處,冒出淡淡的玉山山影。</div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53046028263/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9443"><img alt="IMG_9443" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53046028263_15cbd026b8_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div>鈴鳴山山頭就在眼前,應該沒有假山頭了吧!右後的遠方,立霧主山從稜線探出一點點頭來,等會登上鈴鳴山頂,應該會看得更清楚。<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53045925820/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9454"><img alt="IMG_9454" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53045925820_acd5733182_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53044953857/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9462"><img alt="IMG_9462" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53044953857_28749b0eb9_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53045718214/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9463"><img alt="IMG_9463" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53045718214_7d20aa5c02_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div>
<div>從這個草原山頭到下一個草原山頭,路徑又鑽入樹林與杜鵑林中。左右外望,畢祿斷崖、無明斷崖、中央尖的死亡稜線,變得相當明顯,寸草不生的樣貌頗為驚人,有點慶幸腳下閂山鈴鳴這段路,平易近人多了。</div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53045539856/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9467"><img alt="IMG_9467" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53045539856_9d22940ee1_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53045717999/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9470"><img alt="IMG_9470" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53045717999_3acdc8347d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53044953607/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9473"><img alt="IMG_9473" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53044953607_cdb73b7392_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53046030733/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9477"><img alt="IMG_9477" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53046030733_756bb453a8_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53045717969/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9471"><img alt="IMG_9471" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53045717969_9dbf80ccfd_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53044953467/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9476"><img alt="IMG_9476" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53044953467_f852192a5b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div>登上鈴鳴山的平緩草坡山頭之前,仍有一段陡升,坡上杜鵑遍佈,無樹林遮避,恰好能夠回望人待山,內心期許著,能否就那麼幸運看到人待池。只是事與願違,人待池大概就在山頭右下後方的草坡邊緣,被樹林擋住了視線。</div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53044953327/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9479"><img alt="IMG_9479" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53044953327_d6a8cf196d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53045539446/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9480"><img alt="IMG_9480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53045539446_4d96b07e94_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53044953982/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9482"><img alt="IMG_9482" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53044953982_1b6fe36e87_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div>在上河文化的書中記載"少了「百岳」頭銜的人待山,時至今日,山頭雖僅偏離縱走途徑數百公尺,卻極少人登臨。而位於此山北稜東側,昔日水草豐美,常見水鹿在此嬉戲的「鹿池」,則因民國66年的大乾旱後,池底的不透水層乾涸裂開,再也無法屯積雨水,如今已變成草生地了。"。</div><div><br /></div><div>但Google Maps衛星空照圖上仍有那塊像水池的黑影,地圖瀏覽器上也仍標示著,但在那樣的坡面地形,能蓄積南北長有20m、南寬10m、北寬4m的不乾涸池水,也挺耐人尋味。或許有一天,好奇的念頭再萌生,那就再來探一探吧。</div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53045720174/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9483"><img alt="IMG_9483" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53045720174_9817085504_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div>一番努力,站上平緩山稜,不遠的前方,像小指翹起來的小尖尖,就是鈴鳴山了。</div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53045927490/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9485"><img alt="IMG_9485" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53045927490_386f96898f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div>無名山旁也冒出最東邊的山稜線,清水大山與三角錐山。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53044956027/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9484"><img alt="IMG_9484" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53044956027_f09caca5bf_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53046033138/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9488"><img alt="IMG_9488" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53046033138_625dfe64cc_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div>上午10點半,登頂鈴鳴山,H3272M,三等三角點6373。</div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53045541581/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9493"><img alt="IMG_9493" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53045541581_8ce9f62382_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53044955722/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9496"><img alt="IMG_9496" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53044955722_810e29a40a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53044955682/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9497"><img alt="IMG_9497" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53044955682_2db1f335be_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53046032918/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9503"><img alt="IMG_9503" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53046032918_13ef368394_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div>山頂打混許久,環顧四周,群山環繞,僅有一角露出了海面上的層積雲,連綿山巒像似被強硬地撕了開來,一道左彎右拐的V形峽谷,是立霧溪強行切割出的太魯閣。</div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53045719804/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9509"><img alt="IMG_9509" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53045719804_99e886c8d4_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div>端午連假的氣象預報,預計在行程的第三天的午後開始變天,只是現在就覺得頭頂的灰雲不太安分。</div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53044955457/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9520"><img alt="IMG_9520" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53044955457_d4bb352c77_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div>人待山上還看的見的奇萊連峰,不一會就抹上一層濃厚白雲,不見身影。這條雲帶彷彿就在我們頭頂,由南向北順著中央山脈主稜集結,反倒是旁邊一點的合歡群峰,以及奇萊東稜的太魯閣大山及立霧主山,上空就藍天居多。</div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53045927205/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9511"><img alt="IMG_9511" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53045927205_c95c5475e5_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53045927130/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9513"><img alt="IMG_9513" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53045927130_daff4a46a3_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div>回望來時路,雪山山脈的山頭清晰可見,從雪山主峰到南峰,從翠池三叉山到大劍山、小劍山,後排還有西稜的大雪山與小雪山。</div><div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53045720029/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9491"><img alt="IMG_9491" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53045720029_1b2c9f96b4_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53046033128/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9489"><img alt="IMG_9489" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53046033128_13325449b2_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div></div><div>回程,雲就追了上來,把眼前雪山稜線慢慢遮了起來,開始要在前排的閂山移動了。</div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53045719724/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9524"><img alt="IMG_9524" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53045719724_5cff95a1f2_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53044955417/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9528_1"><img alt="IMG_9528_1" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53044955417_f664e51216_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53045541286/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9532"><img alt="IMG_9532" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53045541286_bba0a6d55b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53046032718/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9533"><img alt="IMG_9533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53046032718_75d83a7180_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div>回程就不走人待山,走傳統路線,叉路直接下切730林道終點。曾看過有網友將這個鞍部叉路口取名為鈴人叉,如果取名為鳴人叉,也蠻有趣的(自以為大家都知道火影忍者)。</div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53046033438/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9534"><img alt="IMG_9534" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53046033438_cc75b6a739_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53044960537/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9537"><img alt="IMG_9537" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53044960537_68cde921b8_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53046037448/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9538"><img alt="IMG_9538" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53046037448_8df86812ab_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53046037223/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9539"><img alt="IMG_9539" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53046037223_a180019efd_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div>下切之路與人待山相比,沒有輕鬆到哪裡去,手腳並用,攀石翻木,接回林道盡頭27.5K,才又轉為平緩好走的散步模式。</div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53044960287/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9541"><img alt="IMG_9541" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53044960287_ceae12cf34_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53045547371/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9544"><img alt="IMG_9544" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53045547371_c15ea406f7_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53044961607/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9549"><img alt="IMG_9549" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53044961607_192e863cb8_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div>26K的倒木與崩塌地,討論了好一會,因為留下的拉繩還蠻穩固的,最後決定不高繞,直接突破。</div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53044961217/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9552"><img alt="IMG_9552" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53044961217_a4fb4ffc8d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53044961337/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9553"><img alt="IMG_9553" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53044961337_fde274ba3d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div>崩塌的坡面沒預期般碎裂難行,踏點都挺穩固的,全員很快地通過崩塌地,省去不少時間與體力。</div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53044961012/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9558"><img alt="IMG_9558" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53044961012_bd95ecc7c6_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53045724969/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9560"><img alt="IMG_9560" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53045724969_361709ecb7_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div>既然時間還算充裕,下午2點半出頭回到25K工寮,便轉向金明真路,往閂山前進。</div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53045724869/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9563"><img alt="IMG_9563" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53045724869_dbd62dbc4e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53045724959/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9565"><img alt="IMG_9565" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53045724959_7577cbe993_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div>本以為金明真路會是條輕鬆的捷徑,結果是我太天真,不停連續爬升,雖然坡度不太陡,但也不太緩,腳下的土鬆軟,腳底需更加施力,累的特別快。</div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53046037618/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9566"><img alt="IMG_9566" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53046037618_0eeb60da2d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53044960642/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9568"><img alt="IMG_9568" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53044960642_63b321a145_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53045546096/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9569"><img alt="IMG_9569" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53045546096_955aef4052_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div>走了將近一個半小時,才來到傳統路徑的叉路口,離山頂還有將近一半的路程,比我預期的還要久,早知道就踢林道回23.2K的登山口,從林道上切稜線的坡度也沒有金明真路來的長與陡。</div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53045724654/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9570"><img alt="IMG_9570" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53045724654_d59369319f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53044967227/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9571"><img alt="IMG_9571" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53044967227_5e5d6c1fda_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div>在樹林與箭竹中,又再奮戰了40分鐘,雲霧都追了上來,將我們一一包圍。</div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53044967167/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9573"><img alt="IMG_9573" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53044967167_4a317db723_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53044966982/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9575"><img alt="IMG_9575" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53044966982_5d5c07b018_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div>5點之前,登頂閂山,H3168M,二等三角點1467。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53045552281/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9582"><img alt="IMG_9582" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53045552281_f375123bd5_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53045552451/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9581"><img alt="IMG_9581" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53045552451_cf089764db_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div>恰巧遇到山友大哥拿出筆墨(水一沖就會消失的深色液體),找了塊石板揮毫,留下豪邁奔放的閂山兩字,原來鈴鳴山的石板也出自大哥之手。</div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53045730514/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9585"><img alt="IMG_9585" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53045730514_fec3e31495_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53046043498/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9586"><img alt="IMG_9586" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53046043498_22d9f7952b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div>簡單拍完照後,速速折返,但體力下降,腳步也變慢了,就連緩下的傳統路線都有種走不完的念頭。</div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53044966767/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9594"><img alt="IMG_9594" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53044966767_90aeaaccf5_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53045937440/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9598"><img alt="IMG_9598" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53045937440_f367f180bc_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53045552026/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9601"><img alt="IMG_9601" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53045552026_32451235ba_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53045939605/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9615"><img alt="IMG_9615" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53045939605_14f843342f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div></div><div>此刻雲海從四面湧入,翻過山嶺,作勢要倒入耳無溪河谷中。夕陽的餘暉在一層一層雲隙中發亮著,即使趕著回營地,還是要停下腳步欣賞一番。</div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53045732634/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9605"><img alt="IMG_9605" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53045732634_3a03b6a79c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53045554231/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9612"><img alt="IMG_9612" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53045554231_25afcd4ff4_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div><div>最後,不得以還是要戴上頭燈,還是摸了一點小黑,才回到營地。結論就是,若從傳統路線登上閂山,從金明真路順勢去工寮很快,但要上閂山,還是選擇傳統路線就好。</div></div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53044968697/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9622"><img alt="IMG_9622" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53044968697_5b0a3e6550_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53046045563/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9623"><img alt="IMG_9623" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53046045563_8cbf9862de_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div>第三天,即便只是原路踢林道回去,仍是要早早拔營出發,一來怕變天,要換上雨衣褲實在很麻煩,上車前還要脫掉,想到心就累。</div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53045939565/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9628"><img alt="IMG_9628" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53045939565_327c613f5a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53045732384/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9631"><img alt="IMG_9631" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53045732384_d3c6642c06_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div>二者要早早回到11.7K等接駁車,曲折蜿蜒又破爛的林道,能會車處實在不多,接駁車常常見人就收,滿了就開走。下一批接駁車再出現,就是半小時以後,上不了車就只能在苦等。</div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53046045348/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9632"><img alt="IMG_9632" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53046045348_a9aacc4d35_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53045553921/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9633"><img alt="IMG_9633" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53045553921_1e49de56f0_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53045553871/in/album-72177720309763790/" title="IMG_9641"><img alt="IMG_9641" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53045553871_bd06503112_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div>最後,還是在接駁處等了好一會。</div><div><br /></div><div>這也無可奈何,連假期間,就是人多。但隊伍也不至於多到誇張,畢竟730林道的接駁額度有限,就先篩掉一些人,若不是受暈車影響,這趟應該可以走得更愜意吧。<br /><br /></div><div>補充:</div><div>接駁車載著一行人回到台北後,在劍潭放第一批人下車,接著要驅車前往下一站竹科管理局。</div><div>就在我陪Celia走去承德路搭客運後,正要走進劍潭捷運站時,就收到群組訊息,接駁車在原地拋錨,無法發動,回新竹的隊友只好改去搭高鐵,於是又與大家在劍潭捷運站月台碰頭,再次解散。</div><div><br /></div>
2019.06Laxichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04802970745091107114noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37782309.post-7975910801829074292023-07-14T16:22:00.006+08:002023-07-14T16:22:57.570+08:00 Wings for Life World Run 2019 台灣台中賽道<div>從2016年開始,連續第4年參加Wings for Life World Run。繼宜蘭市、台南將軍、桃園青埔之後,這次來到台中后里,地點就在麗寶樂園的賽車場,可以進入賽車場跑步,也挺令人期待的。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53040459542/in/album-72177720309715605/" title="IMG_20190505_141555"><img alt="IMG_20190505_141555" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53040459542_0b7498679f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><span><a name='more'></a></span><div><br /></div><div>這是個悶熱的星期日,午後便開車來到麗寶樂園,早點來報到,兌換物資袋。門口又見到熟悉的Mini Cooper紅牛車,但這回換成了敞篷版的Mini Cooper。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53041437490/in/album-72177720309715605/" title="IMG_20190504_162135"><img alt="IMG_20190504_162135" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53041437490_79a657c42e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53041437495/in/album-72177720309715605/" title="IMG_20190504_162146"><img alt="IMG_20190504_162146" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53041437495_88819f3eb3_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /></div><div>物資袋中最重要的是附有晶片的號碼布,因為是跑給終結者號的車子追,一旦被終結者號追過,比賽就結束。</div><div><br /></div><div>其他物資不外乎是手冊、毛巾、飲品與跑衣,這屆的跑衣與桃園場相同顏色,都是白色,比宜蘭與台南場的亮黃色好多了,但其實最想要工作人員身上深藍色的衣服。</div><div><br /></div><div>因為賽事是全球同時起跑,台灣是夜間賽,所以還會附上一個能夠穿戴在身上的LED燈。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53041532858/in/album-72177720309715605/" title="IMG_20190504_162408"><img alt="IMG_20190504_162408" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53041532858_feffcf69f5_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53041232909/in/album-72177720309715605/" title="IMG_20190504_162413"><img alt="IMG_20190504_162413" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53041232909_f59d59daa4_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53041232904/in/album-72177720309715605/" title="IMG_20190504_162459"><img alt="IMG_20190504_162459" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53041232904_4c33bfee7f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>趁著人不多,先進入會場逛逛。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53041232574/in/album-72177720309715605/" title="IMG_20190505_142502"><img alt="IMG_20190505_142502" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53041232574_8da766268c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>走入麗寶國際賽車場(Lihpao Racing Park)的迎賓大樓,有展示許多經典賽車,偏偏我都拍糊了。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53041232789/in/album-72177720309715605/" title="IMG_20190505_141132"><img alt="IMG_20190505_141132" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53041232789_b3d38414e5_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53041532663/in/album-72177720309715605/" title="IMG_20190505_141144"><img alt="IMG_20190505_141144" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53041532663_8aeb94dd99_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53041532458/in/album-72177720309715605/" title="IMG_20190505_141950"><img alt="IMG_20190505_141950" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53041532458_1fc4f1f221_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>讓大人看了熱血沸騰的展區外,精品販售區也有小朋友的小賽車及相關商品,會讓大人荷包大失血。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53041054381/in/album-72177720309715605/" title="IMG_20190505_141215"><img alt="IMG_20190505_141215" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53041054381_61cc4d5b4f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53041532588/in/album-72177720309715605/" title="IMG_20190505_141247"><img alt="IMG_20190505_141247" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53041532588_5a25ebf29b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>看到熟悉的身影,Vespa GTS 300,前東家 Taikoo代理的重型機車。這輛GTS 300又有些許的不同,車燈位置不在龍頭上,改去前輪飾蓋上了,配上古典的淡綠色,挺好看的。</div><div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53041437365/in/album-72177720309715605/" title="IMG_20190505_140338"><img alt="IMG_20190505_140338" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53041437365_4f287d0226_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53041436650/in/album-72177720309715605/" title="IMG_20190505_214557"><img alt="IMG_20190505_214557" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53041436650_a792e04547_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /></div></div><div><br /></div><div>接著往主會場前進,穿出大門來到賽事大樓外,會場就在賽道的PIT維修區跑道。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53041054341/in/album-72177720309715605/" title="IMG_20190505_141245"><img alt="IMG_20190505_141245" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53041054341_fb13d73e4e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53041437230/in/album-72177720309715605/" title="IMG_20190505_141449"><img alt="IMG_20190505_141449" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53041437230_896a44802f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>小販攤車都還在張羅著,想找點吃的,卻沒東西可買。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53041054286/in/album-72177720309715605/" title="IMG_20190505_141506"><img alt="IMG_20190505_141506" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53041054286_6ed35f3612_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>主賽道上兩輛Toyota RAV4,就是這次的終結者號(Catcher Car)擔當。與往常一樣,賽道沒有終點線,跑者起跑30分鐘後,以14km/hr的速度,每30分鐘提高 1km/hr來追跑者,直到被終結者號超越為止。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53040459567/in/album-72177720309715605/" title="IMG_20190505_141538"><img alt="IMG_20190505_141538" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53040459567_65e4153c82_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53041437095/in/album-72177720309715605/" title="IMG_20190505_141633"><img alt="IMG_20190505_141633" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53041437095_3f0b881d73_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>上一次站在賽車跑道上,已經是多年前去新加坡看F1的時候,比賽跑完開放跑道方便疏散觀眾,但新加坡是街道賽,這次才算是真正踏上賽道。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53041532538/in/album-72177720309715605/" title="IMG_20190505_141526"><img alt="IMG_20190505_141526" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53041532538_70b0624c73_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53041436960/in/album-72177720309715605/" title="IMG_20190505_170536"><img alt="IMG_20190505_170536" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53041436960_972d921874_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>早點進到來會場,人不多,與終結者號拍照不用等,背景也不會有其他人,只是天氣太悶,待不久,轉進他處。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53041532793/in/album-72177720309715605/" title="IMG_20190505_140030"><img alt="IMG_20190505_140030" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53041532793_0a1545e0c0_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>不少跑者就直接在迎賓大廳內席地而坐,殺時間,但是全球一起起跑,起跑時間是台灣晚上7點,這之前還是先走Outlet Mall的美食區,先填飽肚子再說。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53041054156/in/album-72177720309715605/" title="IMG_20190505_164258"><img alt="IMG_20190505_164258" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53041054156_a34db3b556_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53040459492/in/album-72177720309715605/" title="IMG_20190505_145907"><img alt="IMG_20190505_145907" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53040459492_047217d565_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>時間差不多了,再回到主會場,人潮也漸漸湧入,測試的工作人員也不斷地在終結者號周圍再三測試。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53040459397/in/album-72177720309715605/" title="IMG_20190505_170416"><img alt="IMG_20190505_170416" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53040459397_2cce35daa3_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53041054016/in/album-72177720309715605/" title="IMG_20190505_170625"><img alt="IMG_20190505_170625" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53041054016_560ceb2a42_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div>今天的主持人也與往年一樣,由DJ Dennis控場,不過目前主舞台上空無一人。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53040459282/in/album-72177720309715605/" title="IMG_20190505_171116"><img alt="IMG_20190505_171116" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53040459282_599ef7d92e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53041437010/in/album-72177720309715605/" title="IMG_20190505_170214"><img alt="IMG_20190505_170214" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53041437010_38b23d6bc3_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>每年參加這場Wings for Life World Run,除了賽制很有趣之外,每每看到Run for Those Who Can't,就有股感動油然而生,雖然只是來跑步,但主辦單位會將活動報名費全數捐給那些脊髓損傷治癒方法研究的研究單位,就好像自己也做了件幫助別人且有意義的事情。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53041232504/in/album-72177720309715605/" title="IMG_20190505_170454"><img alt="IMG_20190505_170454" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53041232504_ed6748822f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53040459342/in/album-72177720309715605/" title="IMG_20190505_170459"><img alt="IMG_20190505_170459" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53040459342_86a6dcee70_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>天色漸漸暗下,時間差不多了,依照自己填寫的目標里程而分配的起跑區就定位。這屆的活動大使有羽球球后戴資穎,她肯定是在最前排,無緣看見。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53040459237/in/album-72177720309715605/" title="IMG_20190505_183232"><img alt="IMG_20190505_183232" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53040459237_8be57ff5de_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53041532198/in/album-72177720309715605/" title="IMG_20190505_184901"><img alt="IMG_20190505_184901" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53041532198_bbc8a12a29_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53041232294/in/album-72177720309715605/" title="IMG_20190505_190052"><img alt="IMG_20190505_190052" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53041232294_e03c2a0cc3_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>跑在賽道上蠻令人興奮的,這才知道原來賽道兩側紅白條紋的路緣石是有前後高低差的,突然恍然大悟。但賽道的燈光實在太暗,在跑動的狀態下,弱弱的手機怎麼拍都是糊的。</div><div><br /></div><div>繞了一圈賽道後,接著跑到場外一般道路,沿著月眉東路一段、甲后路三段,轉入六支巷路,跑進鄉間小路,開始人擠人,想超車也超不了,跑步節奏一整個打亂。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53041053866/in/album-72177720309715605/" title="IMG_20190505_195330"><img alt="IMG_20190505_195330" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53041053866_8f26ce8be8_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>六支巷路再轉入六分路,順時鐘繞行,接著右轉再接上永眉路與水頭二路。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53041232234/in/album-72177720309715605/" title="IMG_20190505_200700"><img alt="IMG_20190505_200700" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53041232234_84b4c67468_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>不知道是誰規劃設計路線的....從永眉路開始轉為上坡,水頭二路更是魔王級上坡,還帶有髮夾彎,不少人停下腳步,轉為步兵模式。想當然,就塞車了,想超車也無能為力。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53041436775/in/album-72177720309715605/" title="IMG_20190505_200801"><img alt="IMG_20190505_200801" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53041436775_f307876ccb_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53040459172/in/album-72177720309715605/" title="IMG_20190505_201044"><img alt="IMG_20190505_201044" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53040459172_5900ddb225_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>既然超不了車,就一起加入步兵模式。過了一會,從後方傳來此起彼落的歡樂尖叫聲,這肯定是終結者號要追上來了,不少人聞訊便又提起腳步奔跑,試圖再拉遠一些距離。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53040459177/in/album-72177720309715605/" title="IMG_20190505_201144"><img alt="IMG_20190505_201144" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53040459177_bd68e52761_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>都已經被追3年了,不足為奇,老神在在地繼續走。沒一會,兩輛終結者號陸續從身旁刷過,其中一輛終結者號的駕駛是Youtuber網紅呱吉,路跑結束。</div><div><br /></div><div>話說,終結者號要在這種小路上與跑者併行,也太難為了,希望大會下回規劃路線,還是挑大馬路比較適合。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53041232179/in/album-72177720309715605/" title="IMG_20190505_201306"><img alt="IMG_20190505_201306" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53041232179_164204d5b0_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53041232154/in/album-72177720309715605/" title="IMG_20190505_201407"><img alt="IMG_20190505_201407" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53041232154_23102487c8_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>被擊墜的跑者,有的繼續跑,但這種悶熱的夏天,用走的就好,更何況山坡還沒翻完,麗寶的摩天輪都還躲在山後。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53041053706/in/album-72177720309715605/" title="IMG_20190505_201556"><img alt="IMG_20190505_201556" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53041053706_7622b52828_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53041532033/in/album-72177720309715605/" title="IMG_20190505_201925"><img alt="IMG_20190505_201925" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53041532033_50628f3b97_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53041531973/in/album-72177720309715605/" title="IMG_20190505_203339"><img alt="IMG_20190505_203339" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53041531973_bed4b9b9c6_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>走回會場,換一罐紅牛消消暑氣,回到活動舞台前看全球賽道的直播,看看今年誰是全球撐最久的跑者。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53041532008/in/album-72177720309715605/" title="IMG_20190505_210724"><img alt="IMG_20190505_210724" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53041532008_ed0e2bafca_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53040459067/in/album-72177720309715605/" title="IMG_20190505_210917"><img alt="IMG_20190505_210917" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53040459067_10a0a3b516_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>不過今年的實況轉播挺掉漆的,以往都會實況轉播到最後一刻,這次全球男子與女子第一都還沒產生,轉播訊號就被切斷,莫名其妙的結束。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53041436600/in/album-72177720309715605/" title="Screenshot_20190505-201742"><img alt="Screenshot_20190505-201742" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53041436600_e84abb6397_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/53041531923/in/album-72177720309715605/" title="Screenshot_20190505-201757"><img alt="Screenshot_20190505-201757" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53041531923_6cba22e66a_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div>這次跑了10.49k,比前一年桃園場不到9k的狀況好多了。</div><div><br /></div><div>後記:之後因為Covid-19疫情的關係,不是該年停辦,就是改能APP線上路跑,如今疫情已趨緩,希望台灣站能早日恢復正場舉辦(2023.07筆)。</div><div><br /></div><div>2019.05</div>
Laxichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04802970745091107114noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37782309.post-79924292041984258202023-07-11T16:57:00.002+08:002023-07-11T17:03:52.095+08:00日本宮城追櫻:仙台城.烤牛舌「伊達の牛たん本舗」<div><div>這一趟的百名城,一路從函館五稜郭,來到東北的盛岡城、多賀城,戳章入手蠻多的,大有收穫。另外還有續百名城的白石城、櫻花滿滿的船岡城跡,可惜就差趕著去松島搭船而放棄的石卷城跡。最後的最後,就用東北霸主伊達政宗的據點仙台城作收尾!</div></div><div>(其實是被其他人的行程排擠到最後的最後)</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059631865/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9288"><img alt="IMG_9288" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059631865_7fe5ae6f90_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><span><a name='more'></a></span><div><br /></div><div>搭著仙山線從山寺回到仙台駅,連午餐也沒去想,馬上換搭地下鐵東西線,奔往國際中心駅。畢竟晚上7點的飛機,時間剩不多,要吃什麼到<a href="https://www.honmarukaikan.com/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">仙台城</a>內再說。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059628340/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9208"><img alt="IMG_9208" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059628340_c95b54be07_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059628945/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9210_stitch"><img alt="IMG_9210_stitch" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059628945_a9c4167ff8_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>國際中心駅離以前的仙台城並不遠,位置在以前城外武士屋敷的區域,南面的仙台國際中心大約就是過去水澤伊達家的屋敷,與水澤伊達家隔著馬路對望的,是白石城片倉小十郎的屋敷,也就是現在的仙臺綠彩館。</div><div><br /></div><div>我們從西出口1出來後,順著馬路往南行,馬路的另一側,是東北大學川內校區,是昔日幕府對仙台租稅徵收的戡定所,以及仙台城二之丸。</div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059181678/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9212"><img alt="IMG_9212" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059181678_87e072c9ba_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div>馬路還沒走到底,已經開始爬坡了,來到T字路口,斜度又更陡了!</div><div><br /></div><div>雖然仙台城是座平山城,但比我預期的還要吃力一些,但是除了走路之外,我們好像也沒有甚麼其他選項,頂多就是選擇從比較遠的大町西公園駅走過來,經過<a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/12/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">看夜櫻的西公園</a>,跨過廣瀨川上名為大橋的大橋,來到這個T字路口,也就是大手門前方,便是昔日進城的主要路線。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059384634/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9215_stitch"><img alt="IMG_9215_stitch" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059384634_06bc55aee6_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>從大橋過來,進入仙台城之前大手門,道路左右兩側有多聞塀及脇櫓,多聞塀是仙台城唯一現存的建物。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059384704/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9213"><img alt="IMG_9213" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059384704_cc7c3d519e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>脇櫓在昭和6年(1931年)被指定為國寶,在昭和20年(1945年)的仙台大空襲中遭到祝融,付之一炬。如今看到的脇櫓,是昭和42年(1967年)重新建造的建物,但大手門就沒有再建造了。</div><div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059633230/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9217"><img alt="IMG_9217" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059633230_cdcfc5929d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059384554/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9218"><img alt="IMG_9218" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059384554_dc668d1d6c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /></div></div><div><br /></div><div>大手門沒了,取而代之的是支倉常長的銅像。支倉常長是伊達家的家臣,曾隨主公伊達政宗鎮壓鎮壓葛西大崎一揆的暴動,以及侵略朝鮮的慶長之役,他的命運從出任歐洲大使後有了轉變。</div><div><br /></div><div><div>16世紀末,西班牙發現了經菲律賓至中國與新西班牙(現今的墨西哥)的新航線,但因為惡劣的海象,商船常在日本海岸附近失事,因而與日本開始了接觸,並把天主教信仰帶入日本。</div><div><br /></div><div>慶長16年(1611年),塞瓦斯蒂安·比斯凱諾(Sebastian Vizcaino)在新西班牙總督路易斯·德維拉斯科(Luis de Velazco)的同意下出任大使抵達日本,藉機探尋一座位在日本東邊的金銀島。但比斯凱諾找尋金銀島的任務在暴風雨的襲擊下失敗,負傷回到日本,江戶幕府便下令伊達政宗打造一艘大型帆船,將比斯凱諾一行人送回新西班牙。</div></div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059633320/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9214"><img alt="IMG_9214" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059633320_80b997f845_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div><div>有一說指出伊達政宗試圖拉攏西班牙,以達成軍事同盟來推翻幕府,因為此時幕府已經對天主教漸漸產生戒備與抵制。無論伊達政宗背後的目的是否真如此說,終究是派了支倉常長,率使節團前往西班牙交涉通商貿易。</div></div><div><br /></div><div><div>支倉常長從慶長18年(1613年)出使歐洲,成為最早被派往歐洲的日本使節之一,雖然通商貿易的交涉以失敗告終,但他在義大利羅馬期間受洗為天主教徒,成為被羅馬授予市民權及貴族地位的第一位日本人。</div><div><br /></div><div>但支倉常長余元和4年(1618年)返回日本,一切變了樣,當時的幕府早已開始清除天主教在日本的影響力,仙台藩也仿效幕府壓制教徒,最後於元和8年(1622年)鬱鬱而終。繼任家督的支倉常賴被發現家臣有基督徒,被仙台藩問罪斬首,支倉氏因此沒落。直到200多年後,明治政府派出岩倉使節團訪察歐美後,支倉常長這名字才又被後人重視。</div></div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059384514/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9219"><img alt="IMG_9219" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059384514_e8d541fc95_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058110542/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9220"><img alt="IMG_9220" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058110542_bb617a0950_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div>中門是從大手門通往本丸的道路所設置的第二道門,也稱為寅門。中門因為老舊損毀,在大正9年(1920年)拆除,據說拆掉的木材拿去建造第二師團長官官邸的大門,也就是現今的宮城縣知事官邸。</div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059633095/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9223"><img alt="IMG_9223" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059633095_f1042c366d_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059384334/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9224"><img alt="IMG_9224" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059384334_d19e018c2f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div>通往本丸的這條路,很直接,就是一直爬坡。從大手門到中門之間,東面是昔日的三之丸(現今的仙台市博物館),三之丸北面有五色沼,東面有長沼,外側更有天然的廣瀨川作為外堀。</div><div><br /></div><div>西面過去是一座中島池,與五色沼及長沼形成環繞仙台城三面的內堀。中島池的另外三面被茂密的自然林圍繞,稱為御裏林,在江戶時代不但禁止砍伐,還禁止進入,並且在山谷與山脊的地形上,挖掘溝渠且構築土壘。</div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059148146/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9226"><img alt="IMG_9226" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059148146_57f4789d83_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div>繼續往本丸前進,這一路上沒有其他人,眼看一輛又一輛車從我們身邊飛馳而過,我們就像攻打城池的足輕,苦命爬著眼前愈來愈陡的坡道,好在有特別規劃人行步道,沒有與車爭道的壓力。</div><div><br /></div><div>話說,仙台城是在關原之戰後的隔年,慶長6年(1601年)開始普請建造,慶長8年(1603年)伊達政宗遷入仙台城,這一年也是德川家康受封征夷大將軍,開啟江戶幕府的年代。因此,仙台城在整個江戶時代未遭戰火襲擊,反而是在二戰期間,被盟軍空襲中受損。</div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059181278/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9229"><img alt="IMG_9229" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059181278_baab69ccf1_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059148096/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9231"><img alt="IMG_9231" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059148096_1b2b6504f7_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059632935/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9232"><img alt="IMG_9232" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059632935_801c269b73_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>伊達氏自古以來就在東北地帶活耀,最早追朔至鎌倉時代,初代中村朝宗是一位法號為常陸入道念西的和尚,藤原北家山蔭流的中村氏,父親中村光隆,母親是源為義的女兒,源為義又被稱為六条判官與陸奥四郎,是源賴朝的祖父,因此與源家關係深厚。</div><div><br /></div><div>結婚生子還俗後,女兒大進局成了源賴朝的側室。在源賴朝征伐藤原氏的奧州合戰中,朝宗率四個兒子加入源賴朝軍,戰後論功行賞獲賜陸奧國伊達郡,因而改姓伊達,伊達朝宗成為伊達氏始祖。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059148041/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9233"><img alt="IMG_9233" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059148041_0fdfc2d641_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059384129/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9234"><img alt="IMG_9234" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059384129_95c53cd2ec_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>不一會,繞過一個髮夾彎,來到本丸北壁石垣下方。石垣的斜面帶有弧度,線條相當優美。解說牌的圖示寫著石牆從內到外共分三期建構,最高處有17公尺高,再加上東面就是垂直的絕壁,古時足輕看到如此難攻的城池,一定相當絕望。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059632895/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9236"><img alt="IMG_9236" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059632895_04d422a5ee_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059147931/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9237"><img alt="IMG_9237" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059147931_a5e39d575a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>建造仙台城的獨眼龍伊達政宗,是伊達氏第17代,出生地在米澤城。米澤城位在陸奥國隔壁的出羽國,原本屬於長井氏的城池,到了南北朝時代,伊達家開始向外擴張勢力,由第8代家督伊達宗遠與第9代家督名字同為伊達政宗,父子一同擊退長井廣房,消滅長井氏後,此後米澤城所在的出羽國置賜郡便納入伊達氏的統轄之下。除此鞏固既有領地之外,伊達政宗大力發展與足利幕府的關係,在朝廷內鬥的南北朝時代,擊退了鎌倉公方,領地大勢擴張,成了伊達氏中興之祖。</div><div><br /></div><div>到了室町時代,在第14代家督伊達稙宗透過聯姻及過繼子女的政策外交下,伊達氏的勢力來到了高峰。但這樣的政策遭到長子伊達晴宗的反對,反目成仇,舉兵反抗,跟伊達有姻親關係的領主全數捲入其中,稱為天文之亂。</div><div><br /></div><div>這場為期6年的伊達家內鬥,在足利幕府介入之後下命停戰,逼著伊達稙宗交出家督之位,伊達晴宗繼任第15代家督,居城從桑折西山城遷至米澤城,伊達家的勢力版圖卻徹底崩潰,也導致東北長期戰亂。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059147891/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9238"><img alt="IMG_9238" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059147891_49cdf7d1ca_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>沿著北壁石垣,邊走邊思索著能如何爬上這帶著弧形的斜面,突然一座銀白色的鳥居出現,看來本丸的入口到了。鳥居是宮城縣護國神社得表參道大鳥居,建在昔日進出本丸的詰門,詰門左前方是御城門,只是這條表參道,可是既不直,也不平緩。</div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059181078/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9242"><img alt="IMG_9242" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059181078_6f7f98ab28_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059147846/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9244"><img alt="IMG_9244" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059147846_17c59f80ae_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059383959/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9245"><img alt="IMG_9245" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059383959_0a361e5968_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div><div>伊達晴宗繼位後,也步上了婚姻外交及入嗣政策之路,對於敵對的相馬氏,也在主戰及主合的立場上,與次子伊達輝宗鬧不合,同樣愈演愈烈,反目成仇。鄰近大名擔心天文之亂再次重演,力勸雙方和解,最後伊達晴宗讓位,伊達輝宗接任家督。</div><div><br /></div><div>伊達輝宗面對國內外的嚴峻環境,一邊交戰,一邊議和,一邊締結友好,一邊鞏固內部,將近20年的努力,伊達家的勢力又如日中天,成為南陸奧的霸者。伊達輝宗因為妹妹彥姬的丈夫蘆名盛隆,過度愛好男色而被殺害,留下襁褓的幼嬰,於是藉此契機,將家督讓位給兒子伊達政宗。</div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059383914/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9247"><img alt="IMG_9247" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059383914_0620ac59a3_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059632770/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9246"><img alt="IMG_9246" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059632770_2b2a7e000c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059147736/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9248"><img alt="IMG_9248" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059147736_35387552ff_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div>踏上本丸第一件事,當然是來蓋章。</div><div><br /></div><div>仙台城百名城戳章放在走進鳥居,爬上兩段階梯後,左手邊的仙台城見聞館內。見聞館的位置是以前大廣間旁的能舞台,以往走訪的城,往往都與肅穆莊嚴連上等號,很少會想到本丸內會有能舞台,這大概是伊達政宗愛好能樂又擅長太鼓的關係吧。</div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058109857/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9255"><img alt="IMG_9255" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058109857_1c5db90c6d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059180708/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9256"><img alt="IMG_9256" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059180708_18fb364d60_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059632575/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9257"><img alt="IMG_9257" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059632575_fb1008182c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div><div><div>伊達政宗出生於永祿10年(1567年),是伊達輝宗與正室義姫所生的長子。義姫是最上義守的女兒,最上義光的妹妹。最上氏的勢力在出羽國,以山形城為居城,與伊達氏也是分分合合,靠著姻親關係勉強維持和睦,直到江戶時代被改易,減封到近江大森。</div><div><br /></div><div>伊達政宗。幼名梵天丸,元服後取名伊達藤次郎政宗。按伊達家過往的慣例,會向京都的足利將軍一字拜領,也就是君主賦予臣子一個字,來表明自己的身分與關係,但因為當時足利義昭被織田信長驅逐,就沒有像將軍索取昭字,而用第9代家督中興之祖的政宗來命名,希望他能振興伊達家。</div></div><div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059383414/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9273"><img alt="IMG_9273" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059383414_049586d0d3_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059383384/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9274"><img alt="IMG_9274" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059383384_26e98c85cd_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /></div></div><div><br /></div><div><div><div>伊達政宗小時候得了天花,5歲時右眼失去視力,容貌變醜,失去母親義姫的寵愛,性格也變得乖僻、內向,被母親與部分家臣認為不適合繼任奧州要職。</div><div><br /></div><div>由於義姫比較寵愛次子小次郎,也就是伊達政道,甚至有兄弟爭奪家督的流言。後來伊達政宗繼承家督,在出陣小田原之前,受義姫之邀走訪黑川城,卻遭義姫在膳食中下毒。然而,毒殺未成,對立來到頂點,逃過毒殺的伊達政宗,將小次郎斬殺作為報復,義姫害怕也遭到毒手,躲回最上氏統領的山形,晚年修復關係後,才又回到仙台。</div></div></div><div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059632550/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9259"><img alt="IMG_9259" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059632550_8c4eb97250_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059632540/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9260"><img alt="IMG_9260" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059632540_0d048856b4_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /></div></div><div><br /></div><div><div>伊達政宗打造仙台城前,先是以出生的米澤城為居城,也有一說是在館山城出生。繼任家督之後,無視豐臣秀吉的惣無事令,發動摺上原之戰,討伐蘆名義廣,攻破黑川城(現今的若松城)。蘆名氏被消滅後,伊達政宗將居城從米澤城遷至黑川城,伊達的勢力滲入整個會津及奧州,創建伊達氏史上最大的勢力版圖,卻也引起豐臣秀吉的不滿。</div><div><br /></div><div>之後,豐臣秀吉號召大名圍攻後北條氏的小田原城,伊達政宗姍姍來遲;又在協助蒲生氏鄉平定葛西大崎一揆,被懷疑與與一揆軍有內通,於是遭到豐臣秀吉減轉封至岩出山城。</div></div><div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058109597/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9268"><img alt="IMG_9268" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058109597_abc3e92b40_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059632265/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9269"><img alt="IMG_9269" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059632265_c1b9c03da2_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div></div></div><div>德川家康為了拉攏伊達政宗加入東軍,與伊達政宗簽訂「百萬石御墨付(百万石の御墨付)」也就是戰勝後會加封伊達政宗領地,將原本被豐臣秀吉沒收的舊領地歸還,到時領地將增加到超過百萬石。</div><div><br /></div><div>雖然這在伊達政宗的有生之年都沒兌現過,有可能是因為德川家康對仍抱著警戒心,畢竟這位野心勃勃的獨眼龍,是抱著"爭奪天下的打算"、"有朝一日或許會與德川家爆發戰爭"的考量下,打造出最堅固的仙台城。</div><div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058109692/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9265"><img alt="IMG_9265" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058109692_b8f059bce3_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058109647/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9266"><img alt="IMG_9266" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058109647_a3e3377f84_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /></div></div><div><br /></div><div>在伊達政宗建造仙台城之前,仙台城的位置上就已經存在一座名為千代城的城池,也因此仙台的古名為千代。相傳,千代城從鎌倉時代末期就存在於此,一直到室町時代中期都作為島津陸奧守的居城。天文之亂爆發,國分氏在奧州戰亂之際,一邊與伊達氏協調,一邊推進領地,入駐千代城,後來與伊達政宗對立而逃走,千代城廢城。</div><div><br /></div><div>千代城的命名源自興建的位置上有千尊佛像,也有說是希望城池能繁榮昌盛數千代。千代城的地理位置相當優越,就如一路走上來所見,東面有斷崖與廣瀨川,西面有茂密的御裏林,南面有稱為龍之口的溪谷(竜の口渓谷)。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059180633/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9261"><img alt="IMG_9261" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059180633_b754c29b3e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059180588/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9262"><img alt="IMG_9262" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059180588_c41c8a3a37_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059180568/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9263"><img alt="IMG_9263" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059180568_e4dddbee19_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059632435/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9264_1"><img alt="IMG_9264_1" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059632435_efaa579f34_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /></div></div><div><br /></div><div>在豐臣秀吉對伊達氏的圍堵政策下,岩出山城成了伊達政宗的居城,一待就將近20年。文祿5年(1596年)伊達政宗攻陷千代城,關原之戰後,岩出山城在伊達政宗整個領地內,太過偏北,於是看中千代城這個交通要道的位置,陸路有東海道從常陸國沿著太平洋沿岸延伸的海道,連接從東山道進入奧州的山道。海陸則北有廣瀨川,南有名取川,兩川匯流後在閖上注入太平洋。</div><div><br /></div><div>慶長6年(1601年)在這座青葉山丘陵上,打造出一座易守難攻的平山城。用阿伊努語中廣瀨川的發音(也有說是河川入口的發音),將其取名為仙台,並有青葉城的雅稱。</div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059632370/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9267"><img alt="IMG_9267" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059632370_3db5a702fd_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058109487/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9271"><img alt="IMG_9271" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058109487_9f42c90312_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059147246/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9272"><img alt="IMG_9272" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059147246_f37ba3f172_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /></div></div><div><br /></div><div>看完見聞館內的大廣間模型與資料,現在來外面看看實際場景。古時穿過詰門及御城門後,就是仙台藩藩主處理政務的大廣間,也是藩主與家臣會面的地方,是本丸御殿中的主要建築物。</div><div><br /></div><div>據考證,大廣間相當華麗,慶長15年 (1610年)建成,面積可撲滿430張塌塌米的大型建築,除了藩主的上段之間,更有獻給天皇及將軍的上上段之間,只是天皇與幕府將軍都沒有來訪過就是了,如今只剩下地面上的基石。</div><div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059147716/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9250"><img alt="IMG_9250" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059147716_026caa0247_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059632670/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9251"><img alt="IMG_9251" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059632670_83c7d6c360_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059632655/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9252"><img alt="IMG_9252" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059632655_076027fc03_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059383789/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9253"><img alt="IMG_9253" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059383789_2e09857c8d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /></div></div><div><br /></div><div>見聞館的後方,也就是北壁石垣的上方,有座石垣修復的紀念碑,並且在見聞館一側,展示伊達政宗築城時期與第4代藩主伊達綱村時期石垣崩落重新修復的兩種不同工法。</div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059632155/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9275"><img alt="IMG_9275" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059632155_3f990abf33_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059147046/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9279"><img alt="IMG_9279" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059147046_5569b3f418_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059632115/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9278"><img alt="IMG_9278" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059632115_ceab3d1262_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058109307/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9280"><img alt="IMG_9280" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058109307_68a395679e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div>東面石垣與北面石垣的邊角上,昔日有座艮櫓。東面地形是斷崖的關係,居高臨下,視野相當的好。除了大廣間外,東面的懸崖峭壁上,有一間與京都清水寺懸造相似的建物,數寄屋式書院式建築,用來接待賓客,據說在元和2年(1616年)倒塌,現在已經都不存在了。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059631035/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9333"><img alt="IMG_9333" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059631035_4c801fb7a9_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059383169/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9281"><img alt="IMG_9281" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059383169_50bd783fe3_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div><div>在慶長18年(1613年),塞瓦斯蒂安·比斯凱諾(Sebastian Vizcaino)乘坐仙台藩建造的聖胡安包蒂斯塔號 (サン・ファン・バウティスタ号)回國,與同行出任大使的支倉常長談到仙台城,讚賞這座城是日本最厲害、最堅固的城池之一,深川圍繞百身長懸崖,橫越陡峭懸崖的嚴山而建,規模大小與江戶城相同,家屋的結構更是凌駕於上,遠方還能遙望數公里的海岸線。</div><div><br /></div><div>如今樓房林立,海岸線已躲了起來,能看到的遠方就是眼前的仙台市中心了。</div></div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058109267/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9282_stitch"><img alt="IMG_9282_stitch" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058109267_9e0aefdea7_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059180113/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9285"><img alt="IMG_9285" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059180113_5afe905053_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><div>伊達政宗時期的仙台城,只有建造本丸及西之丸,除了暗門之外,出入口僅有一處,由於山上與山下聯繫不便。在伊達政宗過世後,繼任家督的二代藩主伊達忠宗,在山麓平坦處建造二之丸,隔年便將住所移至二之丸,政務也移了過去,漸漸地,二之丸就成了仙台城的中樞。</div><div><br /></div><div>有趣的是,仙台城雖然有天守台,但為了不引起德川幕府的猜忌,始終沒有建造天守閣。天守台的位置在護國神社的區域內,禁止進入,無緣一睹樣貌。</div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059632010/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9284"><img alt="IMG_9284" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059632010_63f1f8be18_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059147141/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9276"><img alt="IMG_9276" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059147141_88fb341276_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>有位穿著古裝的人物,在伊達政宗的銅像附近晃來晃去的,走近一瞧,原來是<a href="https://datebusyou.jp/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">伊達武將隊</a>的片倉景綱。</div><div><br /></div><div>等等!你不是<a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/07/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">白石城</a>城主,怎麼跑來仙台城蹓躂。話說,你的主公也跑去蹓躂了,我前天才在<a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/10/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">田代島</a>看到帶著粉絲出遊的伊達政宗。</div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059383014/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9286"><img alt="IMG_9286" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059383014_c56932a335_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52898742396/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="11111111"><img alt="11111111" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52898742396_4bc1442582_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>伊達政宗騎著馬的銅像,身著五枚胴盔甲,不對稱金色月牙的三日月兜,威風凜凜,頗有氣勢,雖然失明從此紮起眼罩,有了獨眼龍政宗的稱號,但囑咐下人畫他的時候,一定要畫上雙眼,所以銅像也不例外。</div><div><br /></div><div>這座伊達政宗騎馬像是昭和10年(1935年)紀念伊達政宗逝世300年,由雕刻家小室達以慶長6年(1601年)伊達政宗騎著馬進入初竣工仙台城的樣貌所製作。</div><div><br /></div><div>二戰時期,資源吃緊,軍需生產的金屬在國家總動員法下,這座銅像也難逃上繳回收的命運。現在看到的是第二代的騎馬像,是昭和39年(1964年)在仙台市民的要求下,以原本的石膏模重新鑄造,在東京奧運開幕式的前一天揭幕,伊達政宗騎馬像再次矗立在仙台城上。</div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059146891/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9287"><img alt="IMG_9287" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059146891_fa3dd323f0_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059179963/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9295"><img alt="IMG_9295" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059179963_ab40359dc5_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>在初代騎馬像被充公後,用了一尊由雕刻家柳原義達製作的伊達政宗公平和像取而代之。在二代騎馬像復元後,移至岩出山城擺放。二代騎馬像的原型試作品,則是放在岩沼市竹駒神社的馬事博物館內。</div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058109082/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9293"><img alt="IMG_9293" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058109082_66f9b9d572_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div>騎馬像附近有一座高度更高的昭忠碑,紀念自明治初期士族大規模叛亂的佐賀之亂、西鄉隆盛發動最後一場內戰的西南戰爭、簽訂馬關條約獲得遼東半島、台灣、澎湖的日清戰爭(又稱甲午戰爭),那些明治新政府軍及陸軍第二師團的陣亡將士。</div><div><br /></div><div>紀念碑的正前方是鵄的鳥像,《日本書紀》這本記述神代至持統天皇時代的正史中,是帶領神武天皇軍隊取得勝利的金鳶。原本鳥像佇立在紀念碑上方,因為地震掉落,所以就放置在紀念碑前方。</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058109022/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9296"><img alt="IMG_9296" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058109022_a5156ef95a_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059146761/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9298"><img alt="IMG_9298" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059146761_eeee1fab2f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div>本丸上面已經沒有什麼當時留下來的建築物,據說大部分的建築物保留到江戶末期,之後就被意外或戰爭的大火燒毀。本丸南側的部分被認為是奧的建物,雖然有與大廣間相連,但是屬於藩主私人的空間,現在已是青葉城資料展示館,還有就是<a href="https://www.dategyu.jp/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">伊達牛舌本舗青葉城店</a>。</div>
<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059179848/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9301"><img alt="IMG_9301" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059179848_bcaebaee6c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059382569/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9312"><img alt="IMG_9312" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059382569_232c35a479_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>青葉城店下午3點就打烊,離打烊還有半小時多,在1樓商品販售區詢問了一下,還是願意供餐,便領著我們到2樓用餐區。</div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059146676/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9302"><img alt="IMG_9302" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059146676_c30db2b63f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059179728/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9305"><img alt="IMG_9305" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059179728_1c58bd748e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>店內已經沒有其他客人,我們可算是包場了,烤台飄出的香味更是明顯,靠著山寺的蒟蒻丸子與霜淇淋撐到現在,早已飢腸轆轆的我們,三兩下就將眼前的牛舌完食。</div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059146661/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9303"><img alt="IMG_9303" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059146661_4021df609b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059146641/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9304"><img alt="IMG_9304" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059146641_a24a6cd7f1_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div>青葉城資料展示館再往南,便是本丸的埋門。埋門也沒有遺跡了,現在是座鳥居,外側規畫成停車場,再過去,就是險峻的龍之口溪谷。</div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059179608/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9309_1"><img alt="IMG_9309_1" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059179608_7a60de4c22_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div>青葉城資料展示館內有仙台城與大廣間的CG電腦特效影像,但我剛剛把額度都用在烤牛舌加量上面,沒錢買票看了,只能翻翻伊達武將隊的月刊。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059382814/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9300"><img alt="IMG_9300" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059382814_66d50c8a88_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059179558/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9311"><img alt="IMG_9311" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059179558_cae0071167_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059631605/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9306"><img alt="IMG_9306" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059631605_9df4e21aa2_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059179658/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9307"><img alt="IMG_9307" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059179658_b007e2a72c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /></div></div><div>館外有介紹城牆的石頭是如何從巨石分割成一塊塊方正可堆疊的石頭。也有大手門的重建復元聯署,不知道外國人的簽名會不會被列入計票,總之先簽再說。</div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059382554/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9314"><img alt="IMG_9314" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059382554_9ecf0f0dea_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /></div><div><br /></div>根據令和2年(2020年)的調查發現,與大手門相連並在昭和42年(1967年)重新建造的脇櫓,與空襲燒毀前的樣貌不同,因此預計在2030年的時候拆除,與大手門一起重建。<br />
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059382519/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9315"><img alt="IMG_9315" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059382519_50f5568f24_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div>供遊客合影拍照的人物立牌,伊達政宗的臉部上還多做了一個眼罩,遮住遊客的右眼,到是挺逗趣的。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059382659/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9308"><img alt="IMG_9308" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059382659_05178b8660_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><div><br /></div><div>伊達政宗創下比父祖輩更大的版圖,有著東北第一霸主的名號,這股東北崛起的勢力,假如早生個20年,說不定天下真的是伊達政宗的囊中物。</div><div><div><br /></div><div>江戶時代的伊達政宗,努力打造仙台,積極加強與幕府的關係,奠定仙台藩在幕府的地位,在外樣大名中,僅次於百萬石的加賀藩前田氏,以及稱霸九州擁有77萬石的薩摩島津氏。仙台藩石高62萬石,除了第4代藩主伊達綱村年幼繼位,引爆寬文事件的伊達騷動,之後便相安無事直到幕末。</div></div></div><div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058108532/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9318"><img alt="IMG_9318" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058108532_9a4ea3eb59_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059631235/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9319"><img alt="IMG_9319" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059631235_4f21762caf_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059631220/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9320"><img alt="IMG_9320" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059631220_99e55f28c0_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /></div></div><div><br /></div></div><div><div>幕末,奧羽越列藩同盟敗給薩摩藩長州藩聯軍,被視為叛軍的仙台藩第13代伊達慶邦,官銜、領地、甚至仙台城都被沒收,以樂山的名號隱居。</div><div><br /></div><div>繼任的伊達宗基成了末代藩主,遭到明治新政府減封,從62萬石減為28萬石,實際甚至低於10萬石。廢藩置縣後,伊達氏受封為伯爵。</div></div><div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059382314/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9321"><img alt="IMG_9321" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059382314_7a115a8289_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059382289/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9322"><img alt="IMG_9322" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059382289_ff4b44190c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /></div></div><div><br /></div><div><div>進入明治時代後,新政府於明治4年(1871年)在仙台設置東北鎮台,鎮台是新政府陸軍的編成單位。之後頒布廢城令,也就是《全国城郭存廃ノ処分並兵営地等撰定方》,戊辰戰爭後從陸奧國分割出的陸前國之境內,只有仙台城被選為存城,岩出山城、岩沼城、涌谷城、高清水城都淪為廢城的命運。</div><div><br /></div><div>明治21年(1888年),東北鎮台改編為大日本帝國陸軍第二師團,由東北鎮台最後一任司令官佐久間左馬太,轉任第二師團初代團長,也就是後來第5任的台灣總督。</div></div><div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059631770/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9299"><img alt="IMG_9299" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059631770_742120a55d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div></div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059146396/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9316"><img alt="IMG_9316" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059146396_e3c534c38e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div>從明治維新到大東亞戰爭,為了弔念那些出生於宮城縣的陣亡將士,明治37年(1902年)在本丸上建起了招魂社,成為宮城神社,昭和14年(1939年)由内務大臣指定為<a href="https://gokokujinja.org/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">宮城縣護國神社</a>。據說,裡面不供奉戊辰戰爭中陣亡的幕府軍。</div><div><br /></div><div>神社在仙台大空襲中燒毀,在昭和28年(1953年)伊勢神宮式年遷宮之際,將外宮的風宮的正殿搬遷過來,並將茅草屋頂改為鍍銅,將其作為神社本殿。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059146221/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9324_stitch"><img alt="IMG_9324_stitch" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059146221_c0e04c5b13_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059382269/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9327"><img alt="IMG_9327" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059382269_2615ea6f6f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><div>與大部分的存城相同,缺乏維護金廢的仙台城遭到出售,宮城神社出資買下本丸。由於仙台市不願見到這樣的局面,出面交涉與收購,如今本丸一部分及西之丸屬於神社,本丸另一部分屬於仙台市。</div></div><div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059146381/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9317"><img alt="IMG_9317" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059146381_9a9c6e29ca_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /></div></div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058108332/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9328"><img alt="IMG_9328" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058108332_64360c8907_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058108307/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9329"><img alt="IMG_9329" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058108307_447fd54a45_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div>下山的腳步輕盈多了,居然有阿伯騎單車上來,真心佩服。</div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058108252/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9336"><img alt="IMG_9336" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058108252_403bf1d5b5_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058108202/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9340"><img alt="IMG_9340" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058108202_cb4ff1dae4_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>原路返回的半途,改從沢門下切到三之丸,過去的沢門已經無影無蹤,只剩下解說牌。</div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059179013/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9342"><img alt="IMG_9342" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059179013_8d7383f3f5_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058108077/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9344"><img alt="IMG_9344" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058108077_f983d33f91_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div>沿途可見的荒草樹林中,仍可見到工整的石垣,一路下到平緩處,便是進入三之丸的清水門。</div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059145901/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9346_stitch"><img alt="IMG_9346_stitch" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059145901_822e302462_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058108002/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9350"><img alt="IMG_9350" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058108002_a8b0773882_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div>儲放米的米藏及造酒屋敷都在三之丸,仙台藩御用酒就從這裡出品。御用酒的水源取自附近的湧水,是有次伊達政宗受幕府將軍劍術導師柳生宗則的招待,喝到美味的清酒,於是邀請一位清酒釀酒師到仙台釀造清酒。</div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059381924/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9351"><img alt="IMG_9351" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059381924_805f28286b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059381704/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9356"><img alt="IMG_9356" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059381704_25b72cd38d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>三之丸內有尊伊達政宗的半身像,這是最初那尊被上繳金屬回收的騎馬像,有位鄉土歷史學家在鹽釜市找到銅像的上半部,回收後將其製作成半身胸像。</div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059178803/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9352"><img alt="IMG_9352" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059178803_0ea2e8ddb7_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058107922/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9353"><img alt="IMG_9353" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058107922_040c4707f1_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div>伊達政宗的半身胸像旁邊,我們見到了熟悉的名字,一尊魯迅的銅像。原來這位中國的名人是在日本學醫,起先是在東京學習採礦冶金,後來到了仙台醫學專門學校(後來的東北大學醫學部),在日俄戰爭後,又決定決定棄醫從文。</div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059178688/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9354"><img alt="IMG_9354" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059178688_c0ecf0ed6d_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059145601/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9355"><img alt="IMG_9355" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059145601_67604b40a5_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div>戰後,美軍進駐仙台城的二之丸,稱為キャンプセンダイ(Camp Sendai),為了讓卡車通行,將三之丸的巽門拆除。昭和32年(1957年)美軍撤出,二之丸成為東北大學的川內校區。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058107682/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9357"><img alt="IMG_9357" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058107682_3ebdf0b2d4_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>三之丸的東面與北面,是人工挖掘的堀,以長沼及五色沼稱之。五色沼又被認定是日本花式滑冰的發祥地,據說明治30年(1897年)有位外國人傳教士在冬天結冰的五色沼上,教孩童們玩花式滑冰,開啟這項運動的歷史,後來仙台也出了羽生結弦與荒川靜香兩位知名選手,踏上了冬季奧運的殿堂。</div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059381579/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9360"><img alt="IMG_9360" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059381579_73e6da3188_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058107492/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9363"><img alt="IMG_9363" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058107492_2c4240c28d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059630170/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9367"><img alt="IMG_9367" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059630170_e5b40c6c2a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div>回程發現彩繪的人孔蓋,圖案是昔日跨過廣瀨川的大橋,還有進入仙台城的大手門。</div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058107407/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9368"><img alt="IMG_9368" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058107407_ff9a472e43_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div>仙台城後,接下來悠悠哉哉的,搭常磐線到名取,再換乘仙台空港線,此趟從函館到仙台的東北賞櫻行程就落幕了。</div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058107367/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9369"><img alt="IMG_9369" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058107367_94a9914569_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058107202/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9376"><img alt="IMG_9376" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058107202_650dbba2bb_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059178168/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9379"><img alt="IMG_9379" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059178168_237dacf6ef_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div>這一趟,櫻花從落空的心情轉換到滿開的欣喜,百名城也入袋好幾座,松島也遊湖了,貓島也再添一座,雖然被貓搶劫,也算另一種成就達成。</div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059144991/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9384"><img alt="IMG_9384" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059144991_6f8a3caa85_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059144776/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9387"><img alt="IMG_9387" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059144776_ecd4481087_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div><div>望著機場內高掛的七夕裝飾,許願下次能來把東北三大祭典跑一趟,再來享受美味的牛舌。</div>
<div> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059145531/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9390"><img alt="IMG_9390" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059145531_7b7947bffd_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <br /><br /></div>
<div>2019.04<br /><br /></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/01/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本函館追櫻:五稜郭.弁天台場.函館山.新選組土方歲三</a></div>
<div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/04/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本盛岡追櫻:道南漁火鐵道.津輕海峽渡輪.石割櫻.盛岡城</a></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/05/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本宮城追櫻:藏王狐狸村.白石藏王駅</a></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/07/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本宮城追櫻:白石城.船岡城址公園.一目千本櫻</a></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/08/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本宮城追櫻:多賀城.松島</a></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/10/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本宮城追櫻:漫畫小鎮石卷.猫の島田代島住一晚</a></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/11/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本宮城追櫻:松島觀光船.北上展勝地公園</a></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/12/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本宮城追櫻:仙台夜櫻.夜景.米澤牛.烤牛舌「閣」</a></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2023/05/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本山形追櫻:寶珠山立石寺.山寺駅</a></div></div>
Laxichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04802970745091107114noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37782309.post-90696682496527900082023-05-15T00:11:00.007+08:002023-07-11T17:06:19.071+08:00日本山形追櫻:寶珠山立石寺.山寺駅<div>今天就要離開仙台,晚上7點的班機,白天的時間還很充裕,除了勢必要去的仙台城外,一時想不到要去哪。在地圖上左思右想,突然想到隔壁的山形,何不就搭仙山線,翻過山嶺,來去大名鼎鼎的山寺,還能把JR東北.南北海道鐵道路5日周遊券的殘餘價值用盡。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058106372/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9167"><img alt="IMG_9167" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058106372_db7477e982_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><span><a name='more'></a></span><div><br /></div><div>早上在仙台駅集合後,搭上JR仙山線快速列車,來到55分鐘車程的山寺駅。今天是星期二,遊客並不多,但列車上倒是滿滿通勤的乘客,還好我們有提前15分鐘以上到仙台駅的月台候車,電車已經在月台等待發車,不然沿途幾乎沒有乘客下車,要一路站來山寺。</div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058116822/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8857"><img alt="IMG_8857" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058116822_0867430be5_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059154431/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8859"><img alt="IMG_8859" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059154431_a199ffaa49_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br />
<div></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059154451/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8858"><img alt="IMG_8858" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059154451_ea7e0d3bae_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>仙台通往山形的鐵道在仙山線於大正 15 年(1926年)從宮城縣率先開始建設,另一側的山形因為路線選線的爭議而延遲,到了昭和7年(1932年)才決定從千歲匯入奧羽本線。於是,昭和6年(1931年)從宮城至作並的仙台東線開業,昭和8年(1933年)從羽前千歲至山寺的仙山西線開業,橫斷奧羽山脈的仙山隧道在昭和12年(1937年)開通,正式連接作並與山寺,東西線全線開通,路線改名為仙山線。</div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058116777/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8860"><img alt="IMG_8860" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058116777_286339c35f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br />
<div></div></div><div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059390824/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8862"><img alt="IMG_8862" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059390824_10e0d43c0d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></div><br /><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059187668/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8863"><img alt="IMG_8863" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059187668_d75d5d774e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></div></div><div><br /></div><div>山寺駅於昭和8年(1933年)開業,一座島式月台,1面2線,南北兩側仍留有側線,月台東側盡頭是通往站房的地下連通道。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058116682/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8864"><img alt="IMG_8864" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058116682_a6f212a020_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></div><br /><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059154271/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8865"><img alt="IMG_8865" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059154271_197633babe_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></div><br /><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059639275/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8866"><img alt="IMG_8866" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059639275_b25f7aece0_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br />
<div></div></div><div><br /></div><div>月台東側的鐵道轉轍器與山坡之間,還留有調車轉盤的遺跡,是當年仙山隧道還未貫通前,列車來到山寺駅後,迴轉掉頭之用。奧羽山脈另一側的作並駅,也有一座調車轉盤。</div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059390729/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8867"><img alt="IMG_8867" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059390729_93d34a5841_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br />
<div></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059639215/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8868"><img alt="IMG_8868" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059639215_a81ef512b3_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>樓梯與站房間的走廊,兩側木窗迴廊的模樣,讓我有種要走去泡溫泉的錯覺。</div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059390694/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8869"><img alt="IMG_8869" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059390694_c6c4f937e1_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><div>山寺駅的入口掛著「東北の駅百選」,是平成14年(2002年)在鐵道日所票選出代表日本東北地方特色的車站。與站房緊緊相連的見晴台,有點像是仿造立石寺五大堂模樣的觀景台,不用進入站房就可登上,待我們返回時在來一看究竟。<br />
<div></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059639175/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8871"><img alt="IMG_8871" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059639175_3c9d95f62c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059177408/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9169"><img alt="IMG_9169" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059177408_5475303647_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>車站前方這間蕎麥麵店,最吸睛的是外頭這棵松樹,修剪成這番模樣,肯定花費不少功夫。</div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059154141/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8872"><img alt="IMG_8872" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059154141_e246b85098_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><div>車站前筆直馬路的正對面,是列為有形文化財的舊山寺旅館(山寺ホテル),旅館早在車站開業之前,就倚著立谷川的河岸而建起,大大的唐破風玄關正對著馬路口,有種不知不覺就要走進去的感覺。<br />
<div></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059154091/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8873"><img alt="IMG_8873" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059154091_147137c1b3_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>旅館的業務在平成19年(2007年)結束,平成24年(2012年)再度活化,名為「<a href="https://yamaderahotel.hateblo.jp/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">やまがたレトロ館</a>」以展示館的身分對公眾免費開放。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058106397/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9166"><img alt="IMG_9166" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058106397_29a1b48169_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>今天的目的地,就在山寺駅對面的山坡上,從車站步行約450m,並不遠,若站在山寺寶珠橋抬頭看,就在正上方。<br />
<div></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059154061/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8875"><img alt="IMG_8875" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059154061_9992877df3_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br />
<div></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059390564/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8876"><img alt="IMG_8876" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059390564_2db5bd4cdf_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059154001/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8878"><img alt="IMG_8878" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059154001_b132fecc7e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><div>山寺是這群座落山坡上的寺廟的暱稱,正式的名稱「<a href="https://www.rissyakuji.jp/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">寶珠山阿所川院立石寺</a>」,由慈覺大師円仁開山創建,屬於天台宗的佛教寺院。</div><div><br /></div><div>在我們前幾天走訪松島,因時間關係僅路過沒實際走訪的瑞巖寺,就是由慈覺大師円仁開山。慈覺大師円仁在天長5年(828年)創建瑞巖寺後,相繼在嘉祥3年(850年)開創岩手縣的中尊寺、毛越寺,貞觀2年(860年)開創山形縣的立石寺。<br />
<div></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058116362/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8882"><img alt="IMG_8882" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058116362_18d98aa034_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br />
<div></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059638985/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8883"><img alt="IMG_8883" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059638985_e95bcc1b60_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>走過山寺寶珠橋後,一路上都有能夠往上的階梯,但我們造訪時,階梯最上方都封了起來,只能走到最右端,從標有登山口立牌的階梯才能上行。這大概是要讓遊客都能路過道路兩旁的店家,所以才這樣設計吧,只是我們來的太早,店家都還沒營業就是了。</div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059153891/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8884"><img alt="IMG_8884" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059153891_0b5725a283_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><div>爬上階梯,迎面而來的是立石寺的根本中堂,是這座山上所有寺院的本堂,也就是正殿。殿中供奉著的木造藥師如來,相傳是慈覺大師円仁所刻製。<br />
<div></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058116247/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8886"><img alt="IMG_8886" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058116247_1a021f8c09_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>現在所見的根本中堂,是延文元年(1356年)由山形城初代城主斯波兼賴重新改建,期間經過大小整修,仍保持當時的樣貌,是日本最古老的山毛櫸佛寺建築。<br />
<div></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059187183/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8887_stitch"><img alt="IMG_8887_stitch" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059187183_20ef426c9f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>根本中堂的大殿中,點著一盞被天台宗視為寶物的不滅法燈,既然是寶物,當然是看不到啦~</div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059638870/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8889"><img alt="IMG_8889" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059638870_2ea98ecf34_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><div><div>日本天台宗的開宗始祖是被尊稱為傳教大師的最澄,14歲出家前的俗名是三津首廣野,19歲在奈良東大寺受具足戒之後,登比叡山修行。到了平安時代初期的延曆23年(804年),與空海等人被選為日本留學僧,從九州出發,搭乘遣唐使船入唐,登天台山求法,學習天台宗教義。</div><div><br /></div><div>隔年回到日本,獲得許可,在比叡山創建日本天台宗,這些寺院被稱為比叡山寺。弘仁13年(822年),最澄在比叡山的道院內圓寂,隔年弘仁14年(823年),被允許取用年號作為寺號,比叡山寺正式稱為延暦寺。</div><div><br /></div><div>貞觀2年(860年),最澄的高等弟子之一的円仁,已是天台座主第3世,收到清和天皇的勅命,創建立石寺。相傳,立石寺根本中堂的不滅法燈,便是從比叡山延曆寺分火過來。</div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059187008/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8896"><img alt="IMG_8896" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059187008_84872b727f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>從根本中堂開始,是一條橫向的參拜路徑,路中間有尊地藏菩薩石像,若走路不專心,沒注意前方,就很有可能踢到!</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059390229/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8891"><img alt="IMG_8891" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059390229_a65c0df54a_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>大概是因為這尊石像放置在石檻上,四周用木條圍了起來,所以稱為橋殿,但橋殿的立牌已經斷了。也或許因為圍起來的關係,多了幾分許願池的想像,裡面不少參拜者祈願的錢幣。<br />
<div></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058116182/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8890"><img alt="IMG_8890" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058116182_62d19fe81a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059153606/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8897"><img alt="IMG_8897" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059153606_46797e8785_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>清和天皇的御寶塔,是這座山上最古老的石塔。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058116127/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8893"><img alt="IMG_8893" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058116127_8f05e8fd46_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>好像有哪裡怪怪的,剛剛參拜路徑穿過了一座鳥居!?這裡的寺廟應該是佛教,怎麼出現了神道教的鳥居?鳥居旁的御神木是一株樹齡超過1000年的銀杏,據說是由円仁親手種下。入春的當下,黃葉找就掉光光,剩下不起眼的枯枝。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058116017/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8898"><img alt="IMG_8898" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058116017_a485d05d57_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059186893/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8899"><img alt="IMG_8899" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059186893_f7ebd49e0f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059153391/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8904"><img alt="IMG_8904" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059153391_21d040a46a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>原來這裡有一座山寺日枝神社,作為出羽國山寺總鎮守,總覺得冠上總鎮守這個名號,就很厲害。</div><div><br /></div><div>神社最初被稱為山王權現,又名大宮大權現,是山岳信仰、神道、天台宗融合之神,也是東北地區神佛習合的一大據點。大永元年(1521年)因為山形城城主最上家的家督親族爭鬥,遭到天童城城主天童賴長燒毀,天文2年(1534年)才重建。一直到了明治新政府頒佈神佛分離令後,明治3年(1870年)與立石寺分離,改名為日枝神社。</div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059638470/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8903"><img alt="IMG_8903" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059638470_4fda8179c0_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059186638/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8905"><img alt="IMG_8905" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059186638_734802c27c_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><div>立石寺作為比叡山延歷寺的別院,意想不到的是,在戰國時代末期,織田信長控制了京都周邊,延曆寺採取了對立行對,將淺井長政、朝倉義景等與織田信長敵對之人,藏匿於比叡山。於是,元龜2年(1571年),織田信長發動火燒延曆寺的討伐行動,而有了第六天魔王這個在人間破壞佛教、佛法,阻止修行人,使人們沉溺在欲樂的稱號。</div><div><br /></div><div>本能寺之變後,延曆寺在天正12年(1584年)獲得羽柴秀吉的重建許可,才又從立石寺取火回去,讓不滅法燈繼續存續下去。</div></div><div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059153496/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8900"><img alt="IMG_8900" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059153496_18842cde1d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /><div></div>御神輿殿外的木芥子塚(こけし塚)很醒目,為壞掉的木芥子祈福之用。嗯...好吧,畢竟也看過筆塚與庖丁塚,把壞掉的木芥子埋藏起來祭祀,也蠻合理的。</div><div><br /></div><div>木芥子是東北地區的產物,圓柱狀的木雕人偶,在宮城、秋田、岩手、山形都會不經意地看見。木芥子的出現有很多種說法,大部分人相信源自溫泉地附近的工匠,將木材作成人偶玩具,辛苦結束農耕的農民,在冬季前來泡溫泉消除疲勞,就順道將人偶玩具當作土產帶了回去,因此漸漸盛行。</div><div><br /></div><div>但在看過《要聽神明的話(神さまの言うとおり)》這部恐怖漫畫後,看到木芥子多少有點陰影,漸漸地就偏向相信讀音「子消し」,也就是小孩消失的說法。由於農民生活窮困,懷孕的婦人常有流產或被迫墮胎的情況,於是父母就將木芥子作為紀念,尋求心靈的慰藉。</div></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059153281/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8906"><img alt="IMG_8906" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059153281_031969e955_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059153166/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8910"><img alt="IMG_8910" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059153166_a49b782ee2_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>參道上出現與徘聖松尾芭蕉的物品,還有芭蕉與的弟子河合曾良的銅像。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059389954/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8901"><img alt="IMG_8901" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059389954_29129a46d6_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>慈覺大師円仁在天長至貞觀年間(828年~860年)相繼創建瑞巖寺、中尊寺、毛越寺、立石寺,到了元祿2年,松尾芭蕉踏上背後世稱為奧之細道的旅程,來到東北後,相繼走訪這四所寺廟的路線,也被後人稱為四寺廻廊。</div><div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059638250/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8908"><img alt="IMG_8908" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059638250_18e211b556_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></div><div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059186423/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8911"><img alt="IMG_8911" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059186423_00b3f843a4_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059153231/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8909"><img alt="IMG_8909" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059153231_cd2783a859_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>經過念佛堂與鐘樓,立石寺的山門即在眼前。原本松柏楓的色彩就已經很繽紛,幾株櫻花正綻放著,多了添幾分柔和。</div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059638110/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8912"><img alt="IMG_8912" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059638110_3202191a92_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059389594/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8913_stitch"><img alt="IMG_8913_stitch" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059389594_a9b9d2ba5d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059638015/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8915_1_stitch"><img alt="IMG_8915_1_stitch" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059638015_511c3aef64_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059637990/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8919"><img alt="IMG_8919" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059637990_0d949f5a47_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><div>離山門最近的階梯,已被關上,還好沒有白爬一趟。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059153036/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8914"><img alt="IMG_8914" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059153036_810d7e73c9_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059152901/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8921"><img alt="IMG_8921" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059152901_9d1b0ba641_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>踏進山門,支付300円的入山料,也稱巡拜料,正式進入立石寺。</div><div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059633400/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9148"><img alt="IMG_9148" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059633400_af0b81e015_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059637955/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8920"><img alt="IMG_8920" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059637955_d9f1f3c8c3_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br />
<div></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059152801/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8923"><img alt="IMG_8923" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059152801_b68722dd0e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>山門之後,是一段又一段的石階,修行者隨著一階又一階的爬升,世俗的慾望與煩惱便隨之煙消雲散。<br />
<div></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059637845/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8922"><img alt="IMG_8922" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059637845_517f8bb7a8_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059637820/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8924"><img alt="IMG_8924" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059637820_a7f9b35720_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059148501/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9146"><img alt="IMG_9146" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059148501_2ebd3b6ea6_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>提醒入山者要注意猴子出沒的告示牌旁,發現一隻三花貓,好可愛,但怎麼逗弄就是不願靠過來。<br />
<div></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059389264/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8925"><img alt="IMG_8925" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059389264_9ce4b8630d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br />
<div></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059186038/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8926"><img alt="IMG_8926" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059186038_4d408c9bf9_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a></div><div><br />
<div></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059389189/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8927"><img alt="IMG_8927" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059389189_09b8dd4d67_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>沒一會,出現屋頂長滿草的姥堂,從這裡向上是極樂淨土,向下則是地獄。姥堂內有兩尊奪衣婆,奪衣婆看守在陰陽交界的三途川,亡者經過三途川時,需繳交六文錢搭船渡河,若沒有六文錢,奪衣婆就會奪去亡者的衣物,掛在樹梢,用來判斷亡者生前的善惡,樹梢壓的愈彎,則罪惡愈重。</div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059185943/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8929"><img alt="IMG_8929" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059185943_71fea23e1f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><div>相傳參拜著會在此處換上乾淨的新衣,便可登上極樂淨土,換下的舊衣服則供奉給奪衣婆,消減身上的欲望及污穢。<br />
<div></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059637630/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8930"><img alt="IMG_8930" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059637630_491358f9b5_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>堂內為什麼是兩尊就不得而知了,不過奪衣婆的樣貌令人感到畏懼,連拍出來的照片都糊了。等等,為什麼裡面會有哆啦A夢與小熊維尼呢!?</div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059185848/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8931"><img alt="IMG_8931" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059185848_ab32881812_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br />
<div></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058115002/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8933"><img alt="IMG_8933" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058115002_e1550fec68_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>路徑於高大的樹林間穿梭,早晨的氣溫雖然微涼,但爬坡總是讓身子很快就熱了起來,資料說階梯有1015階,就繼續往上吧。<br />
<div></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059389039/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8934"><img alt="IMG_8934" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059389039_f0595293fe_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a></div><div><br />
<div></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059152546/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8935"><img alt="IMG_8935" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059152546_49d49c1d67_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a></div><div><br />
<div></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058114907/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8936"><img alt="IMG_8936" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058114907_f6c7005548_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>參道順著山勢修建,直挺的絕壁被稱為百丈岩,岩壁上刻著大大小小的石碑,相當新奇,一路上看得目不轉睛。</div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059388899/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8938"><img alt="IMG_8938" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059388899_1ea14b3b2f_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><br /><div><br />
<div></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059388874/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8939"><img alt="IMG_8939" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059388874_d759e1b388_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>相傳參道闢建之時,最窄的地方只有14公分,這路段被稱為四寸道,現在已經相當好走,只是階梯變窄了,到是爬的有點喘就是了。<br />
<div></div></div><div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059388839/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8941_1"><img alt="IMG_8941_1" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059388839_9603223fb4_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></div><br /><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059185623/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8942"><img alt="IMG_8942" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059185623_3b48ce40c9_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></div></div><div><br /></div><div>一路上大大小小的石像,唯獨這尊磨崖佛浮雕,弄了一座有如神龕的小屋頂,路過不禁會心一笑。<br />
<div></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059185543/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8945"><img alt="IMG_8945" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059185543_93ec512017_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br />
<div></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059185488/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8946"><img alt="IMG_8946" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059185488_07ab245305_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>岩塊內凹處,大大小小的石像林立,像是在施展法力,護著不讓大石崩下。</div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058114577/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8947"><img alt="IMG_8947" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058114577_ac799987ee_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><div>這些放置在地藏菩薩周圍的長木條,稱為後生車,用來供奉亡者。這裡大多是供奉那些早逝的孩童,而地藏菩薩的紅色前掛,就是要讓孩童們能一眼認出。</div><div><br /></div><div>在日本信仰中,地藏菩薩是來不及長大的孩童的守護神,那些比雙親先離世的孩童,因無法對父母盡孝,無法渡三途川,只能在賽河之原將石頭堆疊成塔,當作他們沒有供養父母的補償。但在石塔堆好之前,名叫地藏虐的惡鬼就會跑出來把塔弄塌。地藏菩薩不忍這些年幼的靈魂被欺負,會在賽河之原守護,讓他們快快進入輪迴。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059152336/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8944"><img alt="IMG_8944" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059152336_1e9fffddc9_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>每隔幾步之距,就有設置石燈,想像著當年暗夜點火引路的景象。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059637025/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8953"><img alt="IMG_8953" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059637025_ff53602d98_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br />
<div></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059185413/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8948"><img alt="IMG_8948" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059185413_cce4fd6d5e_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>松尾芭蕉的旅程來到立石寺,聽見夏日的蟬鳴,在短冊上寫下「閑かさや 岩にしみ入る 蝉の声(蟬鳴聲聲靜入石)」的俳句。之後,弟子們來到此地,望著昔日之景,不禁緬懷松尾芭蕉,便將當初吟誦的俳句寫下,將短冊埋下,立下石塚,於是有了蟬塚(せみ塚)的呼稱。</div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059388589/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8949"><img alt="IMG_8949" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059388589_5795a1f506_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br />
<div></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059185368/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8951"><img alt="IMG_8951" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059185368_a8b5a6cd30_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>抬頭望了望百丈岩,峭壁上就是開山堂與五大堂了,離極樂淨土還有一段高度,繼續往上爬。據傳,這面峭壁上有個洞窟,是慈覺大師圓寂長眠的入定窟。<br />
<div></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059388514/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8952"><img alt="IMG_8952" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059388514_297e6f418f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059185193/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8956"><img alt="IMG_8956" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059185193_a05a8a4e38_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059151996/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8958"><img alt="IMG_8958" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059151996_8a73a92cc8_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a></div><div><br />
<div></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058114317/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8959"><img alt="IMG_8959" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058114317_c932e3a0e3_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>仁王門的下方,會先經過彌陀洞,是在一片巨大的岩壁上刻出<span face=""Noto Sans Japanese", sans-serif" style="font-size: 16px;">阿彌陀如來的樣貌。</span><span face=""Noto Sans Japanese", sans-serif" style="font-size: 16px;">阿彌陀如來有</span>1丈6尺,約4.8公尺,也被稱作為丈六的阿彌陀。據說能看出阿彌陀如來模樣的人,就能獲得幸福,只是我資質駑鈍,頓悟不出佛像的樣貌,就連岩壁全景都塞不入鏡頭中。</div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059388344/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8960"><img alt="IMG_8960" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059388344_fc1fd96c75_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br />
<div></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058114257/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8961"><img alt="IMG_8961" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058114257_984eae26c4_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>岩壁上也是滿滿的石刻,一路上所見這種用陰刻方式的碑,稱為岩塔婆,作為禮拜供養之用,因為宗教信仰認為亡者的靈魂會回歸這座山寺,或是棲附到附近的靈山。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058114137/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8970"><img alt="IMG_8970" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058114137_d612b6dd8f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059151786/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8969"><img alt="IMG_8969" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059151786_459571b690_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>岩塔婆下方也有許多後生車,除此之外,還注意到岩壁下方的縫隙中,塞滿密密麻麻的錢幣,是類似賽錢箱的概念嗎?應該也是奉納的一種概念。</div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059184993/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8963"><img alt="IMG_8963" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059184993_f29172101a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059184963/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8966"><img alt="IMG_8966" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059184963_2943c91dc3_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059151691/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8971_1"><img alt="IMG_8971_1" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059151691_d4ddde787f_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><div>再尋幾階階梯而上,有如一道關卡鎮守在眼前的,就是有山寺第一門之稱的仁王門。<br />
<div></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059151626/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8976"><img alt="IMG_8976" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059151626_d5aff1398c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br />
<div></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059184708/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8978_stitch"><img alt="IMG_8978_stitch" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059184708_ca3f607ef8_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br />
<div></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059388079/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8980"><img alt="IMG_8980" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059388079_87ce24f1e6_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br />
<div></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059151496/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8983"><img alt="IMG_8983" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059151496_964bf4377c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>現在的仁王門是立石寺第65世的情田和尚,於嘉永元年(1848年)用櫸木重建,門廊兩側有仁王尊像安置在內,心存邪念者是無法通過此道門的。<br />
<div></div></div><div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058113872/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8986"><img alt="IMG_8986" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058113872_13a6242d55_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></div><br /><br /><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059151461/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8989"><img alt="IMG_8989" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059151461_6a7d0e5124_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></div></div><div><br /></div><div>兩尊仁王尊像是由平井源七郎所造,他是鎌倉時代著名僧人運慶的第13代後裔,但裡面太黑,只能拍拍建築的木雕。</div><div><br /></div><div>而運慶留下來的雕刻,著名有奈良圓成寺的大日如來坐像、奈良東大寺南大門兩旁的金剛力士像、奈良興福寺北圓堂的彌勒佛坐像、無著菩薩與世親菩薩立像,以及靜岡願成院的阿彌陀如來坐像、不動明王及及び二童子立像、毘沙門天立像,皆被視為日本國寶。</div><div><div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059151371/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8994"><img alt="IMG_8994" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059151371_aae80a1d42_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></div><br /><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058113687/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8995"><img alt="IMG_8995" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058113687_15259cf20e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></div></div><div><br /></div></div><div>仁王門之後,便是山內地域,正式進入山寺的領域。<br />
<div></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059636475/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8990"><img alt="IMG_8990" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059636475_dcc37c1a12_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>迎面而來的,還是一階又一街的階梯,不同的是,寺院沿著坡面一間一間冒了出來。山寺在最上氏統領山形時期發展到全盛,寺坊超過300間,1000多名僧人聚集於此。直到江戶時代,仍勉勵僧人修行,寺內多達12座支院,其中性相院、金乘院、中性院、華藏院,仍保留昔日的樣貌。</div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059387894/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_8992"><img alt="IMG_8992" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059387894_84624d867d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><div>仁王門後方第一間是觀明院,沒有開放,看起來空空的。觀明院的後方是性相院,據說裡面恭奉著慈覺大師所作的阿彌陀如來,以及運慶的毘沙門天。</div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058113647/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9001"><img alt="IMG_9001" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058113647_77985473f9_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059151256/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9009"><img alt="IMG_9009" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059151256_b0e3885202_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059151201/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9012"><img alt="IMG_9012" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059151201_a843a76a00_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>性相院旁的叉路,通往百丈岩峭壁的頂部,個人覺得整個山寺的重頭戲。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059636305/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9003_1"><img alt="IMG_9003_1" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059636305_5698dcac10_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058113542/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9013"><img alt="IMG_9013" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058113542_9b4fe347a7_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><div>回望一下,性相院旁的岩壁是由多層岩石組成,嶙峋中帶著神秘感,稱為修業的岩場。岩壁上有幾處洞窟及小屋,是僧人修練的場所,性相院上方的是胎內堂,右上方是釋迦堂。由於地勢險峻,太過危險,並未對外開放。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059387524/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9021"><img alt="IMG_9021" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059387524_ee7191d8df_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059386924/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9069"><img alt="IMG_9069" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059386924_96d93b7263_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058112922/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9048"><img alt="IMG_9048" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058112922_bdbc5ec60a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>接著,是緊鄰峭壁邊的開山堂與五大堂。開山堂是寶珠山立石寺開山始祖慈覺大師的御堂,堂內供奉慈覺大師的木雕尊像,早晚供奉香火不斷。平時開山堂的門並不打開,只在每年1月14日追悼大師忌日時,才會進行御開帳。</div><div><br /></div><div>相聞,慈覺大師死後遺體安置在金色棺材中,圓寂長眠的入定窟,就在開山堂的下方峭壁。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059151101/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9014"><img alt="IMG_9014" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059151101_1fec30b79a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059387614/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9015"><img alt="IMG_9015" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059387614_e0869c03bb_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br />
<div></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059387429/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9023_stitch"><img alt="IMG_9023_stitch" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059387429_e45478c3b7_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>開山堂一旁小小暗紅的納經堂,像被岩頂托了起來,堂內收藏著在奧之院歷時四年的抄寫法華經,是山寺內最古老的建築物。</div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059184178/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9019"><img alt="IMG_9019" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059184178_cb4c4018e5_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058113307/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9022"><img alt="IMG_9022" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058113307_9f64b66a73_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div>從開山堂旁的石階往上,從撐起五大堂的木柱之間穿過,再繞上就來到了五大堂。這座架高的道場,是山寺開山之後30年創建,現存的是重建過後,用來祭祀五大明王並祈求天下太平的道場。<div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059635395/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9059"><img alt="IMG_9059" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059635395_967c1659ac_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059150811/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9033"><img alt="IMG_9033" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059150811_685d882406_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059635440/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9052"><img alt="IMG_9052" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059635440_a3e13c2e17_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059150836/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9029_stitch"><img alt="IMG_9029_stitch" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059150836_2a5e26dcb2_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><div>五大堂像是一座懸於山壁的展望台,挑望遠方的奧羽山脈,山巒層疊,視野絕佳,看了心礦神怡。那白白的山頭的後方,又是我們此行沒機會去的藏王御釜。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059183703/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9056"><img alt="IMG_9056" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059183703_b6eddfddf3_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br />
<div></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059387349/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9034_stitch"><img alt="IMG_9034_stitch" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059387349_1dffe5ec6f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059150581/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9044"><img alt="IMG_9044" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059150581_ca19f1fbdf_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>雖然來的季節不是白雪皚皚的冬季,也不是滿滿楓紅的秋季,也非綠意盎然的夏季。冬末春初之時,山景仍帶著枯黃的蕭瑟,但谷地間低矮的房舍,些許滿綻的櫻花,還是為眼前的景象帶來些繽紛的色彩。</div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059150596/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9043"><img alt="IMG_9043" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059150596_ff8d06d67d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br />
<div></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058113107/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9038"><img alt="IMG_9038" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058113107_d1fe5c09f9_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058113137/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9037"><img alt="IMG_9037" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058113137_8c46e3e9bc_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>一旁的開山堂,就在峭壁的邊邊,看了真叫人寒毛直豎。修業的岩場上的胎內堂與釋迦堂,光看腿就軟軟的,就算真的開放,爬上去後還真不知道該如何下來。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058113082/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9039"><img alt="IMG_9039" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058113082_fbc04ba0e8_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br />
<div></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059635685/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9040"><img alt="IMG_9040" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059635685_308d21f36c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058112882/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9050"><img alt="IMG_9050" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058112882_8a7384c940_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><div>看了不少遊記,許多網友來到五大堂,看完壯闊的景色後便旋即下山,有點可惜,山寺的後半段還有許多可看的,而且1015階也還沒爬完呢。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059150351/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9063_stitch"><img alt="IMG_9063_stitch" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059150351_ed8ea02d1e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059183633/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9060_stitch"><img alt="IMG_9060_stitch" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059183633_1b34a44c8d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><div>從開山堂接回金乘院,路旁滿滿披著紅色前掛的地藏菩薩,太密集了,密集恐懼症快要發作了。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059184163/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9020"><img alt="IMG_9020" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059184163_bc4db37ab8_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br />
<div></div></div><div>金乘院門前有支巨大的後生車,門上掛著鮮豔的五色旗,供奉延命地藏菩薩及千體不動明王。<br />
<div></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059386894/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9071"><img alt="IMG_9071" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059386894_a9bea5cbd9_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059386789/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9076"><img alt="IMG_9076" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059386789_454e886b32_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>金乘院旁的峭壁上,也有一座高懸於岩窟上的道場,下方有座橫架於山谷間的木梯,看了心裡就發麻,古時修行的人真是勇氣十足啊!</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058112512/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9075"><img alt="IMG_9075" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058112512_476460f3a0_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>繼續往上爬,金乘院的後一階是山頂賣店,除了販售紀念品外,重要的是有販賣機,這時來罐運動飲料,通體舒暢。</div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058112602/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9072"><img alt="IMG_9072" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058112602_41c2648377_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059150106/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9078"><img alt="IMG_9078" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059150106_2bf7c722da_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059386654/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9079"><img alt="IMG_9079" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059386654_3b8ae9faba_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059183268/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9081"><img alt="IMG_9081" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059183268_8b8168b474_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>再往上一個平台,來到供奉阿彌陀如來的中性院,其座向與其他支院不同,背向著岩壁,據說背後有座岩窟,裡面立著新庄藩戶澤氏歷代的石碑。</div><div><br /></div><div>元和8年(1622年)發生最上騷動,最上家因爭鬥家督,演變成武裝衝突的內亂,最後最上家遭到易改,全部領地沒收,轉封給戶澤氏第20代當主的戶澤政盛,納入新庄藩,成為新庄藩初代藩主。</div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059149991/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9083"><img alt="IMG_9083" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059149991_ede6ab8f83_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br />
<div></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059634950/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9084"><img alt="IMG_9084" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059634950_064e4ceba5_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058112167/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9089"><img alt="IMG_9089" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058112167_81a5853cd6_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br />
<div></div>中性院的對面,有座最上義光公御靈屋。最上義光是山形藩的初代藩主,山形的領民感念最上義光的宅心仁厚,為出羽國帶來和平安定,修建這座祠堂,供奉最上義與家臣10人的牌位。</div><div><br /></div><div>只是第2代藩主最上家親驟逝,一說是被下毒,而在第3代最上義俊時爆發最上騷動,被幕府下令改易,改封近江國蒲生郡,讓最上一族續存。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059149896/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9086"><img alt="IMG_9086" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059149896_bfbbe7a56e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></div><br /><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058112262/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9087"><img alt="IMG_9087" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058112262_af4c876865_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></div><br /><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059183123/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9088"><img alt="IMG_9088" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059183123_5c64f864eb_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></div><div><br /></div><div>
<div></div>再往上,就是山寺最裡面的奧之院了,走進奧之院之前,先來去旁邊的叉路瞧瞧。</div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059634820/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9091_stitch"><img alt="IMG_9091_stitch" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059634820_b413e43312_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058112027/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9095"><img alt="IMG_9095" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058112027_7d0bc2ee16_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059149336/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9107"><img alt="IMG_9107" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059149336_5bce86c71e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>叉路的盡頭是華藏院,院前的路幅很小,拍照拍得很勉強。據說開山之後,慈覺大師就住在裡面,供奉的是慈覺大師作的觀世音菩薩。</div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059182933/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9096"><img alt="IMG_9096" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059182933_cb8eefd465_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059182728/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9101"><img alt="IMG_9101" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059182728_30601656d1_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a></div><div><br />
<div></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058111777/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9102"><img alt="IMG_9102" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058111777_94bee4d07c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>華藏院旁的洞窟中,裡面是座列為國家重要文化財的三重小塔。三重小塔是永正16年(1519)建造,是全日本最小的三重塔。<br />
<div></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059634620/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9098"><img alt="IMG_9098" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059634620_8b882e7158_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a></div><div><br />
<div></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059182758/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9099"><img alt="IMG_9099" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059182758_efd5c7243c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>三重塔也是超級難拍,格柵後的玻璃不但反光,還糊糊的,很難對焦。<br />
<div></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059182738/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9100"><img alt="IMG_9100" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059182738_3112397463_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>奧之院內地藏菩薩有姿態比較完整石雕像,也難得看到有轉頭的地藏菩薩。</div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059149646/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9097"><img alt="IMG_9097" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059149646_b71e5356d3_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059634435/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9104"><img alt="IMG_9104" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059634435_a9f7b96a00_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><div>阿彌陀如來銅像的下方,有著許多迷小版的地藏菩薩,雖然這裡是個莊嚴的場合,還是覺得很可愛。</div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059182613/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9105"><img alt="IMG_9105" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059182613_845a17a55b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br />
<div></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059149411/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9106"><img alt="IMG_9106" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059149411_e03fb127f3_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br />
<div></div>奧之院是一個通稱,因為位於參道的盡頭,而稱之為奧。正式名字是如法堂,指的是右邊尖頂的那棟建物,緊鄰如法堂的正脊建物,是大雄殿。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059149731/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9093"><img alt="IMG_9093" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059149731_a947471a51_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059634185/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9110"><img alt="IMG_9110" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059634185_dc56980c46_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>奧之院的中央,乍看之下以為有座鑄工精細的小塔,實為一座青銅打造的燈籠,名為金燈籠。聽說這座金燈籠,與香川縣琴平町金刀比羅宮、宮城縣石卷市金華山黃金山神社的燈籠,號稱日本三大燈籠。</div><div><br /></div><div>但是查了一下資料,日本三大燈籠只有提到東京都的大石燈籠、京都南禪寺的石燈籠、愛知縣的佐久間燈籠,倒是沒有提到這裡的金燈籠。</div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059149306/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9108"><img alt="IMG_9108" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059149306_05babd517d_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059149206/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9111"><img alt="IMG_9111" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059149206_106005bba9_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>地上有個小立牌,寫著從山門爬上奧之院,已經完成超過1000階。咦?不是說總共1015階,走上如法堂與大雄殿的階梯,怎麼看都超過15階,所以......</div><div>不管了,踏上最後幾階,走完山寺全部的階梯~</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059182348/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9113"><img alt="IMG_9113" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059182348_97b925dd0b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>相較於金燈籠,一旁的鐘樓就樸實許多。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059182468/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9109"><img alt="IMG_9109" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059182468_0a71b58500_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059148876/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9123"><img alt="IMG_9123" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059148876_86a77084a6_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /><div></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059385309/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9124"><img alt="IMG_9124" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059385309_915b5aa438_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div></div><div><br /></div><div>
<div></div>大雄殿門前掛著丈六彌陀的木牌,殿內供奉著一座5米高的金色阿彌陀如來,這裡與大部分的佛寺及神社一樣,殿內禁止拍照,所以就遠遠的拍個正面照。山寺的授與所依附在大雄殿旁,要買御守或御朱印,就得爬到這裡來。</div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059149056/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9117"><img alt="IMG_9117" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059149056_5578329c4e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br />
<div></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059182293/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9115"><img alt="IMG_9115" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059182293_949fc04cec_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br />
<div></div></div><div>如法堂內供奉釋迦如來和多寶如來兩尊神像,是慈覺大師在中國修行時帶在身邊的神像。殿前匾額寫著靈鷲道場,也是慈覺大師最一開始以石墨草筆、一字三禮來抄寫法華經的地方。<br />
<div></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059149026/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9118"><img alt="IMG_9118" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059149026_b9d6ae694d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>匾額兩旁放置許多繪馬,是將六文錢排列成塔的圖樣釘在繪馬上,相當特別。</div><div><div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059385159/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9130_1"><img alt="IMG_9130_1" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059385159_1727c245e1_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058111052/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9137"><img alt="IMG_9137" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058111052_9ecf38ddb3_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div></div><div><br /></div></div><div>如法堂旁邊有條小徑,通往後方身形單薄卻高聳挺拔的杉木,路口旁有座佛足跡的蓮花台。</div><div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059148846/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9125"><img alt="IMG_9125" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059148846_f7676de83e_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058111242/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9126"><img alt="IMG_9126" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058111242_0092db8d70_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058111102/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9131"><img alt="IMG_9131" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058111102_5ed6f2b7cd_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div></div><div>既然來了,就點一把線香,也想不到祈求什麼,就祈求下山平安,旅途順利好了。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059181968/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9134"><img alt="IMG_9134" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059181968_23abbb95ee_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058111382/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9119"><img alt="IMG_9119" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058111382_60a3e6ce1d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059148911/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9122"><img alt="IMG_9122" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059148911_b001a15c15_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058111167/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9129"><img alt="IMG_9129" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058111167_d665123f64_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>下山途中,注意到金乘院的斜對角有棟紀念殿,是明治41年(1908年)當時仍是東宮義仁親王的大正天皇,前來山寺參拜時的休憩處,因而保留了下來。</div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058111027/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9138"><img alt="IMG_9138" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058111027_a4d2c5ddd9_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059386764/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9077"><img alt="IMG_9077" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059386764_16d2e13c03_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>上來爬多少階,下山就多少階,現在是這樣沒錯,在以前還有個更快的下山方式。在昭和25年(1950年)山寺登錄為縣立國家公園,觀光人潮大增,這些階梯對於我們常爬山的人是還好,但對於一般參拜者是說長不長,說短不短,肯定有爬一半喘噓噓或下山怕傷膝蓋的,參道就塞人堵住了。</div><div><br /></div><div>為了應付龐大的參拜人潮,於是建立了一條下山專用的滑石子溜滑梯。這座讓參拜者快速下山的溜滑梯,全長300m,高度差150m,位置在五大堂再繼續往西走,終點就在立石寺本坊附近。但是因為溜滑梯的斜面角度最大有30度,加速度快,常常有人屁股燒傷、滑落跌傷,所以到了1970年代就禁止使用,如今前去的路徑也封了起來。</div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059181903/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9139"><img alt="IMG_9139" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059181903_cef5685588_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br />
<div></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058111002/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9141"><img alt="IMG_9141" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058111002_74e63a8ce0_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br />
<div></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058110962/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9143"><img alt="IMG_9143" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058110962_7806dc368a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br />
<div></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059633495/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9145"><img alt="IMG_9145" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059633495_b3b9e9f406_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br />
<div></div></div><div>下山總是特別的快,不一會便回到山門,此時肚子也餓的咕咕叫,斜對面的紀念品店旁邊有間門前Cafe,趕緊來去覓食。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058106912/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9149"><img alt="IMG_9149" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058106912_5829fd85b4_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a></div><div><br />
<div></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058110827/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9147"><img alt="IMG_9147" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058110827_2b4a459b54_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div>點餐之前,被老闆娘叫來貼貼紙,貼說是從哪裡來。只是台灣真的太小,容不下我們幾個人的貼紙。<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059144716/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9150"><img alt="IMG_9150" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059144716_dba5021868_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><div>先來一盤每次到超商都會買的糯米丸子,端上來一瞧這顏色不對勁,嘴巴一咬,這口感也不對勁,原來這丸子是蒟蒻作的,稱為力蒟蒻。據說以前來山寺參拜的民眾,在踏入山門的階梯之前,都會來一支力蒟蒻,吃完後會獲得力氣。</div><div><br /></div><div>怎麼不早說,早知道上山前就先來一支!老闆娘也真是的,看到我們要上山,也不來攬客一下~</div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058106782/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9151"><img alt="IMG_9151" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058106782_eae69dc9bc_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><div>也有那麼一說,下山吃完力蒟蒻之後,疲勞會隨即消失。但我怎麼感覺不出來,一定是吃不夠,那就再來一支山形名產櫻桃口味的霜淇淋~<br />
<div></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059177813/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9153"><img alt="IMG_9153" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059177813_024e48d18a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>回到下面商店林立的街道,發現有隻貓在櫥窗間攬客,賣的也是冰淇淋,只是老闆看起來還沒有要營業,大門深鎖,沒辦法光顧了。</div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058106677/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9157"><img alt="IMG_9157" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058106677_99efb15d9e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><div>車站附近的商家也有在賣力蒟蒻,那醬油燉煮的淡淡鹹味,還在嘴內意猶未盡,本想再來一支,但這鍋內的顏色還不夠入味,作罷。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059177543/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9165_1"><img alt="IMG_9165_1" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059177543_30b94e5602_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br />
<div></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059380594/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9160"><img alt="IMG_9160" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059380594_53cb351b21_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>山寺郵便局離山寺駅沒有很遠,可惜沒有特殊的明信片,但據說有特殊的風景印郵戳,就來寄張明信片回台灣吧~<br />
<div></div></div><div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059144466/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9162"><img alt="IMG_9162" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059144466_8110412324_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></div><br /><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059177653/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9163"><img alt="IMG_9163" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059177653_624384f847_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></div><br /><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059380459/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9164"><img alt="IMG_9164" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059380459_b6caa67c90_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></div></div><div><br /></div>進入山寺駅之前,步上旁邊兩層樓的見晴台,有如山下的五大堂,可以晀望剛剛走訪的山寺。其實在月台上也有同樣的視角,畢竟月台在比站房還高的山坡上,差別就在有沒有進站而已。<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058106202/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9173"><img alt="IMG_9173" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058106202_7a6fd9fbb8_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059176923/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9186_stitch"><img alt="IMG_9186_stitch" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059176923_440f9834a9_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059177353/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9172"><img alt="IMG_9172" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059177353_fff3379a45_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></div><div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059380154/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9176"><img alt="IMG_9176" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059380154_2a981fed17_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></div><div><br /></div></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059380074/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9177"><img alt="IMG_9177" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059380074_d2d8a0d1e3_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><div>因為山寺駅的出入口分開,因此我們現在才要踏入這座東北車站百選(東北の駅百選)的站房。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058105892/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9181"><img alt="IMG_9181" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058105892_df9ae2a9d8_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>站房內的座位區是稍微架高的和式木地板,中間凹陷處擺了盆花,若冬天換成暖爐,就更有意境了。<br />
<div></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058105977/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9179"><img alt="IMG_9179" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058105977_be1ec35270_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br />
<div></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059628790/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9180"><img alt="IMG_9180" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059628790_fda246d7a7_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>非假日的山寺駅月台,乘客一樣三三兩兩。有趣的是,往仙台方向的1號線,也標上了七夕祭的圖案,2號線則以山形花笠祭的圖案作為代表。</div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059176973/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9184"><img alt="IMG_9184" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059176973_2eaacbde42_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><div>往山形方向的西邊望去,右前方有座小小火山噴發口的山頭,仙山線從左側穿過去,便離開了山谷地形,抵達有溫泉王國及果樹王國之稱的山形,那裡以後有機會再走訪吧。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058105727/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9192"><img alt="IMG_9192" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058105727_4bb8887eb6_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>月台上,山寺芭蕉記念館的燈箱寫著「閑かさや 岩にしみ入る 蝉の声」,那段蟬塚的俳句。可惜時節不對,沒有蟬鳴,倒是不遠處仙台來的電車,響起進站叩嘍叩嘍的聲響。</div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059628625/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9189"><img alt="IMG_9189" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059628625_ea0fe4dc7b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058105687/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9193"><img alt="IMG_9193" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058105687_446d01f351_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br />
<div></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059143566/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9195"><img alt="IMG_9195" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059143566_2e1ab3ceb8_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059143461/in/album-72177720298743431/" title="IMG_9197"><img alt="IMG_9197" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059143461_22a7167ebe_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br />
<div></div>往仙台方向的電車,也在沒多久後進站。這趟從函館一路玩下來東北,最後的最後,就是東北霸主伊達政宗建造的理想城池,仙台城了</div><div><br /></div><div>2019.04</div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/01/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本函館追櫻:五稜郭.弁天台場.函館山.新選組土方歲三</a></div><div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/04/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本盛岡追櫻:道南漁火鐵道.津輕海峽渡輪.石割櫻.盛岡城</a></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/05/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本宮城追櫻:藏王狐狸村.白石藏王駅</a></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/07/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本宮城追櫻:白石城.船岡城址公園.一目千本櫻</a></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/08/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本宮城追櫻:多賀城.松島</a></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/10/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本宮城追櫻:漫畫小鎮石卷.猫の島田代島住一晚</a></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/11/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本宮城追櫻:松島觀光船.北上展勝地公園</a></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/12/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本宮城追櫻:仙台夜櫻.夜景.米澤牛.烤牛舌「閣」</a></div></div></div></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2023/07/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本宮城追櫻:仙台城.烤牛舌「伊達の牛たん本舗」</a></div>Laxichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04802970745091107114noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37782309.post-84658290876884027012022-12-14T18:20:00.005+08:002023-07-11T17:06:04.379+08:00日本宮城追櫻:仙台夜櫻.夜景.米澤牛.烤牛舌「閣」<div>這趟從函館到仙台的旅程,實際在仙台市的時間並不多,除了最後一天有時間去仙台城外,其他日子都是往外跑,晚上回到仙台市區住一晚。好在,市區內的幾個著名的賞櫻公園,晚上也有點燈,晚餐後還能散步一番。</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52045783972" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52045783972_d87be856e6_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><span><a name='more'></a></span><div><br /></div><div>在盛岡看完隼號(はやぶさ)與小町號(こまち)對接後,來到天色已暗的仙台市。月台上的人潮明顯熱絡,多出許多西裝筆挺的上班族,與這幾天在函館、盛岡、白石藏王,是完全不一樣的氛圍。</div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046691451" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046691451_232169fb16_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>月台立柱上的JR時鐘人偶,挺可愛逗趣的,要是有出周邊商品就好了,但從來沒有看到過。<br />
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046943629" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046943629_d3a497efec_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>這趟E5的系隼號(はやぶさ)及E6系的小町號(こまち)都坐到了,也在盛岡看到兩輛列車對接的動作,大大滿足。</div><div><div></div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046743523" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046743523_f286f191fd_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047201830" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047201830_54f3e3f144_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div></div><div></div><br />就差E2系的山彥號(やまびこ),沒關係,只要不退役,以後機會還很多。<br />
<div></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046741573/in/album-72177720298598378/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046741573_dea39e6bfd_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><div></div><div></div><br /><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046691356" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046691356_e85ba169bb_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046743398" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046743398_b187f4dd0e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /><div></div><div></div>想到仙台,第一個從腦海浮現的美食就是牛舌了,牛舌之外,再來是做成甜點的枝豆了。正想著要去哪裡找的時候,一走出新幹線的閘票口,就在枝豆小徑(ずんだ小徑)的第一間店看到綠通通的<a href="https://zundasaryo.com/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">ずんだ茶寮</a>,趕緊點杯枝豆奶昔嚐嚐鮮。</div><div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div><img alt="IMG_8819" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058084127_f964d7e48f_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div></div><br /></div><div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059154733" target="_blank"></a><img alt="IMG_8821" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059154733_5b901e07b6_o.jpg" width="67%" /><div></div><br />枝豆奶昔出乎意料外的香濃好喝,正想再買一杯時,卻被Celia制止了!理由是等等要吃牛舌了,再喝下去,牛舌就會吃不下囉。<br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058083997" target="_blank"></a><img alt="IMG_8822" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058083997_a7cbc21a2a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></div><div><br /></div><div>仙台的牛舌實在太有名了,車站3樓的枝豆小徑(ずんだ小徑)後方,還有牛舌街(牛たん通り)與壽司街(すし通り)。牛舌街也被稱為牛舌通街或牛舌一條街,裡面直接進駐仙台牛舌的四大名店:味の牛タン 喜助、たんや善治郎、利久、伊達の牛たん本舗。</div><div><br /></div><div>利久已經太多連鎖店,先前走訪<a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2018/10/day-2-2.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">貓島藍島</a>時,已經在小倉駅吃過,而我們預定要吃的店家也不是另外3間,所以趕緊離開車站,行李丟進旅館,馬上去覓食。</div><div></div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046743373" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046743373_39c12d6f36_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><br /><br />來到地下鐵青葉通一番町的Sun Mall一番町商店街,相較商店街的其他店家,鈴喜アバンティビル顯得相當不顯眼,我們要吃的「<a href="https://gyutankaku.in/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">閣</a>」,就在這棟樓的地下一樓。「<a href="https://gyutankaku.in/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">閣</a>」的招牌也很不明顯,很難想像這是總店。<br /><div></div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046691271" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046691271_d359e8f964_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047201745" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047201745_9fe30f9182_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046942309" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046942309_a4527d9353_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><br /><br />店門外冷冷清清,進到店內,座無虛席,是另一般光景,烤台區的炊煙裊裊,師傅雙手俐落地翻動牛舌,店內香氣四溢,每個人都迫不及待店員端來自己的餐點。</div><div><div></div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52045646292" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52045646292_117730445c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br />店家規定,每人都一定要點一份燉牛舌(牛たんの角煮),一口咬下,軟嫩多汁,意猶未盡,作為開胃菜還挺不錯的。<br /><div></div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046742138" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046742138_c83d457ae8_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br />再來就是主角 - 烤牛舌定食,要點就點6片牛舌的套餐,吃個過癮。<br /><div></div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046689941" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046689941_988a251ae4_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br />飽餐一頓,前往下一站 - 西公園賞夜櫻,剛好就是地下鐵的下一站,大町西公園。<br /><div></div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046942219" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046942219_1e032749ca_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047199900" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047199900_41fa3f7f6d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047200050" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047200050_a6a0fccc7b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>走出大町西公園駅的西1出入口,便是西公園的入口。</div><div><br /></div><div><a href="http://www.sendai-ohanami.com/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">西公園</a>是仙台市內最古老的公園,於明治8年(1873年)開園,最初名為櫻之丘公園(桜ケ岡公園),與仙台駅東側的榴岡公園相對應,因而有西公園之稱,於二戰之後就改名為西公園,不過榴岡公園沒有改名成東公園就是了。</div><div></div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046942174" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046942174_6b7c158bc6_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047200400" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047200400_540ca7410e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br />高掛在樹冠下的燈籠,照亮公園路徑,把公園照的通明。落下的花瓣,灑落在草皮上,入夜後氣溫雖然低了許多,還是有不少民眾鋪了墊子,坐在櫻花樹下野餐。<br /><div></div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046741953" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046741953_1b5c47193b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /></div><div><div></div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52045646177" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52045646177_a913c0f5b1_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div><div></div>公園內的<a href="http://sakuragaoka6826.sakura.ne.jp/index.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">櫻岡大神宮</a>,最初設立在宮城郡荒卷村,神社名為神明宮,號伊勢堂山,是伊達政宗在元和七年(1621年)從伊勢神宮分靈回來供奉,御祭神是天照皇大神、豐受大神,以及16柱明神。天和2年(1683年)由伊達綱村擴大規模、重建社殿,成了伊達氏世代供奉的神社。</div><div><div></div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046741843" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046741843_798d312f63_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br />明治維新後的神佛分離令,將神宮寺廢除,並於明治5年(1872年)遷座到廣瀨川旁,也就是現在的位置。面對櫻岡大神宮的右手邊,有一棵臥龍梅,因為沒有打光,拍得很模糊,索性就刪了照片。據說那顆梅樹是伊達政宗在文祿慶長之役時,也就是豐臣秀吉入侵朝鮮時所帶回的。</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046741608" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046741608_71e03382f0_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046941809" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046941809_23739f1098_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046741688" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046741688_d4ac325ecf_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a></div><div><br />仙台西道路這一側有一整排的小吃攤,餐桌就在櫻花樹下,風一吹,花瓣輕飄飄的落下,畫面很有情調,只是氣溫太冷,我們沒有人想要坐,只想繼續走動讓身體暖活。</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52045645892" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52045645892_a66101ec75_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046689661" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046689661_ef31be113e_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a></div><div><br /><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046689526" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046689526_f3166cfe3c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047199915" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047199915_41b14d2a67_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046689706" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046689706_b2def402ed_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div><div></div>比起戶外餐桌,我們更想坐在搭著棚子的室內,裡面看起來就很溫暖!不曉得裡面的人,有沒有看到我們投以羨慕的眼神!<br /><div></div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046689646" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046689646_0137f75584_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52045645982" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52045645982_3d9c442a93_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046689601" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046689601_6fe0494abc_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div><div></div>西公園的夜晚比想像中還要熱鬧,花況也不錯,雖然枝幹上已有不少綠葉冒出頭來,在夜色掩蓋下,只讓紅粉更顯眼。</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52045645847" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52045645847_21258ed848_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div><div></div></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52507014867" target="_blank"><img alt="201904花喵_190530_0035" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52507014867_73af072c40_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><br /><br /></div><div>在仙台的第二晚,來去與西公園隔著仙台駅相對應的榴岡公園,同樣從仙台駅出發,搭上JR仙石線,往東搭一站到榴岡駅(榴ヶ岡駅)。</div><div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046828366" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046828366_32488ab503_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52045783832" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52045783832_91d7314118_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046828341" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046828341_c697c3ee62_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><div>又遇到<a href="http://www.mangattan.jp/manga/liner/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">仙石線マンガッタンライナー</a><a href="http://www.mangattan.jp/manga/liner/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">号</a><a href="http://www.mangattan.jp/manga/liner/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">(Mangattan Liner)</a>,感覺還蠻容易碰到的,這回是I號的彩繪列車。雖然只有一站,還是短暫體驗了一下。</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046878838" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046878838_198d750af4_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046878828" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046878828_c11aa8e515_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047078789" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047078789_771723592f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div></div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046878818" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046878818_f72391ef6c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047078779" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047078779_7199153aec_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52045784317" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52045784317_a4d1292f46_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047338030" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047338030_5eecf86872_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52045784272" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52045784272_2feee91586_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><div>榴岡駅離宮城球場不遠,是<a href="https://www.rakuteneagles.jp/index.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">東北樂天金鷲(東北楽天ゴールデンイーグルス)</a>的主場,站內處處可見球隊吉祥物的庫拉奇(クラッチ)。</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047337735" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047337735_a133812fd5_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046827881" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046827881_4f3d5bc3cd_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047337760" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047337760_7129c6a163_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046878558" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046878558_75847681e1_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>榴岡公園位在坡地上,感覺很靜謐,從南面入口爬上階梯,才發現處處都有民眾。</div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046878728" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046878728_36132949c8_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div></div><div></div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047337960" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047337960_92c4060149_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><div></div>有別於西公園,榴岡公園內有不少矮樹叢,略顯隱密。<br /><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046878743" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046878743_a92597e70d_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047078599" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047078599_10c05c7f8f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div></div><div></div><br />園內的枝垂櫻,相傳是仙台藩第4代藩主 - 伊達綱村在元祿8年(1695年)從京都引進,在此種植了1000多株枝垂櫻、松樹、楓樹,設立了祭祀母親的釋迦堂(現今NPOプラザ・婦人会館的位置)。雖然歷經二戰的破壞,以及樹木本身的老化,枝垂櫻少了許多,在數百年後的今日,仍成了廣為人知的賞櫻聖地。</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047337930" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_1354_stitch" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047337930_05f949cc70_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046827996" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046827996_b7fd2c4819_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><div>伊達綱村為母親設立釋迦堂後,在南側設立了馬場與弓道場,這塊小空地後來有了「桜の馬場」的稱號。現在已經沒有馬了,在櫻花期間,搭建出一攤又一攤讓人垂涎的小吃攤。</div><div><br /></div><div>小空地的東側,也就是公園的中央,有塊偌大的廣場,大概是帝國陸軍步兵第4連隊在明治7年(1874年),將步兵營設立於此後的產物吧。</div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52045784137" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52045784137_2597bd7e9a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><div>小吃攤很誘人,但我們早已經決定好要吃的料理,不可以在這裡就把肚子填飽!還是趕緊來去餐廳,因為餓到照片都拍糊了。</div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046827931" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046827931_be50a8baab_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><div>回到仙台駅,往北走到駅前通與廣瀬通路口,有著長長排隊人龍的就是我們要光顧的麵屋政宗。</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52507014887" target="_blank"><img alt="201904花喵_190530_0017" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52507014887_d93920220a_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52045783717" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52045783717_958e95d2d0_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><div>店內位置不多,好在翻桌率還蠻高的,很快就能進到店內繼續等,至少不用在外頭吹冷風…</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046827796" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046827796_4b59eea121_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>終於,排隊等了好一會,濃郁的沾麵終於上桌。份量看似不大,麵條倒是又彈又有腳勁,很有飽足感。</div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047078489" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047078489_f1c6717a75_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div></div><div>麵屋政宗對面的<a href="https://www.sendai-aer.com/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">AER大樓</a>,頂樓31樓規劃為東西兩面的瞭望台,從上午10點開放到晚上8點,可以免費參觀,也是一處俯瞰仙台夜景的好去處。</div><div><div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059607145" target="_blank"></a><img alt="IMG_8823" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059607145_448f1b0ff0_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div></div><br />搭著電梯來到31樓,中央的空間好像是健身房,邊看夜景邊運動,挺不賴的。走道的兩頭便是瞭望台了。<br /><img alt="IMG_8843" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059606990_d892acc829_o.jpg" width="100%" /><br /><br /><div></div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059154643" target="_blank"></a><img alt="IMG_8827" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059154643_73537eae39_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div></div><br />東面可以看到東北新幹線的高架軌道,往東北彎去,跨過七北田川再直直往北。榴岡公園就在底下的廣瀬通的右前方,只是被建築物擋住了。廣瀬通一直往東延伸,快要到七北田川的出海口為止,天氣好的時候,不知道能不能看見仙台灣?</div><div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059154603" target="_blank"></a><img alt="IMG_8834_stitch" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059154603_42f808185c_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div></div><br /><div></div>西面往下一看,一條光亮筆直的通道是ハピナ名掛丁商店街。黑漆漆的地方就是青葉山的丘陵地帶,有支發亮的彩色三角錐狀物,是tbc東北放送的發送站鐵塔。鐵塔右邊一點,漆黑中微微泛著紫光,就是行程最後一站 - 仙台城的北壁石垣。</div><div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059357744" target="_blank"></a><img alt="IMG_8845_stitch" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059357744_a9133ee618_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div></div><br /></div><div>在仙台市的最後一晚,決定來吃個燒肉。一查發現,「<a href="https://team-toranomon.com/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">仔虎</a>」這間燒肉店同時有提供仙台牛、山形牛、米澤牛,一次滿足三個願望,而且就在仙台駅的S-PAL仙台東館裡面,就決定是這間了。</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047338195" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047338195_e1c27af29f_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046878908" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046878908_3fb088f37e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div></div><div><img alt="IMG_8855" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059165793_320f4d89af_o.jpg" width="100%" /><br /><br /><img alt="IMG_8849" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059154463_c306cbc5de_o.jpg" width="100%" /></div><div><br />進到店內,就能看見仙台牛、山形牛、米澤牛的指定店認證。</div><div><img alt="IMG_8853" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058083667_1872cb96f7_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div></div><br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058083627" target="_blank"></a><img alt="IMG_8854" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058083627_f394b99afa_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div></div><br /><img alt="IMG_8852" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059154348_59b385daee_o.jpg" width="100%" /><br /><br /><div></div>米澤牛是山形縣米澤市的極品和牛,三大和牛之中,也有米澤牛的一席之地,價格當然也很尊貴,三片特撰ロース,一人一片,一口300元就去了。</div><div><div></div><img alt="IMG_8851" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059121711_6e0eab5b7b_o.jpg" width="100%" /><br /><br />還好仙台牛與山形牛的綜合拼盤還負擔的起,明天也要離開先抬了,荷包不會再破洞了。<br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059357689" target="_blank"></a><img alt="IMG_8850" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059357689_d2cf35bd32_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div></div><br /><div></div><div></div></div></div><div>雖然在函館沒有看到粉紅櫻花,撲了空。南下之後,一路的花況是愈來愈好,已經心滿意足,就剩明天去仙台城尋找百名城戳章,就要打道回府囉~</div><div><br /></div><div>2019.04</div>
<div><br /></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/01/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本函館追櫻:五稜郭.弁天台場.函館山.新選組土方歲三</a></div><div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/04/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本盛岡追櫻:道南漁火鐵道.津輕海峽渡輪.石割櫻.盛岡城</a></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/05/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本宮城追櫻:藏王狐狸村.白石藏王駅</a></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/07/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本宮城追櫻:白石城.船岡城址公園.一目千本櫻</a></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/08/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本宮城追櫻:多賀城.松島</a></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/10/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本宮城追櫻:漫畫小鎮石卷.猫の島田代島住一晚</a></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/11/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本宮城追櫻:松島觀光船.北上展勝地公園</a></div></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2023/05/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本山形追櫻:寶珠山立石寺.山寺駅</a></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2023/07/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本宮城追櫻:仙台城.烤牛舌「伊達の牛たん本舗」</a></div>Laxichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04802970745091107114noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37782309.post-57634905322882079162022-11-14T02:41:00.009+08:002023-07-11T17:05:54.322+08:00 日本宮城追櫻:松島觀光船.北上展勝地公園<div><div>早晨從田代島回到石卷,行程刪掉距離比較遠的花卷,改成再訪一次松島,時間不但沒有比較充裕,反而更加緊迫,這大概就是新幹線與在來線在車速與班距的差異。原本要走上可以晀望海景的日和山公園,也放棄了,馬上趕回石卷駅,搭上JR仙石線。</div></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059359109" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8783" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059359109_01512ce9a9_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><span><a name='more'></a></span><div><br /></div><div>離日本三景松島最近的車站是松島海岸駅,從石卷過去不會有什麼問題,要是從仙台過去就要注意,不要誤以為是在松島駅,而去搭了JR仙石東北線或東北本線,那樣的話就有點遠了。</div><div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059165668" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8344" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059165668_4103559550_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059165728" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8341" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059165728_3ec44e6dc8_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div>本來想補個眠,卻睡不太著,望著窗外的景色發呆。經過矢本駅,月台站牌的圖片有著6架大雁隊形的Blue Impulse,原來航空自衛隊中部防衛區域的松島基地就在附近。</div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059618000" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8346" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059618000_b7882b5ea1_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>在高成町駅又與マンガッタンライナーⅡ的彩繪列車差身而過,就是沒見到マンガッタンライナーI。</div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059132796" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8347" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059132796_929ff6a10e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059132771" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8348" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059132771_575267087c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>45分鐘的車程,來到松島海岸駅。車站倚著丘陵而建,僅有一做島式月台,1面2線。站在月台上能看見一小塊松島灣的海色,大部分都被高聳的松樹擋住了,眼前還橫著一條條電線,有點可惜。</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059611410" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8635" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059611410_3ec0ded9cf_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059159278" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8634" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059159278_68cd4fb6f1_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059165603" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8349" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059165603_6d75cffe4d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>松島海岸駅距離松島灣很近,但松島駅的開業時間比較早,昭和年代之前,要來松島,還是要在明治23年(1890年)開業的松島駅下車。</div><div><br /></div><div>現在的松島駅也不是當初的松島駅,日本鐵道株式會於明治23年(1890年)興建的松島駅位在東北本線的山線。到了大正11年(1922年),松島電車開始營運,一條從松島駅行駛到五大堂前的路面電車,讓前往松島更加便利。好景不常,經濟衰退導致遊客減少,使得這條路線虧損連連,昭和19年(1944年)廢線。</div><div><br /></div><div>在國有化之後,東北本線的海線於昭和19年(1944年)開業,新松島信號場也同時開業,之後升格為新松島駅,並在利府駅至松島駅的山線廢止後,取而代之,成為2代目松島駅。</div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059617905" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8350" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059617905_58f2b1cfe4_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059132696" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8351" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059132696_eb06897e74_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>松島海岸駅是宮城電氣鐵道於昭和2年(1927年)所興建,最初名為松島公園駅,國有化後改名為松島海岸駅。(後記:松島海岸駅在令和4年(2022年)重新改建完成,站房上層新設一座岸式月台,成為2面2線。)</div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059165528" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8352" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059165528_9459502e98_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059363174" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8627" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059363174_a6c5d4bb0c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059368589" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8368" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059368589_b642f28e41_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>或許今天是星期一的關係,上午的遊客不如前天來訪時多,這才發現到處都有"日本三景"的石碑與立牌,讓遊客拍照留念用,大概與日月潭的石碑有異曲同工之妙。<br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058094797" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8354" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058094797_b53da0dec3_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div><div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059165128" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8369" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059165128_b81265dd56_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div></div></div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059363804" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8608" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059363804_f44430bbd6_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>等等搭船後,沒有時間去瑞嚴寺了,趁沒什麼人潮時,再來一趟五大堂。<a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/08/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">五大堂是瑞嚴寺的境外佛堂</a>,靜靜地座落在鄰近海灣的小島上,向外望著松島灣。有趣的是,佛堂正對的方向,就是松島灣上著名的仁王島。</div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059617750" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8357" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059617750_0dd376f7c8_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059617690" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8360" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059617690_3a224abcf0_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059368684" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8365" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059368684_24b882caf1_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>倚在圍欄,靜靜感受微微的海風,這與前天人群絡繹不絕的心境大大不同,心情可以放的很松很鬆。</div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058094607" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8358" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058094607_8f47985072_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059368624" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8366" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059368624_d5a43cae9f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>時間差不多了,來去買船票。或許有人會覺得搭船遊湖很無趣,然而隨著年紀的增長,有些時候喜歡靜下心來,沒什麼目的地,佇足一下,然後腦中突然浮現「好久沒有像這樣了啊」!<br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059165098" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8372" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059165098_b13e28c982_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>上午的太陽狠毒辣,即使離登船還有幾分鐘,也要躲在室內防曬。<br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059617410" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8373" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059617410_e356df7631_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059368489" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8375" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059368489_032861ee0e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>觀光船載著前一批遊客返航,工作人員簡單清刷後,接著輪到載我們去繞一圈。<br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059132261" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8376" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059132261_ee5909a0ea_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059368439" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8377" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059368439_ef37267159_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059164913" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8378" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059164913_f219f9c2b4_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>觀光船由「<a href="https://www.matsushima.or.jp/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">松島環島觀光船企業組合</a>」與「<a href="https://www.marubun-kisen.com/index.php" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">丸文松島汽船株式會社</a>」2間業者營運,都有航行環松島灣的路線,前者稱為仁王丸路線,後者稱為政宗路線,要選搭哪一艘船,就看各人喜好。</div><div><br /></div><div>丸文松島汽船另有定時往返松島與塩釜的芭蕉路線,松島環島觀光船則有往返大高森的航線,但是不定期,需另外詢問。</div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058094082" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8379" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058094082_3ca8fdbafa_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>船票1500円,登上第三仁王丸,上船後再加付600円,來到上層的座艙。上下兩層座艙沒有太大的差異,上面空間除了比較有質感之外,座位間隔也比較寬敞,還多了一張餐桌。</div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058094012" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8384" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058094012_8953d4a091_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058094052" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8382" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058094052_88dc3206fc_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059132011" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8385_1" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059132011_705230ae7b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>對了,還多了一個餐飲販售區,啟航後就會開始營業。<br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058093962" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8386" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058093962_f76722a673_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>啟航後,往塩釜的芭蕉丸也跟著出航。五大堂、松島城日本三景展望台、沿岸的現代建築,背景畫面說不出來的奇妙,或許當年<a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/08/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">松島觀光飯店</a>的二之丸本館有保留下來,畫面會協調一些。</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059164593" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8397" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059164593_53a8fa8572_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059164543" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8398" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059164543_3104000b73_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div></div></div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059131891" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8392_stitch" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059131891_5accd255fe_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><div><br /></div><div>自古被稱為「奧州の高野」的松島,是死者前往極樂淨土及生者為亡者祈求冥福的靈場,習俗會將亡者一部份遺骨雄島,奉獻給神佛。如今雄島周遭最多的,是一艘又一艘新穎的快艇與帆船。<br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059617095" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8391" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059617095_d6574b6228_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059131721" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8399" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059131721_a405845477_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059131636" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8401" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059131636_73f4f5dd4c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059367879" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8402" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059367879_58f97394c4_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>這些在海上星羅棋佈的小島,島上插滿了高聳的松樹,松樹的高度甚至比小島露出海平面的高度來的高。<br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059131576" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8403" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059131576_ef1bc376f6_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058093522" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8404_stitch" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058093522_85fb41959d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><div><br /></div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059616460" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8409" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059616460_4bb9790629_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059367619" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8410" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059367619_1a9da2fa1f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div><div>古時,因為沒有辦法確切計算這些島嶼的數量,於是給予了「八百八島」的稱號。到了明治後期,比較明確地指出約有240多座島嶼,然而,這個數字一直在變,因為有的島嶼被填埋,有的因為地震或自然崩落而沉入海底。</div><div><br /></div><div>後來在昭和40年代左右,一致認定松島灣上有260餘座島嶼。除此之外,也有學者認為,若把珊瑚礁岩一起納入的話,松島灣的島嶼數量則約為300餘座。</div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059367544" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8411" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059367544_d0ea2406df_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059367529" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8412" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059367529_f28f31ddd5_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058093077" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8413" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058093077_16f90fcd21_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059616285" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8415" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059616285_678d476708_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>打開地圖來看,整個仙台灣的弧形海岸線上,就只有松島灣這一個區域往內塌陷。理論普遍認為松島灣之所以那麼多島嶼,是從地質時代的上新世到更新世末期的地盤運動所致,造成現在的地貌。</div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059367389" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8416" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059367389_4930700d94_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058092987" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8420" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058092987_dd70b46cbb_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>海面中央插了一些竿子,應該是用來標示水位較淺的區域,以免船隻擱淺。海底較淺的區域,也容易因為海水波動,捲起底泥,使海水變的混濁。<br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059131021" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8424" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059131021_cf9f6b9048_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059616010" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8426" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059616010_3991e618d2_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>
<div><div>在後甲板站累了,就進來找個座位,邊吃零食,邊喝飲料,邊看風景。</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059163548" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8427" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059163548_a8b6c6273a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>海的顏色漸漸變深,轉為深邃的綠。學者認為上新世的仙台只是一座島,大規模的地殼運動讓陸地上浮,使陸地突出到現在的松島灣,形成半島的地形。隆起的陸地上有做由多做火山組成的奧羽山脈,由北向南延伸,稜線上的船形山向東南伸出一條支脈,支脈受到河川的侵蝕,刻出一道道山谷。</div><div><br /></div><div>更新世的初期,斷層運動使半島逐漸沉入海中,原本的山頭成了島嶼。到了中期,沉沒的半島再次隆起,成為海蝕台地,河川繼續侵蝕。更新世的末期,再次受到斷層影響,再次沉入海中。</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059130816" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8430" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059130816_342b22b575_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058092582" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8437" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058092582_fb91db2bee_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058092547" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8439" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058092547_b2ea6a5383_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div></div></div></div><div><div>突然,島嶼的後方出現樓房景物,觀光船已經來到松島灣西端的鹽竈市。</div><div><div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059615820" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8436" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059615820_0b2b097e35_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div></div></div></div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059366769" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8440" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059366769_65870c224a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059163288" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8442_1_stitch" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059163288_ffb462e6dc_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>隔壁代ヶ崎浜的仙台火力發電廠,一想到前天衝到火力發電廠旁邊的<a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/08/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">多聞山</a>山頂,異想天開想看日落,就覺得自己很蠢。</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059130776" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8434" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059130776_7d12daa9a7_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059163253" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8445" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059163253_0b4105e66a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>再往前航行,觀光船就會出海了,穿過馬放島與桂道之間的鐘島水道,就要向左繞行桂島,走石浜水道回去囉。<br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059366669" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8446" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059366669_d0c272474a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059615575" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8447" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059615575_9610b8e10e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059163163" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8449" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059163163_08838d6b57_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059615500" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8451" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059615500_13c90329c4_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>經過陸地反覆的隆起、侵蝕、沈降,造就現在的松島灣。沒有沒入海中的部分,成為松島丘陵,而松島灣因為被丘陵包圍,河流的沉積作用沒有在此發揮,沒有形成沖積平原。因此,松島灣中央沒有島嶼的海域,沒有發生堆積,仍維持著沉入海中前的地形,被認為是曾在山谷中的平原地帶。<br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059130306" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8452" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059130306_0a9ac82ca7_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058092167" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8453" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058092167_8e89b5f85e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059162938" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8454" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059162938_9155bcf45b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059615330" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8455" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059615330_75e6fe52cc_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><div><br /></div><div>這些散步海面的嶙峋怪石,是由火山碎屑岩的凝灰岩、砂岩、礫岩構成,地質非常脆弱,容易受到海浪拍打的侵蝕,已至岩石呈現沖刷後的銳角。</div><div><br /></div><div>在海浪與風化長期的侵蝕下,有些島嶼的樣貌今昔已有不小的差距。昭和45年(1970年),有位台灣僧人在松島灣遇到暴風雨,親眼目睹荒岬島受到大雨侵襲,一夜坍塌消失的記錄。<br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059615235" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8457" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059615235_f09c6dc5aa_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059162808" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8459" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059162808_fe379ff4db_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059366169" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8461" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059366169_a06c395f66_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059615045" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8462" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059615045_7e7798c0ca_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>仁王島是松島灣的象徵物,仁王是佛教徒對佛的尊稱,這座島嶼的外型就像仁王坐著抽著捲煙的形貌。嗯....是有點難想像!</div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059129891" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8463" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059129891_b312746088_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059365994" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8464" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059365994_7ccacd1df1_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059614790" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8470" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059614790_56dda166dc_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>除了松樹與島嶼的奇景,松島另一個知名之處,便是賞月聖地。</div><div><br /></div><div>江戶前期的儒學家 - 林鵞峰在寬永20年(1643年)的『日本國事跡考』著作中寫到,「松島、この島の外に小島若干あり、ほとんど盆池月波の景の如し、境致の佳なる、丹後天橋立・安芸厳島と三処の奇観となす」。</div><div><br /></div><div>這句話道出小島林立、月色倒映的松島灣,也點出丹後天橋立及安藝嚴島,成了日本三景的由來。日本三景各自代表的「雪月花」,則是天橋立的雪、松島的月、嚴島的花。</div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058091527" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8471" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058091527_a9ff3cb793_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059129571" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8473" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059129571_a33d5cab9b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058091372" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8482" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058091372_3d4f4b5ace_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059129256" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8489" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059129256_e788579eb9_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059162138" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8490" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059162138_6e08260e25_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>日本鼎鼎大名的俳聖 - 松尾芭蕉,延保年間曾對松島月色的憧憬吟誦,「武蔵野の月の若生えや松島種」。元祿2年(1689年)的春天,松尾芭蕉從江戶出發,探訪東北奧州,再經北陸道,沿著日本海側返回江戶。</div><div><br /></div><div>這趟旅程中,5月9日,松尾芭蕉與門下弟子 - 河合曾良,來到了松島。松尾芭蕉對眼前景色讚嘆不已,無法用筆墨形容,「いづれの人か筆をふるひ詞ことばを尽くさむ」,沒有留下俳句。</div><div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059614460" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8483" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059614460_6c0a83b798_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059129181" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8493" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059129181_0971153dc5_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059614240" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8496" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059614240_52579e4fb3_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059129141" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8497" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059129141_f2497c06bc_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058090942" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8511" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058090942_d48ee63c87_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><div>之後,松尾芭蕉將這150多天的巡遊見聞,攥寫成後來大家而熟能詳的大作《奧之細道(おくのほそ道)》。</div><div><br /></div><div><div>在序言中寫著,「もゝ引の破をつゞり、笠の緒付かえて、三里に灸すゆるより、松島の月先心にかゝりて、住る方は人に譲り、杉風が別墅に移るに、草の戸も住替る代ぞひなの家面八句を庵の柱に懸置。」,可見松尾芭蕉對松島的月色別有感觸。而在松島篇章中,收錄了弟子河合曾良的俳句,「松島や 鶴に身を借れ ほととぎす」。</div></div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059161913" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8500" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059161913_c4f5daa353_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059129036" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8505" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059129036_320cf0616b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059161808" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8512" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059161808_6273a9f23d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059365284" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8513" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059365284_35329f8f0d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059365134" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8517" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059365134_f86f0876d3_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><div><br /></div></div></div><div>據說愛因斯坦在大正11年(1922年)造訪日本時,曾於12月從仙台搭車來到松島,再換搭松島電車至五大堂前,那時已過午後4點,月夜已從海上升起,美得另愛因斯坦無法言語。</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059365219" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8515" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059365219_3cbe1dce54_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br />
<div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059128821" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8516" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059128821_214fde9084_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059365084" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8525" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059365084_1982f1052c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058090707" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8528" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058090707_a64c11d799_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>本來搭觀光船是想要放空發呆,沒想到反而目不暇給,每一座島嶼都各有特色、各有千秋,松樹茂密濃綠,姿態曼妙,還來不及欣賞完,下一座就又出現了,眼睛很忙。</div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059161528" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8530" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059161528_b6acde0449_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059161508" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8532" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059161508_354017998c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059161488" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059161488_4596115c3e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059161343" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8540" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059161343_a9984a1793_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059128521" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8538" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059128521_33ae1f9f1c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059161223" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8549" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059161223_9ff3a48975_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058090362" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8551" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058090362_813e93fe54_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059613390" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8553" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059613390_2a90f3f6d8_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>松島灣上最具代表性的仁王島,島上一棵松樹也沒有。另一座島,島上只有一棵松樹,非常特別,是稱霸奧羽的伊達政宗,最喜歡的一座島嶼。當伊達政宗遊覽海灣時,說出:誰能把這座島搬到我的居館,我就賞予千貫錢。</div><div><br /></div><div>從此之後,這座島就有了千貫島的名稱。至於千貫有多少?1貫就是把錢幣串在一條繩子上,等於1千文,等於1000枚錢幣,千貫就是1000000文,生活會非常好過!</div><div><div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059128161" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8565" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059128161_a9ca6a4068_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div></div></div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058090112" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8561" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058090112_fc1a5b4575_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058090227" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8559_stitch" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058090227_b610e1b416_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><div><div><br /></div></div></div></div><div>朱紅色的福浦橋從島嶼邊緣探出頭來,就表示觀光船快要靠岸了,看了下時間,遊船約50分鐘,一飽眼福,並不無趣,有種收穫滿滿的感覺。<br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059364619" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8554" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059364619_e70c00ce2d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059127976" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8583_stitch" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059127976_b16fa287ae_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058089817" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8588" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058089817_cc18b83d15_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><div><div><br /></div></div></div></div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059160958" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8566" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059160958_1ff0f72bd2_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059613100" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8573_stitch" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059613100_fe234e0523_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><div>下船前,看了一下貼在餐飲販售區附近的簡介,原來仁王島也與野柳的女王頭一樣,也同樣面臨快要斷頭的命運,所以在下方用混凝土作了補強,抵擋波濤無情地拍打。</div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059127946" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8585" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059127946_3585617c34_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059612810" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8589" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059612810_2c9fb3a657_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>隔壁的あすか正在清潔中,準備下一趟的出航。不得不說,業者都知道來搭船的遊客就是要看景,每一趟啟航前都會把窗戶玻璃刷乾淨,真的是很用心。<div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059160623" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8592" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059160623_eae9a2b7f0_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059127771" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8590" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059127771_c567e5c314_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>看了下時間,離下一班車還有點時間,慢慢晃回去車站。<br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059127701" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8599" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059127701_30eab9d1a8_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>某店家的櫥櫃上,塗成白色的石頭(應該吧?),再畫成武將的頭盔,有獨眼龍伊達政宗的三日月兜、德川家康的大黒頭巾形兜、真填幸村的鹿角兜,好可愛啊。<br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059612590" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8603" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059612590_8784b68224_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><div><br /></div><div>還是不死心的走來<a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/08/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">松島城展望台</a>,還是一樣沒有開放,這麼好的天氣,從上面晀望一定有很棒的景色。</div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058089357" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8606" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058089357_4457640ec4_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059127496" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8605" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059127496_dc5ef189b6_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058089492" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8604" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058089492_7b320f7da0_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>看到店家外牆上的手繪海鮮料理,肚子也咕嚕咕嚕叫了,買了牡蠣可樂餅止餓。<br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058089252" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8610" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058089252_5c3a148dcb_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059363644" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8613" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059363644_ce7f4f34df_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059160028" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8614" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059160028_f4583d2d53_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>松島海岸廣場上,也有著許多高聳的松樹,遠看蒼翠挺拔,近看樹姿蒼勁優美,別有一番韻味。</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059363454" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8619" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059363454_ae901d34f0_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059127176" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8617" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059127176_5c58a945c0_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>等等!路旁施工圍籬立牌居然是飯糰丸(むすび丸)的造型,Hello Kitty的造型就算了,東北的居民怎麼能忍受伊達政宗被鋼管插穿頭與肚子呢!<br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059363564" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8618" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059363564_fc1490cc95_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div>看著為在坡面上的月台,就好像一座特別設計的觀景台,讓遊客坐在椅子上欣賞風景,只可惜能晀望海灣的角度太小,有點美中不足。<div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059126931" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8623" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059126931_595a216871_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059611860" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8624" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059611860_78eecbfcf6_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059363209" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8626" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059363209_235e6205cb_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>回程一樣是搭乘仙石線,先回到仙台,再趕搭新幹線。<br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058088562" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8628" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058088562_6bf655454c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>站房牆上除了運費表外,所有的空間都拿來張貼海報了,不浪費能打廣告的空間。<br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059126686" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8629" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059126686_fa6ea9e50e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059159338" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8633" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059159338_c6829b7a36_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>來的時候沒有特別留意,現在才發現月台南北兩端都是隧道,等車之餘,就來拍火車過山洞~<br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059611685" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8630" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059611685_05d74cd577_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059159423" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8631" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059159423_3e12339ac4_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><div><br /></div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058088227" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8636" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058088227_5ab8fafbd6_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059126341" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8638" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059126341_9121381ddb_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>月台北側直接與階梯相連,沒有空間可以拍攝,僅有南側可站。還在先進站的是往石卷方向的205系3100番台電車。不一會,往仙台方向的列車也跟著進站,畢竟仙石線只有從起點青葉通駅與東鹽釜駅之間有複線,東鹽釜駅與石卷駅之間僅有單線,上下行列車需要算好時間,在每一站的月台交會。<br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058088127" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8644" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058088127_5fffe1487a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059362509" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8649" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059362509_8b78f40739_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>回到仙台,站內轉乘新幹線,通道上的「仙台駅の思い出」展示著歷代優等列車的頭牌(Head Mark),紀念JR仙台駅開業130週年。這些頭牌是1950年代東北新幹線開通前,負責運行的優等列車的愛稱,共11款。</div><div><div>機關車取付型:はつかり、ゆうづる、はくつる</div><div>特急取付型:はつかり(キハ81系)、ひばり・ひたち(483系)</div><div>特急繪幕型:ひばり、やまびこ(485系)、ゆうづる(583系)</div><div>急行取付型:まつしま、みやぎの(451系)</div></div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059362374" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8658" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059362374_2e13f4b547_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059611015" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8659" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059611015_09d87c936b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>新幹線月台在車站的4樓,3樓與2樓是新幹線與在來線的站房。繼續使用5日的「JR東北.南北海道鐵道路周遊券」,北上前往北上~</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059610910" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8668" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059610910_a445b38c1d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>這座東北地方最大都市的車站,在明治20年(1887年)開業之前,前身是木道社的宮城木道,現在仙台港南側的蒲生,位在七北田川的出海口,在明治初期是連接東京的海上運輸重要據點。</div><div><br /></div><div>由於蒲生與仙台之間的陸路運輸條件較差,常有貨物運不出去而堆積滯留的狀況,於是明治15年(1882年)鋪設一條連接仙台的軌道,供馬車運行。這段路程距離將近3里,鋪設的方式是下方鋪設方木角材,木頭上方在覆蓋鐵板,所以稱之為木道。雖然這樣的耐用性及強度低於進口的鐵軌,但成本便宜許多。直到日本鐵道株式會社的鐵道路線從上野開通到鹽竈後,木道社於明治21年(1889年)清算廢業。</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059362269" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8664" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059362269_ecf2765d46_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059125981" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8660" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059125981_04efcb051e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059362229" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8665" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059362229_99daf75317_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><div>日本鐵道通車後的仙台,與東京上野的連結縮短為12小時20分。到了大正15年(1926年),日本鐵道被國有化,東北本線正式命名,再加上電氣化,此時仙台與上野之間的旅程已經縮短至8小時內。</div><div><br /></div><div>仙台駅從初代的木造平屋,很快就在明治27年(1894年)將站房改建為氣派的2層樓建築。隨著磐城線(現今的常磐線)通車、宮城電鐵的仙石線加入、仙山東線與仙山西線(現今的仙山線)相繼連結、仙台市電開通,仙台駅的客運人數直線上升,即使貨運量不如青森及鹽釜等站,仍是東北地區進出乘客最多的車站。</div><div><br /></div><div>後來車站站房又進行過擴建與改造,但在昭和20年(1945年)7月的仙台空襲中,遭美軍投擲的燃燒彈燒毀。現在的站房已經是第6代,在來線月台地上有4面8線,地下1面2線,雖然仙台市電在汽車的普及之後廢止,後來又加入了東北新幹線,月台2面4線,總計7面14線;另外還有地下鐵2面4線,在歷經130餘年後,仍穩座東北,屹立不搖。</div></div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059125786" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8677" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059125786_1a9c3cc701_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059362114" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8683" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059362114_124b2152db_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>54分鐘後來到北上駅。</div><div><br /></div><div>北上駅只比仙台駅晚幾年開業,最初的站名為黒澤尻駅,明治23年(1890年)開業。一直到了昭和29年(1954年)稱為「昭和の大合併」的行政區域合併,才改名為北上駅。</div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058087617" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8688" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058087617_0c96332343_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>新幹線的部分,擁有一座島式月台及一座岸式月台,2面3線;在來線則是2面4線,除了東北本線之外,另一條是大正10年(1921年)向西連結秋田縣橫手市的橫黑線,路線名稱是將黒澤尻與橫手各取一個字。</div><div><br /></div><div>然而,黒澤尻在昭和29年(1954年)改名北上後,一直到昭和41年(1966年),橫黑線才改名為北上線。至於路線名稱為什麼不再個取一個字,就不得而知了。這樣子,這條東西向的路線,看到北上這一詞,就很容易想成是南北向了~</div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059158473" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8689" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059158473_f660888c52_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059158438" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8693" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059158438_2ca5e2c530_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>站房大廳櫥櫃中展示著北上著名的鬼劍舞,每年8月第一個星期五開始為期3天的北上・陸奧藝能祭(北上・みちのく芸能まつり),除了鬼劍舞之外,還有東北各地像是鹿踊り、虎舞,以及奉納神明歌舞的神樂,最後是在北上川河岸的花火大會收尾,是東北六大祭之一。</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059158353" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8697" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059158353_974d9c8417_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059361944" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8696" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059361944_9cd180e620_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><div><br />
<div>從車站開始就有相當明顯的方向指引牌,不虧是賞櫻旺季的展勝地公園,完全不用拿出手機地圖察看,順著箭頭走就行了。<div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058087382" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8698" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058087382_2af6f19c4b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059610560" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8699" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059610560_ffb22b5599_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059158238" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8701" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059158238_2b2f09abc4_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>沿途的櫻花已經盛開,對展勝地公園的花況更加充滿期待!</div><div><br /></div><div>北上市在岩手縣內的人口僅次於盛岡市、奧州市、一關市,與前面3座相比,算是比較晚發展的市鎮。在江戶時期,這地方的北邊是盛岡藩,南邊是仙台藩,因為南部氏與伊達氏的關係還不錯,這區域的土地就比較開放。到了昭和30年代,以介於花卷與水澤之間的農業地帶開始發展起來。</div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059361714" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8702" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059361714_1df8f5849c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059610370" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8704" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059610370_346eab602d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059610340" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8705" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059610340_f7e35a3d88_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>穿過屋舍巷弄,北上川柔靜的河面橫過眼前,河對岸一整排的紅粉櫻花,就是展勝地公園了。</div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059158008" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8706_stitch" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059158008_9d752ecb5b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059610230" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8708" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059610230_55c2b1d582_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058084877" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8794_1" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058084877_c45d4b290d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>遊覽船輕輕劃過藍寶石般的河面上,倘佯在如畫般的美景中。</div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059361344" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8712" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059361344_086b830f4e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059609990" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8714" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059609990_db458d2886_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>鯉魚旗在徐徐微風中飄逸,好不愜意。<br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059157603" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8719" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059157603_55e7c847a3_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059157423" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8729" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059157423_858c913516_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059124666" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8728" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059124666_3bed75c159_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>北上市有過2次的行政區域合併,「昭和の大合併」後,成了以原黒澤尻町為中心的市鎮,以北上川及北上盆地為名,命名為北上市。「平成の大合併」再與西側的江釣子村及和賀町等等合併,就成了現在的北上市。由於奥羽山脈及北上高地夾著北上盆地,位在盆地中央的北上市,有著直向與橫向的鐵道與公路,以及工業發展政策的加持下,有著「東北の十字路」的名號。</div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059609730" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8730" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059609730_878820ccb8_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059609645" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8732" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059609645_556c78ec05_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059360789" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8733_1" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059360789_a3187b89d8_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>紅粉的櫻花就在珊瑚橋的對岸,心情更是迫不及待,加快了步伐。<br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059360734" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8734" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059360734_a2266136df_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>站在河道中央遙望,遊覽船輕輕劃過的漣漪,馬上就被平靜的水流撫平,慢慢地流往遠方,舊河道的盡頭,是早晨我們從田代島回到石卷的渡輪乘降處。</div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059157013" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8738" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059157013_d64b992be8_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059155713" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8789_stitch" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059155713_19da20e590_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059609310" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8739" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059609310_710fffe5ff_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059360409" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8741" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059360409_f4971c75cd_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>橋面穿越樹梢,嬌嫩的花瓣,觸手可及。<br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059360359" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8743" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059360359_6c4d498c1b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>整排的櫻花樹旁,矗立著2棵超級高的大樹,枯了葉的枝頭,倘若是銀杏,盛開的冬季也一定很壯觀。<br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059360299" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8745" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059360299_5b6e776f5c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058085992" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8748" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058085992_b8c3a71d6b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059359269" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8777" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059359269_0517ffe5c5_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>展勝地公園在大正10年(1921年)開園,由已故的黒澤尻町長 - 澤藤幸治發起的民間團體和賀展勝會於前一年設立,在北上川的左岸種植約2公里的櫻花樹,於平成2年(1990年)被選為「日本さくら名所100選」。</div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059609070" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8751" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059609070_864168cc1f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><div><br /></div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059156448" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8757" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059156448_ca0b2c6055_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059123841" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8754" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059123841_e23e2d306b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059359754" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8761" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059359754_445e9005e7_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>這種地方當然少不了熟食攤販,受不了撲鼻而來的醬香味,買了份大阪燒與章魚燒,坐在河岸邊慢慢享用。<br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059608700" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8763_stitch" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059608700_d6af0ae9e3_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059608585" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8766" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059608585_a21b849800_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>坐在河岸邊,配著美食,靜靜地賞櫻,在愜意不過了。以前總覺得到了一個景點,就非得要從頭走到尾,才算來過。但這種有來過,還挺累人的,現在比較適合靜心賞析。</div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058085352" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8770" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058085352_b6d18b406a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059123301" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8772" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059123301_fe57b011e0_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>接下來沒有別的行程了,返回仙台之前,再好好沉浸在被櫻花包圍的感覺,品味悠閒的滋味。<br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059608370" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8773" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059608370_02189f4bfa_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><div><br /></div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059123161" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8778" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059123161_3bcf87270c_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059155863" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8779" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059155863_91df4a0271_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059608240" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8786" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059608240_a5a5a7a005_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div>從河岸要轉入某條前往車站的小路,不經意撞見黒澤尻河港跡的立牌,介紹著北上川舟運時代的歷史。<br />
<div><br /></div><div>北上市最初可追溯到安平時代,前天在<a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/08/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">多賀城</a>提到,安平時代的陸奧國常與北方蝦夷發生衝突,顯得當時律令制無法有效支配東北,於是開始設置城柵官衙,因而有了多賀柵。</div><div><div><br /></div><div>平安後期的奧州十二年合戰之中,前九年之役時設置了黒澤尻柵。江戶時期五街道的奥州街道,從<a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/07/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">盤城國的白石</a>、陸前國的仙台繼續往北,也來到陸中國的和賀郡,在此設立黒澤尻宿,宿場位置在現今的本通り松屋吳服店一帶。</div></div><div><br /></div><div>奥州街道不遠處,南北向的北上川也同時在江戶時繁忙起來。在與黒澤尻合併之前,和賀的農業發達,是盛岡藩的穀倉,稻米的運輸造就北上川舟運的全盛時期,東西向的和賀川與北上川匯流後,讓黒澤尻成了盛岡藩南端的轉運站,設立了藩倉、御藏奉行、御船奉行、造船廠,民間商船也紛紛湧入,讓黒澤尻逐漸繁榮起來。</div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059155623" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8795" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059155623_8fcfe89956_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058084837" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8796" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058084837_4564ed77f5_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058084802" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8797" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058084802_3f26eeec72_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059155478" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8798" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059155478_10d5e2a8ca_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>江戶時代的稻米運輸稱為廻米輸送,是將稻米、大豆等穀物運送至江戶及大阪。這樣的制度起源參勤交代的制度有關,江戶幕府為了避免地方大名勢力過於強大,大名每年需要前往江戶替幕府將軍執行政務,妻子則在江戶長期居住,成為幕府的人質。</div><div><br /></div><div>居住在江戶的這段期間,各藩大名需要自行負擔生活物資,因此導致了廻米輸送的發展。盛岡藩藉由北上川舟運,從黒澤尻到下游的石卷僅需3天時間,逆行則為10天,將稻米運至石卷後,再用海運轉往江戶,比起陸運,大大降低了成本。</div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059122781" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8799" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059122781_de2ab95b81_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059358409" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8809" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059358409_02d0eee947_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><div>明治政府上台後,廻米的需求消失,北上川的舟運需求驟降,但畢竟有輸出就有輸入,當時除了將稻米運出外,還有木材、大豆、銅、藥草等等,再將鹽、砂糖、衣物等雜貨運回盛岡藩。</div><div><br /></div><div>靠著載人及運載生活物資,北上川舟運延續到了明治中期。明治23年(1890年),盛岡駅開業,隔年盛岡到青森的路段也完成,東北本線上野至青森全線開通,北上川舟運一瞬間衰退,從此消失,只剩下寥寥無幾的歷史痕跡。</div></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059122251" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8811" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059122251_5d63b42c6c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059607370" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8812" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059607370_8ebcf362af_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058084187" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8814" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058084187_8d07665921_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div></div></div></div></div></div><div>回到北上駅,離發車只剩5分鐘,票務人員不想我們跑得太趕,換給我們下一班車的票,就來去西口外晃晃,打發多出來的一小時的候車時間。</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059155248" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8804" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059155248_80c99b1b4c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059155333" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8801" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059155333_8bf7044982_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>走出西口,大多旅館都聚集於此,但沒有太多可逛之處,若要走到商家較多的本通り,時間又不足。車站西口對面的Odense Plaza Globe,看似很大的百貨公司,裡面卻有點老舊,商家也寥寥可數,很快走完,無處可去,只好再回到車站內。</div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058084547" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8803" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058084547_da9b65cc64_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><div><div><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059358519" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8805" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059358519_d637046a8e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>西口站房的牆上,大大的鬼劍舞浮雕磚,很吸引目光,也默默在心裡記下一筆,除了春天賞櫻之外,8月還能來此欣賞北上・陸奧藝能祭。</div><div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059607660" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8806" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059607660_b2e7265a3d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52508047418" target="_blank"><img alt="201904花喵_190530_0014" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52508047418_c2cddfb851_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059607350" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_8813" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059607350_169773975c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div></div></div></div><div><br /></div><div>搭上新幹線,一邊聽著列車內的廣播,另一邊腦中浮出北上川行舟的想像畫面。過去最快也要3天的行程,如今半天內就從石卷來北上,這種說不上來的感覺,等等回到仙台後,還是趕快吃個烤牛舌,平復一下!</div><div><div><br /><div></div><div>2019.04</div><div></div><br /><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/01/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本函館追櫻:五稜郭.弁天台場.函館山.新選組土方歲三</a><br /><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/04/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本盛岡追櫻:道南漁火鐵道.津輕海峽渡輪.石割櫻.盛岡城</a></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/05/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本宮城追櫻:藏王狐狸村.白石藏王駅</a></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/07/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本宮城追櫻:白石城.船岡城址公園.一目千本櫻</a></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/08/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本宮城追櫻:多賀城.松島</a></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/10/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本宮城追櫻:漫畫小鎮石卷.猫の島田代島住一晚</a></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/12/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本宮城追櫻:仙台夜櫻.夜景.米澤牛.烤牛舌「閣」</a></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2023/05/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本山形追櫻:寶珠山立石寺.山寺駅</a></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2023/07/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本宮城追櫻:仙台城.烤牛舌「伊達の牛たん本舗」</a></div>Laxichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04802970745091107114noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37782309.post-79896377553808082762022-10-06T18:16:00.009+08:002023-07-11T17:05:43.494+08:00日本宮城追櫻:漫畫小鎮石卷.猫の島田代島住一晚<div>在去過福岡的<a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2019/01/day-3-1.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">相島</a>與<a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2018/09/day-2-1.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">藍島</a>之後,很享受那種被群貓包圍的尊榮感,這次來到仙台,當然要到貓奴聖地的田代島朝聖,然後在島上住一晚。</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059334084" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059334084_24d6686206_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><span><a name='more'></a></span><div><br /></div><div>前一晚太晚回到房間沒留意,早晨拉開窗,就看到隼號(はやぶさ)拉著小町號(こまち),緩緩駛離仙台駅。接著背上背包,從這間東橫INN仙台駅西口中央店,走去不遠處的車站,搭乘JR仙石東北線到石卷。</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058065992" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058065992_89d1477fa4_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058065967" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058065967_9a2c226399_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>預定7:24發車的快速列車已經停靠在月台等候,離發車還有10餘分鐘,還有座位可坐。</div><div><br /></div><div>仙石東北線在平成27年(2015年)開通,全名為「仙石線・東北本線接續線」,作為311東日本大地震後,振興那些遭受巨變的市鎮。這輛HB-E210系柴聯車在路線開通時,同時服役,車身上的藍色代表仙石線,粉紅代表沿線聞名的鹽竈櫻花(シオガマザクラ),青綠色則是東北本線的代表色,透過四方形色塊的重疊圖樣,作為仙台地區與石卷地區之間的聯繫。</div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058065942" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058065942_b441e83ffa_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059136938" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059136938_7f3058d272_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059339964" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059339964_738192ee62_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>55分鐘的車程,在暖氣的放送下,不敵睡意,醒來已經抵達石卷駅。我們停靠的月台另一側,巧好停著<a href="http://www.mangattan.jp/manga/liner/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">仙石線マンガッタンライナー号</a>的彩繪列車。</div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058065897" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058065897_ac0e7fcba5_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059103596" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059103596_93e2fa418d_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059589225" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059589225_344913bf19_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058065837" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058065837_888bb5fa48_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>我們來訪時,遇到的是2種塗裝中的マンガッタンライナーⅡ,4節車廂分別有《人造人009 (サイボーグ009)》、《時代劇》、《星星王子(星の子チョビン)》、《假面騎士(仮面ライダー)》,原作品全都出自漫畫家 - 石之森章太郎。</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059339744" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059339744_1d091b8fdd_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059136848" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059136848_9d933ebe50_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059589185" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059589185_d7bb3a6595_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>仙石線マンガッタンライナー号的車輛採用205系電車,片甲名マンガッタン取自萬畫館的萬畫,石之森萬畫館是紀念宮城縣登米郡出生的石之森章太郎,本名小野寺章太郎,是產出作品最多的漫畫家。</div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059339759" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059339759_38c27cb43d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059589055" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059589055_fdc353d5fe_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059103361" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059103361_9522615461_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>雖然石之森章太郎是出生於宮城縣登米郡,但在平成7年(1995年)與石卷市長的會面談話中,談到將石巻市街活化,提出漫畫博物館的構想,為小鎮帶來熱鬧的氛圍。</div><div><br /></div><div>這想法在平成10年(1998年)石之森章太郎死後仍繼續下去,平成12年(2001年),<a href="https://www.mangattan.jp/manga/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">石之森萬畫館(石ノ森萬画館)</a>正式開館。宮城縣登米郡則另外設有<a href="https://www.city.tome.miyagi.jp/kinenkan/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">石ノ森章太郎ふるさと記念館</a>。</div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059136638" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059136638_f61cd308e2_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058065677" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058065677_19b2809921_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>列車前方也有不同的角色,往仙台方向是《假面騎士》,往石卷方向是《海之戰士海斗(シージェター海斗)》。</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059588940" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059588940_1617c1cefa_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059588905" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059588905_a599553a6a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059339439" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059339439_3eb57388e8_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>石卷線的南三陸快速列車正好進站,キハ110系柴聯車,塗裝主體以略帶綠色的白色,加上灰綠的色調,挺吸引目光的。</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059103161" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059103161_e2602181bc_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div></div><div><br /></div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059588965" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059588965_073b4a205e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058065542" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058065542_d48ef85b8b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>站內也有許多巧思,不單單漫畫人物的雕像與彩繪,連廁所的標示都讓我不禁會心一笑。</div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059103151" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059103151_50220f37d2_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059103006" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059103006_b69fb41e99_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059339269" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059339269_c7835d29c9_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>飛行姿態的人造人009島村喬,與滑行姿態的假面騎士,急著去廁所的人,一定也很想這樣加速飛奔進廁所,誰也不要阻擋去路。</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059339294" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059339294_ca569e001f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059588790" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059588790_220e474373_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>月台棚架立柱上的站名標示牌,還是由むすび丸這位飯團臉的伊達政宗擔當。</div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059136383" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059136383_4e11e52348_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059103096" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059103096_5a1cfc6a23_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059588720" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059588720_e0346bae8c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div></div></div></div><div>石卷駅有2座島式月台及1座岸式月台,2面5線,分別有JR仙石東北線、JR石卷線,以及作為終點站的JR仙石線。</div><div><br /></div><div>月台上的站名牌也加上顏色,綠色色帶加上了青綠(仙石東北線)、粉紅(石卷線)、藍色(仙石線)的代表色,好辨識各線會停靠的月台。</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059136798" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059136798_1d511e2d7c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059588685" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059588685_e82a2936e8_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>站房出入口的彩繪玻璃超級醒目,人造人009的角色一字排開。算來算去,只有8位,少了嬰兒改造的001的伊凡維斯基。<br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059588625" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059588625_51145f25b3_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>門外有人造人003法蘭索娃阿爾達努,屋簷上是會飛行的002傑特林格。<br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058065252" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058065252_0eac7e1b8a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059136198" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059136198_b84a1c5d5a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>窗邊的大鼻子是006張張湖,身材被拉高,變瘦許多,應該是後期帥版動畫出現的模樣。</div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059588545" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059588545_c0abb45396_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>站外廣場突然來個溫馨的母子像,氣氛轉換得太快,心情來不及轉換。雕像的作者是出生於石卷市的高橋英吉,人稱美術界未來的天才彫刻家,在二戰瓜達康納爾島戰役戰死,享年31歲。<br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059102896" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059102896_96f0b4ce41_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>車站不可或缺的時鐘 - 石卷駅からくり時計,上面是海之戰士海斗的主角 - 鳴海光真,下方藏有機關人偶,因為與船的時間衝突,沒機會等到整點。</div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059136128" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059136128_bf46ac42d1_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>沒有開放的站房側門,上方彩繪玻璃是時代劇、星星王子、假面騎士等綜合角色。<br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058065162" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058065162_785d3e0ef6_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>從車站到搭船處,距離1.2km,只能靠雙腳或計程車,沒有巴士可搭。離開船還有半小時,時間還算充裕,走路逛逛漫畫小鎮,看看有什麼驚奇~<br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059588440" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059588440_304c1d453e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059588410" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059588410_e223753758_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>漫畫大街從車站前方的駅前大通リ開始,001伊凡維斯基與005索羅門索尼亞的雕像出現了。</div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059588380" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059588380_40467739de_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>接著要轉往金華山道,由009島村喬守在轉角。<br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059102741" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059102741_8c5a5fb603_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>金華山道上的004亞柏特海恩利希,唯獨這尊雕像腳下有花籃,連主角009都沒有這樣的待遇。</div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059580095" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059580095_7a979e8aae_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>漫畫大街也是通往石之森萬畫館的方向,兩旁路燈立柱上都掛著動畫人物的旗幟。</div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058064982" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058064982_c39ed2bdd7_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059338954" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059338954_1722d5628a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>再來是007葛雷特布林頓,以及006張張湖。</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059135958" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059135958_6e062af6c9_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059127918" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059127918_431e6e9b6f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>再來換假面騎士出場,兩旁商家也會自行擺設相關的動漫角色石像或雕像,有種邊走邊尋寶的樂趣。等等!好像漏掉了什麼!怎麼沒看到人造人008皮曼?</div><div><br /></div><div>算了,懶得回頭去找,去田代島與貓咪相見比較重要!</div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059580030" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059580030_ec3211a781_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>假面騎士系列的元祖 - 假面騎士1號,經典的姿勢,就差一輛Honda SL350K1改造的Cyclone機車了。</div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059127863" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059127863_bb455739f3_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><div><br /></div><div><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059101961_d63e129d54_o.jpg" width="100%" /></div><div><br /></div><div>單膝跪姿的假面騎士Black,黑漆漆的樣貌,很容易就聯想到《火星異種(テラフォーマーズ)》裡面完成500年進化成人形的蟑螂。<br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058056297" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058056297_6ff575dc78_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059102636" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059102636_2a68de81c7_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div><div>《假面騎士》也讓石之森章太郎開始與特攝作品有了連結。石之森章太郎高中畢業後,離家出走搬到東京,進駐挑戰職業漫畫家之路的常盤莊(トキワ莊),任漫畫之神手塚治虫的助手。同時期在常盤莊的漫畫家,還有寺田博雄、藤子不二雄Ⓐ、藤子·F·不二雄、赤塚不二夫等等,這些具有漫畫理想的新生代,組成了新漫畫黨。</div><div><br /></div><div>離開家鄉10年後,石之森章太郎第一部代表作《人造人009》問世。之後,以蝗蟲改造人為主角的《假面騎士》出版,受到受東映的邀約,參與《假面騎士》電視影集的製作,開啟了特攝之路。</div><div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059587260" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059587260_d5dac42e80_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div></div><div><br /></div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059337919" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059337919_c15f8f31bb_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><div><br /></div><div><div>「新台灣壁畫隊」在2012年的石卷陪伴計畫中,用藝術撫慰人心的作品,今日不經意地相遇。</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059588260" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059588260_e9045eb428_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div></div></div><div><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059101931_c79ed5a451_o.jpg" width="100%" /></div><div><br /></div><div><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059338279_f9273dd625_o.jpg" width="100%" /></div><div><div></div><br /><div></div><div></div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058064112" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058064112_dbd8f1fd56_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div></div></div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058063817" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058063817_f6493a4391_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>走在石卷市的街頭,說也奇怪,感覺相當的冷清,加上天空陰陰的,有點落寞的涼意。雖然石卷市是宮城縣第2大城,僅次於仙台市,但人口數不到15萬,與人口100萬出頭的仙台市,有極大的落差,大家都被城市都會吸過去了。</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059587255" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059587255_c077113745_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059101536" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059101536_aea97852ac_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div></div></div></div><div>路過石巻市かわまち交流センター,一樓算是旅遊觀光的資訊交流中心,落地窗內擺著《飆速宅男(弱虫ペダル)》的動畫看板,要是有時間,也想來趟Tour de Tohuku!</div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059134858" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059134858_5b8ae47a30_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059330744" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059330744_bef0344579_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059101446" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059101446_ea7f4ec5df_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div>沿著仲町通リ走一小段後,就出現田代島/網地島乘船處的指引告示牌。順著指引方向,繞到建築後方,面河濱那一側,「<a href="http://ajishimaline.com/index.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">網地島ライン 石巻中央発着所</a>」就出現了。<div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058063737" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058063737_5632556954_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059134773" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059134773_e29008ffd2_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>外頭已經有一些人在等待,就是這裡了,迫不及待買票去。<br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059134763" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059134763_c039a8899a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059094546" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059094546_cb554e9c79_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>售票處所在リバーサイド Motomachi的2樓,相當的新,Google Maps街景圖甚至都還沒有更新過這裡的影像,還停留在2013年的畫面。</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058056857" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058056857_4ec2afb7b7_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div></div><div>售票處裡面的擺設也很簡易,感覺像剛重新開張沒多久,船班資訊都先簡單的貼在活動白板架上。</div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059587030" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059587030_e99397064b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059579885" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059579885_c1b77c27ce_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>售票作業都交給Kiosk機台,照螢幕畫面上的指示點一點,塞入2460円,往返船票就得手囉。</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059101261" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059101261_859a1fe835_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059337739" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059337739_2a75918d1a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059331144" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059331144_f5cd275c78_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>堤防上可以看見石之森萬畫館,外觀是一艘白色半圓弧的宇宙船,立在舊北上川出海口的中瀬島上(為了防範北上川的水患,將北上川的河道引導致東邊的追波灣,稱為新北上川)。宇宙船是石之森章太郎的原始想法,他還認為漫畫應該要改稱為萬畫,樣才能傳達出漫畫的廣度與深度。</div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059580540" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059580540_18ba2a64b5_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058056817" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058056817_f761cb48ce_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>走下堤防,準備上船。</div><div><br /></div><div>前往田代島的渡輪航線是「網地島ライン」,往返石卷、田代島、網地島、鮎川。石卷有2個乘船碼頭,此處是中央發著所,另一個門協發著所比較靠近出海口,又更遠了。</div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059331184" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059331184_91306d53bc_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058056652" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058056652_783e0c05eb_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059331069" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059331069_3ab34bdc0b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>從石卷發船的渡輪,一天只有3個船次,分別是9:00、12:30、15:30。從車站走過來的時間,搭上第一班船,時間綽綽有餘。</div><div><br /></div><div>這艘船名就叫シーキャット(See Cat),真是貼切!另一艘停靠在前方,名為美人魚マーメイドⅡ。</div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059330684" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059330684_416961a7b7_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059094441" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059094441_709fa2cc6c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>渡輪內有上下兩艙,上面空間較大,有個餐桌區,就像小時候學校遠足,巴士最後方總是設有一張桌子,圍繞桌子的座位,也是最快被搶走的位子。下面的座艙空間就很小,可以直接席地而坐,也有電視,但要脫鞋。</div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058056572" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058056572_f183a16f5a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059330934" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059330934_9ddd75093e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058056412" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058056412_3d6f133185_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059127698" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059127698_d8888e52f5_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>田代島也有2座乘船碼頭,比較東北邊的是大泊港,可能因為目前沒什麼人在大泊港上下船,就與門協一樣,沒有停靠。</div><div><br /></div><div>約莫45分鐘的航程,來到田代島東南邊的仁斗田港。隔著窗戶玻璃看,一滴滴的水痕,還以為外頭下雨了,還好只是玻璃髒髒的。</div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059094266" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059094266_37ef20be83_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058063622" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058063622_2d3ee81763_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059101236" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059101236_0723ab9c14_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>一下船才發現,這船有許多歐美人士,組團專門來看貓的,在代合所前稍微解說後,就各自去追貓了。</div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059586950" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059586950_3e233544f3_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059337634" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059337634_745f432ab0_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059134598" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059134598_e7ee7d8df1_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br />
<div>渡輪緩緩倒退,離仁斗田港,前往下一站網地島。目光離開渡輪後,才恍然發現,曬在碼頭邊的漁網內,有隻黑貓慵懶地趴著。</div><div><br /></div><div>你是派來迎接下船賓客的嗎?喂!醒醒啊!</div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059101226" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059101226_2c646ec92f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059101211" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059101211_2f7f167a65_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><div><br /></div><div>碼頭T字路的立牌上,直接寫著往右貓咪比較少,往左貓咪比較多。那當然是往左走,趕緊來去尋找島上其他貓咪。</div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059337604" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059337604_ac830de8fe_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058063482" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058063482_79a1610a4c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>往左邊也是仁斗田住戶聚集的方向,果然開始出現許多貓咪,一看到貓就忍不住停下來拍照,往前推進的速度非常緩慢。<br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059101126" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059101126_83c5f87803_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>護欄上的2位模特兒已經就定位了,趕緊按快門。<br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059586790" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059586790_6dfe21491d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>瞇著眼,舔小舌就是可愛!下面的黑貓不一起加入嗎?<br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058063387" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058063387_ae470ee963_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058063382" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058063382_52e5c152e5_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058063372" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058063372_1ba6ee5706_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>等你們怎麼一看見高級鏡頭,就全都往男生那邊跑過去啊!太現實了!<br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059586715" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059586715_8b4e58e3bb_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>貓與小花,一定要來一張的啊!即使你不想看鏡頭,還是要拍!</div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059101006" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059101006_9f0b5ee388_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>別擺一副臭臉嘛,來者是客~<br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058063317" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058063317_09d969a4e2_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>今天是在島上的<a href="http://marinew.com/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">マリンライフ民宿</a>下塌一晚,選這間的原因,一來是「網地島ライン」網站上有資料,再來是民宿官網寫著貓咪會來院子裡溜達,更重要的是,老闆娘會說中文!</div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058063302" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058063302_4a7124fae3_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059337439" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059337439_2cb42041b1_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><div><br /></div><div>當時民宿官網還沒有預約住宿的功能,僅能透過電話訂房,每次打去都是只會說日文的老闆接聽。雖然通話前有先擬好日文草稿,但最難的不是把草稿的句子說出來,而是對方聽完後的回覆,有聽沒有懂,然後卡關....最後只好請JCB白金秘書幫忙訂房。</div><div>(後來入住得知,老闆娘要一邊照顧小孩,一邊要處理民宿事務,忙翻了。)</div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059337414" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059337414_806b1e0fa0_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059331429_dcfb95ea94_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div></div><br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059128468" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059128468_13104b9cde_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div></div></div><div><div><br /></div><div>離下午check in還有一大段時間,背包先借放民宿內,來去找貓囉~</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059337384" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059337384_198e0b0345_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059134233" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059134233_279e588747_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058063162" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058063162_4f6538191d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059134293" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059134293_4d4dbf1247_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058063127" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058063127_a2234dbf0a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059100751" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059100751_375daba28a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>島上有一座平塚八太夫的土藏,八太夫是平塚氏一族代代自稱的名號,是江戶時期仙台藩與水戶藩的御用商人,利用田代島海濱的漁貨,進行海上貿易,北至現在俄羅斯的薩哈林州,南至菲律賓與越南,累積了鉅額的財富,在當時航運界的重要人物,與金澤藩的御用商人錢屋五兵衛,各據東西一方。</div><div><br /></div><div><div>平塚八太夫的宅邸主體在明治末年遭到祝融,只剩下作為倉庫的土藏。但植物都已經爬上屋瓦,看上去結構已經歪斜,總覺得隨時會倒塌,只有家紋最完整。</div></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058063197" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058063197_64cc501f8f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059586530" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059586530_ee0b018353_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div></div></div><div><br /></div><div>島上的住宅都聚集在田代島東側的仁斗田港與大泊港,又以仁斗田港的居民較多;西側有路,但沒有住家,就不走過去了,貓應該也不會傻傻地跑去沒有人煙出沒的地方。<br /><div><br /></div><div>離開仁斗田之前,會經過阿部ツ商店,本來島上是沒有食堂,看網誌記錄都是來這間雜貨店買零食或泡麵填飽肚子,後來島のえき開張營業,才多了一項選擇。不過雜貨店變落寞了,店主老闆娘也跑出來陪遊客逗貓。<br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059586380" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059586380_e6d7842892_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059337179" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059337179_2f3bd74bdd_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>緩緩的上坡路,沒有住家,偶有幾隻小貓,像是路邊的哨兵,監視我們的一舉一動。<br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059134163" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059134163_a6908464fb_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059337124" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059337124_1c877a7a67_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>路中間躺了一隻長毛美貓,搔首弄姿,殊不知牠是詐騙強盜集團的首腦,帶著手下在這條路上行搶,前面陪我們玩,只是要降低我們的戒心。</div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059100576" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059100576_e4899d3444_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059100561" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059100561_29953c32a1_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059100526" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059100526_6a1dd1b49d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>突然後面一陣騷動,一群女生跟著一個穿著古裝的人,嘻嘻哈哈地往我們接近。奇怪!剛剛在船上沒有看到這群人,是從哪裡來的呢?<br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059134073" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059134073_107f30d4ef_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /><div>繼續前進。長毛美貓的眾跟班們,也跟在腳邊,一起散步。<div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059100486" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059100486_9d466a6ae4_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059586150" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059586150_cc79247f4f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059100361" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059100361_d31226b3f4_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>貓走累的就停下來休息,看我們繼續往前走,沒有被誘惑,就繼續跟了上來。</div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059133858" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059133858_7c65f0d472_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058062662" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058062662_2b0acf110c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>緩坡漸平,鞍部上的平緩地是石卷市立田帶小學校與中學校的遺址,活化為「<a href="https://www.facebook.com/pages/%E7%94%B0%E4%BB%A3%E5%B3%B6%E3%81%AB%E3%82%83%E3%82%93%E3%81%93%E5%85%B1%E5%92%8C%E5%9B%BD%EF%BC%88%E5%B3%B6%E3%81%AE%E3%81%88%E3%81%8D%EF%BC%89/329071670977461/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">島のえき</a>」,有提供餐點的咖啡廳,當然也有貓咪相關的紀念品,成了島上的新據點。</div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059586020" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059586020_d29e3b2670_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059585945" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059585945_a4d1ece822_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059336829" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059336829_bcd4d7dcf1_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>剛剛穿著奇特的男子又出現了,仔細一瞧,臉上帶著獨眼眼罩,再加上這身裝扮,那絕對就是雄踞東北的伊達政宗了!</div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059100266" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059100266_339f45836d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>喵星人完全無視大名的存在,大剌剌地從政宗面前晃過。後來到仙台城翻簡介資料才知道,原來這天是<a href="https://datebusyou.jp/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">伊達武將隊</a>的伊達政宗帶著粉絲出遊的日子,特地包船來田代島旅遊,然後再去金華山參拜,團費11500円,挺不錯的。</div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059336744" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059336744_bb96ae3a3f_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><div><div><br /></div><div>昔日校園的廣場成了直升機停機坪,處處可見校園的痕跡,也有許多裝置藝術,最重要的是,很多貓及櫻花樹。</div><div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059133673" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059133673_2ee3535eee_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059133618" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059133618_4dc636d7a1_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div></div></div><div><br /></div></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059336644" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059336644_c5cfa6e4a9_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>伊達政宗一離開,貓咪馬上就來要回牠的位置。<div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059336519" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059336519_0c2cb43caf_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>島のえき是由「田代島にゃんこ共和国」在經營,這是一個社團法人,在311東日本大地震後由石卷市當地志願者與養殖牡蠣的漁師發起的組織,作為重建與復興田代島之用。</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059336054" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059336054_5c61d96895_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059132968" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059132968_32c091d4d1_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059585840" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059585840_bbaf0c58db_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>先到屋內逛逛紀念品,貓咪包裝都很可愛,每樣看了都想買!</div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059133468" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059133468_d8326911b3_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059336454" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059336454_3e1d94e68a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059099951" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059099951_3a7b0fd5d8_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>商品架上也有當地漁貨的醃漬品,當然也要買來嚐嚐!</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058062267" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058062267_128d442929_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>戶外座位區幾乎都被坐滿了,貓咪們也很朋場,會到每一桌巡視一下,到處討摸。<br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059336354" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059336354_7841c1d58f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059585605" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059585605_d1b15f9d75_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>我們拿著零食,到停機坪另一頭的櫻花樹下野餐。<br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058062187" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058062187_5ab463273d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059099831" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059099831_12a39c8d2d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>好奇的黑貓跟了過來,想來加入野餐的行列。<br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059133268" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059133268_fd84ef8953_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059133238" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059133238_e96ca0c07b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059585455" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059585455_e889eeb20c_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>當然不能給你吃啊,來這裡只有看我們吃的份!</div><div><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059247971_b0897130e7_o.jpg" width="100%" /></div><div><br /></div><div>又一隻貓咪好奇地跑了過來,你沒看到前一隻黑貓只有乾瞪眼的份嗎?<br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059336189" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059336189_63cdae9110_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059133123" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059133123_4be2d79478_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059336139" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059336139_8d31f448ef_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>原來你只是來找我們發呆啊~從你的表情得知,你應該是想跟我們說:啊~今天天氣真是舒服呢~<br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059585365" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059585365_1facfb7620_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059483934_a452486201_o.jpg" width="67%" /></div><div><div></div></div><div><br /></div><div>店員說不遠處有座貓咪神社,趕緊來去瞧瞧,順便往大泊港的方向前進。</div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059336109" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059336109_e4f0da8e7f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058061852" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058061852_d97a38e2aa_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058061752" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058061752_6c3c411040_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>「貓神社」供奉的貓大神是美與利大明神。田代島上之所以有那麼多貓,是因為島上早期也在生產蠶繭,為了防止蠶繭被老鼠咬,開始飼養天敵 - 貓咪,來保護蠶繭。島上的漁師也會依據貓咪的動作預測天氣,並相信貓咪會招來大豐收,且預防海上事故,被島民視為豐收之神。</div><div><br /></div><div>相傳,某天,有隻貓咪被一塊用作船錨的岩石擊中,不幸喪命。為了弔念這隻貓咪,於是建了這座神社。</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059335834" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059335834_cb533097f9_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059099471" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059099471_fb9b747752_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>木椅上正襟危坐的黑貓,你是這裡的神官嗎~?<br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059585150" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059585150_3e3b2c3ebe_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>正殿前方擺了許多貓咪的擺飾,大部分都是招財貓。<br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059099406" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059099406_8b4f270ba3_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><div><br /></div><div>往大泊港續行,路邊草堆突然衝出一隻灰貓,一邊喵喵叫,一邊迎面走來。原來要先摸一摸,才願意放我們繼續前進~<br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059132778" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059132778_73063f5a20_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059585015" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059585015_ef536b7d45_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059132683" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059132683_2c10f1abfa_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058061527" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058061527_6286465ccd_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059335679" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059335679_b68604a2e1_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>轉個彎,大泊港出現眼前,海面一片平靜,靜到連貓的蹤影都沒有。<br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059099096" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059099096_b6a1bc35fa_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059584875" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059584875_5ef867123d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059132428" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059132428_5b204a9636_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>港口旁的「大泊発着所」,看上去不太像有在使用,外觀有點像緊急避難所,上面寫著若要搭船,請15分鐘前在裡面等待,難不成裡面有什麼人體感應偵測器嗎!?<br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059099051" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059099051_991c259478_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059335574" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059335574_f3f84402e2_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059335529" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059335529_d9018891da_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><div><br /></div><div>大泊港正前方的丘陵上,有座鹿嶋神社,主祭神是名為武甕槌神的建御雷神。</div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059584745" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059584745_8d488bfa51_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059098906" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059098906_2be3ec3015_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>相傳,每當大泊港有不祥的災禍要發生時,神靈就會發出鹿的鳴叫聲,警示周遭的居民。</div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059335394" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059335394_190cb4ec37_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059132278" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059132278_523d73caaf_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>雖然神社不那麼起眼,該有的雕飾都有,吊鐘的龍形吊柄也很精細。</div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058061172" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058061172_e7f1f4f4fa_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059584615" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059584615_e0c9bf6879_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059335314" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059335314_23e6356ac4_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059098706" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059098706_73751dc74c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div>很怕被蚊子叮,趕緊離開,下坡的階梯更覺得很陡,兩側的扶手歪扭的很隨性,腳下小心翼翼,眼睛卻捨不得離開樹縫間的景色。<br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058061037" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058061037_c7d7da36df_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>下來發現,貓咪聽到我們的聲音,都冒了出來。可是日正當中,貓咪都在陰影下躲太陽。<br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059132208" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059132208_a3d7b82312_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059132133" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059132133_a695f9f823_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059584360" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059584360_bef9289de5_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>還是有願意拍照的貓,頂著烈日,配合演出。你們來堤防上,以大海為背景,來張田代島經典的貓咪微笑照吧~</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058060927" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058060927_1f08d9e7fc_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>等等,你要抬頭挺胸,不要那麼霸氣的把手打開!<br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059584320" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059584320_4bc33633d3_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>下面一位,等等,你們兩位上來耍寶的嗎!?<br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058060872" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058060872_c39308c1e5_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059098451" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059098451_dce32051ef_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>醒醒啊!這種氣溫睡著會被烤乾的!尤其你又是黑貓,都曬到變成咖啡色了!<br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059335064" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059335064_f97b91b3b4_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059098406" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059098406_ce9f111893_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><div><div><br /><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058060762" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058060762_66d20046eb_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div></div></div></div></div></div><div>熱的受不了了!還沒輪到你,就先在電線桿的影子下躲一躲吧!<br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058060782" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058060782_01060d301e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><div><br /></div><div>喂~不要跟著我的影子移動啊!</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059584215" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059584215_5664a4690b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>太熱了!罷工!不拍了!不拍了!!</div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059584170" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059584170_04fdcbca85_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>喂!不要偷吃路邊的小草!<br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058060727" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058060727_90886170bc_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>哈囉~收工了!可以放風了~別傻傻躲在電線桿陰影下一直等!<br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059334914" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059334914_7447e0a564_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059131838" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059131838_40c4b8b235_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>民宅群聚在港口旁的坡地上,十來戶的規模,可提供過夜的民宿,僅有一間はま屋。</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058061002" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058061002_76cf0476a3_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059584070" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059584070_ec40250d72_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059334854" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059334854_cc8da8b031_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br />
<div>本來以為在大泊不會遇到居民,才剛有這念頭,就看到一位歐吉桑在自己家的圍牆上拍照。歐吉桑看到我們,開心地揮手邀我們過去,原來他的庭園內有一群貓咪呢。<div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059131743" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059131743_d45599c844_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059584000" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059584000_56183a762f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>歐吉桑正好要為貓咪放飯,豪邁地抓起整袋飼料,往貓咪的碗中倒入,乾乾嘩啦啦啦如大雨般落下。<br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059334729" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059334729_2f8caf41e7_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>貓咪馬上從四處衝了出來,牠們的碗是剖半的竹子,名符其實的竹筒飯~歐吉桑邀請我們進來庭院,一起共享美好的午餐時光。</div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059334724" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059334724_4d594efea2_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><div><br /></div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059583870" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059583870_13ceaaafbc_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>你們專心吃,不要輪流看我們,我們只有視覺的饗宴,不會跟你們搶。<br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059334654" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059334654_b2d9fc3d9c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059583820" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059583820_cc0c05970a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>花圃內的灰美貓,遠遠觀望著,你怎麼不一起加入搶食的行列呢?</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059098131" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059098131_cdc671d4bc_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>鳥獸散後,灰美貓跑來竹筒旁,歐吉桑又倒了些乾乾,讓牠獨自享用午餐。<br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059583785" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059583785_dd69195db0_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>飯後餘興節目,貓咪自行跳到圍籬上與花花草草擺拍,圍籬成了貓咪的伸展台,只是眼神不太情願就是了。</div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059098031" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059098031_c9856b8cfd_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059334554" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059334554_d1c771d978_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059334509" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059334509_25e3848ed2_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><div><div><br /></div><div>空地上曬著海菜,貓咪們倒是不太感興趣。<br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059334454" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059334454_feb0faa492_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059131393" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059131393_d269271899_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>或許是船班的關係,時間有限,較少人來大泊這一區,大部分就停留在島のえき。</div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059131368" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059131368_0fa7369ce5_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059583560" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059583560_78119e5b80_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058060112" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058060112_3d4c9537cb_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>順著路繞一圈回到貓神社,黑貓還待木椅上,正與大叔在談心,就不打擾了。</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059583465" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059583465_ef21ff34f5_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059097751" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059097751_217ee80f18_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div>被太陽曬的七葷八素,來去島のえき點個什麼東西消暑一下。<br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059334209" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059334209_996f9f7af6_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059334189" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059334189_456b964656_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>島のえき的貓咪都飽餐一頓了,睡的正香。<br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059583375" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059583375_50d686e72a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058059957" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058059957_e25c7b9878_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><div><br /></div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059131123" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059131123_0697d2e040_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>店內有隻虎斑貓,應該是店貓吧,櫃臺就是牠的專屬位置,除了牠,其他貓咪都不能進到店內。</div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058059867" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058059867_0b696926a8_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059097486" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059097486_1e145864d6_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059131033" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059131033_69eb3d3c62_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>店內有咖哩飯、關東煮等等這類種類很常見的餐點,還有糕點類的下午茶,在小島上準備這些食材也不是那麼容易,再加上滿滿貓咪圖案的餐具,很滿足了。</div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059583260" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059583260_4b6e37fc33_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058059832" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058059832_059531e37a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div>店內果然有掛貓咪開口大笑的照片,太經典了。<br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059131028" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059131028_6d44423c30_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><div><br /></div><div>顧櫃臺的店貓睡到翻肚了,就不吵你了,後會有期。</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059583200" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059583200_79055295c4_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>一離開島のえき,長毛美貓就又出現了,還帶著一群小跟班,尾隨在我們身後。<br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058059742" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058059742_ce3e457d43_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059583070" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059583070_26e39c7c25_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059130903" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059130903_1380dfb539_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>本以為牠們乖巧,正蹲下摸一摸,一個冷不防,小跟班縱身躍起,咬破我手上的塑膠袋,再大口咬住我早上買來當行動糧的草莓奶霜軟法。小跟班怎麼也不鬆口,打也不是,甩也不是,就這樣草莓奶霜軟法連同塑膠袋被扯成兩半,想起身搶回來,詐騙強盜集團馬上集體溜走!</div><div>(我不是故意要餵貓的......)</div><div>
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059130873" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059130873_c6aa564463_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059333839" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059333839_17aa61e908_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>回到仁斗田港,還是這裡的貓咪比較乖巧,對我們沒有企圖心。我們一致的結論就是,島のえき附近的貓太壞了,受商業化及人的影響太大,因為我們在那邊也看到貓咪搶遊客擺在桌上的塑膠袋,結果不小心頭被套住,像被鬼追般,驚恐地到處狂奔,攔不下貓,想幫牠取下塑膠袋都無能為力。<br />
<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058059577" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058059577_43ac9ce45b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br />
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059097306" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059097306_c425a80968_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059582960" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059582960_ac6dcb0a5d_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br />回到民宿,辦理check in。就如民宿的名字マリンライフ(Marine Life)一樣,屋內滿滿的航海元素,超多帆船的模型與照片。<br /><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058059552" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058059552_5f2e597a26_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058059217_e4272c95d1_o.jpg" width="100%" /><br /><br /><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059333654_dd288cf68e_o.jpg" width="67%" /><br /><br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059333659" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059333659_aa1b41dda4_o.jpg" width="67%" /><div>
</div><br /><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059580595_0552e5ea44_o.jpg" width="67%" /><br /><br />客房都在2樓,下塌的2間和室都能看到大海,採光很好,心情很放鬆。<br /><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059130663_5fc4813f16_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div></div><br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059333579" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059333579_41ba5750bf_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div></div><br /><div></div><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059130738_e6b5aab557_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div></div><br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059333679" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059333679_7139fdf7a5_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div></div><br />窗戶也面向庭院,已經有貓咪來庭院露台報到了,簡單打理一下行李,就下樓與貓咪打個照面。<br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059097141" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059097141_a25b46dd89_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br />民宿的餐廳,不過用餐區域不在這,因為菜色太多擺不下。<br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059097106" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059097106_cf17f9ea0f_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br /><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059130498_4e5d628114_o.jpg" width="67%" /><br /><br />客廳兼用餐區,還兼作貓咪觀賞區,透過迴廊的落地窗,可以看到許多慵懶的貓咪~<br /><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059333469_2af1a387bb_o.jpg" width="100%" /><br /><br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059130573" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059130573_912b70f1f6_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059582740" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059582740_4e127d1157_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br /><div></div>露台上的貓咪愈來愈多,一直望著屋內,好像在期待些什麼。<br /><div></div><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058059192_16eacfe060_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059582655" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059582655_fb5c2f3ca0_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058059167" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058059167_bb74908425_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br /><div></div>沒多久,民宿老闆娘端上3大碗貓食,碗一著地,貓咪們爭先恐後把頭塞入碗中。<br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059130398" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059130398_869ff0fb5b_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br /><div></div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059582520" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059582520_4efeb6f006_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br /><div></div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059130268" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059130268_1b3a8ea4c6_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br />貓咪吃飯的個性百百種,有吃碗內看碗外的,也有按兵不動等著吃菜尾的,也有每碗都去吃幾口的。<br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059582435" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059582435_b0a1312b93_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059096706" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059096706_d2ba98fefa_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br /><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058058817_b8c98fb508_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div></div><br />等等,你為什麼要用手撈飯出來吃?地板都被你弄得髒髒的!<br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058058802" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058058802_3164b24e74_o.jpg" width="67%" /><div></div><br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059130088" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059130088_cdd3a0429e_o.jpg" width="67%" /><div></div><br />飽食一頓後,貓咪開始洗臉的洗臉,放空的放空,打盹的打盹。<br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059096681" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059096681_dd5519bdbb_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059582385" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059582385_de280868eb_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059582330" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059582330_b0860dbc01_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br />談心的談心,啊!我打擾到你們聊天了嗎?<br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059333104" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059333104_a307dd991d_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br />喂喂喂,吃飽直接在碗前面睡著,會不會血糖太低,睡那麼快!<br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058058707" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058058707_7b28d6b43d_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br />看著貓咪吃飽喝足,倒是有點餓了,但離用餐還有段時間,與老闆娘約定好晚餐時段,先來去「マンガアイランド」晃晃。<br /><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059130288_3152326d14_o.jpg" width="100%" /><br /><br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058058682" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058058682_11510f5f78_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058058647" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058058647_48bd6475c6_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br />一路上都有貓咪設守關口,尤其是屋頂,一定有貓監視著。<br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058058642" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058058642_f77efd45f7_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059332989" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059332989_d540d894cf_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059096371" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059096371_da79663a85_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br />不要以為瞇瞇眼,就以為我沒有發現你在監視我~<br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059582150" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059582150_2c2cc31595_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059332944" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059332944_25a69cf77a_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br />路過一間有木柵門的神社,那就不走上去了~<br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059129828" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059129828_c1f8b48c42_o.jpg" width="67%" /><div>
</div><br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059582040" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059582040_632b4a2b2f_o.jpg" width="67%" /><div>
</div><br />不一會,來到名為「<a href="https://www.city.ishinomaki.lg.jp/cont/10452000b/-kanko/-kankomap/d0040/20130224150619.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">マンガアイランド</a>」的露營地,直接翻譯的話,就是漫畫島。<br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059129758" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059129758_9915681c5d_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
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</div><br />マンガアイランド園區內有許多櫻花樹,能在櫻花樹下露營,一定很浪漫。<br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059096166" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059096166_274f12a89e_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059581935" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059581935_0c0c4ec630_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br />可惜開始規劃行程時,露營區還沒有開放,不然貓咪造型的小屋也很可愛,只是餐點就要自行解決了。<br /><div></div><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059332779_9120b8c55f_o.jpg" width="100%" /><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059332779" target="_blank"><br /></a><div>
</div><br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059096091" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059096091_6f165c6d05_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059581860" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059581860_b4162bb86f_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br /><div></div>露營地在仁斗田港聚落的邊緣,沒想到這裡也有貓咪。マンガアイランド是由石卷圈觀光推進機構的一般社團法人所營運,想要預訂小屋或營地,可以透過「<a href="https://www.umimachi-enpaku.com/list.html?lt=2&va=4" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">海街緣泊</a>」的網站申請租用。</div><div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059581800" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059581800_046c1fda92_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059332679" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059332679_7614bc4eaa_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br />當然要想辦法找個角度,讓貓咪與綻開的櫻花同框。<br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059096011" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059096011_1d01f60660_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059095976" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059095976_c14018160e_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059129558" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059129558_478a532bc1_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br />就你這隻乳牛貓最配合,再來與小屋一起合照吧~<br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059332574" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059332574_619f1bf9dc_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059581650" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059581650_57301e1edc_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
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</div><br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058058122" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058058122_bea0fa36af_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br />如果從進來マンガアイランド的叉路往西續行,就能走到田代島西南邊的三石崎,取名源自海面上的三座礁岩,相傳有11尊金色的觀音像隨著海水漂流至此,被漁師打撈起來,安置在三石崎膜拜。但路程有點遠,天色漸暗,還是順著下坡,往仁斗田地先海岸一帶回民宿。</div><div><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058058137_effd6eceac_o.jpg" width="100%" /><br /><br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058058102" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058058102_bb57b6fa89_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br />本以為這裡比較少遊客出沒,也不見居民在屋外閒晃,就不會再遇到貓了。沒想到貓咪聽到腳步聲響,就從各個角落冒了出來。<br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059332449" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059332449_22e0b2a5d0_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059129393" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059129393_3338ee9815_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br /><div></div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059581515" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059581515_6f3f267443_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br /></div><div>才剛被詐騙強盜集團搶了半條麵包,對這區的貓咪還點戒心。從階梯走下來的貓咪看來也對我們有一定程度的戒心,幾乎都在母雞蹲。</div><div><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059332379_80b694e3c9_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059581465" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059581465_dd950da6a6_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059129288" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059129288_a376f1af6e_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058057952" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058057952_639dca4ec6_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br />喂~你要警戒也認真一點,蹲到一半就舔起毛來~<br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059332284" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059332284_a6460d2c0f_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059332264" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059332264_55ce2a8101_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br />階梯上面沒有路,折回繼續順著下坡走,貓貓們,打擾了~<br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059095626" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059095626_e6fdd78e13_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br /><div></div><div></div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059581280" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059581280_7790d25506_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058057807" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058057807_8b69a0daca_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br /><div></div>從土路接回柏油路,加快腳步回民宿享用晚餐。<br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059095471" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059095471_e47883b54d_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059332109" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059332109_d99e8767a8_o.jpg" width="67%" /><div>
</div><br />半途有座稻荷神社,據說是在安平時期的嘉承元年(西元1106年)創建,最初的原址仁斗田雞濱田代寺西方的山丘上(現在已經找不到雞濱田代寺了),是平塚氏從京都伏見稻荷大社分靈而來,作為仁斗田的鎮守社。但在明治42年(1907年)遭到大夥燒毀,大正4年(1915年)遷建於此。</div><div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058057677" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058057677_d4a9461dfb_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br /><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059580925_27951bf0ef_o.jpg" width="100%" /><br /><br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059332054" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059332054_bdd80e474f_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br />神社的主祭神是宇迦之御魂神(ウカノミタマ),又名倉稻魂命,是掌管稻穀的食物之神。<br /><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059095291_10fc95372e_o.jpg" width="100%" /><br /><br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059095261" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059095261_01e9cf9425_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div></div><br />神社內標準設施的御手洗,都乾了,想要用的話只能自備清水了。<br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059332034" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059332034_47ef444beb_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058057587" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058057587_c23157722a_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br /><div></div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059128923" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059128923_d94c5af9f8_o.jpg" width="67%" /><div>
</div><br />神社牌匾上寫著正一位稻荷神社,相傳是正德元年(1711年)由京都伏見稻荷大社贈與的神位。<br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058057497" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058057497_e70737a637_o.jpg" width="67%" /><div>
</div><br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059581025" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059581025_2e8f446c0d_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059580995" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059580995_f0ed507e1a_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058057357" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058057357_c8111df324_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br /><div></div>特別的是,這座稻荷神社有2座鳥居,通往下面這座鳥居的階梯,已經被雜草淹沒。<br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059331739" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059331739_669dde2783_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059331709" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059331709_bf36866e86_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br /><div></div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059580830" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059580830_c4d013355d_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br />回到仁斗田聚落,民宿ふじや的外牆上,標示著311東日本大地震海嘯襲擊的高度。</div><div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058057202" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058057202_32f8a39d2a_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br />民宿ふじや的後方是田代診療所,島上唯一的診所。<br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058057162" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058057162_98a0c9086f_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br /><div></div>消防團的小屋中,停著一輛小消防車。<br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059094886" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059094886_7c63fbc65f_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br />貓咪又出現了,路口又是三步一崗、五步一哨,就是沒有看到在地居民。<br /><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059094926_114aaa9d41_o.jpg" width="100%" /><br /><br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059128598" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059128598_dd24544913_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br />末班船在下午3點半離開仁斗田港後,貓咪也鳥獸散,各自發呆去了,原本寧靜的小島,還是一樣寧靜。<br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059331499" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059331499_eb29055e14_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059094791" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059094791_cdae58d847_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br />貓咪的蹤影不見,只留下3個大空碗,看來他們很滿意這裡的伙食,接下來輪到我們享用了。<br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059094701" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059094701_69c49e0607_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br /><div></div>晚餐一道道端上來,精緻又美味,最後還端上了一整尾魚,飽的我們都快滿到喉嚨了。飯後與趁著老闆娘照顧小朋友之餘,聊了一會。本以為老闆是島上的漁師,屋內許多船舶的擺飾,還弄出如此好吃的料理,結果我們都猜錯了。</div><div><br /></div><div>老闆娘是上海人,在東京的飯店工作,與在飯店負責料理的老闆相識,結婚後,想到小島上生活,一個機緣下,就頂下了這間マリンライフ民宿。這故事真浪漫,換作是自己,不知道有沒有勇氣拋下既有的生活,展開另一段未知的旅程?</div><div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059580580" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059580580_24d8714376_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059580530" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059580530_3543373dea_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br />回到房間,商討隔日行程,因為對於昨日在松島沒有坐到觀光船,覺得意猶未盡,而且也想再賭一天看看松島城展望台會不會開放(結果根本永久關閉)。於是馬上更動上午行程,刪去花卷的景點,宮澤賢治,有緣再會了!</div><div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059582600" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059582600_fccb201a6e_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br />翌日,貓咪們很準時的出現在露台,與吹著暖爐的我們在落地窗前對望。<br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058064822" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058064822_14fd1706c3_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059338839" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059338839_1a5a00bcbf_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br />一樣是貓先吃,我們先觀賞,畢竟我們的早餐大盤小盤,準備起來比較費工。<br /><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059588135_f9000cc302_o.jpg" width="100%" /><br /><br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058064732" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058064732_9ed7eeaf35_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br />果不其然,與昨晚晚餐一樣豐盛,都覺得是在吃懷石料理了,而且很多到魚,真是太好了!<br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059338774" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059338774_3a5322370c_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br /><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058064607_88a93f5d02_o.jpg" width="100%" /><br /><br /><div></div>欲搭7點55分首班船離去,貓咪吃飽後,慵懶地曬著暖活的太陽,順便夾道送行。<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059588135" target="_blank"><br /></a><div>
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</div><br />是誰挑食,落了魚頭沒吃!<br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059102371" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059102371_bc46dcf38b_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059102316" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059102316_a46ea693ec_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br />漁港早晨忙碌的時段已過,只剩零星的漁船返航,散落港邊的漁網漁具也在曬著太陽。<br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059135513" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059135513_dc8d7cfe14_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058064362" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058064362_dc6131aae4_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br /><div></div>早安,請問待合所開放了嗎,可以讓我進去嗎,外面冷冷的!那邊的黑貓正要享用美味的鮮魚,你要不要去看一下。<br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059102181" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059102181_604dff6984_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058064287" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058064287_17ca612a44_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058064237" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058064237_7f5da0d9e7_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059102051" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059102051_b008ce9cf9_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br />兩隻貓盯著魚,僵持著,我們盯著兩隻貓,期待著。很快就聽到港外傳來的氣笛聲,再見了,田代島的貓咪們。<br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059135383" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059135383_2fbea88640_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059338314" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059338314_b58baa5a15_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br /><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059338489_cf33451c9a_o.jpg" width="100%" /><br /><br />回到石卷中央港,對面的萬畫館掛上昨日沒見到鯉魚旗,鯉魚在粉紅櫻花的背景下飄揚,配上晴朗的藍天,希望好天氣能延續一整天。<br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059587645" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059587645_81a2b08aa1_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br /><div></div><div></div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058064042" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058064042_884efe2d00_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059101751" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059101751_354d264310_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br />仔細一看,原來石卷駅站房的屋頂有著海洋風格的卡通彩繪,走向車站才發現。<br /><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059101811_3db7c37c39_o.jpg" width="100%" /><br /><br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52058063997" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058063997_aaf5461793_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059587335" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059587335_30a8fde0aa_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br /><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52058063917_6a7c95acf3_o.jpg" width="100%" /><br /><br />可惜車班又趕不上石卷駅からくり時計的整點作動,還是看不到底下的機關人偶。<br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059587310" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059587310_ef46b635c9_o.jpg" width="67%" /><div>
</div><br />手中提著田代島貓咪留給我的紀念品,沾了貓咪口水的半條草莓軟法,不知道吃了會不會拉肚子,還是在車站內的賣店搜刮物色其他紀念品好了。</div><div><div></div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059134993" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059134993_a37be6611a_o.jpg" width="100%" /><div>
</div><br /><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52059483904" target="_blank"></a><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52059483904_559a722840_o.jpg" width="67%" /><div>
</div><br />往松島海岸駅的車程45分鐘,趕緊補個眠,繼續下一個行程。<br /><br /><div>2019.04</div><div></div><div><br /></div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/01/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本函館追櫻:五稜郭.弁天台場.函館山.新選組土方歲三</a><br /><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/04/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本盛岡追櫻:道南漁火鐵道.津輕海峽渡輪.石割櫻.盛岡城</a></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/05/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本宮城追櫻:藏王狐狸村.白石藏王駅</a></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/07/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本宮城追櫻:白石城.船岡城址公園.一目千本櫻</a></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/08/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本宮城追櫻:多賀城.松島</a></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/11/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本宮城追櫻:松島觀光船.北上展勝地公園</a></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/12/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本宮城追櫻:仙台夜櫻.夜景.米澤牛.烤牛舌「閣」</a></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2023/05/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本山形追櫻:寶珠山立石寺.山寺駅</a></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2023/07/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本宮城追櫻:仙台城.烤牛舌「伊達の牛たん本舗」</a></div>Laxichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04802970745091107114noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37782309.post-25517062836117803412022-08-01T18:38:00.021+08:002023-07-11T17:05:26.810+08:00日本宮城追櫻:多賀城跡.松島.多聞山<div>離開船岡城後,接上仙台東部道路,接著往仙台市東北邊移動,先去多賀城市的多賀城,收集百名城戳章,再繼續前往松島,見識日本三景的絕美景致,然後就可以回仙台市吃牛舌了~!</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047079804" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047079804_1c74bc6063_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><span><a name='more'></a></span><div><br /></div><div><div><a href="https://www.tagakan.jp/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">多賀城</a>離交流道還蠻近的,離開多賀城IC不到5分鐘的車程就到了,原本以為鄉間小路不好停車,想不到多賀城跡管理事務所前方就有停車場,挺方便的,尤其是要蓋百名城戳章,蓋完就可以離開了(大誤)。</div></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52045785372" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52045785372_b8c1ef305f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><div>戳章就擺在多賀城跡管理事務所的門外,先來蓋章。</div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046879843" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046879843_eb4c2703b3_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div></div><div>話說,先前看資料介紹,戳章會放在多賀城市埋蔵文化財調査センター展示室、JR東北本線國府多賀城駅、JR仙石線多賀城駅等3處,現在只擺在多賀城跡管理事務所。</div><div><br /></div><div>還好有先確認,若照戳章書上的訊息,就白跑一趟了。若跑到國府多賀城駅,至少離多賀城不算遠,要是跑去另外2處,那可就遠了。</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046829271" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046829271_4c025aa953_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047339075" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047339075_1048332428_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>多賀城四周蠻多色彩豔麗的花卉,這裡的櫻花也還沒長出太多的綠葉,完全出乎意料之外,反倒在不經意的地方, 獲得驚喜,比上午跑得幾個點的花況要好許多。</div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047339115" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047339115_a662050174_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br />
<div><br /></div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046879808" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046879808_a9a2da99fa_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br />
<div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046828946" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046828946_beee8313d4_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><div>就在我們盯著花花草草,拿著手機搜尋植物名字時,一位高橋先生走過來找我們聊天,原來他在年輕的時候,來過台灣,在高雄的鋼鐵廠當顧問,後來回到這附近當國小校長,直到退休。</div><div><br /></div><div>看他胸前別著姓名名牌,應該是退休後來當解說員,只可惜我們破破的日文程度,只能理解這麼一點點,就連向我們解說眼前的花草,我們都像鴨子聽雷。我們還是聽的挺開心的,畢竟聽到外國人曾在台灣這異鄉生活的故事,總覺得挺新奇的,感覺彼此間有那麼一些親近。</div></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52045784997" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52045784997_592a075118_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047079479" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047079479_92810b47c0_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div></div><div><div><a href="https://www.tagakan.jp/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">多賀城</a>不是我們常見室町、桃山安土、江戶時代的城郭,而是在更早的奈良時代。那時的陸奧國已經服從奈良平城京的律令制朝廷,範圍約是松島丘陵以南的宮城縣、奧羽山脈以西盆地的山形縣、部分的福島縣與茨城縣。</div><div><br /></div><div>北方蝦夷與陸奧國之間常有衝突發生,蝦夷的反亂凸顯律令制在東北這一塊的支配方式有破綻,因此進一步有了設置城柵官衙的政策。</div></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047079784" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047079784_ff961027c8_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046829231" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046829231_9b3e2d09c4_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046879743" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046879743_73a530b5cd_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div></div><div><div>養老4年(720年),陸奧國按察使遭到蝦夷殺害,朝廷任命多治比縣守為持節征夷將軍,組成遠征軍前往東北鎮壓叛亂,此時則是後來學者推測多賀柵開始建造的時間點。</div><div><br /></div><div>神龜元年(724年)又發生海道(後來的東海道)的蝦夷反亂,陸奥大掾被殺,藤原宇合被任命為持節征夷大將軍,遠征討伐。遠征軍中,還有一位按察使兼副將軍的大野東人,被認為是在這一年冬天完成多賀柵的築城主。</div></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046879718" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046879718_4bf8da520b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52045785222" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52045785222_56ef51b6fe_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div></div><div>戰爭讓陸奧國逐漸向北擴張領土,隨著版圖的擴大,國府從仙台郡山(現今仙台市太白區郡山遺跡)往東北邊遷至多賀柵,也設置了鎮守府,成了東北地區的政治及軍事中心,名為多賀城。此後,奈良時代的日本,以平城京為中心,南有<a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2018/07/day-1-1.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">大宰府</a>,北有多賀城兩大重要據點。</div><div><br /></div><div>大野東人在天平11年(739年)被任命為陸奧國按察使,兼任鎮守府將軍的大養德守。天平13年(741年)因鎮壓藤原廣嗣之亂有功,又聖武天皇遷都至恭仁京,被任命為舊都平城京的留守役,再隔年過世。</div><div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046829116" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046829116_70635c73c5_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a></div><div><br /><div></div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047338905" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_1195_stitch" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047338905_9bf1d69b0f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047338890" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047338890_10cbe91fb1_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div></div></div><div>昭和41年(1966年),多賀城被指定為國家特別史蹟,著手進行挖掘調查。比起大多數的百名城,多賀城已距今相當遙遠,據考證,遺址範圍約有900平方公尺,東邊約1000m、西邊約700m、南邊約880m、北邊約860m。城的四周是泥土固定的築地塀與柵木列圍繞,中央是政廳正殿,三面設有東、西、南門,現場有個政廳復元模型可供想像。</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046829151" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046829151_c6ed3dc392_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52045785197" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52045785197_5dfa12590f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div></div><div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52045785182" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52045785182_14bc9996d1_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><div>如今修復的遺址,大概就是這些平台及基石,其餘只能靠著解說牌的圖示,自行想像。</div></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046879633" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046879633_afc21ebfb2_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046829046" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046829046_69466303d3_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52045785262" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52045785262_2a2dde079e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><div>在南北的中軸線上,有一條通往外郭南門的筆直大道,城外就是南北大路,目前有復元些許路段。至於從城南小學南面斜往陸前山王駅的東西大路,已完全不復見。</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047079674" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047079674_db694698f1_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046829206" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046829206_0a33d07de8_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div></div><div>往下走去有座多賀城碑,說是刻有平城京與多賀城、多賀城與蝦夷國的距離,以及多賀城歷經大野東人建造、藤原朝狩修造的事蹟。多賀城碑位置就在昔日多賀城的外郭南門,再過去就是國府多賀城駅。</div><div><br /></div><div>從國府多賀城駅再往東南方走一些,有個多賀城附寺跡,是與多賀城同時期建造的附屬寺廟,認為與太宰府的觀世音寺及伽藍是同樣的配置。</div><div><br /></div><div>因為一路下坡,回程可就累了,索性就站在政廳南門這裡看看就好。</div><div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046829081" target="_blank"><img alt="" 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<div><br /></div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047079609" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047079609_6f86cff1ba_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br />
<div><br /></div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52045785072" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52045785072_6189e466bf_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>多賀城建造後,可分為四個時期:第一個時期是按察使大野東人入駐的神龜元年(724年);到天平寶字6年(762年)進入第二個時期,前面提到的藤原朝狩,奈良時代的公卿,為陸奧國按察使兼鎮守府將軍,建造雄勝城(現今秋田縣內)與桃生城(現今宮城縣內)後,對多賀城進行修建,多賀城碑也是在這個時期所立。</div><div><br /></div><div>附帶一提,現在所見的多賀城建物配置,是以第二時期的樣貌來復元。與前一期最大的不同,就是政廳前方多了石敷廣場、後方建了後殿與北殿,左右多了東樓、西樓,這時期的多賀城被認為是全盛時期。</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046879573" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046879573_54f96fae2c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52045785017" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52045785017_b869cdb565_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046828971" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046828971_ab00e89e69_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div></div><div>寶龜11年(780年),伊治呰麻呂就任郡司最高地位的大領後,突然發起叛亂,多賀城在這場寶龜之亂(又稱伊治公呰麻呂之亂),府庫物資被叛軍掠奪一空,放火燒城。</div><div><br /></div><div>之後進入第三時期,此時的日本遷都長岡京後,又遷都平安京,來到了平安時代。重建後的多賀城,在貞觀11年(869年)的陸奧國大地震中毀壞,這場地震規模推斷達8.3以上,引發的海嘯席捲城下町,溺死千餘人,稱之為貞觀地震,地震後的復興讓多賀城來到第四時期。</div><div>
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<div><br /></div><div>多賀城在平安後期歷經奧州十二年合戰(前九年之役及後三年之役),局勢動亂,漸漸衰落。</div><div><br /></div><div>到了南北朝時代,延元2年(1337年),後醍醐天皇為首的建武政府,任命北畠顯家為陸奧鎮守將軍。由於多賀城的安定性已盡失,於是北畠顯家將陸奧將軍府遷至伊達郡的靈山城(現今福島縣伊達市),多賀城自此沒落,從歷史的洪流中淡出。</div><div><br /></div><div>離開前,光顧一下市役所旁的公廁,用來區分男女的標示都換上的古代裝束,挺有意思的。</div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52045784967" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52045784967_6f25cb6d37_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br />
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<div>離開多賀城後,繼續往東北邊開去,來到今天最後一站 - 松島。不過來到松島的時間已經接近下午5點,這時間點店家也差不多要打烊了(<a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2017/04/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">在箱根湯本商店街吃閉門羹的往事歷歷在目</a>),即使如此,路上還是非常多的車,停車場也一位難求,不虧是有日本三景美名的松島。</div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046828866" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046828866_e5af66f112_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br />
<div><br /></div><div>來到Google Maps評論上寫著"即便外面塞滿車,仍能找到幾個車位"的寺町駐車場,停好了車,<a href="https://www.zuiganji.or.jp/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">瑞巖寺</a>也要關上門了,無緣參觀伊達政宗的菩提寺。</div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52045784927" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52045784927_146f535fcb_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br />
<div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047079344" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047079344_5fa404fd6b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52045784857" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52045784857_dc284dcf66_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a></div><div><br /><div></div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046879403" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046879403_dd71684714_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div></div></div><div>瑞巖寺的正式名稱是松島青龍山瑞巌圓福禪寺,最早的前身是天長5年(828年)由慈覺大師円仁開山創建的天台宗延福寺。四周可見高聳的杉木與松木,很讓人驚嘆,不知道是否從平安時期就生長於此?</div></div><div>
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<div><br /></div><div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52045784857" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52045784857_dc284dcf66_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a></div><div><br /><div></div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046879403" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046879403_dd71684714_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div></div></div><div>進不去寺內正殿,還是有不少洞窟可看。</div><div><br /></div><div>受付所旁的岩窟,名為法身窟,相傳是鐮倉時代中期,從宋國修行返回的法身禪師,與正在行腳諸國的鐮倉幕府北條時賴相遇的地方,之後北條時賴修建了伽藍,迎來法身禪師,開創臨濟宗円福寺。</div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047078324" target="_blank"><img alt="IMG_1227_stitch" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047078324_d7c5b1a943_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br />
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<div><br /></div><div>往岸邊慢慢晃過去,有座國鐵時代設立的鐵道殉職者弔魂碑,紀念在建造及營運中殉職的員工。</div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047337595" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047337595_4989a8acf0_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046879368" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046879368_609bc4fd42_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>再過去是洞窟遺跡群,岩壁上有著大大小小人工鑿出的洞窟,洞窟的壁面刻出無數的供養塔、五輪塔與戒名。因為在明治時代之前,松島被認為是死者前往極樂淨土及生者為亡者祈求冥福的靈場,自古便有「奧州の高野」的稱呼,並且有把亡者一部份遺骨帶到離岸邊不遠的雄島,將其奉獻給神佛的習俗。</div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046879343" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046879343_c5e2212419_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br />
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<div><br /></div><div>洞窟前方一整排的觀音像,說是西國三十三所的複刻品。西國三十三所是指大阪府、京都府、奈良縣、和歌山縣、兵庫縣、滋賀縣、岐阜縣的33處觀音信仰的靈場。而我一個也沒去過,只去過分靈到立山駅前的「立山参道の石塔並びに石仏群」的<a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2020/01/day-8.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">13號觀音像</a>。</div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047079259" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047079259_e4c7ff6a63_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br />
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<div></div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046828751" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046828751_cc1ce68006_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><br />
<div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52045784797" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52045784797_8c7c0d9bbe_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>洞窟遺跡群的步道接回瑞巖寺總門,也就是參道前的山門。看起來不太起眼,三間一戶的形式,是伊達政宗於慶長9年(1604年)針對瑞巖寺全面整修時所建,直到慶長14年(1609年)現在所見的瑞巖寺才竣工。</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046879238" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046879238_c47ab9cd55_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046879253" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046879253_d653b38f1c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br />
<div><br /></div><div></div></div><div>時間晚了,本來心情就有點鬱悶,沒想到松島城日本三景展望台的鐵閘門也拉上了,本來想登高晀望松島海灣,卻撲空了,更是失落。查了一下Google Maps上的評論,看來已經停業好一陣子了,唉,算了,好在這不是做百名城或續百名城之類的,畢竟這裡仍是座靈場。</div><div><br /></div><div>然而,這座被認為是模擬松島城天守閣的地點,也小有來頭。在天台宗時代,這座小山丘上就建了月見崎坊及汀坊,司掌五大堂的祭祀。延福寺從天台宗改為臨濟宗,禪宗轉換,寺名改為円福寺後,仍有僧人秘密以天台宗的身份,在此控制五大堂。</div><div>
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<div><br /></div><div><div>江戶幕府掌權的寬永年間,伊達政宗全面翻修,改名瑞巖寺,有位僧人在此建了座小庵,命名為天童庵,然後明治維新後被廢止。明治時期,在此建了一座名為松島館的俱樂部,之後搬遷。直到昭和2年(1927年),松島觀光飯店在此落成,飯店建築有現在作為客房之一的一之丸,也就是現在的松島城日本三景展望台、二之丸的本館、三之丸的別館松鶴樓。</div><div><br /></div><div>松島觀光飯店在平成15年(2003年)落幕,一之丸與三之丸保留了下來,夾在中間的本館二之丸成了五大堂前駐車場。</div></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046878973" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046878973_c12aec276a_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046878948" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046878948_ddf3d6e570_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>松島灣觀光船的時間也結束了,表定下午5點結束的五大堂,卻沒有管制,趕緊來去參觀。</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046828726" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046828726_a190feabdd_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046827716" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046827716_d1ea19bd0f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047079169" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047079169_d5ca6881da_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a></div><div><br /></div></div><div>跨過3座小橋,來到第3座小島上的五大堂。第1座的橋面則已經完全鋪滿木板,後2座橋,橋面用縱向的木板架在橫向的木條上,透過木條之間的縫隙,可以直接看見腳下的岩石與海,因為透空的結構而有「透橋(すかし橋)」之名。</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047338475" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047338475_38d905ffca_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046879148" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046879148_5cf67a7851_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046827706" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046827706_f7520ec91d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>據說最初僅有橫向的木條,如此設計,是為了讓信眾在前往五大堂的途中,能提振起精神。這效果真的不錯,輪到我們通過時,還是會聚精會神,畢竟兩邊的扶手有點低矮。</div><div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52045784707" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52045784707_be28cc8f0e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047079129" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047079129_42d655f8f7_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br />
<div><br /></div><div>五大堂最早的歷史,可以追溯到安平時代的公卿兼武官 - 坂上田村麻呂,而他的父親 - 苅田麻呂,也曾前去多賀城赴任陸奧鎮守將軍。</div><div><br /></div><div>坂上田村麻呂從延歷13年(794年)就開始奉命討發蝦夷,延暦20年(801年)被封為征夷大將軍。相傳坂上田村麻呂信奉十一面千手觀世音菩薩,在大同2年(807年)奧州遠征後從東北折返時,為了回報出征前的祈願,在此建立了毘沙門堂。</div><div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047079114" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047079114_8f24cebb64_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047078994" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047078994_ec6400e5d3_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div></div><div><div>慈覺大師円仁在天長5年(828年)的天台宗開山後,在這裡設立佛堂,成為延福寺的境外御堂,且在佛堂安置了櫸木製作的五大明王像。五大明王以大聖不動明王為中心,在東西南北方安置了降三世明王、大威德明王、軍荼利明王、金剛夜叉明王,之後佛堂就被稱為五大堂。</div><div><br /></div><div>現在所見的五大堂,是慶長9年(1604年)伊達政宗整修瑞巖寺時下令重建,請來了紀州(現今和歌山縣)的知名工匠 - 刑部左衛門國次,如今成了東北地區現存最古老的桃山建築之一。</div></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047078234" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047078234_51443dd9cc_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047078999" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047078999_b5c6383c4e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047079009" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047079009_2848782a42_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div></div><div><br /></div></div><div>出自刑部左衛門國次之手的知名建物還有仙台總鎮守的大崎八幡宮、德川家靈廟的日光東照宮、江戶城、上野寬永寺。</div><div><br /></div><div>刑部左衛門國次將佛堂的外觀設計成「方三間」,由四個角落的柱子構成正方形,正方形每一邊的長度為三間、上方為「寶形造」的攢尖頂,屋簷下依序刻有十二生肖的雕像。遠看工整,近看細膩。</div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046879088" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046879088_961ee74778_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br />
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<div><br /></div><div><div>正面的牌匾上寫著「五太堂」,相傳是伊達家的重臣,同時也是瑞巖寺的105世天嶺性空禪師,揮毫時的俏皮筆觸。牌匾下兩扇對開的厨子,每33年才公開一次,比<a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2019/05/day-1-1.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">長野善光寺</a>的7年一次還要久許多。下回再次公開五大明王的御開帳,預計是在2039年8月20日,到時不知道還能不能記得這件事。</div></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52045784627" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52045784627_2e4a280e94_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047338390" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047338390_7079d76a30_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><div><br /></div></div><div>往著松島灣上大小錯落的島嶼,上面佈滿蒼綠的松樹,總覺得沒搭上觀光船,日本三景的松島就要結束了,有點遺憾與空虛。行程還有幾天,晚點回到旅館再來看看,能不能再抽出時間,再來一趟。</div><div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52045784657" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52045784657_54d7a661b1_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div></div><div><br /></div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52045784642" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52045784642_8c0a00d61a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br />
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<div><br /></div></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046828636" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046828636_0cf6879d4b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>想來松島魚市場覓食晚餐,也都打烊了,只好在走回停車場的路上,隨意找間餐廳了,吃點牡蠣與海螺發洩一下。</div><div>
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<div><br /></div><div>短暫停留的松島,雖然有點遺憾,但用海鮮填飽肚子,倒是挺滿足的。回程的路上,不知哪根筋不對勁,突然想看松島日落的景象,就這樣一路開到了松島灣南端的七濱町,來到有松島四大觀之名的多聞山。然後這才又突然想到,松島在東邊,根本看不到日落啊!</div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047338255" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047338255_4394bbe58f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br />
<div><br /></div><div>沿著多聞山短短的步道,中途經過一座深山權現,然後來到最北側的毘沙門堂。從毘沙門堂後方望去,可見地藏島、馬放島、桂島,著名的仁王島也依稀可見,只是天色昏暗,照片怎麼拍都是糊的。</div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046828416" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046828416_1758a65ce5_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br />
<div><br /></div><div>松島的燈火,在馬放島後面遙遠的海岸線上,想看松島日落,連自己都覺得可笑。</div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046828406" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046828406_af15854400_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br />
<div><br /></div><div>地藏島上有座顯眼的白色燈塔,地藏島的地藏像在燈塔左側光禿禿的裸岩上,懶得換長焦鏡頭了。</div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047078924" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047078924_656302dcba_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br />
<div><br /></div><div>回到多聞山停車場,對面塩釜漁港已燈火通明,該趕緊開回仙台還車了,明日還要早起搭車去石巻,來去期待已久的田代島看貓~!</div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046878918" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046878918_980e82d1d6_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br />
<div></div><div></div><div><div><div><br /></div><div>2019.04</div></div></div></div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/01/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本函館追櫻:五稜郭.弁天台場.函館山.新選組土方歲三</a></div><div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/04/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本盛岡追櫻:道南漁火鐵道.津輕海峽渡輪.石割櫻.盛岡城</a></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/05/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本宮城追櫻:藏王狐狸村.白石藏王駅</a></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/07/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本宮城追櫻:白石城.船岡城址公園.一目千本櫻</a></div></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/10/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本宮城追櫻:漫畫小鎮石卷.猫の島田代島住一晚</a></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/11/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本宮城追櫻:松島觀光船.北上展勝地公園</a></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/12/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本宮城追櫻:仙台夜櫻.夜景.米澤牛.烤牛舌「閣」</a></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2023/05/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本山形追櫻:寶珠山立石寺.山寺駅</a></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2023/07/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本宮城追櫻:仙台城.烤牛舌「伊達の牛たん本舗」</a></div>Laxichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04802970745091107114noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37782309.post-1336345038810405612022-07-01T00:09:00.016+08:002023-07-11T17:05:17.718+08:00日本宮城追櫻:白石城.船岡城址公園.一目千本櫻昨天在盛岡城,說到盛岡藩當家的南部氏,因為幕末動盪不安的局勢下,選擇加入奧羽越列藩同盟,站在舊幕府一方,結果失利。向維新政府投降,第15任藩主南部利恭遭到轉封白石城。今天就接著來到白石城,把車停到白石市役所旁的ヨークベニマル白石店超市停車場,昔日圍繞城下的武家屋敷區域之一,漫步走入城內。<br /><div></div>
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<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52045649607" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52045649607_4c0a07b4b8_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><span><a name='more'></a></span><br />白石城是一座梯郭式的平山城,位在白石盆地的丘陵上,盆地夾在奥羽山脈的藏王山與阿武隈高地北端之間。白石川從城下蜿蜒而行,經過大河原町、柴田町,與阿武隈川匯流後,複雜的丘陵地形就被打開,進入平緩的仙台平野。<div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046746183" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046746183_5e194df68b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046945414" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046945414_e9a6cfbe6c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>這裡自古就是陸奥的交通要地,奈良時代五畿七道的東山道、鎌倉時代的奥大道,一直到江戶時期五街道的奥州街道,皆經白石而過。</div><div><br /></div><div>奧州街道更是從城下南北縱斷而過,初期主要作為東北諸藩的大名往江戶參勤交代的交通使用,中後期因為蝦夷的開發,以及防止俄羅斯帝國的侵略,使用上更加頻繁。奥州街道58番目宿場的白石宿,就與城下武家屋敷的東側及北側相鄰,由本町、中町、長町、城北町組成,當時1.4km的路上就有200間左右的宿店。</div><div><div><div></div>
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<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046693931" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046693931_ba58ce6f40_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div>
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<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046746153" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046746153_36aa5deec7_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br />白石城沒有選入百名城之中,而是排名在101至200的續百名城。現在白石城大多著墨在江戶時代的片倉氏,這也是因為江戶時代之前的修築史料已經不太可考。片倉氏作為仙台藩伊達氏的武士一族,從初代當主 - 片倉景綱開始在此發展260餘年,直到第12代當主才移居北海道。</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52045650187" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52045650187_0fcd03a54a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52045648582" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52045648582_5bfbe682ec_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br />我們走進來的位置已經是本丸的外圍,這裡殘存的石垣有兩種不同的工藝,南側是野面積法,用未經加工且大小不一的石塊堆疊,考證推估是豐臣秀吉開始以太閤自居的文祿年間所造;北側工整雕塑的堆疊法,則是江戶時期片倉家為了修復毀壞的石垣所造。</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046693871" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046693871_24afa0f7c3_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046945889" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046945889_1fc0472697_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div>
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<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046945879" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046945879_44c84532f8_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br />白石城,又稱為益岡城或枡岡城,位在白石市益岡町,名稱並非來自地名,而是因為再往回推到更早之前,城郭曲輪都是以土壘的方式構築,僅有本丸用石垣包圍,看上去就像用枡倒扣著,因此被稱為為枡丘(益岡)。</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046746048" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046746048_87edfe9807_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div>
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<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046744293" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046744293_a18773d134_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046693826" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046693826_0c88ebc064_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br />益岡由城郭的名稱,演變為地名,而白石市的白石,是源自一顆"神石白石"。這石頭自古以來就被認為有神靈寄宿而供奉,位置就在武家屋敷的區域內,現今<a href="http://www.shiroishi-umen.com/top.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">奥州白石溫麵協同組合</a>的斜對面。</div><div><br /></div><div>這顆白石是出現於何時,目前學者還沒探究出來,但白石村落最早出現在文獻上的記錄,可以追溯到寬治5年(1087年)的刈田氏。刈田氏是奥州藤原氏的後裔,在奧州合戰輸給鎌倉軍後,第6代當主刈田秀長改姓為白石,以此作為據點,在戰國時代依附在伊達氏下。</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046945849" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046945849_879256f099_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>入城的門票是在販賣機購買,有<a href="http://www.shiro-f.jp/shiroishijo/index.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">白石城、歷史探訪博物館的3D劇場、武家屋敷</a>的個別門票,也有三館一起的共通券,可惜追櫻時間有限,逛逛白石城就要離去。<br /><div></div>
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<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52045650122" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52045650122_134c20bcfc_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047204275" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047204275_4420f342e6_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br />走入本丸的大手一ノ御門,穿過虎口及大手二ノ御門,昔日的御殿已是一整片的廣場。然而,今日看到的白石城建物,都是平成時期所重建。</div><div><br /></div><div>其實白石城的重建沒有那麼順利,復元的議題在白石市議會與地方都有在呼籲,但執行上遇到許多阻礙。直到昭和62年(1987年),NHK大河劇的《獨眼龍政宗》開播,才讓復元議題添增動力,隔年成為市政政策,在平成4年(1992年)開始修復,平成7年(1995年)完成。</div><div><br /></div><div>復元主要依據片倉家留下的「自石城絵図」,因為在此之前的資料並不完整,復元部分僅有本丸的三階櫓、大手一ノ御門、大手二ノ御門、土塀。</div><div><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046746013" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046746013_f9fcdf8287_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046945804" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046945804_9192e0cf5b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><br /></div><div>白石城在白石氏的治理下,一直到了天正14年(1586年),由於伊達政宗無視豐臣秀吉的停戰命令,進一步擴張領地,攻下會津的蘆名氏與須賀川的二階堂氏,因此豐臣秀吉沒收伊達政宗的會津領地作為懲罰。而當時白石氏的第20代當主 - 白石宗實,也從白石轉封鹽松一帶的宮森城。</div><div><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047202615" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047202615_2f3b3037a3_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046745943" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046745943_0847e44df7_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br />白石宗實轉封之後,白石城暫由伊達政宗的另一個家臣 - 屋代景賴取而代之。豐臣秀吉完成天下一統的隔年,天正19年(1591年),伊達政宗協助蒲生氏鄉鎮壓葛西大崎一揆,卻被懷疑與一揆有內通,煽動一揆發動的叛亂。伊達政宗上京解釋,雖獲得認同,仍被減封岩出山城,屋代景賴則改任名取郡北目城城主,並將蘆名氏的會津領地,交給完成奧州仕置且<a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/04/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">協助南部氏平定九戶政實之亂</a>的蒲生氏鄉,白石成了蒲生氏的領地之一。</div><div><br /></div><div>蒲生氏鄉成了津川城的城主,任命蒲生郷成為白石城的城代。據說白石城前身的益岡城,就在此時所建,城郭的規模擴大,整頓城下町,為江戶時代的白石城打下基礎。</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046945439" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046945439_05498a4385_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047204215" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047204215_231b5537fb_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>蒲生氏鄉死後,由13歲的兒子蒲生秀行繼任家督,但因為太過年輕,爆發家內對立的蒲生騒動,豐臣秀吉派任前田利家調停,於是蒲生秀行減封且移至宇都宮,上杉景勝移封會津,白石益岡城成為上杉家領地。</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046745918" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046745918_e15ff99a52_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52045650007" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52045650007_212cf4f177_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br />三階櫓旁邊的鐘堂,每年7月清理土堤與堀的時候會敲響裡面的鐘,平日則是禁止入內。裡面的梵鐘為復刻,原本的梵鐘是文正元年(1466年)由伊達氏第11代當主 - 伊達持宗所鑄造,贈送給有「伊達五山」之名的東昌寺。東昌寺在由第4代的伊達政依所建造,位在伊達郡(現今福島線北部),慶長年間移至仙台。</div><div><br /></div><div>梵鐘在某個時期被贈與給白石城使用,後來因為出現裂痕,第3當主代 - 片倉景長找來仙台的鑄物師再造。明治時期的廢城令頒佈後,為了保留這梵鐘,福島縣伊達郡的傳來寺將其買走,並在後來躲過了二戰的金屬徵收,一直保留至今。</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046692191" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046692191_bd6c7a67ce_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /><div></div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046693721" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046693721_98482a888a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>走入復元的三階櫓,3重3階,也是白石城的天守閣。入口處是屋根付廊下的階梯,階梯下面這端昔日是與本丸御殿相連,昔日的御殿成了廣場,種滿了櫻花樹。話說櫻花樹都長出了綠葉,殘念。</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046745988" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046745988_0188b5c36d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046945734" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046945734_3431cef94a_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52045649987" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52045649987_9415ffd609_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br />豐臣政權下的上杉景勝,石高120萬石,白石在上杉氏的支配下,由甘粕景繼任命城代,對白石城進行了翻修。考古學家同樣也沒有發現上杉時代的城郭繪圖,同樣無法詳細考證。</div><div><br /></div><div>豐臣秀吉病倒後,德川家康與石田三成對立,上杉景勝協助石田三成備戰。於是德川家康命令伊達政宗討伐上杉景勝,爆發會津征伐,成了關原之戰的序幕。當時的伊達政宗從京都伏見返回後,奉命從信夫口進攻,信夫口需由刈田郡進入,而控制刈田郡的據點是白石城,於是白石城之戰爆發,再次成為伊達政宗的領地。</div><div><div></div>
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<div></div>進入1階之前,建物與外壁之間有段L型的武者走り,讓全副武裝的武士在此奔走。不過,讓敵方打進本丸內,這座城通常也沒救了,頂多為城主爭取切腹或密道逃亡的時間。<br /><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52045649972" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52045649972_8951c97888_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046693411" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046693411_6ba17c6d03_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><br /><br />慶長7年(1602年),伊達家的第一重臣 - 片倉景綱受領白石城,成了仙台藩南邊的要衝據點。由於片倉景綱以無私的精神幫助伊達政宗,在德川家康眼中是名有才能的武將,慶長20年(1615年)幕府頒佈一國一城令下,除了部分大藩外,支城必須全部破壞,仙台藩除了仙台城,片倉家破例保有居城(另一方面也是仙台藩領地遼闊,以拔掉白石城會有破口為藉口。),片倉氏得以延續發展10代,直到約260年後的幕末。</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046744248" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046744248_54e9b3891c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52045649722" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52045649722_d58117e979_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>在《しろいし郷土の夜話》提到一個鄉野傳奇,片倉景綱成了城主後,開始著手修繕城郭,但是每到夜裡,就會出現鬼火,或是聽到陌生女子笑聲的奇異現象。某天,一位城內工作的老婦人被狐狸附身,說道,「上杉在的時候,狐狸是被重視珍惜的,如果現在的城主有所改變的話,就不好處理了。如果也一樣重視珍惜的話,領地內就會安泰。」。於是,片倉景綱在能夠俯瞰白石城的高處,興建神社安撫狐狸。直到今日,白石市福岡藏本一帶仍保留著像是「狐壇」、「狐峰」等與狐狸相關的地名。</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046693656" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046693656_88630afefe_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047204110" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047204110_b62b9bdc3a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><div></div>
<div></div>1階的中央展示著伊達政宗、片倉景綱、真田幸村(真田信繁)的鎧甲,也有陣羽織試穿體驗。</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047203900" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047203900_5cb93cf3d2_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /></div><div><div></div>
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<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046945684" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046945684_859b2922e4_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52053964288/in/dateposted-public/" title="201904花喵_190530_0090"><img alt="201904花喵_190530_0090" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52053964288_659c723328_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a></div><div><br />一旁立著的黑色五芒星旗幟,是奧羽越列藩同盟旗。印有黑色釣鐘的旗幟,則是片倉景綱的馬印圖案,名為白地黑釣鐘旗,由同父異母的姐姐 - 片倉喜多所設計。白石城的市章,就是從這白地黑釣鐘旗演變而來。</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046945714" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046945714_22b82e991a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br />片倉氏源自信濃國伊奈的祖先是侍奉伊達氏的武士,直到片倉景綱才開始活躍,輔佐伊達政宗,教導劍術,且在人取橋之戰、郡山合戰、摺上原之戰、小田原征伐、文祿慶長之役、關原之戰等戰役中,數度化解伊達家的危機,與伊達成實、茂庭綱元,一同譽為伊達三傑。</div><div><br /></div><div>片倉景綱成為白石城城主之後,成了片倉氏初代當主,效仿母親家族一位勇武雙全的武士 - 飯田小十郎,別名小十郎。從此之後,小十郎這個名字,便成了片倉氏當主世襲的名字。</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046745793" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046745793_18d9164e11_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046745808" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046745808_7d64f6b04d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div>二代目小十郎是片倉重長,初陣便是關原之戰的白石城之戰,與父親片倉景綱一同為伊達家奪回白石城。慶長7年(1602年),片倉景綱成為城主,石高1萬3千石。隔年,片倉重長先移入白石城,著手城下町的整備,再隔年,片倉景綱才從原本療養的亘理神宮寺村,移居白石城。</div><div><br /></div><div>大坂之役爆發後,父親已經臥病無法出征,由片倉重長代為參戰,隨主君伊達政宗出陣。在夏之陣的道明寺之戰,率鐵砲隊大破黑田家的後藤基次,名聲大噪,有了鬼之小十郎之稱。大坂之役結束後的年底,元和元年(1615年),片倉景綱病逝,片倉重長繼任家督。</div><div></div>
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<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047204040" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047204040_9e814bf98c_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><br /><br />話說,這裡為什麼也展示真田幸村的鎧甲呢?不論是關原之戰加入了西軍的父親真田昌幸,或是大坂之役站在豐臣政權一方的真田幸村,怎麼看真田家都是站在伊達家及片倉家的對立面,究竟真田幸村與白石城到底有著什麼連結?</div><div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046693621" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046693621_8e52be3719_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><br /><br />道明寺之戰,除了後藤基次之外,參戰的豐臣軍還有真田幸村與薄田兼相。後藤基次與薄田兼相陸續陣亡,殘餘部隊由真田隊收編後,對上德川軍的片倉隊。兩軍交鋒一陣子後,僵持不下,豐臣軍決定退回大坂城,真田隊正打算犧牲為撤退人馬殿後時,德川軍在伊達政宗的堅持下,沒有追擊撤退的豐臣軍。</div><div><br /></div><div>這一晚,真田幸村寫了封信給片倉重長。深夜,兩頂轎子悄悄來到片倉重長的陣屋,轎中各坐了一位小女孩,她們手中握著短刀防身,絕口不回答問題。後來的人才得知,一位是真田幸村的三女 - 阿梅,另一位是影武者穴山小助的女兒,真田幸村為了保全阿梅的性命,將女兒託付給片倉重長。</div><div><br /></div><div>隔日,<a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2020/09/day-12rapid.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">真田幸村在天王寺之役陣亡</a>。後來,真田幸村的六女與七女,都跟隨姐姐阿梅移居白石城;次男也被片倉重長收留,改名片倉守信,躲避幕府追殺。阿梅則在片倉重長的正室過世後,成為繼室。</div><div><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046944319" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046944319_0b11670996_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br />2階沒有特別的展示,卻能夠看見三階櫓的復元採用大量的木材,這也是當初遇到的阻礙之一,因為木造建築受限於建築法規,高度不得超過13m。後來,破例取得建設大臣特别認定,才免於此項限制。</div><div><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047204025" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047204025_9c7d16963f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047204000" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047204000_1719c97ed4_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br />三階櫓的復元,在木柱的部分採用吉野檜木,結構之外的裝飾木材用了青森羅漢柏、山陰地區的松丸太及赤杉,是二戰之後最大的木造天守復元。<br /><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046745738" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046745738_eb85bc230b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046693546" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046693546_087e563172_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /></div><div>進入江戶幕府的時代後,天守的存在變得相當敏感,尤其是頒佈一國一城令後,那些例外保留下來的城郭。為了避免幕府猜疑,有些以多重櫓代替天守,有些則把天守改稱為櫓,而白石城為後者,將天守稱為大櫓,在片倉氏支配的期間,更將兩階櫓改為三階櫓。</div><div><div></div>
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<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046945619" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046945619_b9bfe5d36d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52045649837" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52045649837_50f5cca155_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046745693" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046745693_4bebb29b9f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br />白石城所在的丘陵高度只有76m,與市區的高度差雖然僅有20m,再加上天守下方的石垣9.3m及三階櫓16.72m,視野倒是相當不錯。</div><div><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047203955" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047203955_6b0f24ec5a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046693501" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046693501_904f53e634_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br />文政2年(1819年),片倉家傳到第11代當主 - 片倉宗景,白石城在大火中燒毀,大櫓也付之一炬。隔年,獲得幕府的重建許可,歷經12年才完工。</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52045649792" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52045649792_d8d18b6345_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046693486" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046693486_0c201db2d9_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div>
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<div></div>天守閣的最上層被選為「<a href="https://www.pref.miyagi.jp/soshiki/oksgsin-e/36kei-top.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">みやぎ蔵王三十六景</a>」之一,遠方雪白的山頭,便是此行無緣的藏王連峰。<br /><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046745643" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046745643_2ec76be9eb_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52045649782" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52045649782_4a70499361_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /><div></div>
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<div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div>重建後的白石城,配置三之丸在本丸東側,現在成為市役所的所在地。二之丸在本丸西側,另有西曲輪、沼之丸、中之丸、巽曲輪、帶曲輪、厩曲輪,從二之丸與本丸的西側圍繞到南側,如今已規劃成益岡公園。</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046745548" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046745548_b13bf609fa_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046745933" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046745933_7374aa48de_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046693366" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046693366_9e2db580a6_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br />幕末,戊辰戰爭爆發,奧羽諸藩在白石城召開白石列藩會議,簽訂白石盟約書,奧羽越列藩同盟行形成。只是奧羽越列藩同盟仍不敵新政府軍,4個月後瓦解,仙台藩在戰後遭到減封,白石從仙台藩內畫出,將<a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/04/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">盛岡藩的南部利恭減封,並移封至白石藩</a>。</div><div><br /></div><div>當時人在東京的南部利恭拒絕移居白石,向明治政府請願,獲得允許回歸舊領盛岡,成為盛岡藩知事。白石城在磐城按察使府設置後,坊城俊章入城,但按察使府沒什麼實際功能,很快就被廢止了。</div><div><div></div>
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<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046745563" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046745563_7d0348c007_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52045649677" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52045649677_85f03f4037_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br />失去白石的第12代當主 - 片倉邦憲,向按察使府提出請願書,舉家前去蝦夷地開拓,移居北海道胆振國幌別郡(現今的登別市),片倉家一部份舊臣則移居石狩國札幌郡札幌本府東郊的白石村(現今的札幌市白石區)。</div><div><br /></div><div>白石城在明治政府接管後,輾轉於兵部省、陸軍省、大藏省。最後,在廢城令頒佈後,於明治7年(1874年)拆毀。</div><div><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046745603" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046745603_c807550a91_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52045649702" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52045649702_9847677c2d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>明治31年(1898年),白石家在北海道的開墾功績被認可,第14代當主 - 片倉景光被授予華族男爵的地位,於明治44年(1911年)回到宮城縣白石町。</div><div><br /></div><div>片倉景光回到白石的同年過世,由女婿片倉健吉繼任家督。雖然華族制度在二戰後廢除了,片倉健吉倒是就任了仙台青葉神社的宮司。</div><div><br /></div><div>有意思的是,青葉神社主祭神為武振彦命,也就是伊達政宗的神號,讓片倉家成為世世代代侍奉伊達政宗的神職。就像廣場中央這座片倉小十郎景綱公頌德碑一樣,長長久久地矗立在白石城之中。</div><div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046944289" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046944289_a217e2de7d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046693401" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046693401_8c57df992b_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a></div><br /><div></div>
<div></div>回到ヨークベニマル白石店超市,午餐就在超市內買幾個便當,直接在用餐區解決。<br /><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52045649577" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52045649577_160521c416_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div>
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<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52045649547" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52045649547_4b8885110c_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046945369" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046945369_287e01791d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br />下一站,來到船岡城址公園。因為已過賞櫻最熱門的日期,沒有蜂擁的人潮,上下兩層停車場都還有很多車位。我們選了下面しばたの郷土館附近的停車位置,慢慢地晃上去。<br /><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046945219" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046945219_6704256db9_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52045649342" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52045649342_d57e759e9d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div>在幕府下達一國一城令後,伊達氏將仙台藩支配下的城郭,分成了「城」、「要害」、「所」、「在所」,稱為伊達48館。</div><div><br /></div><div>「城」有仙台城、白石城,以及伊達政宗晚年隱居的若林城,是幕府正式承認的3座。「要害」的規模與功能實質上與城相當,基本上就是原封不動,也具有城下町,有伊達21要害之稱,船岡城就是其中之一。「所」是城郭破壞後,在二之丸周圍建造小規模的藩士居城,「在所」則是平地上新建的館。</div><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046693016" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046693016_8fe02a1b6b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br />船岡城是一座從鎌倉時代就存在的山城,但是在江戶時代之前的資料不太多。在《吾妻鏡》曾提及,這裡是陸奧國柴田郡豪族的領土,氏族中的芝田次郎以此為居城。在正治2年(1200年)因為沒有理會鎌倉幕府的號召,源賴家命令家臣 - 宮城四郎家業討伐,芝田館被攻陷,芝田次郎逃往出羽。</div><div><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046945164" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046945164_8f57c6c67c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046692981" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046692981_925535d339_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /></div><div>奧國柴田郡的豪族後來改為橘姓及藤原姓的柴田氏,又從藤原分成柴田四保氏,在戰國時代成了伊達稙宗家臣 - 四保定朝的的居城,將其重建,稱為四保城。其子 - 四保宗義跟隨伊達政宗上洛,謁見豐臣秀吉時,豐臣秀吉下令要他改回原姓柴田。</div><div><br /></div><div>到了文祿2年(1593年),伊達政宗將柴田宗義從柴田郡船岡邑四保城,轉封到仙台城北邊的志田郡桑折邑(現今的大崎市三本木),將北目城的屋代景賴調來此處。</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046692966" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046692966_22f50185f2_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52045649312" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52045649312_eff77bcabe_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br />一般認為,船岡城的雛形是在四保定朝的時候重新建造而成。不過,現在什麼也沒有保留下來,僅有山頂的本丸、本丸南側的二之丸、東北側的三之丸。至於三之丸廣場,平時好像沒有用作其他用途,大概就是秋季時,舉辦宮城大菊花展,作為菊花栽培家展示得意之作的會場。<br /><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046945129" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046945129_2dabd845c0_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br />廣場上立著兩座紀念碑,忠魂碑紀念明治27年(1894年)在日清戰爭(甲午戰爭)及明治37年(1904年)日露戰爭(日俄戰爭)中,死去的船岡町市民;白色的和平塔是紀念在二戰中,戰死或病逝的市民。<br /><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047203435" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047203435_2982f14b0d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046945099" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046945099_e808b78512_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br />快速登頂的纜車站,就位在上層停車廣場旁邊。據說前一兩週櫻花大爆發的時期,排隊排到天荒地老,相較之下,今天冷清許多,就連售票阿姨遠遠看到我們,就揮手召喚我們過去掏出500円,然後再話家常幾句。</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047202840" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047202840_da74d6fc67_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047202515" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047202515_86a2e2661d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52045649257" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52045649257_fb313bdfa3_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br />纜車的正式名稱為「<a href="https://www.skbk.or.jp/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">柴田町船岡城址公園スロープカー</a>」,這裡是山腹駅,上面是山頂駅,全程單線運行,全長305m,爬升70m。<br /><div></div>
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<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046745068" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046745068_739d251aab_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52045649247" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52045649247_56c06e9330_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046692896" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046692896_125fa20ea6_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br />纜車往櫻花樹叢鑽去,不過綠葉也冒出許多,沒那麼紅粉,反倒有點像是入秋轉紅的景象。<br /><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046745048" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046745048_5341df4c8b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046692871" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046692871_3e833065cd_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52045649162" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52045649162_40a11ff081_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a></div><div><br />船岡市街漸漸從樹梢冒出,白石川劃過船岡盆地,從昔日船岡城下町北側蜿蜒流過,與阿武隈川匯流。</div><div><div></div>
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<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046945004" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046945004_4a12faa2af_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /></div><div><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047203305" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047203305_96f01707a8_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br />恰好一輛貨列行駛而過,JR東北本線離開在白石駅後,也沿著白石川而行,經過東白石駅、北白川駅、大河原駅、船岡駅,在槻木駅與阿武隈急行線匯合,往北進入仙台平原。<br /><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046692096" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046692096_db1fcbcf73_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div>
<div></div>雖然屋代景賴被任命於此,但時值豐臣秀吉出征朝鮮,伊達政宗率兵前往肥前國名護屋(現今佐賀縣唐津市)作為預備隊,屋代景賴留守伊達政宗的岩出山城。然而,文祿4年(1595年)伊達政宗獲得批准回到日本,反倒進入北目城,直到慶長6年(1601年)才將居城轉移至剛竣工的仙台城,代景賴才結束留守任務。</div><div><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046944939" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046944939_a8a91cbaab_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div>
<div></div>不到4分鐘的時間,纜車就從山腹到達山頂。太快了,快門才按沒幾下,不夠時間沉浸在美景中。<br /><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046692816" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046692816_cc486c3066_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52045649132" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52045649132_fc9acea8f8_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br />山頂駅是座架高於步道旁的平台,看起來相當簡易。雖然纜車外觀與先前搭的<a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2019/12/day-6-2.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">黑部登山纜車(黒部ケーブルカー)</a>及<a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2020/01/day-8.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">立山登山纜車(立山ケーブルカー)</a>很相似,利用軌道斜度配置上下高低差的車廂,不過スロープカー(Slope Car)的定位是斜行電梯,而非利用纜索連結上下行車輛的鐵道纜車,前者是上行後才下行,後者是一上一下互相平衡。</div><div><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046692786" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046692786_22aaf1b714_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br />屋代景賴之後,原田宗資在大坂夏之陣取得許多軍功,慶長20年(1615年)成為船岡城城主,娶了伊達政宗的女兒 - 慶月院(津多)為妻,死後由5歲的原田宗輔繼任家督。</div><div><br /></div><div>到了萬治3年(1660年),伊達氏第17代 - 伊達政宗創建了仙台藩後,傳到了第3代 - 伊達綱宗。卻因沉溺於酒色,不務藩政,叔父奧陸一關藩藩主 - 伊達宗勝,也就是伊達政宗的十男,出來干政,家臣團對立,於是伊達綱宗以不適任之名,強制隱居,稱之為綱宗隱居事件。</div><div><br /></div><div>從綱宗隱居事件作為開端,第4代藩主伊達綱村僅2歲,於是讓仙台藩內部歷經40餘年紛亂的伊達騷動爆發,也稱為寬文事件。伊達騷動也與黑田騷動、加賀或仙石騷動,並稱為江戶前期的三大家族騷動。</div><div><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046744913" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046744913_57310bfc26_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046692766" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046692766_242dbc8293_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br />伊達騷動中分為伊達宗勝派,以及伊達宗重為首的反伊達宗勝派。站在伊達宗勝之一方的原田宗輔,在寬文11年(1671年)幕府為了評定騷動,被召喚到幕府大老 - 酒井忠清的宅邸,卻斬殺了伊達宗重,與對立的柴田朝意互相砍殺,負傷而亡。</div><div><br /></div><div>此事件後,伊達宗勝的一關藩被改易,全族被判終身流放。原田家的所有男子,全部面臨切腹斬首的死罪,女子則受到流放的嚴厲懲處,原田一族就此斷絕。</div><div><br /></div><div>山頂上就設有原田甲斐宗輔供養塔,甲斐是稱呼原田宗資的仮名,於是就這麼留用到其子身上。</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046744873" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046744873_db79363d83_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047203145" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047203145_86daea61f6_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046692711" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046692711_92b2a266b1_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>據說,原田宗輔的首級被秘密埋在柴田町船岡的東陽寺,後來寺院遷移被挖了出來,隨著東陽寺移築到登米市後,又再次埋葬於寺內。</div><div><div></div>
<div></div><br />另一座供養塔是紀念柴田朝意,他見原田宗輔斬殺伊達宗重,馬上拔刀反擊,在混亂中受到致命傷,來不及醫治,重傷死亡。天和元年(1681年),柴田朝意與正室生的的兒子 - 柴田宗意,從米谷移封船岡,成為柴田氏的居城。</div><div><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046692686" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046692686_3f77d6007c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047202970" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047202970_7651dc5346_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br />NHK大河劇第8部翻拍了山本周五郎的歷史小說《最後的樅木(樅ノ木は残った)》,以伊達騷動為題材,劇中詮釋原田宗輔的行動都是以藩為首,反轉原田宗輔反派的形象。本來有點好奇,不過這麼舊的大河劇,已經很難找到影片來觀看了,1970年代的拍攝手法也不一定合現代的胃口,還是算了。</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046692571" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046692571_626b29ec0c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046944579" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046944579_210876773c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br />伊達騷動之後,幕府下令拆毀船岡城的所有建築物,並將原本建物下方的土挖掉一公尺深。柴田氏入封被破壞的船岡城後,城郭機能近乎喪失,城主的居館及政廳便遷至三之丸。</div><div><br /></div><div>到了明治維新時期,如前面所提,白石藩從仙台藩中畫出,盛岡藩第15任當主 - 南部利恭轉封白石城。但船岡城就沒有那麼好運了,沒像白石城撐到廢城令頒佈,南部利恭拒絕移居白石城,回到了盛岡的隔年,明治2年(1869年),大火燒毀了船岡城的建築,宣布廢城。</div><div><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52045648997" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52045648997_7f0f83ed62_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046744628" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046744628_38a183c5f3_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br />船岡城歷經不同姓氏的城主,有了芝田城、四保館、四保城、柴田城、舟岡要害等名稱,不變的是,這座山丘經過歲月更迭,依然存在於此。</div><div><br /></div><div>如今,山頂有了一尊非常顯眼的全白觀音像。這是昭和50年(1975年),由柴田町船岡當地出生的野口徳三郎,為已故的妻子冥福,並為世界和平祈願,以自己的私人財產,在本丸打造這尊24m高的船岡平和觀音。</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047202920" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047202920_07b800485f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><div></div><div></div><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046944784" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046944784_903028ae98_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><br /><br />櫻花瓣在觀音像的四周飛舞,真的好美,一股莊嚴感油然而生,心感到莫名的祥和。據說,最早可以走入觀音像內部,但311東日本大震災後,就禁止入內。<br /><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046692496" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046692496_b76254cf2a_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52045648952" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52045648952_970842b448_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>野口徳三郎的銅像就矗立在觀音像旁,頭上的帽子、脖子的領巾,應該是後人所加,讓銅像不那麼死板板,變的親切許多。</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046944684" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046944684_25dd83cac4_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>船岡城所在的四保山,高度136m,比白石城略高,往東面柴田町望去,船岡盆地一整個色彩繽紛,白石川堤防上一整排的櫻花樹,因此用一目千本櫻來描述從山頂望去的景色。</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046744833" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046744833_9d1f5a6b63_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046692661" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046692661_cca2f2c9e1_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div><div></div>從白石連接過來的奧州街道,走在白石川的對岸(左岸)。過去的白石川並非如此筆直,而是以更大的角度向北轉入西船迫,如今從Google Maps衛星地圖上仍能看見舊河跡。</div><div><br /></div><div>舊河道在船迫藥師堂轉向,從荒廢的船迫阿彌陀堂附近,到本船迫コミュニティー消防センター(本船迫社區消防中心),這條街道就是奥州街道62番目的船迫宿。</div><div><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046944134" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046944134_17c9808ecf_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046692606" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046692606_def57893be_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div>
<div></div>往西晀望,大河原町的地勢更寬闊些,遠方依舊是雪白的藏王連峰,也被選為「<a href="https://www.pref.miyagi.jp/soshiki/oksgsin-e/36kei-top.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">みやぎ蔵王三十六景</a>」。</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52045648912" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52045648912_42f85ee931_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52045648902" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52045648902_f2cf0fdf7b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046744673" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046744673_901b23ee9c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047202950" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047202950_bf7b72809f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div>
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<div></div>繞了一圈,回到山頂駅,搭車下山。可惜,船岡城址公園的櫻花也都長出綠葉枝芽,但風一吹,櫻花瓣優雅的在空中飄逸,或許還不到櫻吹雪的程度,但那片刻已在腦中留下永恆的映象。</div><div><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047202880" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047202880_eb61a89e4f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div>
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<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046692386" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046692386_24eaff3dd6_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047202485" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047202485_d3973055ab_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br />上山時沒留意,原來山腹駅的停車場旁邊,還有盛開的櫻花樹,內心突然冒出"啊!終於遇到了!"的聲音~</div><div><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046945079" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046945079_649ceb0e71_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52045648677" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52045648677_70c7844ecc_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047202830" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047202830_eea42f8132_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div>
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<div></div>櫻花枝垂都快碰到地面了,枝葉隨著微風擺盪,嬌嫩地讓人不捨觸碰。<br /><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046692361" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046692361_816fcc299b_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><br /><div></div>
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<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046944499" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046944499_df38675974_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><br /><br /><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52045648707" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52045648707_8ffbc1214c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br />接著,開車來到白石川堤防,停在柴田大橋下的停車區,來走一段一目千本櫻。</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046944419" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046944419_3db5e425b5_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52045648307" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52045648307_1ec493fc8e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div>
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<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046692311" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046692311_f21c960404_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br />白石川是條容易洪水氾濫的河川,大正6年(1917年)開始進行治水工事,整理河川流路,將河道截彎取直,建構堤防。整治工程在大正12年(1923年)完成,半年後,一位大河町出身的實業家 - 高山開治郎,捐贈了1200株的染井吉野櫻,種植在堤防上。</div><div><br /></div><div>高山開治郎是家中的長子,家裡經營旅館,明治天皇巡幸東北時,就在他們家的旅館享用午餐及休息。高山開治郎本應繼承家業,但15歲那年命運驟變,父親突然去世,旅館只好停業,獨自前往東京創業,以供養弟妹。他先是成功創立報社,之後經營藝術品生意,功成名就後,47歲的他想要回饋故鄉,恰逢白石川防洪堤防完工,便萌生了捐贈櫻花樹的念頭。</div><div><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046692301" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046692301_fa138db6a4_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047202725" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047202725_f0e5d6e346_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br />至於為什麼是櫻花樹?高山開治郎在東京自宅附近,有以櫻花聞名的飛鳥山公園,荒川的堤防也有櫻花並木,他覺得人們看到綻放的櫻花,總是笑顏逐開。</div><div><br /></div><div>於是,先後在大正12年(1923年)、1927年(昭和2年)捐贈了700株及500株的染井吉野櫻,沿著堤防種植,長達8km,也讓白石川堤防與船岡城址公園一同列入日本櫻花名所100選。</div><div><div></div>
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<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047202670" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047202670_27c7083e0a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046944389" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046944389_3a58e172b6_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br />在大河原町的大河原橋下,設立了一座高山開治郎的櫻樹碑,紀念碑旁的櫻花樹是由高山開治郎親手種下。</div><div><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52045648612" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52045648612_4245b9a0d6_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046944354" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046944354_61a6999a91_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br />不過我們沒有打算一路走到大河原,僅在堤防上走了小小一段,從柴田大橋到さくら步道橋,就那麼短短不到300m的距離。然後,倚著橋上護欄,靜靜地看著風吹搖曳的枝頭,又吹落幾片花瓣,享受片刻清幽。</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52045648352" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52045648352_c9842e7c69_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /><div></div>
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<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046744583" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046744583_5d0a793d38_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><div><br /></div><div>2019.04</div></div></div></div></div><div><br /></div><div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/01/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本函館追櫻:五稜郭.弁天台場.函館山.新選組土方歲三</a></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/04/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本盛岡追櫻:道南漁火鐵道.津輕海峽渡輪.石割櫻.盛岡城</a></div></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/05/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本宮城追櫻:藏王狐狸村.白石藏王駅</a></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/08/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本宮城追櫻:多賀城.松島</a></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/10/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本宮城追櫻:漫畫小鎮石卷.猫の島田代島住一晚</a></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/11/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本宮城追櫻:松島觀光船.北上展勝地公園</a></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/12/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本宮城追櫻:仙台夜櫻.夜景.米澤牛.烤牛舌「閣」</a></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2023/05/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本山形追櫻:寶珠山立石寺.山寺駅</a></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2023/07/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本宮城追櫻:仙台城.烤牛舌「伊達の牛たん本舗」</a></div>Laxichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04802970745091107114noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37782309.post-90611100588382560002022-05-17T00:52:00.011+08:002023-07-11T17:04:25.194+08:00日本宮城追櫻:藏王狐狸村.白石藏王駅<div>來到藏王町最期待的行程,就是藏王的御釜(おかま),今日的第一站就是去看這座綠意深邃的火口湖,還能順便撿一座百名山 - 藏王山。行程計畫一排下去才發現,從藏王山南面的御釜進入必須經過付費道路蔵王ハイライン,付錢不是問題,而是這條道路從11月至隔年黃金週會因積雪而封閉,偏偏藏王町觀光案内所回信告知該道路要隔一週的4月26日才開放,若是繞去西面從山形的藏王溫泉進入,開車時間增加、登山路線變長,爬升海拔變高,更別說要徒步面對為融雪的山路,藏王御釜只好忍痛從行程中劃掉。</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046693131" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046693131_3dfe562e26_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><span><a name='more'></a></span><div><br /></div><div>昨日從盛岡移動到仙台已入夜,隔日一大清早就來到仙台駅東口的Nissan Rent-a-car領取預定好的車,且會開上東北縱貫自動車道及仙台東部道路,也先預訂好ETC,還車時結算通行費。少了藏王御釜,車還是要開,時間倒是充裕不少。</div><div></div>
<div></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52054419960/in/dateposted-public/" title="201904花喵_190530_0096"><img alt="201904花喵_190530_0096" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52054419960_381391908d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br /><div></div>
<div></div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52052885497/in/dateposted-public/" title="201904花喵_190530_0034"><img alt="201904花喵_190530_0034" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52052885497_2f89a19357_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /><br />第一站來到不在藏王町的<a href="http://zao-fox-village.com/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">藏王狐狸村(蔵王キツネ村)</a>,完成Celia一直想看狐狸的願望。這是一個如果不自行開車會很難來到的地點,要不花大錢搭計程車,就是花上一整天搭少之又少的巴士。<div><div><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047201730" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047201730_a62511f7f1_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046943384" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046943384_0487f100de_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br />園方早上9點才開始營業,停車場內有不少與我們一樣提早到來的遊客,躲在車內休息,畢竟山中的氣溫仍是偏低。時間一到,叫醒從仙台就一路睡的伙伴,掏出1000円,換了張印有可愛的小狐狸門票。(萌萌的小狐狸,令人融化!)</div><div><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046943369" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046943369_1845acda03_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046743248" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046743248_9bcd6b0b9f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br />進到園內就看到大大的赤狐物語,說著赤狐在春季交配後,4至5月生下3至5隻幼狐,倍受寵愛的小狐狸經過了夏天後,在8月下旬就會上演離別的戲碼,母狐會突然轉性把小狐狸趕走。一如往常鑽入洞穴中的小狐狸會被母狐狸瘋狂攻擊,不論小狐狸如何懇求,母狐狸都會將牠們趕出洞穴。</div><div><br /></div><div>在這充滿愛意與悲傷與痛苦的告別儀式後,小狐狸必須開闢自己新的領地,在大自然的威脅下竭盡所能的生活,據說只有十分之一的小狐狸能生存下來,藉由此寓意讓大家想想現在父母過於溺愛的現象。</div><div><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52045647577" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52045647577_eb79fb9251_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br />園內廣場區是讓遊客體驗抱狐狸的區域,但是才剛開園,狐狸都還在睡,只有のり醬醒來招呼我們一下,即使睡眼惺忪,還算是很認真,不虧是拍過《子狐物語(子ぎつねヘレン)》的電影明星。</div><div><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047201650" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047201650_4c5ca8fc35_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52045646417" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52045646417_8ce157ff39_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br />ゴロ醬張開眼看一看我們,吐了小舌,就繼續夢周公去了。ゴロ醬另有兼差,就在我們來的前一個月,ゴロ醬任命為白石藏王駅的站長。其實ゴロ醬已經12歲,換成人類的年齡是64歲,所以應該是ゴロ歐吉桑了,看在你年紀大又兼職的份上,就繼續睡吧。</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046743263" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046743263_1184fd8952_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div>
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<div></div><br />天空廣場還沒開放,工作人員正忙進忙出的,一部份在修修補補,一部份在清掃狐狸的籠子。<br /><div></div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046943249" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046943249_0c95e05af4_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046691066" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046691066_237e7ef683_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046943319" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046943319_74769c23da_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br />這裡有零星的北極狐,去年夏天在<a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2021/07/d11-osarsaltverklatrabjargpuffin.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">冰島西峽灣看的北極狐</a>,正好在換毛,身上東掉一搓,西掉一搓,毛色也轉淡,白色大一脫到一半,有點尷尬。<br /><div></div>
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<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047201535" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047201535_a67c621ef9_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div>
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<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047201505" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047201505_09a5026dac_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br />廣場區的狐狸都關在小小的籠子內,挺可憐的,不知道晚一點會不會讓牠們出來自由活動。<br /><div></div>
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<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52045647362" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52045647362_81960c5ac4_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047201620" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047201620_425604883e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046943199" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046943199_95f3a9903f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br />此區還有山羊保育區,空間對山羊來說,也是嫌小。話說這些山羊該不會養大後,就成了狐狸的盤中飧?<br /><div></div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046691091" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046691091_47024c6ab9_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div></div>
<div></div><br /></div><div>遠方皚皚白雪的山頭,就是藏王連峰的不忘山、屏風岳、馬ノ神岳,後面看不見的地方就是御釜及藏王山最高峰的熊野岳。太遺憾了,那麼近卻到不了,希望下回有機會挑戰。</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047201470" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047201470_0fa26b3dff_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br />進入放養區域之前,有許多警告標語,千千萬萬不要去觸摸狐狸,不然一定百分之百被咬!<br /><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52045647317" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52045647317_f1f0dcfab6_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52045647297" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52045647297_287da3b943_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52045647277" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52045647277_4c0cb90903_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br />放養區域的空間挺開闊的,日光漸漸加溫,不少狐狸開始活動起來,空氣中的狐狸味道也開始變得明顯。</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046742298" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046742298_e43833e8c2_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div>
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<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046690921" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046690921_cb8d0d43c1_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046943149" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046943149_207f4a96aa_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047201360" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047201360_81fc3f88cf_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br />也有不少還在賴床的狐狸,這我懂!冷冷的溫度,蓋著厚厚的毛毯,總是特別好睡!</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52045647262" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52045647262_0167427fa0_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046690886" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046690886_6e9c12e110_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div>
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<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52045647172" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52045647172_95f3d6aa75_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52045647157" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52045647157_3cee23a9f4_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br />還好春天才剛開始,眼前狐狸的毛還是もふもふ的狀態,看上去柔軟蓬鬆,要忍住不伸手去摸。</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047201335" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047201335_7b8fa672a1_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047201290" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047201290_0854b64dba_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br />雖然狐狸看上去懶洋洋的,仍然具有危險性!除了不能伸手摸狐狸外,另有幾個事項需要特別注意,首先隨身物品不要懸吊掛飾或垂吊繩子,會被誤認為食物;也不能讓塑膠發出摩擦聲,或是大動作拿出物品,更不要貿然蹲下,狐狸會誤以為要放飯,就撲了上來!</div><div>(雖然後面這三項在貓島召喚貓咪很好用,貓會情不自禁衝過來(大心)~)</div><div><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046742968" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046742968_2d8c25ea92_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047201250" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047201250_3908be3c7f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br />還有一項很重要,當狐狸走過身旁時,千萬不要刻意閃躲,狐狸也會故意去咬躲開的人。難道狐狸會讀心術?專咬心虛的人?不過看來今天不會有這困擾,牠們幾乎都倒在地上呼呼大睡。</div><div><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047201230" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047201230_91602f35a3_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52045647017" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52045647017_c368cd5307_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046690781" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046690781_20f0bd018f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div>
<div></div>據聞園內有約有250隻狐狸,超過100隻狐狸在放養區。園內狐狸的品種有6種,最大宗的是北海道赤狐、稀有的銀狐、白金狐、日本赤狐、北極狐,以及混血兒的十字狐。</div><div><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046742258" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046742258_b674297969_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br />銀狐之所以稀有,是因為赤狐的體色變異,毛色部分呈現白色,部分在根部及尖端呈現黑色,也因如此,過去成了皮衣的犧牲品。<br /><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046742893" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046742893_bc3f773890_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br />白金狐擁有一身淺色白毛,僅有耳朵是黑色,尾巴也有一小塊灰褐色。十字狐之所以為混血兒,是赤狐與銀狐交配後所生下,誕生的小狐狸有50%的機率是十字狐。至於北海道赤狐與日本赤狐的分法,也不太清楚,我都以有沒有穿黑色襪子,或是嘴巴尖不尖來判別。</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047201175" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047201175_db3106d80b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br />接著來到餵食區,一處架高的木平台,入口處有個歐吉桑在顧的簡易櫃臺,掏出100円就可獲得一包飼料。<br /><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046942929" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046942929_fae68f93e8_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046742868" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046742868_8e4975d258_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br />狐狸都被制約了,只要有人靠近平台圍欄,狐狸們就會加快腳步圍過來。但是也只能用園方準備的飼料餵食,嚴禁餵食其他食物,也嚴禁在平台之外的地方餵食。<br /><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046942914" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046942914_ddab448d40_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046742853" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046742853_242745f4f9_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br />狐狸們專注盯著飼料的表情,還真是可愛,哀求的眼神頗讓人憐愛,但即便餵食也不能碰觸狐狸。</div><div><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046742838" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046742838_346a2abfd1_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047201125" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047201125_a8ef4594b2_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52045646757" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52045646757_40cebfb0a1_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br />ㄟㄟㄟ!你們沒有搶到飼料也不要打架!<br /><div></div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52045646767" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52045646767_1f53961322_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046742223" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046742223_f83c254aff_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br />出現奇妙的景象,一大群的狐狸跟著工作人員的腳步,來到地勢較高的小神社旁,接著灑出一瓢又一瓢的飼料,原來狐狸的放飯時間到了。</div><div><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046742808" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046742808_befe65fc2c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br />騷動的狐狸們,馬上低頭,安靜吃著。然後吃的差不多時,又再次騷動,邊叫邊搶食所剩不多的飼料。</div><div><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046742783" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046742783_c01d0756bd_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br />完食後的狐狸群,一哄而散,也有意猶未盡的狐狸,企圖潛入餵食區。櫃臺歐吉桑一轉頭,就馬上躲了起來,神不知鬼不覺,殊不知都在歐吉桑的監控中。<br /><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047201095" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047201095_3ecdd5f0a9_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52045646882" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52045646882_728e4aafcd_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br />也有吃飽沒事做就開始吵架的,兩隻狐狸趴在地上叫囂,嗚咽嗚咽的,生氣的叫聲像極了小嬰兒的哭聲。你們吵架就算了,為什麼要跑到正在睡覺的狐狸兩側嗚嗚叫,真是擾人清夢。</div><div><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046690631" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046690631_398447cefe_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046942794" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046942794_131182177e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046742733" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046742733_d3d5c3c069_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br />等等,別的狐狸在吵架,你在附和什麼?這樣不就曝光了嗎!歐吉桑發現你了啦!<br /><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52045646797" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52045646797_046d3cbee7_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52045646787" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52045646787_5d438c24cc_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br />其他狐狸吃飽了,就開始找地方睡,繼續睡回籠覺。<br /><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046742648" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046742648_019178650c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046742633" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046742633_0be19f0ec7_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047200965" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047200965_fa8a59a232_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046690451" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046690451_9dd09f89a2_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br />剛才工作人員餵食狐狸處,有座模擬的御金稻荷神社,我們在神社前等了好一會,希望拍張狐狸與神社的畫面,等了許久,始終無法如願。<br /><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047200925" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047200925_cf91cf36fa_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046742578" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046742578_566656edd1_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046690391" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046690391_d41dace9c8_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046942619" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046942619_1cb3d3b096_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br />難得有狐狸來喝水,可以拍到狐狸吐小舌的畫面也是不錯呢。<br /><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047200585" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047200585_b58f9b9a73_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div>
<div></div>上午的狐狸就是懶懶的,不是在睡覺,就是在發呆。<br /><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52045646637" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52045646637_94e558f568_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046942609" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046942609_140871c17e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br />沒事找事做的狐狸,就是在吵架,或是看別的狐狸吵架。<br /><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046742508" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046742508_25d0e04573_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046942564" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046942564_dd7f4891da_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046942549" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046942549_771d080fb0_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br />狐狸看到工作人員也會主動圍上去哭夭,會吵的孩子有糖吃,狐狸也是一樣,工作人員見狀就會掏幾顆飼料,不過狐狸吃完還是會繼續哭夭。<br /><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047200815" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047200815_2d7f1ca3f5_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046742458" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046742458_50aa7d984e_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><br /><br />圍網上掛了一張狐狸與人類年齡對照表,與貓咪年齡對照的差不多,只是傳說貓咪20歲後會變成妖怪貓又,狐狸20歲後又會變成什麼呢?<br /><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046690266" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046690266_eed1a4eb98_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><br /><br />離開園區前,ゴロ醬終於醒來上工了,笑瞇瞇的眼神真是討人歡喜,難怪會被選為白石藏王駅的站長。<br /><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046690256" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046690256_513139e06b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046690246" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046690246_d73416ecd7_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br />Q版立牌是《請讓我撒嬌,仙狐大人!(世話やきキツネの仙狐さん)》的動畫,黃褐色是仙狐,白色是シロ,都是狐狸神官。但我比較想看到在咚兵衛屋豆皮烏龍麵廣告中,化身狐狸的吉岡里帆。<br /><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046942469" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046942469_8a5731f11b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br />看了剛才的狐狸年齡對照表,突然想透一件事,原來廣場區給抱的狐狸,都是ゴロ醬與のり醬這種歐吉桑與歐巴桑了。如果要抱幼齒的,離開園區前的紀念品區,還有更年幼的小狐狸,模樣就像出生沒幾個月的幼犬一樣,光看牠聲聲呼喚的模樣,心就快要融化了!<br /><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046942439" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046942439_befb364cb5_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046690201" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046690201_f0526f0363_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046690156" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046690156_59aafb8f6d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br />話說,藏王狐狸村是在平成2年(1990年)開園,園主夫婦本來是經營乳畜業,熟識的友人在養殖生產毛皮用的狐狸,但在價格低的進口毛皮競爭下,國內毛皮養殖業者陸續倒閉。於是園主夫婦收容了這些無處可去的狐狸,以放牧的方式飼養,成了狐狸村的開端。</div><div><br /></div><div>由於藏王狐狸村地處偏僻,早期不太為外人所知,曾一度瀕臨破產危機。後來靠著地方政府及志工們的協助,廣為宣傳,才漸漸打開知名度。如今,園內繁殖的狐狸都不會用作毛皮生產之用,僅配合觀光展覽、媒體活動等展示租用,且與專業的獸醫持續研究狐狸繁殖與飼育技術,將園內的狐狸一直延續下去。</div><div><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046942399" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046942399_82b4ca7a6e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br />
<br />接著來到白石藏王駅,原本計畫來看狐狸站長,沒想到在藏王狐狸村就碰面了。既然都排入行程內了,也離白石城沒多遠,就還是來晃一晃。<br /><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046745483" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046745483_a9b903dfbe_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046945344" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046945344_bf83e8385f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br />白石藏王駅是在昭和57年(1982年)開業,東北新幹線的車站,一座島式加一座岸式月台,2面3線。車站外觀與盛岡駅的感覺差不多,看上去都有點樸素老派。</div><div><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046745473" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046745473_8f339cb23f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div>
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<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52045649502" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52045649502_08fd41050e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br />車站西口左右兩側出入口的落地玻璃上,貼著狐狸奔跑跳躍的貼紙,就像動畫的分鏡般。<br /><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046693176" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046693176_66389df897_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br />中間的玻璃則是貼上片倉氏的九曜家紋,以及真田氏的六文錢家紋。</div><div><div></div>
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<div></div>白石藏王駅到仙台駅之間,有一段直線區,長達25.7km,是日本鐵道最長的直線區間。當初東北新幹線在規劃福島至仙台之間的路線時,另有一個東線的選項,沿著阿武隈川,經過角田市後,再通往仙台。但由於丘陵地形與地質,施工難度較大,改選現在的西線。<br /><div></div>
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<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046745398" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046745398_4d8d43e0d5_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047203660" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047203660_e597ce8be2_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046945329" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046945329_6a9fa7164f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br />西線的方案中,也有兩個選項。一個是利用在來線既有的白石駅,將新幹線月台及站房併設在一起,但就要面對穿越市區街郭的路線高低差,以及架橋跨越白石川的複雜問題,最後選擇不共站,另設新幹線的獨立車站。<br /><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046945304" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046945304_e08f9cc21a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div>
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<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52047203640" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52047203640_75d152a2fa_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52045649407" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52045649407_bb3ce75a9e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046945259" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046945259_5cfae8ae94_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br />狐狸站長ゴロ醬值勤的站長室位置就在剪票口旁,站內只有唯一一處剪票口,不用擔心找不到,只需要擔心這天有沒有來上工而已。</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046745313" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046745313_bc163f3d32_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br />站長ゴロ醬是每個星期三早上9點到下午2點來車站值勤,若以新幹線的停靠班次來算,上行5班,下行6班,機會其實不多。看板上也記載一些藏王狐狸村的活動資訊,看來年幼小狐狸的抱抱體驗也是期間限定,不是隨時都有,可遇不可求。</div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046693061" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046693061_6fd0998e11_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><br /><br />站長室籠子上掛著"出差中"的紙條,等等,ゴロ醬明明就還在狐狸村睡覺呢!<br /><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52045649397" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52045649397_00fea1985d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div>
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<div></div>滿足看狐狸的願望後,接下繼續追櫻,下一站是白石城,仙台藩的城砦之一,伊達政宗家臣 - 片倉景綱的居城。</div><div><div></div>
<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046744163" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046744163_db1db389be_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><br /><div></div>
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<div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/52046945234" target="_blank"><img alt="" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046945234_06422e11b7_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><div>2019.04</div></div></div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/01/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本函館追櫻:五稜郭.弁天台場.函館山.新選組土方歲三</a></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/04/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本盛岡追櫻:道南漁火鐵道.津輕海峽渡輪.石割櫻.盛岡城</a></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/07/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本宮城追櫻:白石城.船岡城址公園.一目千本櫻</a></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/08/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本宮城追櫻:多賀城.松島</a></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/10/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本宮城追櫻:漫畫小鎮石卷.猫の島田代島住一晚</a></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/11/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本宮城追櫻:松島觀光船.北上展勝地公園</a></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/12/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本宮城追櫻:仙台夜櫻.夜景.米澤牛.烤牛舌「閣」</a></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2023/05/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本山形追櫻:寶珠山立石寺.山寺駅</a></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2023/07/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本宮城追櫻:仙台城.烤牛舌「伊達の牛たん本舗」</a></div>Laxichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04802970745091107114noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37782309.post-25009439268560506742022-04-27T17:33:00.025+08:002023-07-11T17:04:14.639+08:00日本盛岡追櫻:道南漁火鐵道.津輕海峽渡輪.石割櫻.盛岡城
<div>函館一天的行程結束,櫻花撲空了,沒有如願看到紅粉綻放。一大清早,便往南方移動,離開北海道,接下來的追櫻行程就都在本島東北,看看緯度南邊一點,櫻花會不會盛開一些。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51775590835/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51775590835_678dab2230_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<span><a name='more'></a></span><div><br /></div><div>我們捨棄從新函館北斗駅或木古内町駅轉乘較快的北海道新幹線,反倒選了搭乘渡輪,用比較慢的方式離開北海道。一方面想要看海,另一方面想要悠閒一些,在渡輪上稍微補眠一下。</div><div><br /></div><div>到渡輪碼頭的交通方式有點麻煩,直接開進碼頭的巴士,不是站牌太遠,就是發車時間太晚。離我們膠囊旅館較近的巴士,下車地點卻在北海道大學水產學院附近,要步行一段距離。既然如此,還是來搭<a href="https://www.shr-isaribi.jp/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">道南漁火鐵道(道南いさりび鉄道)</a>,雖然也是要走一小段距離,但時間比較好抓。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51775590885/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51775590885_9d557729b8_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>在北海道新幹線開通之前,函館駅是通往旭川的函館本線起點站,也是電車從本州穿過世界最長海底隧道 - 青函隧道的海峽線北端終點站。</div><div><br /></div><div>海峽線是當時三條路線部分區段的共同暱稱,包含輕津線的蟹田到中小國、江差線的木古內到五稜郭、函館本線的五稜郭到函館,也稱為輕津海峽線。在北海道新幹線開業後,青函隧道僅供新幹線及貨運列車通行,津輕海峽線的稱呼就走入歷史。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51775352064/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51775352064_f08a45384c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51774954218/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51774954218_3a04714d20_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><div>函館駅的月台有4面8線,3號線停著道南漁火鐵道的キハ40形1700番台國鐵柴聯車,5號線是JR北海道733系電車,在7號線露出一點點的是キハ261系1000番台柴聯車的特急北斗。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51775588820/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51775588820_bee9386bf4_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51773891857/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51773891857_7a58d7071d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>道南漁火鐵道的列車相當有意思,每一節車廂的塗裝都不同顏色,車身上印有道南漁火鐵道的Logo,圖案象徵藍色大海與捕捉烏賊的漁火,還有一條橫過全車的線條,簡單俐落地勾勒出函館山的外型。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51773892007/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51773892007_c55d5d52f9_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51773891817/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51773891817_c7eb1feae0_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>我們從列車後方一路往前走,挑選要坐在哪一個顏色的車廂,走到第一節車廂才發現,原來這是道南漁火鐵道的觀光列車「<a href="https://www.shr-isaribi.jp/nagamare/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">ながまれ海峽號</a>」。「ながまれ」取自北海道南部方言,有慢慢來、悠閒自在之意。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51775590655/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51775590655_f74d494f5f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>第一節車廂的塗裝更加凸顯道南漁火鐵道的元素,在深藍暗夜中的閃爍星空,以及海上的點點漁火。雖然沒有看過此處漁火的景象,但腦中浮現出某次夜登七星山,在山頂遠望金山漁民捕捉青鱗魚的磺港漁火,我想大概就是那樣的畫面吧。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51774954698/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51774954698_a638679556_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51774710696/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51774710696_94167b1b9a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div></div></div><div>雖然名為海峽號,這輛觀光列車有一半的車次僅在函館與上磯之間往返,但是上磯之前的路線是幾乎看不到海。若想望見遼闊的海景,就要選擇開往木古內的班次。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51773891757/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51773891757_088b9649b5_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51774710501/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51774710501_7c52745c95_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><div><div>「ようこそ! 道南へ 今宵の月のよろしく すばらしい思い出す。」</div><div>可惜在函館沒有看到月色,是個多雲的夜晚。但回憶是美好的,希望接下來行程的天氣愈來愈好。列車上貼了許多這類貼紙,是當地居民歡迎遊客到來的詞句,只是我們看到時,已是離開函館之時。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51774954568/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51774954568_5c64b9cc56_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div></div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51775351829/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51775351829_bfcaed102a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51775351744/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51775351744_f3891af7f6_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div></div></div><div><div>側線上停了許多キハ281系柴聯車,上面印著顯著的FURICO 281,與キハ261一同擔當特急北斗的要角。北斗這班特急列車是JR北海道連接道南與道央的重要經濟命脈,最初使用的車輛是キハ183系柴聯車,於昭和40年(1965年)首次往返函館與札幌。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51773891487/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51773891487_e00184a7d0_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51775351669/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51775351669_55c834f0a2_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>但是面對道央自動車道逐漸往南延伸,公路運輸威脅日益遽增,將特急列車北斗提速,成了JR北海道當下的挑戰。在這樣的背景下,傾斜式的キハ281系柴聯車被開發出來,往返函館與札幌需要將近3小時半的路程,縮短成3小時以內。</div><div><br /></div><div>為了區別キハ183系運行的北斗,キハ281系則以超級北斗(スーパー北斗)來稱呼,キハ261之後也加入超級北斗的行列。後來キハ183系退役,失去區別的必要性,統一稱為北斗。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51773891562/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51773891562_f326c66a14_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51775351589/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51775351589_81695dd058_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div></div></div></div></div><div>整輛列車沒有其他乘客,今早由我們包場了。即使看不到海,還是挑了靠海側的座位,靠海側的窗戶下緣,貼了小貼紙,提醒乘客天氣好時,可以看見函館山哦。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51775590340/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51775590340_aac4732836_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>列車一駛出月台,函館山果然就出現在車窗上,山頂大大的觀景台,要忽視不見都很難。</div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51773891402/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51773891402_eb9c53a672_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>側線上還停著國鐵時代的DE10型柴油機車1737,這型柴油機車目前在函館運輸所配置了3輛。函館運輸所的位置就在函館駅的旁邊,是JR北海道函館支社的車輛基地。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51774954298/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51774954298_ba4b45e4b6_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div>我們體驗道南漁火鐵道只有短短的2站,中間經過五稜郭駅,JR貨物在此設有五稜郭機關區,作為車輛基地,月台正停著一輛暱稱ECO-POWER RED BEAR的DF200型柴油機車。</div><div><br /></div><div>五稜郭駅其實才是道南漁火鐵道線的起點站,而道南漁火鐵道線的前身是JR北海道的江差線。江差線從五稜郭駅到江差駅,最初是為了運送上磯村峨朗的石灰石到函館,於大正2年(1913年)以上磯輕便線開業,之後改名為上磯線。最後在昭和11年(1936年)開通到檜山郡江差町,貨運部分也多了當地出產的木材及海產。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51774954328/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51774954328_c797e59961_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>隨著昭和63年(1988年)青函隧道啟用,木古內到五稜郭之間啟用電氣化,並於平成28年(2016年)北海道新幹線開通後,移轉給第三部門鐵道的道南漁火鐵道來經營。而木古內到江差因貨運停辦,再加上搭乘人次遽降,於平成26年(2014年)廢線。</div><div><br /></div><div>9分鐘後,我們來到七重濱駅。這是一座無人車站,在改名為上磯線後,七重濱駅於大正15年(1926年)以純客運業務開業,多年後開辦貨運,但又再50年後停辦。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776729954/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776729954_0d3801b7c7_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>七重濱(ななえはま)取自北海道方言阿伊努語的「ヌアンナイ」,意為豐饒的河川,然後再加上「濱」字,與不遠的七飯(ななえ)町作區隔。站內擁有一座島式月台,2面2線,在北側留有一條科斯莫石油公司(COSMO / コスモ)函館物流基地的專用線。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51775273017/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51775273017_6d3587e4d2_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776091376/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776091376_e9b702025b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>站房在跨線天橋上,沒有站務員與其他乘客。屋內暖氣不停放送,窗外還看見函館山,真想賴在這裡睡一下。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776974810/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776974810_cbeba1a176_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div>七重濱駅距離渡輪碼頭1.5km,離開船還有70分鐘的時間,看似綽綽有餘,實際卻只有30分鐘,因為規定要在開船40分鐘前在櫃臺完成登記手續,不得不加緊腳步趕路。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776091366/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776091366_45901e973e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>寒冷的早晨,走的氣喘呼呼,身體也暖呼呼,一不小心走過頭,走到車輛專用入口,這才看到步行者通道在身後另一個入口。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776336413/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776336413_c6d0392b5d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>從入口到函館渡輪航站(函館ターミナル)還有350m,離時間的最後前限只剩5分鐘,於是一手向後扶妥背包,拔腿向前狂奔。心中想著,只要我們其中一人衝進去,那就成功了。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776089451/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776089451_45fffc0870_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div>時限內,函館渡輪航站順利達陣。拿出事先在官網預訂好的預約確認書,從櫃台換取航渡輕津海峽的船票,終於鬆一口氣。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776089416/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776089416_ecf222186e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div>我們搭的是<a href="https://www.tsugarukaikyo.co.jp/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">津輕海峽渡輪(津軽海峡フェリー)</a>,船次是早上7:40的第3個航次,前2個分別是半夜0:30及3:10,再往下一班就要等到中午12點整,對我們而言太晚了。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776089396/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776089396_732f8cca47_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>走出大樓外看海,又是一座戀人聖地的紀念裝置「ハートのモニュメント」,敲響掛在心上的戀人鐘,清脆又響亮的鐘聲在寧靜港埠中迴盪,反倒有點不好意思。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776336323/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776336323_33024d8817_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>兩側碼頭都已經有渡輪停泊,一會要登船的「藍色美人魚(ブルーマーメイド)」在左側,右側是雙體船設計的「ナッチャン World」,船身有著恐龍及童趣彩繪圖案,與原為「ナッチャン Rera」的麗娜輪為姊妹輪,都是跑往返函館 - 青森的航線。</div><div><br /></div><div>後來,麗娜輪被台灣華岡集團的東聯航運買走,規劃用來往返花蓮-石垣港,但只往返一次後便不了了之,後來改跑蘇澳-花蓮的航線。大概是生意慘淡,現在拉回台灣西部跑台南安平-澎湖馬公。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776336333/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776336333_50fe5c6e25_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div>啟航時間前15分鐘要登船,差不多該前往3樓移動囉。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776089321/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776089321_b321b00668_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776089256/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776089256_8566e3acfe_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>順著手扶梯來到3樓,有點像是在逛沒有櫃位的百貨公司,不論面海或面陸地都有大片的落地窗景,而且每層樓都有需許多座位,今天都空蕩蕩的,想坐哪就坐哪。</div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776089281/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776089281_1dd104fc76_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776974585/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776974585_c8cb8dabfa_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><div>聽說,位在函館渡輪航站的步行者通道與車道之間,是Mister Donut的甜甜圈生產工廠。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776336218/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776336218_fa7957676b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776336253/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776336253_cacf0e8286_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776974555/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776974555_5e6624ff01_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div></div></div><div>除了函館 - 青森之外,津輕海峽渡輪的航線還有函館 - 大間,開往青森縣的下北半島,只是到了以黑鮪魚聞名的大間後,交通就要傷腦筋了,要想辦法移動到海上自衛隊軍港的大湊,才有電車可以搭。</div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.seikan-ferry.co.jp/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">青函渡輪(青函フェリー)也有在經營函館 - 青森這條航線,登船碼頭在函館港的北埠頭,航程要4小時,船班也稍微晚了一些,這回就沒有納入考量。</a></div><div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776089306/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776089306_e4051888bd_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776336188/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776336188_05e19633fd_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div></div></div><div>拿著剛換來印有海豚浮水印的船票,閘門感應QR Code,通過連接渡輪的搭乘橋,想到馬上就可以補眠了,心情愉悅。</div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51775272732/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51775272732_3848a4c0c8_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776336148/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776336148_01f54dc1b0_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776089126/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776089126_7f59773391_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>搭乘橋就沒有暖氣了,瞬間變得寒冷,拍幾張函館渡輪航站的三角形建築,以及「ナッチャン World」渡輪,就快步走入船艙內。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776336123/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776336123_f11c99f54b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51775272682/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51775272682_e3043a09dc_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51775272667/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51775272667_95db1ac00d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>登船結束,入口處暫時關閉,一大早的趕路行程結束,時間壓力解除,此刻心情也暫時輕鬆了,還有3小時40分鐘的時間才到達青森,能夠悠閒吃早餐、看海、睡覺。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776974430/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776974430_e2f1d9a293_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div><div>初進到船艙內,有點判斷不了方向,大略看一下<a href="https://www.tsugarukaikyo.co.jp/ferry/blue_mermaid/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">「藍色美人魚(ブルーマーメイド)」</a>的艙內配置圖,總是要知道如何走去自己的座位嘛。</div><div><br /></div><div>活動的區域在第4層及第5層甲板,上層的後半部屬於個室的套間艙(スイート)及舒適艙(コンフォート),下層前半部是開方式的觀景座(ビューシート)及標準艙(スタンダード)。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51775272627/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51775272627_7be289b96b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776974420/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776974420_efa203123b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776088791/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776088791_070ce62113_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>中央走廊的兩側便是標準艙(スタンダード),其中又分成有無障礙設施的優先席、一般用、女性專用、親子專用的通鋪。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776336058/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776336058_0ab3c7830c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776088956/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776088956_43d8926864_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51775272612/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51775272612_3c27fc9c39_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776088986/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776088986_06b120b258_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776088976/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776088976_26b33b8ce3_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>兩側走道有小桌椅可以看海,走道的盡頭,就是我們訂購的觀景座(ビューシート)。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776729409/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776729409_960497bbef_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>觀景座是指定席,不能擅自進入,但好像也沒有看到船方的人在管控就是了。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776974315/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776974315_43f3c7b8fb_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>觀景座位在駕駛室的正下方,座椅前方是觀景窗,按船票上的號碼入座。我們的座位在第一排,還好太陽不會曬進來,更重要的是,座椅可以放倒躺平,還附一條毛毯。於是,卸下背包,趕緊出去瀏覽一番,然後再趕快回來睡。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776088886/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776088886_a3bed8efa0_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776088916/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776088916_6a2b3077d1_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>繼續探索下層的後半部,有男女淋浴間、貨車司機專用休息室。司機休息室也要持有專屬票券才能進入,看來我唯一能進入的,就只有遊戲間與男生淋浴間了。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776973940/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776973940_975b212821_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776088836/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776088836_91cfa7e3c9_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776088831/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776088831_d17e3f53a8_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776335618/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776335618_27346d473a_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>另一側有寵物專用空間及個室,都有附設專屬陽台,可以讓寵物放風。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776088816/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776088816_fb4bef5256_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776088806/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776088806_ae24998da9_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div></div></div></div></div><div>下層中央便是通往上層的樓梯與電梯,上層全部都是個室的套間艙(スイート)及舒適艙(コンフォート)。</div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776729279/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776729279_aba31a4119_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776335838/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776335838_115a283c86_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776335798/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776335798_926e888356_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776088646/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776088646_3b1727615d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>筆直穿過個室走廊,來到戶外甲板。除了風有點大之外,天氣真是不錯,港灣景色清晰,升溫的陽光很宜人。</div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776335788/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776335788_e132e481fb_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776974090/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776974090_2e8799152f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776974065/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776974065_389cf98b98_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>渡輪反推轉向離開碼頭,慢慢地遠離海岸線,屋舍愈來愈小,相較之下,函館渡輪航站與「ナッチャン World」真是個龐然大物。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776335778/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776335778_66a0fbd235_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51775272337/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51775272337_de6e580723_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776729154/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776729154_f230f96c15_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776088696/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776088696_cb5fc9e8cf_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>松前半島上的雲層壓的好低,後排一些山頂還有積雪未融,山勢平緩,看似很容易爬的樣子,不知怎麼突然想起2年前殘念的利尻馬拉松,希望未來有機會去完成它。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776729184/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776729184_883ce5e089_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776729194/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776729194_989a55ec7d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><br /><div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51775272232/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51775272232_b0052de3f3_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>渡輪緩緩駛出堤防,漸漸離開函館灣,該回到艙內吹暖氣囉。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776335678/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776335678_de3c4de4b2_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776335668/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776335668_48cd9c9c5b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>下層中央的大廳空間,有紀念品販售區。買了些零食,再到一旁的餐飲販賣機,買冷凍加熱食品。</div><div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776974270/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776974270_899184cd0b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776088851/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776088851_843f85f8bb_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776335913/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776335913_9dd7daf445_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776335883/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776335883_c9526ea997_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>販賣機內最吸引目光的商品,就是<a href="http://www.e-kanaya.com/index.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">長萬部かにめし本舗的螃蟹便當(かにめし弁当)</a>,二話不說,塞張紙鈔進販賣機。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776729364/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776729364_530a3e6e2d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div></div><div><div><br /></div></div></div></div></div></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51775272172/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51775272172_94ce723697_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>便當加熱後,空氣中飄著淡淡螃蟹香氣,白飯上鋪滿蟹肉絲,嚐起來有點像魚鬆,愈嚼愈香,但口感有點乾,大概微波加熱有所影響吧。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776729064/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776729064_1b33d33f2e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>飯後再來枝冰棒,看一下螢幕上的航行資訊,才剛要開過函館山後方,還有很多時間可以補眠。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776973915/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776973915_321e6df4b4_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776729119/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776729119_7e9d2bd3fc_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>回到自己的座位上,看著海放空,突然有海豚從船艏左前方躍出海面,有海豚伴行也太幸運了。趕緊抓起相機,拍了幾張,但等我換上長焦鏡頭後,就再也等不到海豚躍出海面。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776973895/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776973895_c0094bfbaa_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>等我們睜開睡眼惺忪的雙眼,渡輪已駛入陸奧灣,青森港灣已在眼前。青森縣觀光物產館ASPAM的三角形建築與魚津埋沒林博物館好像,斜張橋橫跨越過青森駅的月台,月台尾端的東側碼頭,依稀可見青函聯絡船八甲田丸的紀念博物館。</div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.sii-line.co.jp/index.php" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Sii Line(シィライン)高速船</a>碼頭也在月台尾端,可以橫渡陸奧灣,觀賞海上絕景佛浦,沿著下北半島西海岸線到佐井港。只是好像很難從佐井走陸路接回來青森,算了,等下次有規劃青森的行程再來傷腦筋就好。</div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776088536/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776088536_b3f3a61b91_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>渡輪慢慢滑進港灣,靠向青森渡輪航站(青森フェリーターミナル),船內廣播響起,要開車登船的乘客回到車上準備,我們則是到盥洗室洗把臉,然後回到座位看大船入港。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776973855/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776973855_08723f0fbc_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>青函渡輪(青函フェリー)的はやぶさ停在碼頭的另一側,啟航的時間也差不多到了,等我們進港後就會出航了。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776729009/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776729009_44c2e0f4ed_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776728989/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776728989_4a89b65000_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>踏上青森,從搭乘橋到航站大廳,掛滿金魚ねぶた,據說金魚燈籠是召喚幸福的象徵。或許是早年金魚非常昂貴,平民無法飼養,只好製作燈籠為樂。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776335483/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776335483_0f89b368fa_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776728939/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776728939_a8094d79a0_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>當然還有迷你版的睡魔燈籠山車,讓我們更想來參加睡魔祭,接下來一路上,便開始有一搭沒一搭的討論起仙台七夕祭、秋田竿燈祭,想一次跑完東北三大祭典。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776335468/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776335468_ab3affbf88_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776088476/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776088476_fe415342f9_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>在青森沒有任何行程,僅是轉換交通工具,接下來改搭新幹線繼續南下。從青森渡輪航站到新青森駅要3.2km,走路也不是走不到,只是走過去又要花1個小時。還好兩地之間有<a href="https://www.aomori-kanko-bus.co.jp/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">青森觀光巴士(青森観光バス)</a>可搭,時間上有配合渡輪靠港。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776088456/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776088456_633cc7ce4d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776335448/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776335448_65bb6ee4e3_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div><div>從下船至巴士到來約有10至20分鐘的緩衝時間,等車的時候,偏偏肚子開始痛起來。該不會是螃蟹在肚子裡作祟!?又偏偏時刻到了,巴士連個影都沒有....</div><div><br /></div><div>好想先到航站內的廁所尋求解脫,但錯過這班車,又要看海發呆半小時才有下一班巴士,就要推延改搭下一班的新幹線。就在天人交戰時,睡魔號(ねぶたん号)現身了,遲了8分鐘,時間不長,但很煎熬。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776335408/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776335408_1c273a2445_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div></div><div><div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776088441/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776088441_988c1101c7_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>9分鐘的車程到新青森駅東口,一路上冷汗與雞皮疙瘩直冒,完全不想聊天,一下車只想往車站大門衝,尋找救贖的廁所。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51775272002/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51775272002_1b6b18ba49_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776335318/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776335318_f6e1343f7b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>急歸急,還是順手拍了幾張睡魔號的照片,有綠白相間與紅色兩種塗裝,主要是往返繩文時代的三內丸山遺跡,以及棟方志功紀念館之間的景點,串聯新青森駅東口、青森渡輪航站、青森駅,對遊客來說很便利,就連平常日都很人搭乘,差一點我們就是站票了。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776335388/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776335388_38cdc28212_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776335368/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776335368_0276589d0d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776335348/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776335348_8030400c0b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51775271942/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51775271942_ba349a23d4_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div><div>昨天換的<a href="https://www.jreast.co.jp/multi/zh-CHT/pass/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">JR東北.南北海道鐵道路周遊券</a>終於派上用場了,拿著JR Pass換取前往盛岡的車票。因為在廁所多耽擱了些時間,結果只能搭乘比預期晚一班的新幹線,強忍著肚子痛來到新青森駅,沒有改變不同的結局 。</div></div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51775271882/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51775271882_360e56cff3_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776088361/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="IMG_0240_stitch"><img alt="IMG_0240_stitch" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776088361_9de6f08769_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776088306/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776088306_fa475183db_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>至少等車的時間變多了,可以好好物色車上吃的便當。看著「青天の霹靂 米日記」的便當,名字與包裝都感覺很厲害,但該不會打開真的只有白米飯。仔細看了一會,側標有配菜的食材圖示,看來是自己想太多了。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776335233/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776335233_cd951802a5_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div>新青森駅的票閘在2樓,南側是奧羽本線的在來線,貫穿古稱陸奧國的福島、宮城、青森,以及出羽國的秋田、山形,是東北中央的主要鐵道。</div><div><br /></div><div>奧羽本線的其中兩個路段進行了高速化升級,將原本的窄軌增設第三軌,成為標準軌,使新幹線能夠行駛,稱為迷你新幹線(ミニ新幹線),分別是福島至新庄的山形新幹線、盛岡至秋田的秋田新幹線。</div><div><br /></div><div>這次的行程完全沾不上奧羽本線的邊,希望下回能來體驗某一段,再加碼五能線的Resort白神,倚著車窗看海看個夠。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776088326/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776088326_5f2bf123c2_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div></div><div>站房北側是新幹線的區域,這次僅能體驗北海道新幹線及東北新幹線的主力擔當 - E5系電車,也很滿足了。</div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776335203/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776335203_47d00b0d13_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>梯廳內各種迷你版的睡魔燈籠山車及版畫,還有逗趣的蘋果達摩,利用短暫的時間欣賞一番,讓這次路過青森的記憶,再多一些畫面。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776973630/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776973630_45a10eee05_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776728769/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776728769_4bc6f25546_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776728744/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776728744_c88935c29c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776088346/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776088346_252b383741_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>新幹線月台在車站3樓,2座島式月台,2面4線。往北海道方向有一望無際的藍天,希望到盛岡也會如此。由於從新函館北斗發出的車次真的很少,一天僅12班,沒有辦法看到列車駛入的畫面。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776088161/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776088161_b40cbab136_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>我們搭乘的車次是從新青森發車的隼號(はやぶさ),已經在月台等候,塗裝上綠下白。至於這個綠與白的顏色,官方說是「常盤綠(常盤グリーン)」與「飛雲白(飛雲ホワイト)」,充滿想像的用詞,總之有點像蔥綠,最接近初音未來的髮色,遠看時會帶些藍,姑且就稱為北海道新幹線綠吧。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776728674/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="IMG_0265_stitch"><img alt="IMG_0265_stitch" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776728674_f1d000c813_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776088221/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776088221_cab984634d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776973595/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776973595_188731ddd8_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div></div></div></div><div>第一節及第十節車廂繪有象徵遊隼(ハヤブサ)的意象Logo,車身中央是以「疾風粉紅はやてピンク」的色帶貫穿全車。後繼的H5系電車,色帶改成「彩香紫(さいかパープル)」,象徵北海道特色的薰衣草,Logo換成海東青(シロハヤブサ)。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776088176/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776088176_0abbe6e4be_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div><div>除了我們,還有另外兩位乘客,差一點要包了這節車廂。找到座位後,就趕快拿出便當,這班車次在新青森與盛岡之間是站站停,車程仍只要1小時又5分鐘。可惜,意料外的肚子痛,將行程耽擱,等盛岡結束後,再看看有無機會前去原本計畫中的一關市釣山公園。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51775271717/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51775271717_82e577ab7e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51775271697/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51775271697_c83d7a757b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div>一進到盛岡駅,看到車站內廣告看板上6月的「チャグチャグ馬コ」及8月的「盛岡さんさ踊り」,讓人也想在夏天來此參加祭典。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51775271672/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51775271672_ed300171f0_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776971600/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776971600_f731bdd83b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>走出盛岡駅,到處都是<a href="https://iwatetabi.jp/wanko/introduction" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">碗子兄弟(わんこきょうだい)</a>。他們是岩手縣的吉祥物,以岩手縣日本產量第一的塗漆作為代表,將碗狀漆器擬人化。因為今年2019年世界盃橄欖球賽就在日本舉行,名為Ren-G的連獅子也很常見,紅白毛髮是以日本歌舞伎連獅子為型,白髮的Ren代表父母,紅髮的G是孩子。</div><div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776334923/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776334923_54c710b579_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51775271637/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51775271637_ff18139b02_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51775271627/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51775271627_0402636a2d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div><div>碗子兄弟有各自所代表之物,老大蕎麥碗弟(そばっち)代表整個岩手縣,是一口蕎麥麵的代言人;五穀碗弟(こくっち)代表日本穀物產量第一的二戶、久慈、縣北區域;豆腐碗弟(とふっち)代表豆腐使用量非常高的盛岡、八幡平、縣央區域。至於為什麼這些地方豆腐用量大,就不清楚了。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776728614/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776728614_b7a4251ec9_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div></div></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776973435/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776973435_6c9730ab6c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div>年糕碗弟(おもっち)代表自古就種米農家多的平泉、花卷、遠野、縣南區域;海膽碗弟(うにっち)代表非常多海膽、鮑魚等海鮮的宮古、釜石、大船渡、沿岸南部區域。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51775271582/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51775271582_d60413ccc4_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div><div><div>跨過北上川的「開運橋」,與盛岡駅在同一年誕生。北上川源自盛岡市東北的岩手町的弓弭の泉,由北往南流,沿途流經花巻、北上,為盛岡藩統治之地。下游的奧州、一關、登米、石卷,則為仙台藩之統治。在開運橋往南幾百公尺處,有中津川及雫石川匯入,自古以來舟運發達,讓盛岡在江戶時代成了重要的物流據點。</div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776973335/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776973335_6e76969986_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div></div></div></div><div>開運橋旁的十字路口,岩手山的雪白倩影出現在路的盡頭。可惜這一側的角度不好,回程再找找其他角度,看看能不能一見岩手山完整的身影,也希望清澈的藍天能等等我。</div></div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776973290/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776973290_7d7690d2d1_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div>盛岡駅在明治23年(1890年)開業後,為了連結車站與市區,當時的岩手縣知事石井省一郎自掏腰包興建了開運橋,隔年才由市來收購。初代為木橋結構,受到北上川水患影響,大正6年(1917年)改建為鋼骨結構的桁架橋,現在所見為昭和28年(1953年)建造的三代目開運橋。</div><div><br /></div><div>開運橋有個「二度泣き橋」的別名,據說源自那些工作經常被調動的轉勤族,當他們被調動到盛岡,初次跨過開運橋時,因為來到比東北第一大城仙台還要遙遠的北邊而哭泣;轉勤調動結束後,在前往盛岡駅的路上,最後一次跨過開運橋,仰望著岩手山,又不捨地潸然淚下。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776728494/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="IMG_0295_stitch"><img alt="IMG_0295_stitch" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776728494_3f6054a3d8_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div>第一站是「石割櫻(石割桜)」,位置在岩手縣廳旁的盛岡地方裁判所,沿著盛岡駅東口的岩手縣道2號盛岡停車場線往前走,接上大通り,再切到隔壁條的中央通り就行了。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776334808/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776334808_7327a97239_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>遠遠看,盛岡地方裁判所外圍已經聚集了一群人,他們一定不是來地方法院出庭的,而是為了這棵已經列為國家天然紀念物的石割櫻。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51775271422/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51775271422_71a7981c3c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div>盛岡地方裁判所的前身是仙台裁判所盛岡支廳,廢藩置縣之前,是從盛岡南部藩分主的北家宅邸,。這顆花岡岩巨石在宅邸的庭園中,直徑約1.35m,根據北家的家臣記載,寶永5年(1708年)的一道落雷將巨石劈裂,恰巧有顆江戶彼岸櫻的種子掉入裂縫中,300餘年後的今天,在我們面前盛開綻放。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776973195/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="IMG_0307_stitch"><img alt="IMG_0307_stitch" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776973195_8c786213a6_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776087786/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="IMG_0314_stitch"><img alt="IMG_0314_stitch" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776087786_b327404543_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>繞了一圈都沒有看見石割櫻的根部,或許它藏在縫內,不停生長,默默地將巨石裂縫撐開。露在石頭上的部分,約有11m高,幹粗枝細,向外伸展,就像要把花瓣遞到我們眼前欣賞一般。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776334698/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776334698_5a8b61d818_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776728274/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776728274_1f0fbf188d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776971135/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="IMG_0324_stitch"><img alt="IMG_0324_stitch" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776971135_4cf3a402b7_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>裁判所的前庭內,也有其他盛開的櫻花樹,只是與石割櫻的奇特相比,相形失色,被眾人冷落一旁。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776334583/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776334583_bded511352_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776728254/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776728254_cf7a2e82ac_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div>岩手縣廳對面有三座鳥居,路的盡頭,便是櫻山神社。這個位在盛岡城北側凸出來的區域,過去是盛岡城內曲輪一部份,鳥居處是北側城門 - 綱門,右(西)有亀ケ池、左(東)有鶴ケ池,將中津川的水引入,作為盛岡城的内堀。</div><div><br /></div><div>現今,大通り將這個北側凸出來的區域截斷,成了餐飲店家密集的市街地。本來打算在裡面的白龍麵店品嘗炸醬麵,後來想了想,這是台灣也很普遍的麵食,還是換一間吧。</div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776972930/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776972930_3147d042f6_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>一旁的「岩手縣公會堂」,昭和2年(1927年)所建,是大正12年(1923年)為了紀念昭和天皇成婚(當時仍是裕仁皇太子)所提出的興建構想,而婚禮因為關東大地震延後至隔年舉辦。</div><div><br /></div><div>公會堂主建築為2層樓高,中央塔樓為6層樓。以當時而言,是棟高樓建築,據說可以俯瞰整個盛岡市街。竣工的隔年,舉辦了陸軍特別大演習,一場以盛岡為中心的大型軍演,昭和天皇以大元帥的身分,搭乘御召列車來到盛岡,公會堂成了天皇坐鎮的軍演指揮部及下塌處。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776334553/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776334553_1562baa6fb_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>跨過中津川的上ノ橋,另一頭是「紺屋町番屋」,白身紅頂、木造洋風,充滿懷舊感的建築,是明治24年(1891年)所建,作為盛岡的消防局使用,名為「盛岡消防よ組番屋」。2層樓的主體,再加上挑高的六角型瞭望塔,居高觀察市區動態,在當時也是地標性的建築。大正2年(1913年)進行重建,至今仍是消防隊的基地及倉庫,據說近期要將其活化及改造,增添咖啡館等讓市民交流的設施。</div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776728159/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776728159_1afb5f3f3f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div>轉個彎,是一棟2層樓高、長度24m的店鋪,名為「茣蓙九(ござ九)」。商家自嘉慶21年(1816年)創業,從江戶時代後期到明治時代販售著蠟燭及稻草製品,直到現在都還在販售竹簍、竹掃帚等日常用品。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776087501/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776087501_ca940c7bf5_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div>建築本身相當低調,看不見招牌,也沒有一眼就能辨識的商家標誌,直到走至中央入口處,才會見著手工藝的竹製商品。或許因為如此,傳統商家的典型樣貌被保留了下來,時光未央,歲月靜好。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51775271082/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51775271082_cf2a79340e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div>上班日的閑靜街道,一派悠閒地逛著。再拐了個彎,一棟帶有亮眼的建築現身,這棟「盛岡信用金庫」的前身為舊盛岡儲蓄銀行本店。正面看上去的廊柱,帶有希臘古典神廟的風格,是昭和2年(1927年)由盛岡市當地出生的建築師 - 葛西萬司所設計,大家對他最熟悉的作品,就是作為進出東京都玄關的東京駅。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51775271027/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51775271027_5cf4d25d39_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div>鑽入信用金庫旁的小巷,某民宅前庭的小箱型車中,發現貓咪的蹤影。看來這戶主人將他的車改造成貓咪食堂,雖然內裝有點雜亂,但三花喵吃的津津有味,那就足夠了。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776334398/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776334398_7af981f820_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>原來車底也有用餐空間,還有一隻白底虎斑,正啃著貌似熱狗類的食物,低頭專注,完全不在意我們的目光。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776334383/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776334383_9ba29334a1_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>我們的食堂就在巷底,以椀麵出名的「<a href="https://wankosoba.jp/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">そば処 東家 本店</a>」。椀麵的吃法是用小木碗重複添裝蕎麥麵,與炸醬麵及冷麵並稱盛岡三大麵,後兩者則從中國及朝鮮半島傳入日本,再改良成當地的獨特吃法。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776972705/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776972705_c8f63fa065_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776727929/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776727929_7143f71dca_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51775270917/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51775270917_d8533afca4_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>一入座,店員就將菜單翻到椀麵挑戰的那一頁,用流利的中文向我們介紹椀麵。我腦海瞬間浮出的畫面,就是漫畫《中華一番!》,阿昴為了延遲官差上法場所準備的一口麵。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776334363/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776334363_e9c64856d1_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776972695/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776972695_4ba34bfe31_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div>若是選擇挑戰椀麵,就會被帶到2樓包廂,凡是外國人挑戰就會有證明書,再贈送木製手形一枚。日本人挑戰就比較嚴苛,超過100碗以上才有手形,而目前的最高紀錄是男生500碗、女生570碗。</div><div><br /></div><div>雖然同行的另外兩位一直鼓吹我去挑戰,但我實在不想一個人被帶到小房間。最後我們自認能力不足,還是各自點了普通的一人份手打蕎麥麵,省一省荷包。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776087291/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776087291_99283aa912_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div><div>飽餐一頓離去,店外幾座貓咪石頭擺飾,令人莞爾。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776334338/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776334338_30142e2444_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div><div>在中津川中ノ橋旁的「<a href="https://www.iwagin-akarengakan.jp/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">岩手銀行赤煉瓦館(岩手銀行赤レンガ館)」</a>,華麗現身,也是出自於葛西萬司之手,於明治44年(1911年)竣工,盛岡銀行本店於此開業。之後由岩手殖産銀行收購,接著改名為岩手銀行,再由總行改為中ノ橋支店。平成6年(1994年)夾帶銀行的身分,列入國家重要文化財,直到平成24年(2012年)銀行支店退場,進行復原,4年後作為盛岡市的公共設施對外開放。</div><div><br /></div></div><div>葛西萬司這一代的建築師,活耀於明治及大正初期,是日本第一代海外深造、接受大量西方薰陶的種子,回國後將西方濃厚的巴洛克、維多利亞風格加以發揮,再打破傳統,創造出既自由又古典的建築風格。這類的建築在台灣並不少見,日治時代正在建設發展的台灣,正好提供他們盡情揮毫的空白畫布。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776972600/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776972600_eb315c8928_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>中津川上有上ノ橋、中ノ橋、下ノ橋,本來想沿著潺潺溪水走到下ノ橋,但發現時間不太夠,就直接從中ノ橋轉向前往盛岡城,連同「もりおか 啄木・賢治青春館」一併放棄。啄木與賢治分別是石川啄木與宮澤賢治,這兩位國民詩人都是出身於盛岡中學校的學長學弟(現今的岩手縣立盛岡第一高等學校),下回時間充裕再來好好認識一番。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776334298/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776334298_f14921f539_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div>再來是今天最重要的百名城戳章,盛岡城的戳章擺放在兩個位置,一處在「プラザおでって」內的「盛岡市観光文化交流センター」的2樓,另一處在<a href="https://www.morireki.jp/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">盛岡歷史文化館(もりおか歴史文化館)</a>的1樓。這兩個地點分別在中ノ橋的兩端,只是發懶不想爬上2樓,就來去盛岡歷史文化館吧。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51775270867/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51775270867_708410423f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div>又遇見碗子兄弟大集合,咦!?下排中間的老大蕎麥碗弟,頭頂著鹿的面具,該不會是隔壁秋田縣男鹿的生剝鬼!?還來才知道,原來是花巻市的春日流八幡鹿踊,八成是玩《桃太郎電鐵》太常被生剝鬼追著整個東北跑,一看與鹿有關,就聯想過去了。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776334233/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776334233_c2fa3f6fcc_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>盛岡歷史文化館樓上展示盛岡城與南部氏的相關事物,下層介紹盛岡的祭典與山車,還有案內所及紀念品區。我們很俗氣地走去案內所,蓋完章,就開始物色紀念品了。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51775270822/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51775270822_18d4dccf2e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>紀念品中,有許多與老虎相關的商品,這老虎名為「コトラコ」。在盛岡城開始築城後,城下町漸漸成形,築城期間,豐臣秀吉病逝、關原之戰及大坂之役爆發,盛岡藩的初代藩主南部利直很幸運都選對邊,站在德川家康這一方。在大坂夏之陣結束後,在返回途中到駿府領賞,德川家康賜與一對來自柬埔寨的老虎,以答謝南部利直大老遠從東北出陣。雄虎「乱菊丸」、雌虎「牡丹丸」就被飼養在盛岡城南面的虎屋敷內。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776087166/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776087166_169ae5f63e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div>剛剛經過的盛岡地方裁判所、岩手縣公會堂、盛岡歷史文化館,都屬於盛岡城的外曲輪,古時是南部氏一族與盛岡藩重臣屋敷的所在地。盛岡歷史文化館的區域是櫻庭氏屋敷,與緊鄰御城的鶴ヶ池,是南部氏的譜代家臣,自平安時代就跟隨著南部氏的始祖 - 南部光行,與藩內的三上氏、安芸氏、福士氏合稱為為南部四天王。</div><div><br /></div><div>曾為內堀的鶴ヶ池,變成了公園,池水映著深邃的墨綠,伴著枯枝與新芽,頗有意境。</div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776087096/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776087096_a22f4175c3_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>昔日內曲輪北側的下曲輪,如今成了「<a href="https://www.sakurayamajinja.jp/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">櫻山神社</a>」。神社創建於江戶時代中期,最初的位置在本丸東側的淡路丸。寛延2年(1749年)正值南部氏第26代當主- 南部信直逝世150年,當時盛岡藩第7代藩主(南部氏第33代)的南部利視,為了緬懷祖先遺德,建起神殿,供奉神靈,稱其為淡路丸大明神。之後,第10代藩主南部利敬將其改名為櫻山大明神,也將南部氏的始祖 - 南部光行供奉合祀。</div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776087056/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776087056_eb83bf2261_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776727709/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776727709_1714d94988_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><div>到了明治時期,新政府接收了盛岡城,櫻山大明神從淡路丸遷座到城外的妙泉寺山,等到聖壽禪寺的新社殿建好,再次遷座,社格升為縣社。</div><div><div><br /></div><div>櫻山大明神遷出後,盛岡城在廢藩置縣的政策下,建築與石垣漸漸毀壞,經過十餘年,在某個契機下,舊當主的南部一家將其買下,並在明治32年(1899年)的這個位置建起本殿、拝殿、神門,將櫻山大明神迎回,改稱「櫻山神社」。傳聞櫻山神社的神門,是用綱門的木材製作。</div></div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51775270727/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51775270727_e4ed9172ed_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51775270697/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51775270697_582c23cecf_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div><div>到了大正時期,供奉了盛岡藩初代藩主南部利直,以及第10代藩主南部利敬,這四柱先靈各自代表永續神、開拓神、安泰神、學問神,作為南部一族的神靈,永遠守護地方鄉土。</div><div><br /></div><div>介紹御祭神的解說牌上,標示盛岡藩主第幾代的數字之所以與資料不一樣,大概是把南部信直視為初代藩主,至於南部氏的第幾代標示,就沒有數字不同了。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776972420/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776972420_2096d2034f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div></div></div><div>正要走上前參拜時,拜殿前的賽錢箱被移開了,原來神職人員正在整理,還以為有人大膽地在偷錢呢。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776972375/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776972375_47a67d188b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div>總覺得要來看一看櫻山神社的例大祭,5月25日這天,南部氏當主會以武者的身分,騎馬率領隊伍,與御神輿一同繞行市區。但又與6月第2個星期六舉辦的「チャグチャグ馬コ」日期相當接近,約莫100匹馬的隊伍,披著華麗飾品,從鬼越蒼前神社走到八幡宮,光想像畫面就很震撼,很難排在一起,兩難。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776972360/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776972360_10b0a5bda8_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div><div>神社後方的烏帽子岩,也稱為兜岩。在櫻山神社尚未遷座來此之前,這裡有八幡宮,旁有一塊三角形的岩石,當時正值盛岡城興建之際,南部氏當主 - 南部利直下令將石頭挖出。</div></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776086946/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776086946_f1bc812310_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div>挖了許久,終於挖到底部,高度6.6m,眾人不禁驚嘆。南部利直認為這棵巨岩的出現,象徵此為城內祖神神域的徵兆,便視為南部藩盛岡的守護岩來供奉。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776971110/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776971110_4378158980_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div>其實盛岡市內散佈許多巨岩的景點,稍早的「石割櫻」就是,還有一個在「三石神社(三ツ石神社)」的「鬼の手形」,也相當具有代表性。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776086911/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776086911_7d8babea5c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>接著我們通過鳩門、瓦門,進入盛岡城的三之丸,尋找櫻花的身影。</div><div><br /></div><div>盛岡城的歷史與其他城郭相比,不算太長。在戰國時代後期,南部氏第26代當主 - 南部信直命令兒子南部利直,以不來方為據點,著手整地,開始規劃築城工事,這大概是剛才解說牌將南部信直視為盛岡初代藩主的原因。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776333953/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776333953_3794436ac1_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div>三之丸內沒有看見櫻花,繼續往上走,穿過昔日二之丸的車門,繼續尋找紅粉蹤跡。</div><div><br /></div><div><div>盛岡城的歷史雖然不太長,但南部氏的歷史就源遠流長了,一直追溯到平安時代後期的甲斐源氏,也就是源氏血脈的一族。甲斐源氏的第3代當主 - 源清光,當時沒有參與保元之及平治之亂的鬥爭,在甲斐國擴張勢力。在源氏戰敗之後,政敵平氏幾乎剿滅了源氏,可能為了避免受到牽連,其後裔皆以所居的甲府盆地地名作為姓氏。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776727494/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776727494_50d50b13e2_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776333873/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776333873_9861f3c1bf_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div></div></div><div><div>加賀美遠光為源清光之弟,後來收為養子,領地在甲斐國巨麻郡加賀美鄉。加賀美遠光的三男名為光行,因為移居同郡的南部鄉,改姓為南部光行,這便是南部氏的起始。</div><div><br /></div><div>之後,流放到伊豆的源賴朝,揭開復仇的舞台,展開一連串對抗平氏的源平合戰。南部光行先是在討伐大庭景親的石橋山之戰獲得戰功,授予甲斐國南部牧一職;接著在奧州合戰攻打藏匿源義經的奧州藤原氏,授予陸奧國糠部郡、岩手郡、閇伊郡、鹿角郡、津經郡等五郡。建久3年(1192年)在現在的三戶城附近,建了奧州南部氏最初的城郭 - 平良ヶ崎城,但是南部光行沒有住定居在平良ヶ崎城,而是離開奧州,跟著源賴朝上洛,居住於鐮倉。</div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776333863/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776333863_a3effca9f2_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776085826/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776085826_b994318a94_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div></div></div><div>南部光行有6個兒子,長子由側室所生,由正室所生的次男南部實光繼承當主,以三戶為根據地,成為宗家三戶南部氏,其他兄弟後來發展成一戶氏、四戶氏、七戶氏、八戶氏、九戶氏等支族,各據一方,時而合作,時而對抗。</div><div><br /></div><div>到了南北朝時代至室町時代中期,第13代當主 - 南部守行接到足利義滿的密令,勸降根城南部氏,三戶南部氏一族崛起,成為陸奧北部的霸主。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776971070/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776971070_41ea33da0d_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>盛岡城是一座連郭式的平山城,內曲輪呈階梯狀配置,由北到南主要是下曲輪、三之丸、二之丸、本丸、腰曲輪,東側有淡路丸,西側是榊山曲輪。貫穿二之丸的路徑兩側,枯樹高聳參天,過去是大書院,盡頭以名為渡雲橋的廊下橋,將大書院與本丸的中奧及大奧連結。</div><div><br /></div><div>盛岡城的築城,與四柱之一的南部信直有關,然而他本身也頗具爭議,在他之前的三戶南部氏較難考證,因為在他父親南部晴政繼承家督之前,家臣赤沼備中背叛,三戶城燒毀,南部氏許多記錄文書付之一炬,許多記錄在後世無從考證。在家族內部紛亂不已的情況下,天文10年(1541年)南部晴政繼承第24任當主之後,擊敗了叛亂的工藤氏,重建三戶城。</div><div><br /></div><div>南部晴政一直膝下無子,於是招贅堂兄的兒子石川信直,但是5年過後老來得子,石川信直遭廢嫡,由親生骨肉南部晴繼繼承家督,成為第25代當主。但是南部晴繼相當短命,父親過世的同一年,13歲的南部晴繼得到天花病死。傳聞他們都是遭到石川信直的謀害,也有一說,家臣九戶政實才是幕後密謀者。 </div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51775269417/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51775269417_b8374858ef_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div></div><div><br /><div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776726344/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776726344_6fa7b1aca8_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776971025/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776971025_a1d57f60da_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div></div></div></div></div><div>石川信直繼承第26代當主,成為南部信直,在小田原之戰加入豐臣秀吉的勢力。當時九戶城的九戶政實為了爭奪繼承而叛亂,引發宗族之間的內鬥。最後南部信直求助豐臣秀吉,獲得成為南部一族總領的認可,也獲得蒲生氏鄉與淺野長政的奧州仕置軍協助,平定叛亂。</div><div><br /></div><div>九戶政實之亂之後,豐臣秀吉命令蒲生氏鄉修築九戶城,南部信直也從三戶城移到九戶城,且將九戶城改名為福岡城。淺野長政及蒲生氏鄉也提出建議,原本作為居城的三戶城太北邊了,在獲得豐臣政權的許可後,南部信直於文祿元年(1592年)開始整備不來方這地方,準備另築新的居城。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51775269282/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51775269282_5fdce74705_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51775269262/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51775269262_13be81cdfb_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div></div></div><div><div>不來方是盛岡的古名,慶長3年(1598年)獲得築城許可,同一年,豐臣秀吉過世。隔年,慶長4年(1599年),盛岡城才動工第2年,南部信直就病逝於福岡城,這大概是一般沒有把南部信直視為盛岡藩初代藩主的原因。</div><div><br /></div><div>前面提到這裡有北上川、中津川、雫石川匯集,有著河川的天然防線,但由於洪水頻繁,多為沼澤地,到了慶長20年(1615年)才完成城牆石垣的部分,此時南部利直以「盛り上がり栄える岡」祈願,改名為「盛岡」。</div><div><br /></div><div><div>盛岡城直到寛永10年(1633年),交棒給下一任當主 - 南部重直才竣工,耗費40年。然而,南部利直已搬入江戶藩邸的櫻田屋敷,於前一年死去。在南部一族遷至盛岡城後,福岡城又再改名回九戶城。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776726299/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776726299_2318001222_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div></div><div><br /></div></div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776333723/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776333723_0d3feda24a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><div></div><div>一片槭樹枯枝之間,只剩下孤零零的台座,立在本丸中央。台座上本該是南部氏第42代當主,南部利祥的銅像。當時的盛岡藩已經廢止,最後的藩主是第15代南部利恭,之後封為伯爵。南部利恭的長子南部利祥,加入帝國陸軍,於明治38年(1905年)日俄戰爭的滿州井口嶺戰役中彈身亡,年僅23歲。</div><div><br /></div><div>為了紀念南部利祥中尉,明治41年(1908年)在本丸中央建了座南部利祥中尉騎馬的銅像,卻在昭和19年(1944年)金屬吃緊的二戰中,將銅像、台座銘板、玉垣鎖鏈等金屬捐出,然後一直到了今日,仍未修復原貌。</div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776086776/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776086776_414e7fdc40_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div><div>本丸上也沒有櫻花樹,有股萬念俱灰欲放棄的念頭。步上涼亭,這才發現櫻花樹都在腰曲輪上,難怪本丸沒甚麼人煙,大家都在腰曲輪賞花。雖然看上去還有很多花苞未開,不過聊勝於無,看到一整片還是很開心。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776333798/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776333798_1149875b3f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div><div><div>本丸東南隅的凌虛亭是昔日的天守閣,遽聞天守是座三階櫓,規模不大,畢竟盛岡城是座藩政時代竣工的城郭。築城期間,僅在慶長5年(1600年)爆發關原之戰,之後便進入江戶幕府的太平盛世。關原之戰期間,東北大名與北陸出羽諸氏紛紛站在東軍一方,南部利直成為最上義明的後援,在慶長出羽合戰中討伐西軍的上杉景勝。</div><div><br /></div><div>由於上杉景勝將白石城歸還給同為東軍的伊達政宗,兩方達成和睦。伊達政宗藉機煽動那些因為奧州仕置而不滿的岩崎一揆眾,岩崎一揆試圖奪回舊領地,與南部利直爆發衝突,最後遭到南部利直鎮壓擊退。在關原之戰結束後,伊達政宗因此事件,原本德川家康給予百萬石大名的承諾,遭到收回。 </div></div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776333768/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776333768_6515113347_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div></div></div></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776726259/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776726259_fd971cb60e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div><div>東側的御末門是本丸的主要出入口,下方台所屋敷已成了廣場。轉入淡路丸與腰曲輪,便走進櫻花樹下。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776972055/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776972055_13b6830f1d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div>本丸東側與淡路丸相隔的石垣,是盛岡城最古老的石垣。慶長20年(1615年)完成城牆石垣後,南部利直便從福岡城遷入盛岡城。然而,北上川的洪水氾濫,不斷導致石垣崩落,南部利直又移轉到高水寺城,對盛岡城進行另一階段的城牆修築。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776333678/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776333678_1aec4a9da5_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776333643/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776333643_1452e8b63b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776333523/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776333523_aa7841f315_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>淡路丸之所以取名淡路,早在南部氏修築盛岡城之前,這個地方是由福士氏支配。福士氏為南部氏的譜代家臣,於室町時代受南部氏之令,於此建立據點,北邊為慶善館,南邊為淡路館,兩者中間為日戶館。明徳2年(1391年),足利義滿將軍賜與不來方的名號,這三館成了沒有城牆的不來方城,福士政長成為初代城主。</div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51775270257/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51775270257_edc7bfb2ef_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776333468/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776333468_2dacfa63e9_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>腰曲輪的石垣上,留有類似齒輪的刻痕,當年工匠先在堅硬的花崗岩刻出矢穴,再將楔子塞入孔中,作為割石的基準線,利用敲擊將巨石分割。</div><div><br /></div><div>東北地區擁有得天獨厚的石材資源,盛岡城大量使用當地盛產的花崗岩,是東北地區少見有石垣的城郭,與福島縣白河市的小峰城、福島縣會津若松市的若松城,並列為東北三名城。即便是東北三名城,但若是放到東海、中部那些宏偉的城郭相比,這裡的石垣還是低矮許多,缺了少氣勢恢宏的壯闊感。 </div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51775270142/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51775270142_6cc51a39e4_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div>盛岡城築城期間,填埋了北上川與中津川之間的濕地,同步展開城下町的建設,上ノ橋、中ノ橋、下ノ橋在此時期架起,農業進步,五穀豐產。藩內財政也藉由開發白根金山與西道金山獲得穩定,在初代藩主 - 南部利直的帶領下,盛岡藩奠定良好的基礎,因此後世將南部利直供奉為四柱之一。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776971825/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776971825_6c537636a4_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div>從昔日的吹上門離開,走下吹上坂,從菜園通り,走回開運橋。在吹上坂坡道上,能夠看見一座從二之丸突出來的三角形曲輪,名為榊山曲輪。</div><div><br /></div><div>其實榊山曲輪是一座不為幕府所知的隱藏曲輪,在上繳給幕府的城郭修理願繪圖中,僅將二之丸西側石垣畫成微微突起的弧線。如此設計是因為,北上川河道修改整治之後,二之丸西側雖然免於水患之災,但也少了天然的防禦,即使這面石垣最高處有14m,是盛岡城內最高的一面,但南部氏自知此處為盛岡城的弱點所在。</div><div><br /></div><div>於是,在一次石垣普請之時,修築了榊山曲輪,三角的構造讓鐵砲手能對來犯敵人落入交織的射擊火網之中。為了避免東窗事發,榊山曲輪上建了榊山正一位稻荷社,架設百足橋供民眾參拜,要是幕府發現追究起來,也能以"和平利用"作為藉口來解釋。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776971740/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776971740_8a8ed479f8_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776726959/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776726959_8b7b8dbe0d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>如今,榊山正一位稻荷社已往北遷座到北山,名為<a href="http://kaiunjinja.jp/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">榊山稻荷神社</a>。榊山曲輪下方這顆巨大的櫸樹,從根部中段一分為三,然後再不斷開岔而出,好想看它枝繁葉茂的模樣。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51775269182/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51775269182_0cbeaa6fdf_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>斜陽下,岩手山淡淡的身影,好像要融入背景天色之中,有些許不真實感。世代更迭,人事遞嬗,四柱的最後一位是盛岡藩第10代藩主南部利敬。</div><div><br /></div><div>天明4年(1784年)前任藩主南部利正過世時,南部利敬年僅2歲,因為害怕被幕府改易或減俸,於是謊報官年為安永8年(1779年)出生,又受限於幕府的法制,17歲前無法為政,所以南部利正待在江戶,直到寬政7年(1795年)才初次回到盛岡藩內,正式成為盛岡藩藩主。</div><div><br /></div><div>此時正值天明大饑荒,寒害及火山噴發,導致東北農作物產量銳減,饑荒導致糧價飛漲,治安急遽惡化。超過10數年沒有藩主的盛岡藩,財政拮据、領地管理困難,人民感到非常不滿。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776333293/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="IMG_0461_stitch"><img alt="IMG_0461_stitch" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776333293_229fdd6ffd_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>藩內除了內憂之外,江戶幕府鎖國時期也有外患之擾。文化4年(1807年)一艘俄羅斯帝國軍艦入侵擇捉島內保灣,盛岡藩與弘前藩奉幕府之命前去迎戰。於是盛岡藩在箱館奉行的指揮下,設立警備蝦夷地的據點,也就是昨日搭乘函館山纜車(函館山ロープウェイ)前,在山麓駅旁看見的<a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/01/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">南部陣屋遺址</a>,這也是坡道命名為南部坂的原因。</div><div><br /></div><div>附帶一題,盛岡藩另一個據點則是在北海道室蘭,戒備在有噴火灣之稱的内浦灣東端。從箱館到室蘭的幌別,都是盛岡藩的守備範圍。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51775269932/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51775269932_9430a7178a_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>雖然盛岡藩的軍役負擔增加,南部利敬在大名的地位也稍稍上升,從10萬石增加到20萬石。另外,南部利敬設立了稽古場的藩校,訂定民事裁判的文化律,規畫城下町的消防組織,清除藩官的腐敗,重建了藩內財政。</div><div><br /></div><div>南部利敬是盛岡藩在位最久的藩主,享年39歲,扣除年幼不在藩內,畢生都致力在恢復藩內安定地位,讓盛岡藩未來能存續下去。</div><div><div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776726904/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776726904_0e33238a3c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div></div><div></div><div>幕末時期,第14代藩主南部利剛面臨選邊站的困境,藩內對於要加入舊幕府或維新政府出現對立的意見,最終在家老楢山佐渡的主導下,在戊辰戰爭中加入奧羽越列藩同盟,但在秋田戰爭中被打了回來,盛岡藩向維新政府投降,楢山佐渡切腹自盡。</div><div><br /></div><div>新政府軍進入盛岡城後,命令南部利剛隱居,其長子南部利恭接任第15任藩主,卻也是盛岡藩最後的藩主。盛岡藩領20萬石作為明治政府直轄地沒收,南部利恭遭到轉封白石,減封為13萬石。</div><div><div><br /></div><div></div><div>明治4年(1871年)廢藩置縣,盛岡藩先是改名為盛岡縣,隔年改為岩手縣。盛岡城在廢城令下作為存城處分,城郭建物歸陸軍省管轄及使用,之後許多建物老朽失修,政府無力維護,全數拆毀,之後由舊當主南部一家買回。<div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776971620/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776971620_d545537692_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div>回到盛岡駅,再次拿出JR Pass到櫃臺訂票。看了看到時間,到一關市也天黑了,就直接換了前往仙台的車票。也因為不停靠一之關駅,有了搭到秋田新幹線列車的機會,便請櫃臺票務將座位從隼號(はやぶさ)換到後方的小町號(こまち)。</div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776086326/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776086326_2b148abe76_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776971585/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776971585_2a8d9f27ab_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>新幹線月台在車站3樓,2座島式月台,2面4線,1樓是在來線,4座島式月台,4面8線。東北新幹線通車後,與新幹線平行的在來線路段,轉由岩手及青森的第三部門鐵路業者經營。於是,JR東日本的東北本線終點改為盛岡駅,盛岡駅到青森駅之間,以目時駅為界,分成<a href="https://igr.jp/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">IGR岩手銀河鐵道(IGRいわて銀河鉄道)</a>及<a href="http://aoimorirailway.com/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">青森鐵道(青い森鉄道)</a>。</div><div><br /></div><div>IGR岩手銀河鐵道的名字相當夢幻,來自宮澤賢治的小說《銀河鐵道之夜(銀河鉄道の夜)》,因為是原本的在來線,月台也在1樓,1座島式月台,1面2線。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776333178/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="IMG_0476_stitch"><img alt="IMG_0476_stitch" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776333178_c3968ee10f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776333203/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776333203_71f3395950_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div></div><div>14號線上停著的紅色倩影,就是專跑秋田新幹線的E6系列車,小町號(こまち),有美人之意,源自安平時代的美女「小野小町」。</div><div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776332473/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776332473_e73aec11b3_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776726799/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776726799_7ea5edee10_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776971465/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776971465_529aa8cf2f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>隔壁是沒有連結小町號的山彥號(やまびこ),幾乎站站停,等我們的隼+小町離開後,才會發車。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776333163/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776333163_b1fb7705e5_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div>不一會,我們要搭的隼號駛入,慢慢滑行到月台前端停妥,開啟車頭最前端的連接器,接著上演只有在盛岡駅才能看到畫面。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776726729/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776726729_1c7ee280dd_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51775269692/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51775269692_e60c361166_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776971365/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="IMG_0504_stitch"><img alt="IMG_0504_stitch" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776971365_cf87ed42a2_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div>從秋田來的小町號緊跟在後,緩緩駛入同側月台,在人員的引導下,與隼號對接。接下來兩輛新幹線嘴對嘴,併節運轉,一起開向東京。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776086031/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776086031_64da07c9b2_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div>E6系電車猩紅色搭配雲白色的車身圖裝,加上交界處的銀灰色線條,更顯紅的豔麗。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776971265/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="IMG_0518_stitch"><img alt="IMG_0518_stitch" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776971265_4c247f5050_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776971255/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776971255_f01a2f10e3_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776971230/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776971230_526d216828_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>普通車廂的座椅以黃褐色為主,內外的對比很很強烈。這時段的乘客也多了,拍照太受注目,趕緊入座,利用將近一小時的車程,小歇一會。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776333488/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776333488_a40fc66298_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51775269492/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51775269492_7457219948_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776726209/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776726209_3696b34116_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51776971170/in/album-72177720295502700/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51776971170_2870b272c0_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>天色在移動中漸暗,盛岡城的花況雖然不如預期,但有石割櫻與白雪皚皚的岩手山,半日的盛岡行程已心滿意足,下一站直達仙台,希望可以看到更佳的花況!</div><div><br /></div><div>2019.04<br /><br /><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/01/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本函館追櫻:五稜郭.弁天台場.函館山.新選組土方歲三</a><br /><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/05/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本宮城追櫻:藏王狐狸村.白石藏王駅</a></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/07/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本宮城追櫻:白石城.船岡城址公園.一目千本櫻</a></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/08/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本宮城追櫻:多賀城.松島</a></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/10/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本宮城追櫻:漫畫小鎮石卷.猫の島田代島住一晚</a></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/11/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本宮城追櫻:松島觀光船.北上展勝地公園</a></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/12/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本宮城追櫻:仙台夜櫻.夜景.米澤牛.烤牛舌「閣」</a></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2023/05/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本山形追櫻:寶珠山立石寺.山寺駅</a></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2023/07/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本宮城追櫻:仙台城.烤牛舌「伊達の牛たん本舗」</a></div>Laxichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04802970745091107114noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37782309.post-67041080518555618192022-01-25T00:13:00.021+08:002023-07-11T17:04:50.489+08:00日本函館追櫻:五稜郭.弁天台場.函館山.新選組土方歲三<div>行前看著櫻花最前線的預報,推敲著可能的日期,決定4月中下旬請個4天假,搭著虎航的早班機來到北海道函館,一路往南追櫻花。這樣的話,就算一開始就撲了個空,總是會在東北某處遇到盛開的花景。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51771756962/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51771756962_ed5fdc9909_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><span><a name='more'></a></span><div><br /></div><div>初次踏上北海道,就從日本最早對外通商的函館開始,也是6天賞櫻行程的第一站,降落函館空港前就能看見著名的函館山,讓人迫不及待降落後的行程。</div><div><br /></div><div>或許機上人數不多的關係,入境通關的速度很快,我們的背包也很快就出現在行李轉盤上。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51773466935/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51773466935_97729eeafc_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>通常自助旅行的第一件事,就是在機場先把市內移動的票券買好,到了市區車站再兌換事先預訂好了城際移動票券。航廈1樓入境大廳的綜合案內所買好<a href="http://www.hakobus.co.jp/card/card_2.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">バス・市電共通1日乗車券</a>,今天的移動,就靠這張了。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51773228949/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51773228949_fb483b5bce_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>離巴士發車時間還有一些時間,先把2樓出境大廳的紀念品區逛個一圈,再到3樓的送迎デッキ走走晃晃。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772826423/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772826423_0de7686936_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51771760397/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51771760397_7bb43a4e9f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>送迎デッキ的露天展望區很開闊,視野僅比一旁機場塔台略低一些。輕津海峽的藍,在跑道旁的樹梢上浮動,遠方隱約可見本州最北端下北半島的大間崎海岬。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772582476/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772582476_c5aa790e88_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51773228859/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51773228859_1b6be758a9_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>函館山下飄著一層薄霧,有點夢幻。機坪上滿是國內線的ANA班機,唯一不同的就是載著我們來的虎航班機,正在忙於整備,等等就要再飛回台灣,這也是目前函館機場唯一的國外航線。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51773466770/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51773466770_5d673c1288_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51773466855/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51773466855_e6455fc24c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>差不多時間,走去航廈門口搭車。機場離市區不遠,但鐵道及路面電車都沒有將路線拉到機場,聯外的大眾交通就靠巴士了。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51771760437/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51771760437_05f27961f1_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772582421/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772582421_628bebb9f2_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div>站牌旁有工作人員指引,像我們這種一副觀光客的呆臉,又揹著大背包,馬上就招手呼喚我門上車。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772577221/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772577221_1202e70f76_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>車窗隔熱紙外的景象,像是上了一層復古濾鏡,添了些LOMO風格。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51771760217/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51771760217_ccac490d00_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div>20分鐘的車程,抵達函館駅。大概是平常日的關係,站前不少巴士進出,倒是沒什麼人潮,有點不太習慣。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772582371/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772582371_48f8eaea5f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>大部分巴士的塗裝都蠻樸素的,只有這輛有著NHK吉祥物的巴士,毛茸茸棕色的Domo君(どーもくん),看上去就很討喜。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772826173/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772826173_ee7e66d1b9_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>既然來到函館駅,就順便進去兌換JR Pass。這次利用的是<a href="https://www.jreast.co.jp/multi/zh-CHT/pass/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">JR東北.南北海道鐵道路周遊券</a>,14天的期間內可任選5天使用,已經足夠涵蓋我們要去的地點,就算其中1天是規劃租車移動,算一算車資,還是划算。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51773466615/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51773466615_fb0ff91938_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772582316/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772582316_48ca9b744d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>JR旅行中心(Twinkle Plaza)不太繁忙,不巧擠入一團旅遊團,領隊手中拿著一疊護照衝了進來,慢了人家一步,多等了好一會。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51773466585/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51773466585_50b800eab4_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51773466550/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51773466550_433fab2788_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>雖然已經事先刷卡訂購,現場還要再填一次表單,檢查護照後,才能辦理兌換。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51773225774/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51773225774_cec04407b2_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>車站西口的門外,烏賊造型的可愛郵筒旁,有一座「舊函館駅所在地」的紀念碑。在現在的車站位置設置一座初代車站紀念碑,有點奇特,其實眼前的函館駅已經是第五代,而初代車站在北邊1.3km左右的位置。</div><div><br /></div><div>明治中期,臨著日本海且位於道央的小樽,發展突飛猛進,成了北海道海上貿易的集散地,迅速躍昇國際商業都市,開通了一條連結北海道中心的札幌的鐵路,成了北海道第一條且日本第三條的鐵路。</div><div><br /></div><div>位在道南的函館被一舉超越,迫切需要一條連往小樽的鐵路,屢次在帝國會議中提出,卻因為建設資金太大而停滯不前。終於在曾擔任過北海道廳長官的北垣國道男爵等人的強烈呼籲下,獲得批准。明治29年(1896年),平田文衛成立了函樽鐵道會社,明治33年(1900年)改名為北海道鐵道,明治35年(1902年)初代函館駅開業。</div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772577361/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772577361_1809a633f6_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><div><br /></div><div>初代函館駅預計建在若松町,因為當地居民以劃設鐵道造成交通不便為由,拒絕土地交涉,因而改建在海岸町。由於車站位置距離青函連絡船的東濱棧橋有段距離,再加上土地取得有所進展,2年後,明治37年(1904年),在若松町開設新的車站,成了第二代函館駅。海岸町的初代函館駅,則改名為龜田駅,龜田則取自函館所在的地理位置,渡島半島上的龜田半島。</div><div><br /></div><div>龜田駅後來因為大火而停止營業,再加上實在離函館駅太近,最終在明治44年(1911年)廢止。鐵道友之會在昭和37年(1962年)於龜田駅原址設置了紀念碑,上面的「0」象徵函館本線的起點,但是舊車站周遭轉為住宅用地,紀念碑幾番波折後,輾轉來到現在的位置。</div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51773224179/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51773224179_e116223091_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>車站對面的函館朝市到下午2點才打烊,趕緊來逛逛,買些海味。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772821193/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772821193_44ebc6e259_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>駅二市場內買了一包現烤魷魚絲,價格標示1,080円,老闆娘卻只收1,000円的未稅價,大概又是觀光客呆臉及一口破爛日文的關係。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51773461960/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51773461960_9e1f9ba69b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>市場中央是元祖いか釣堀,透明略白的烏賊在水槽中衝來衝去,看了一會,決定來體驗釣烏賊。櫃台付費,領了一支釣竿,老闆簡單教學要釣烏賊上半部鰭的部位,不能勾下半部的頭及觸鬚。</div><div><br /></div><div>心想,烏賊衝來衝去的,要是烏賊衝來咬鉤子,不就直接勾到頭了嗎,哪能控制要勾哪!?而且要是烏賊不理我,都釣不到的話,老闆會不會看不下去直接幫我撈一尾起來?就在東想西想之時,鉤子一入水,馬上就有烏賊自己衝過來,而且是鰭的部位上勾。一拉出水面,烏賊就四處噴水,而且滑不溜丟的,取不下來,直接拎去給老闆處理。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51773224049/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51773224049_5c7e630677_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>體驗一次就是一尾烏賊,老闆接手後,後台馬上俐落地切成刺身,接著大家一起分著品嚐。先前在福岡沒機會到河太郎享用的料理,今天終於體驗到了。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51773461915/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51773461915_6ba19034b3_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772821078/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772821078_741ab5c621_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>有了烏賊刺身當作前菜,接下來要來物色正餐了,畢竟不只午餐時段,連早餐都還沒吃就上了飛機。開啟Google Maps搜尋,找到這間招牌海膽丼的字體比店名還大,且評價頗高的<a href="https://www.uni-murakami.com/hakodate/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">村上海膽(うにむらかみ)</a>。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772582201/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772582201_e504a63fb2_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>中午的用餐時段僅到下午2點,店員示意還會接待用餐,帶我們入內候位。沒一會就入座,點了碗小份的海膽丼,雖然想點大碗,但荷包不允許。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772826028/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772826028_c351e26be1_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div>小碗量很快就完食,迫不及待前往賞五稜郭花第一站,五稜郭。接著搭上函館市電的路面電車,從函館駅前駅搭往五稜郭公園前駅。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772582181/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772582181_36166af237_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>來不及搭上藍白塗裝的9600型電車らっくる號,搭上後一輛的710型電車,是昭和35年(1960年代)出廠的,地板還是木板鋪設,內裝很有上個世紀的風格。</div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772825943/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772825943_262908d07d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51773228464/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51773228464_0a3249656d_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>710型電車是目前函館市電的主力車輛之一,也是開放企業申請全車廣告塗裝的車輛。我們搭的718號,塗裝是市中心一間洋菓子店ペイストリースナッフルス(Pastry Snaffle's)的廣告,橘紅與象牙黃與暗咖啡的色調,更顯復古。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51773466385/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51773466385_3ee1730e08_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>五稜郭公園前駅下車,漫步走向五稜郭,沿途不少雕像作品。這個熊與啄木鳥的作品是「ぢっど手を見る」,穿著吊帶褲的熊,坐在樹根上,專心看著自己的雙口,啄木鳥若無其事地在身後,繼續啄著樹木,這很像音樂盒上會出現的可愛畫面,應該是出自明治著名詩人石川啄木《一握の砂》的短歌「はたらけど はたらけど猶 わが生活 楽にならざり ぢつと手を見る」。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772582116/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772582116_9273daa98c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>一路看著不同雕像作品,一邊思考作品要傳遞的意義,因為實在不忍抬頭,因為一抬頭就發現,櫻花都還沒綻開,還躲在花苞裡。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51773228429/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51773228429_a033574446_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51773228374/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51773228374_d088078ef5_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772582046/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772582046_b06fb658a7_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>經過著名的小丑漢堡,打算回程再來光顧,結果忘了,就連六花亭也忘了,反正也才吃完海膽丼,也不太餓。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51771755337/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51771755337_e0aa8644c6_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><div>已經知道五稜郭的櫻花還沒盛開,既然來了,還是要登塔,至少登高望遠。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772582091/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772582091_2137483e25_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772821618/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772821618_59640397b0_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>雀躍地快步走進<a href="https://www.goryokaku-tower.co.jp/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">五稜郭塔(五稜郭タワー)</a>大廳,剛好沒什麼遊客,買了票就直接搭上電梯。比旅遊團快了一步,不然有得排隊等了。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772821568/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772821568_a8b4fb8cb3_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772581421/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772581421_ed13ddccb7_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51771759047/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51771759047_995e48f4d8_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div>電梯小姐開始講解五稜郭塔的基本介紹,有聽沒有很懂,只聽懂高度的部分。後來發現,原來五稜郭塔有分新舊兩座,曾短暫並存過。舊塔是在昭和39年(1964年)興建,當時為了紀念五稜郭建成100周年,豎立一座高度60m的四方型展望台。經過41年後,平成18年(2006年)由新的五角型展望台取代,高度98m,加上避雷針到107m。</div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51773462455/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51773462455_b0356dd784_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div>電梯上方的燈,乍看之下以為是野柳女王頭,轉個90度,這才領悟是函館的俯瞰圖。解說不知講到何處,燈一暗,綠光標示著五稜郭的位置,然後曝光度不夠,照片就糊掉了。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51771755747/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51771755747_0f9673abb4_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div>展望台有2層樓,最先來到上層,電梯門一開,便奔往窗邊,五稜郭櫻花花況開獎。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51773224674/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51773224674_642fbf652f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772821523/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772821523_d85ea23481_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>原先期待滿是紅粉的五芒星,結果是枯枝一片,充滿蕭瑟感。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772821553/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="IMG_9621_stitch"><img alt="IMG_9621_stitch" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772821553_ed2a65e2cc_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>鏡頭不夠廣,無法一鏡拍下五稜郭,回來接圖,就變形了。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772821508/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="IMG_9623_stitch"><img alt="IMG_9623_stitch" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772821508_0fe2017cbc_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51773462685/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="IMG_9678_stitch"><img alt="IMG_9678_stitch" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51773462685_a132087302_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>大面積又向外傾斜的落地窗,心裡會有點毛毛的,但很快就會忽略,因為展望真的超棒,360度的遼闊視野,非常值得上來展望台。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772581986/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772581986_694f1ecfed_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772821903/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772821903_ea3c30828f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772822008/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772822008_09c1b9314c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div></div><div>五稜郭的來由與美國馬修培里艦隊的黑船來航事件有關,那時候的函館還是以舊名箱館來稱呼。箱館的名稱可以追溯到室町時代的享德3年(1454年),與陸奧國南部氏對立而失利的豪族安東政季,渡過輕津海峽來到蝦夷地的渡島半島,在沿岸設立12座防禦據點,將麾下武將分派為館主,稱為道南十二館,不少和人(本州來的大和民族)移入,因此也稱為和人地。</div><div><br /></div><div>當時宇須岸的宇須岸館由河野政通擔任館主,位於現在函館市彌生町的元町公園,因為建築為方形,外觀像箱子,後來箱館就成了這裡的地名。</div><div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772822028/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772822028_aba7f94396_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51773466120/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51773466120_dae36f62f8_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div></div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772581711/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772581711_e3d764b6ab_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>蝦夷人(現今阿伊努人)在長祿元年(1457年)聯合起來向渡島半島的和人地宣戰,一番激戰後,安東氏被殺,十二館的其中10座被一一攻陷,最後由花澤館(現今檜山郡上之國町)館主蠣崎季繁扭轉態勢,鞏固了統治地位。蠣崎氏在蝦夷地的支配權先後受到豐臣秀吉與德川家康的認可,改名為松前,成為大名,分封為松前藩。</div><div><br /></div><div>黑船事件後,江戶幕府與美國所締結神奈川條約(日美和親條約),開放下田與箱館這兩座港口與美國通商,結束鎖國。隔年,安政3年(1856年)收回松前藩在箱館的領地,改為幕府直轄的天領,再次設立遠國奉行,稱為箱館奉行。</div><div>(第一次設立是在享和2年(1802年),幕府面對俄羅斯的南下政策,在宇須岸館設立蝦夷奉行,後來改稱松前奉行。)</div><div><br /></div><div>箱館奉行原本預計設在相同的位置,但靠近海灣,身後的箱館山又被劃為外國人的活動區域,登上山頂就能將奉行所一覽無遺,於是決定在龜田打造一座龜田役所土壘,也就是現在的五稜郭,並於元治元年(1864年)竣工。另外將弁天岬要塞化,打造弁天台場,以保護箱館港,防範船艦來襲。</div><div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772825478/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772825478_14a5782356_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772581886/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772581886_8dcf1ed669_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>在神山町與陣川町的交界邊緣,還有一個四稜郭,是由部分舊江戶幕府及新選組組成的蝦夷共和國所建造,用來抵禦維新政府軍力的堡壘。可惜前往四稜郭的大眾交通不便,公車班次少,站牌也離很遠,就沒有排入行程之中。</div><div><br /></div><div>至於從箱館改名為函館,則是在明治2年(1869年),贏得戰爭的維新新政府發佈太政官布告,將蝦夷地賦予北海道的名字,北蝦夷地改名為樺太(現為俄羅斯領土)。當時北海道開拓使長官東久世通禧,漢字造詣高深,將箱館改為函館。</div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772825488/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="IMG_9662_stitch"><img alt="IMG_9662_stitch" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772825488_f2ba33ed9c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772825453/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="IMG_9667_stitch"><img alt="IMG_9667_stitch" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772825453_ce51e3b5be_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div></div></div><div>展望台東邊的這個角落,放了一幅動畫《薄櫻鬼》的立牌,三位角色是藤堂平助、土方歲三、風間千景(虛構人物)。《薄櫻鬼》是一部非常乙女向的動畫,以幕末時期新選組為背景的改編故事,劇中的武士個個都華麗帥氣,雖然女主角很讓人出戲,還是讓我看的入迷。 </div><div><br /></div><div>一般所認識的新選組,隊員穿著淺藍色羽織,衣袖印有白色山形的圖案,隊旗上有紅底白色的誠字,於幕末時期在京都外圍對付反幕府人士的武裝份子。我最先認識的新選組是在漫畫《城市風雲兒》的天才劍士沖田總司,然後是《神劍闖江湖》中使用牙突的齋藤一,頂多也稍微提到了戊辰戰爭中的鳥羽伏見之戰,壓根與北海道函館沒辦法連結在一起。</div><div><br /></div><div>一直到看完《薄櫻鬼》,才對新選組的後期有所認識,原來函館是新選組殘存勢力的最後根據地。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772825743/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772825743_6472cb2a39_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>接下來,就來去會一會領導最後殘存勢力的新選組副長,土方歲三。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772825768/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772825768_da3ed7d0f9_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><div>江戶幕府是日本歷史上第三個幕府,從慶長8年(1603年)關原之戰後由德川家康開啟,結束於第15代將軍德川慶喜於慶應3年(1867年)的大政奉還,天皇頒佈王政復古大號令,廢除幕府。隔年,瓦解後的舊幕府勢力與明治新政府爆發名為戊辰戰爭的內戰。站在幕府一方的新選組在鳥羽伏見戰役挫敗後,局長近藤勇被斬首示眾,土方歲三率領殘存的隊員,隨著幕府軍從大阪撤回江戶。</div><div><br /></div><div>接著,新政府軍東征,幕府方的勝海舟遊說下,江戶無血開城,反抗的幕府勢力往東北轉進,屢敗屢戰,最後來到蝦夷地。舊幕府海軍奉行榎本武揚與土方歲三為首的新選組,成立名為蝦夷共和國的政權,對抗明治政府。箱館,就成了土方歲三與新選組的最後舞台。</div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51771755422/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51771755422_22c082c472_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>話說,背對著落地窗透空的景象,這樣坐不會感到心裡癢癢毛毛的嗎!?</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51773462155/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51773462155_3d1c9d1c92_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div></div></div><div>展望台中間說著五稜郭的起始與箱館戰役的經過,每一段故事各有一個小展示框,文字描述外,還有四格漫畫,再搭配一個小模型場景,挺有趣的。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772581756/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772581756_c515448a85_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772581656/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772581656_f0392c54b9_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772581731/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772581731_3aea35f3bc_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772825533/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772825533_8683519325_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div></div></div></div></div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772825613/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772825613_e4bfda9ff3_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>在箱館總攻擊的小模型,這位戴著護額、騎馬衝鋒的男人,應該就是土方歲三。當時的他,不只率領新選組,更是舊幕府軍陸軍奉行並(等同於陸軍副司令),從京都外圍非正規軍的組織,到委以重任,但也彰顯舊幕府的勢力已經日暮途窮了。 </div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51773466030/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51773466030_76a1d70261_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51773466080/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51773466080_8c0e4b5212_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772581821/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772581821_b79a077d98_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51773466155/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51773466155_a2c0cdbfc7_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><div>通往展望台下層的階梯旁,擺有五稜郭與五稜郭塔的模型。若是用Google Maps打開衛星圖層,還能發現從高空俯視塔頂,也有五角形與五芒星的圖案。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51773224234/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51773224234_ea7b620b18_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51771755452/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51771755452_e2968a9493_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div></div></div><div><div>移動到展望台下層,也是大面積的落地窗,中間倒是有了販售餐飲及紀念品的小舖。</div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772577906/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772577906_68852fb622_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772821778/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="IMG_9699_stitch"><img alt="IMG_9699_stitch" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772821778_35ffe12ddf_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div></div><div><div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772577776/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772577776_c3cff9bb15_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div>琳瑯滿目的五稜郭限定商品之外,土方歲三自有一區商品小物,上面追著Q版土方君的人物,應該就是榎本武揚了。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51771755782/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51771755782_96653204a5_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>每座塔不免俗要來個鏤空的觀景窗,站在上面,直接俯瞰地面,心裡還是會有一點慌。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51771755842/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51771755842_9caf89a13f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><div></div><div>回到一樓中庭,一偶擺著雙方陣營的四斤山砲及30磅砲,代表明治新政府軍的薩長先遣隊及舊幕府軍的海軍傳習士官隊。</div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772821963/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772821963_1cddbf3989_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div>砲後方是英姿帥氣的土方歲三銅像,一旁是榎本武揚,以及武田斐三郎。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772581541/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772581541_f7d3e69877_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div></div><div><div>追悼在箱館戰爭中奉獻生命而犧牲的供養塔,就在五稜郭塔北面出口外。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51773465640/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51773465640_3175c08f3c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>雖然沒有盛開的櫻花,還是要來蓋百名城的戳章,才不枉此行。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51771758962/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51771758962_71e2a2654a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>用來保護箱館奉行的龜田役所土壘,是由鑽研西洋城郭及軍事機械的武田斐三郎所設計,為了在戰爭中有效展開槍炮攻擊,將城塞設計為星形要塞。</div><div><br /></div><div>在長野縣佐久市的龍岡城也是設計成星形的城郭,但龍岡城的存在期間很短,元治元年(1864年)開始築城,慶應2年(1866年)竣工,明治政府上台後,龍岡藩廢藩,明治5年(1872年)建物拆除。昭和初年由當地居民將其修復,現在成了佐久市立田口小學用地。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51773227589/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51773227589_1003d1047b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div>掌控道南蝦夷地的松前藩,在戊辰戰爭的東北戰役中,加入挺幕府的奧羽越列藩同盟,但在藩內勤王派的扭轉下,轉為加入明治新政府。在會津戰役失利後,土方歲三在仙台加入榎本武揚的舊幕府海軍,從仙台折濱(現今石卷市折濱)出港,前往蝦夷地,佔領五稜郭、箱館裁判所及松前城,成立反抗政權,蝦夷共和國,成為亞洲第一個共和國。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772822193/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772822193_a48abb8455_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div>五稜郭築城100周年紀念的顯彰碑,武田斐三郎的頭已經被摸的發光,不知道是不是建築系的學生來摸的?還是大家想祈願與他一樣聰明?</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772825033/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772825033_b8b78bba09_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>箱館奉行所位在五稜郭的正中央,蝦夷共和國的箱館政權建立後,隨即舉辦投票,榎本武揚高票出任箱館政權第一任總裁,松平太郎由幕府陸軍奉行並出任副總裁,大鳥圭介出任陸軍奉行,土方歲三出任陸軍奉行並。</div><div><br /></div><div>明治新政府得知箱館被攻占後,隨之在青森集結兵力,準備隔年融雪之時,討伐頑固的舊幕府軍。明治2年(1869年)3月,新政府軍渡海,登陸乙部,從江差兵分三路攻打二股口、木古內、松前,大勢已去的舊幕府軍退入箱館,死守最後據點。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51773465460/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51773465460_cbcca6c3bc_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51773227419/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51773227419_b27805bd6d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div>5月,新政府軍的箱館總攻擊開始,海陸兩方向箱館壓進。舊幕府軍的海上防線被突破,陸上四稜郭、權現台場、桔梗野台場等要塞一一淪陷,只能退回五稜郭內,南面也只剩下千代ヶ岡陣屋及弁天台場。</div><div><br /></div><div>發動箱館總攻擊的隔日,新政府軍便向蝦夷共和國勸降,榎本武揚斷然拒絕,新政府軍的海軍持續從箱館港對五稜郭進行威嚇砲擊,並擊中奉行所,逃兵接二連三,舊幕府軍崩潰在即。最終,在弁天台場的新選組因彈盡援絕而投降,千代ヶ岡陣屋也失守,舊幕府軍開城投降。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772824918/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772824918_59368fd2dd_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div>立牌上的人像就是榎本武揚,投降之時,他準備切腹自殺,替舊幕府士兵助命嘆願,承擔發動戰爭之罪,想找大塚霍之丞為他介錯,卻被阻止。之後,榎本武揚與大鳥圭介等人移送東京入獄,於明治5年(1872年)特赦出獄,任官職為新政府效力。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772824813/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772824813_0943cfe851_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>奉行所對面的附屬建物是過去用作兵糧庫的土藏與倉庫的板庫,百名城戳章就擺在板庫中,現在裡面擺滿販售的紀念品。蓋完章,順便買支霜淇淋,以表我沒看到櫻花內心的寒冷。</div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772824843/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772824843_628a205d4d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div>五稜郭在函館空港的起落航線旁,不時有國內線的班機飛過,但手腳動作太慢,相機掏出來後,飛機已飛離五稜郭塔的背景外。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51771758622/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51771758622_fc73d5a3b1_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51773463045/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51773463045_cb517af780_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51771756267/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51771756267_7ea820b0d8_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>箱館政權落幕,蝦夷共和國亡國,幕末時代徹底終結,由明治政府陸軍省接管五稜郭。當時為了建設北海道,拆了箱館奉行所,將建材運至札幌建造開拓使本廳舍(實際上用於他處)。沒了奉行所的五稜郭,成了陸軍的練兵場,平民百姓不得而入。</div><div><br /></div><div>除了一位愛知縣的商人,中川嘉兵衛,販售天然冰與西洋糖果。當時的天然冰都是從美國波士頓進口,非常昂貴,他在傳教士的指引下,先後嘗試在國內製作天然冰,但在富士山腳下及北海道北斗市的有川都失敗了,最後相中五稜郭,獲得陸軍省的許可,利用結冰的外堀製作天然冰,並以函館冰的名稱販售,也對當時非常依賴進口的醫療用冰有相當大的幫助。</div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51773462975/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51773462975_f26fccb413_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div>一直到了大正3年(1914年),五稜郭才作為公園對一般民眾開放。昭和58年(1983年)對奉行館遺構進行調查,平成18年(2006年)進行復元工事,平成22年(2010年)箱館奉行所重建完成,重新開放。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51771756177/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51771756177_b35ce05254_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>下一個景點前,先在新川町站下車,在到今晚預訂的膠囊旅館寄放行李。搭到的8000型電車是8002べいこく號,函館米穀株式會社的全車廣告塗裝,鮮豔活潑的配色,可惜來不及拍側面,車就跑了。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51773224854/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51773224854_ba21929f28_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>今晚下塌在<a href="https://capsule-hakodate.jp/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">カプセルホテル函館 (Capsule Hotel Hakodate)</a>,櫃檯大廳的交誼空間相當大,鋪上被毯的暖桌看上去就讓人可以好好放鬆,而且飲料零食都很便宜,晚上再來好好利用。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51773462765/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51773462765_08d614fafe_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772580896/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772580896_1ddf38eb78_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div></div><div><div>櫃檯前還有書法體驗,一旁擺有許多字卡,給外國遊客揮毫臨摹用,然後大作就會展示在櫃台後方。突然瞄到牆上有兩岸敏感字眼,隨口問了接待人員,中國遊客看到不會抗議嗎,他則是笑笑回答:不代表本旅店的立場~</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772824778/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772824778_d5690406ff_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51773462905/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51773462905_7c2401d65f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>接下來,往函館山腳下移動,搭纜車上函館山之前,先來去函館船塢前駅,另一個與新選組有關的地方。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51771758462/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51771758462_19d6959d2a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>全盛時期的函館市電有12個系統,嚴格來說是5個系統,6之後為臨時及夜間增發的編號。現在5個系通中,只剩下紅色的2系統與藍色的5系統,其中分為本線 / 湯之川線 / 寶來.谷地頭線 / 大森線。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772822633/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772822633_8320162f06_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div></div><div><div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772580731/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772580731_ab96e6859d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>從湯之川駅到十字街駅之間都路線重疊,一個沒注意,搭到往谷地頭的車,在十字街駅換乘。這輛1990年代出廠的3000型電車,3003是專賣羊羹與和菓子的五勝手屋本舗廣告塗裝。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772580726/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772580726_05ae62ca01_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>十字街駅的候車棚前方,居然有設置時鐘,真的非常重視時間。</div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772580636/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772580636_cbe0cab11a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>十字街駅前方的分歧路,過去靠人工監控車輛,以手動方式切換交通信號的操車塔,從昭和9年(1934年)便肩負起交通安全的重責大任,至今成了日本最古老的操車塔。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51773465060/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51773465060_fe350b22a6_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>十字街駅的另一頭,有間北海道坂本龍馬紀念館,空地上還有座坂本龍馬的銅像。印象中的影像一直停留在江口洋介所詮釋的版本,沒有印象劇情有提到坂本龍馬來過北海道,就更別說函館了。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51773227054/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51773227054_69213aea64_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div>對向來了一輛8000型電車,8001電車的廣告塗裝是函館カールレイモン(Carl Raymon),市內一間裝賣香腸火腿的商店。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772824438/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772824438_4140700367_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772578601/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772578601_2eb4d308a7_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>我們搭著710型電車的720千秋庵總本家號,來到路線端點的函館どつく前駅。最初的站名與附近的自弁天台場有關,取名弁天町停留場,後來以此地的造船廠為名,東北最大的函館どつく株式會社作為站名。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51771756562/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51771756562_0d938e5760_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51773463285/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51773463285_894589d51f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><div><br /></div><div>往北邊走一小段路,是與五稜郭同期決定建造的弁天台場。這作要塞也是由武田斐三郎設計,在弁天岬的海面堆造石牆,打造一座不等邊的六角型砲陣地。台場的土石直接取自函館山,重要結構則從大阪運來備前御影石(花崗岩)建造。</div><div><br /></div><div>弁天台場於文久3年(1863年)竣工,面積約五稜郭的6分之1,六面有11m高的石牆圍繞,上面架滿砲塔,本來是用來防禦箱館港,防範外國船艦來襲,卻是在箱館戰役中登場。戰後同樣由陸軍省管理,最終在明治30年(1897年)因港口整修而拆除,如今只剩一支立柱作為紀念。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772578806/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772578806_6de7e443e0_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div>箱館總攻擊爆發,舊幕府軍在海上不敵新政府軍,為了封鎖箱館灣海面而緊急拉設的鋼索,也遭到破壞,舊幕府軍在箱館灣海戰中失利,船員們上岸躲入弁天台場,與舊幕府陸軍及新選組會合。</div><div><br /></div><div>在新政府軍強勢壓境下,防線僅剩五稜郭、千代ヶ岡陣屋、弁天台場。另一方面,新政府軍的陸軍參謀黑田清隆,從箱館山裏側的險峻懸崖發動奇襲,佔領箱館山後,沿山脊對弁天台場的大後方發動攻勢,守備弁天台場的新選組伍長島田魁遭到包圍,對外聯繫遭到切斷,孤立無援。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51773463175/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51773463175_565cc05a22_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div>拒絕新政府軍勸降的榎本武揚決定在五稜鍋內籠城,土方歲三不願附和苟且的籠城戰術,率領不到50人的新選組殘餘隊士,欲前往弁天台場突圍相救,中途遭遇一本木關口的新政府軍,混戰中腹部中彈落馬,享年35歲。</div><div><br /></div><div>土方歲三戰死後,由相馬主計接手成了新選組最後的隊長與局長,率領弁天台場的新選組向新政府軍投降,新選組也在歷史上畫下句點。活下來的新選組隊士,怕遭到新政府或仇家的報復,大多改名換姓,鮮少提起自己過去的身份。現在函館どつく前駅旁邊的兒童公園,設立一支「新選組最後の地」的紀念碑。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772822468/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772822468_b23b6b00e5_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div></div><div><div>回到十字街駅,離夜幕降下還有一段時間,先來去港邊走走。</div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772580511/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772580511_bd4b86c15a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>在Google Maps上看到一個特別的景點「日本最古のコンクリート電柱」,號稱日本最古老的混凝土電線桿,令人感到相當好奇,也離前去金森紅磚倉庫的路線不遠,決定來去瞧瞧。</div><div><br /></div><div>電線桿在這棟名為ルネッサンス末広的大樓前,是在大正12年(1923年)所設置,當時的電線桿還是木製的圓柱,由為了與北海道拓殖銀行函館分店的鋼筋混凝土相匹配,於是北海道拓殖銀行函館分店提供資金給函館水電株式會社來特別改造,打造一支稜型的混凝土電線桿,成了日本第一支混凝土電線桿,而且一般混凝土的使用壽命設計為50~60年,這支電線桿則已經服役90多年,頗有意思的。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772580451/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772580451_47bf350f8c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>一路上有許多有趣的建築,和洋合併,各有風騷。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51773226799/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51773226799_b0201671c3_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div><div>港邊最顯著的建築物,就是「函館西波止場」及「金森紅磚倉庫(金森赤レンガ倉庫)」。箱館港在江戶幕府與美國簽訂神奈川條約後開港,大分縣出身的渡邊熊四郎從長崎縣來到箱館,不久開了一間金森洋物店,且將洋物店的屋號定為森屋。</div><div><br /></div><div>適逢共同運輸會社與郵便汽船三菱會社合併,成立日本郵船會社,對於閒置的倉庫及土地需求減少,渡邊熊四郎便向日本郵船會社買下這些現成的倉庫,開始經營倉儲業務。明治23年(1890年),海運業務蓬勃發展,原本需求不振的倉儲轉為興盛,便增設倉庫,並以磚瓦改建。</div></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772580311/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772580311_3084d9bcd7_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>在渡邊熊四郎的經營下,全盛時期,倉庫多達21間,另外還設立了函館麥酒釀造所及函館啤酒廳。明治40年(1907年),渡邊熊四郎離世,紅磚倉庫一度遭遇祝融又快速重建,但仍不敵大環境的衝擊,在昭和後期運輸型態的改變、漁業規模縮小等等衝擊下,倉庫業不得不逐漸縮小規模。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772824108/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="IMG_9828_stitch"><img alt="IMG_9828_stitch" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772824108_cefeaf3786_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>紅磚倉庫上的標誌是代表曲尺的﹁,以及森字,是金森洋物店開業時的商標。如今,轉型後的倉庫成了遊客相繼走訪的景點之一,喜歡逛街的人,會逛得很開心;不採買的遊客也能一窺函館海運興盛時期的面貌,一睹年代悠久的風華。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51773464685/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51773464685_08563af7d5_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div><div>再往前走一點是「北海道第一歩の地碑」,以船錨與白棕熊作為代表,象徵開拓北海道的精神。這紀念碑是昭和43年(1968年)為了紀念開道100周年所建,如今又過了50年,真是感嘆歲月如梭。</div><div><br /></div><div>這裡也是最先作為進出北海道的門戶,連接北海道與本州的青函航線,則是從一旁的「東濱棧橋」登上接駁小船。一等與二等艙的旅客登上小蒸汽船,三等艙的旅客登上駁船,接駁到外海換乘青函連絡船。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51773464645/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51773464645_7c7d991c1f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>幾年之後,上野至青森、青森至弘前的鐵道相繼開通,青函航線的客貨運量急遽增加。北海道鐵道在明治37年(1904年)終於開通往小樽的鐵道,第二代函館駅也在同年開業。需求量大增之下,在函館駅西南邊架起新的棧橋,名為函館棧橋,且將鐵道繼續延伸,設立函館棧橋駅,青函連絡船改停於此,東濱棧橋轉為漁業船隻使用。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51771757882/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51771757882_27d00f88f5_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>我們來此正逢碼頭改良工程,東濱棧橋被暫時拆除,只留下橋下的基樁。棧橋前方,則有一支「函館市道路元標」的石樁。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51773226599/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51773226599_1304ec651f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><div>「函館西波止場」旁的空地上,這座名為「赤い靴」的小女孩雕像,是源自童謠『赤い靴』,而童謠據說取自真實故事。故事中的きみちゃん是未婚母親かよ的私生女,在當時民風保守的社會是不能被接受的,所以母親かよ帶著3歲的きみちゃん加入北海道開拓團,離開自己的故鄉。當時他們從靜岡縣來到北海道,踏上的第一個地點就是函館的東濱棧橋。</div><div><br /></div><div>母親かよ在函館認識了鈴木志郎,決定一同前去留壽都村的農場開拓定居。由於眼前是未知的險惡環境,於是母親かよ將體弱多病的きみちゃん託付給函館教會的美國傳教士夫婦。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51771757847/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51771757847_974ce0de1b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>幾年後,傳教士夫婦收到返國的指示,那時的きみちゃん已患了不治之症肺結核,無法跟著在海上長途旅行,所以被迫將她留在東京麻布十番鳥居坂教會的孤兒院。與病魔抗爭3年後,きみちゃん結束短暫9年的生命。</div><div><br /></div><div>母親かよ到留壽都村2年後,入植移居失敗,與鈴木志郎,還有他們所生的女兒,一起到了札幌,遇到當時在報社工作的野口雨情,也就是創作『赤い靴』詩詞的作詞家。60多年後,母親かよ離世前,留下一句「きみちゃん,ごめんね」,但她始終都不知道きみちゃん早已不在人間。 </div><div><br /></div><div>如今,在橫濱、靜岡市、東京都港區、留壽都、小樽、青森鰺澤町,這些與故事有關的地點,都有「赤い靴」的銅像,有的是母子像,有的是親子三人像。</div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51771757787/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51771757787_2cedc2522a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>為了早點上山看夜景,然後下山泡個錢湯,再次路過小丑漢堡而不入。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51771757757/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51771757757_8564a1607b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>我們沿著二十間坂走向纜車站,坡道頗陡,有點喘,不時回頭望向市區,就又想爬得更高晀望,就又再向前邁出腳步。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51773464510/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51773464510_0819662871_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div>二十間坂有20間長,1間等於1.81公尺,總常約為36.2公尺。此外,早期坡道兩旁有許多建築職人及工匠居住,且綠樹茂盛,也稱為大工町坂及綠坂。由於函館很常發生千餘戶民房燒毀的大火,於是二十間坂與銀座通り指定為甲種火防線,道路寬敞,道路兩側皆整頓為防火建築。</div><div><br /></div><div>因為道路較其他坡道來的寬廣,明治33年(1900年),俄羅斯趁著中國義和團之亂,藉機出兵占領中國東北全境,日俄戰爭爆發前,函館山要塞所武裝的大砲,都是從二十間坂搬運。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51773226424/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51773226424_ce5bec8bbc_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><div>巧遇一隻黑貓,在樹旁跳上跳下,自得其樂。黑貓總是特別難拍,不是對不到焦,就是測光不夠模糊一團。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51773225329/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51773225329_fe85dabee5_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><div>天色漸暗,華燈初上,二十間坂的下方是開港通り,一路通到函館駅。後方的蝦夷松山、雁皮山、三森山,感覺近在咫尺。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51773225594/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51773225594_3870c75770_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div>二十間坂上方盡頭,聳立著大正4年(1915年)建立的東本願寺函館別院,是日本最古老的鋼筋混凝土寺院。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772579991/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772579991_d8d2cd4201_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51773225539/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51773225539_502fd64549_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>除了松前藩之外,另一個對蝦夷地的開發有功且受到德川家康認可的,是陸奧國的盛岡藩,藩主為南部氏一族,也稱為南部藩。寛政11年(1799年),江戶幕府第11代大將軍德川家齊命令盛岡藩藩主,於此設立警備蝦夷地的陣屋。</div><div><br /></div><div>從盡頭橫切過來與二十間坂平行的坡道,就以陣屋命名為南部坂,盡頭就是<a href="https://334.co.jp/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">函館山纜車(函館山ロープウェイ)</a>的山麓駅,陣屋遺址則作為停車場使用。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51771756807/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51771756807_613eeb94cf_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div>至於盛岡藩,參加了奧羽越列藩同盟,成了支持江戶幕府的一方,戰敗投降後,轉封白石城,成為白石藩。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772579126/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772579126_795f836bf6_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51773463555/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51773463555_2e6e4a2fed_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div></div><div>函館山的海拔不高,僅334m,走上去不是不行,就是迫不及待搭纜車上去看夜景。<div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51773225414/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51773225414_19ddbd68bf_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772579081/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772579081_28dcedf09b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>纜車站外沒什麼人,本以為沒人潮,站內倒是不少人已經在排隊。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51773463355/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51773463355_d1b27fb9ee_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772579046/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772579046_5dc4c2e943_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>櫃台有山頂的即時畫面,上面天還亮著,等我們排到上山,大概天色已暗。</div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51773463465/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51773463465_f35d8d9b15_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772822738/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772822738_09a8475fb0_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>廣播電台「FMいるか」的播放間就在山麓駅1樓,日本第一個社區廣播電台。放送室明淨的玻璃上方,有著鯨魚甩尾的電台Logo,一旁是兩幅今昔對比的函館港景象,黑白的那幅不知是哪個年代,照片中函館駅的周遭都還一片未開發的樣貌。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772579071/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772579071_2f82939c9a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772823793/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772823793_2041c03121_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>間隔5分鐘一班纜車,排隊隊伍消化很快,上山的時間更快,3分鐘就抵達山頂駅。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51773464350/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51773464350_27f4c0036c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51773226294/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51773226294_74f3761815_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>函館山在昭和21年(1946年)才對一般民眾開放,在那之前,函館山是軍事機密要地。要塞建設從明治31年(1898年)開始,假想敵為對岸的俄羅斯,於是將原本海拔348m的山頂,削築成現在的334m,拍照及描繪都被嚴格限制,甚至在地圖上無法找到。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51773226224/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51773226224_9633def125_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772579881/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772579881_b1f31c836f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>日俄戰爭後,為了強化整個輕津海峽的防禦,更將北面北海道的汐首岬及白神岬,南面青森的大間岬及龍飛岬,連同函館要塞都整編成輕津要塞。二戰期間,美軍77師306旅在昭和20年(1945年)10月登陸函館,控制函館山,將要塞摧毀。現在山頂駅的位置,就是當年第一砲台的所在地。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772579806/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772579806_b921557e51_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>觀景台某面牆上有面伊能忠敬記念碑,他是日本第一張全國地圖《大日本沿海輿地全圖》的地圖測繪家,在寬政12年(1800年)以箱館山為基點,以徒步行走的方式,白日沿著海岸而行,夜晚進行天文觀測,對蝦夷地進行詳細的測量。</div><div>(天色暗了,氣溫低了,手不爭氣震了,相片就模糊了。)</div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51773464120/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51773464120_0eabc39b56_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>本來想在山頂的餐廳用餐,評估一下時間,有點趕,只能作罷。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772579791/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772579791_84c5f0ae84_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51773464220/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51773464220_858810f190_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772827863/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="201904花喵_190530_0060"><img alt="201904花喵_190530_0060" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772827863_4ebb2c6fb9_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div></div></div><div>天色漸漸轉暗,人群一批批湧入,紛紛來欣賞有著百萬夜景名號的景色。除此之外,函館山的夜景還與神戶摩耶山、長崎稻佐山,並列日本三大夜景,也曾是世界三大夜景之一。</div><div>(之後又票選出新三大夜景,長崎稻佐山仍在榜上,札幌藻岩山與北九州皿倉山幾下另外兩名,躍登榜上。)</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772823713/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="IMG_9883_stitch"><img alt="IMG_9883_stitch" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772823713_a2b224c3ba_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772823603/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="IMG_9896_stitch"><img alt="IMG_9896_stitch" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772823603_61bb921a43_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>黃昏時分的景色相當迷人,整個成市渲染著溫暖的顏色,漸漸的,深藍的天幕披上深黑色彩,絢麗光點讓人看得如癡如醉。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772579326/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="IMG_9906_stitch"><img alt="IMG_9906_stitch" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772579326_48881a25c7_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772823568/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772823568_6d798795fa_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772823543/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772823543_ba7289217f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>最特別的是,函館山是100萬年前海底火山噴發形成的火山島,在海流沖刷與風雨削切下,泥沙堆積形成沙洲,在5000年前與龜田半島相連,變成一座陸連島。如今這片夾在兩座海灣的沙洲,成了城市的中心地帶,閃耀著璀璨光芒。</div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772579681/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="IMG_9926_stitch"><img alt="IMG_9926_stitch" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772579681_648467ea44_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><div>在這百萬夜景的燈火中,有個「ハート」都市傳說,如果能在夜景中找到「心」,情侶就能幸福。這個心不是愛心的形狀,是片假名ハート,由遠而近排列。研究了好一會,一直找不出ト在哪裡,不過能來到這裡看夜景,就已經覺得很幸福了!</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772823473/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772823473_d235d6356e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>回到山下,又從十字街駅來到函館どつく前駅,再穿過寧靜的住宅區,來到這間大正3年(1914年)開業的大正湯。乍看之下,會以為是有錢人家的住宅,和洋融合的建築既氣派又典雅,外觀紛紅色與白色的搭配,想像不到裡面的錢湯已經100年以上的歷史。</div><div><br /></div><div>沒預料到,8點趕到大正湯,大門卻上了鎖,看來是提前打烊了,官網與Google Maps明明都寫9點,早知道就去吃小丑漢堡,或是留在函館山上用餐。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51771757282/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51771757282_f5e0036999_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>天寒,心更寒,暖呼呼的錢湯撲空,這時間點也不知道要吃什麼,乾脆搭著路面電車回到函館駅前駅,到大門橫丁碰碰運氣。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772579606/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772579606_1d55e51c6a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>路過站在轉角的「函館の妖精・夏」與「函館の妖精・冬」,頭戴花冠、打著赤腳的小女孩是夏天,圍著圍巾、腳穿雪靴的小男孩是冬天。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772823403/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772823403_f4dacc89e2_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772823378/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772823378_0485a8c9e0_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>毛茸茸的Domo君又出現了,我現在好想像他一樣張著大口,然後一股腦地把食物往嘴裡塞。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51773225899/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51773225899_4899438880_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>不虧是最早對開港的函館,既日本最古老的混凝土電線桿之後,在美鈴商事店門口遇見北海道最早的焙煎機。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772579311/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772579311_5c4dfb1fca_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>美鈴商事後方便是<a href="http://www.hakodate-yatai.com/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">大門橫丁</a>,說是屋台,但與福岡的屋台形式大不同,與其說是路邊攤,更像一間間店面比鄰的小吃街。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772823328/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772823328_119d42cf03_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div>裡面規模不大,一下就看完一輪,料理倒是很多樣化,日式、義式、法式皆有,只是店內座位都不多,從外面就能看到還有沒有空位。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51773463925/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51773463925_8beac5335a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51773463910/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51773463910_0100f8501b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>大門橫丁內的公共廁所前,有一柱共同水栓,是早期市民取用生活用水之處,水源來自函館山纜車山麓駅旁的元町配水場。那時為了解決水質汙染及霍亂,將北邊赤川的水引至函館山山麓的配水池,再導入山下,提供市民乾淨衛生的飲用水。</div><div><br /></div><div>函館水道開設晚了橫濱2年,是日本第二個水道系統,不同的是,橫濱水道是由英國人設計監造,函館水道則是第一座由日本人自行設計監造的供水系統。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51771757107/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51771757107_d17276a676_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>平時的話,可能會有選擇障礙,但今晚實在太餓了,又想喝熱湯,於是挑了這間<a href="http://www.hakodate-yatai.com/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">黃金塩ラーメン 龍鳳</a>。店外已有幾個人在等待,不過拉麵的翻桌速度很快,很快就坐進溫暖的店內。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772823238/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772823238_10c9a1a8b7_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>店內頂多容納6人,老闆父子兩人在狹小的廚房內忙著,雞油湯頭的鹽味拉麵是店家自豪之作。總覺得來到北海道要品嚐看看味增的風味,再加上一塊讓口感更加濃郁的奶油,不一會,熱騰騰的拉麵就上桌囉。 </div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772823198/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772823198_d66008c41f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51773463695/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51773463695_4d0ee46f5c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><div>大門橫丁的入口不時有計程車守著,可惜我們離下塌的膠囊旅館僅有幾百公尺的距離,沒能做到我們的生意。拉麵完食,悠閒地漫步回去。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772823213/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772823213_bd4a74d9fb_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>半途的公園廣場上,有座「月光仮面の像」的雕像。原作者川內康範就是出生於函館,這作品先是動漫畫,又拍成電視劇,引起了巨大的轟動,算是日本英雄特效劇的鼻祖了。之後,川內康範出資製作這雕像,回饋給家鄉,銘牌上刻著「憎むな、殺すな、赦しましょう」的崇高正義理念。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772823148/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772823148_f0be21a4cf_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>回到膠囊旅館,在交誼廳吃吃喝喝,小小抱怨沒有櫻花的五稜郭,也沒有泡到大正湯。更沒有吃到小丑漢堡及六花亭,只好狂吃這裡的零食,話說這罐哈密瓜水果酒真是好喝。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51773463815/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51773463815_21f14248e4_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>就在準備要收拾打算上樓前,櫃台工作人員默默遞來三張宣紙,上一次寫書法已經是很遙遠的國中,每週上繳的週記都要附上大楷與小楷的毛筆作業,現在連毛筆要怎麼握都忘的一乾二淨。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51773468340/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="201904花喵_190530_0055"><img alt="201904花喵_190530_0055" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51773468340_d60de6d730_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>承蒙工作人員不嫌棄,把我們胡亂揮毫的作品放在櫃台後展示,然後互道晚安,明日還要早起呢。</div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772579416/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772579416_20f73d46a5_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772823073/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772823073_04328d8855_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772580851/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772580851_15e2889121_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772824663/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772824663_fd6837f318_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>大概是星期四沒什麼遊客的緣故,幫我安排了一間獨立小房間,方便許多,背包地上一丟,爬上床,馬上倒頭就睡。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51773227179/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51773227179_8d5216ba3b_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div><div>清晨5點,離開<a href="https://capsule-hakodate.jp/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">カプセルホテル函館 (Capsule Hotel Hakodate)</a>,函館的行程要結束了,今天要往盛岡與仙台移動,繼續追下一個櫻花景點。</div><div>(因為疫情的影響,令和2年(2020年)5月這間膠囊旅館宣布結束營業。很可惜!真的很喜歡它交誼大廳的舒適空間。)</div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51775350449/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51775350449_a15cf661aa_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51774953413/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51774953413_a27225205f_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div><div>看著濕漉漉的地面,好在夜半下的雨沒有延續到天明,走去函館駅之前,還有個地方要去。路過有二宮金次郎像的新川小學校跡地,以前的校地改建成函館中央郵便局。殘念,時間太早,無法去郵便局收刮明信片。 </div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51773890257/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51773890257_1d0b1bc3ec_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>一路穿過公園廣場、高砂通り、八幡通り,來到落松綠地公園。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51774953373/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51774953373_d653640557_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51775350299/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51775350299_d1716270ef_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div></div></div><div>落松綠地公園旁有座石碑,上面刻著「土方歳三最期の地」,側旁立了座「一本木關門」,也就是指一本木關口的門。</div><div><br /></div><div>一本木關口原本是舊幕府軍的屯所,位在箱館市街通往五稜郭或松前街道的分歧點上,箱館總攻擊時,一本木關門被新政府軍奪下,作為進攻五稜郭的前線基地。為了增援被圍困在弁天台場的新選組殘餘隊士,率隊前去的土方歲三,在一本木關口與新政府軍發生激戰,中彈落馬之處,據說就在此地。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51774953233/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51774953233_c601e81dfb_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51774709306/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51774709306_a0b4fc6376_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51775588995/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51775588995_eab756ef89_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>類似這樣的紀念碑或衣冠塚,要是比鄰在台灣住宅區之中,早就民怨四起,哀聲載道,要求遷移。但在日本好像比較能共存在一個區域之中,或許是日本人對於亡者世界的信仰不同,也或著是對於這些歷史人物始終抱著堅定不移的信念,而感到認同與敬重。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51774709231/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51774709231_5f38eac45d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div>還不到6點的車站,已經有乘客在大廳等待,不知是不是與我們一樣要渡過輕津海峽。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51775588715/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51775588715_e1e01d9a9e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div><div>我們拿著昨天換取的JR Pass,可以選擇JR北海道的函館本線,往北搭到新函館北斗駅,或是選擇道南漁火鐵道(道南いさりび鉄道),往南搭到木古内町駅,然後再換乘北海道新幹線南行。不過JR Pass還派不上用場,一個想看海的念頭跳了出來,改搭道南漁火鐵道,再換搭津輕海峽渡輪。</div></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51773889957/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51773889957_643c2769ce_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>JR北海道的售票機實在太顯眼了,找了一會,才在票閘口的另一側發現道南漁火鐵道的售票機,第一時間完全沒有注意到,兩者的規模也相差太多了。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51774709066/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51774709066_1bdf85e25a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51772821303/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51772821303_9e1d8c39dc_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51773889882/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51773889882_6d61fefe7f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>通過票閘後就沒有候車室,早知道就在暖活的大廳待久一點。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51775588625/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51775588625_777b32484d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51774710996/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51774710996_61d42a67f1_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51774709151/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51774709151_a697332e16_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><div>連結月台的橫向通道上,有一幅名為「きのうの敵は あすの友」的巨幅雕刻,出自於世界著名雕刻家流政之的作品,用一千多片的有田燒陶瓷組成。上面描繪馬修培里、土方歲三、黑田清隆等許多與函館歷史有關的人物。</div><div><br /></div><div>標題將「昨天對立的敵人是今天的朋友」,改為「明天的朋友」,也寫著箱館解放1868年(應慶4年/明治元年),那一年12月便是箱館戰爭的開始。如今回頭看那些歷史,再看看標題,倒是有些許感慨。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51775352274/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51775352274_2b22a9011b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51775352219/in/album-72177720295486591/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51775352219_87c746f527_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div>時間差不多了,電車已停靠在月台等候發車,上車後還要忍住睡意,等等到了七重濱駅,還要快馬加鞭的趕去渡輪碼頭呢。<br /><div><br />2019.04<br /></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/04/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本盛岡追櫻:道南漁火鐵道.津輕海峽渡輪.石割櫻.盛岡城</a></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/05/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本宮城追櫻:藏王狐狸村.白石藏王駅</a></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/07/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本宮城追櫻:白石城.船岡城址公園.一目千本櫻</a></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/08/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本宮城追櫻:多賀城.松島</a></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/10/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本宮城追櫻:漫畫小鎮石卷.猫の島田代島住一晚</a></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/11/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本宮城追櫻:松島觀光船.北上展勝地公園</a></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2022/12/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本宮城追櫻:仙台夜櫻.夜景.米澤牛.烤牛舌「閣」</a></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2023/05/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本山形追櫻:寶珠山立石寺.山寺駅</a></div><div><a href="https://laxic.blogspot.com/2023/07/blog-post.html" rel="nofollow" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">日本宮城追櫻:仙台城.烤牛舌「伊達の牛たん本舗」</a></div>Laxichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04802970745091107114noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37782309.post-50102465721653623912021-12-17T00:48:00.004+08:002021-12-17T09:07:49.320+08:00再訪屏風山 (營地↔山頂新路)
<div>前一次來爬屏風山是在5年前的細雨紛紛的4月,當時D1的氣候雖然不佳,但後兩天逐漸轉晴的預報,讓我們決定溼漉漉地走向營地。巧的是,這次也4月,但本來的活動是南湖群峰,卻因為鋒面攪局而取消,不甘心清明連假就此虛度,看了雲圖預報,合歡山區上空出現一個無雲的窗口,於是臨時起意再訪屏風山。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51744895264/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190406_114304"><img alt="IMG_20190406_114304" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51744895264_a7b8852713_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><span><a name='more'></a></span><div><br /></div><div>如果選擇三天兩夜的愜意行程,屏風山是少數可以D1早上再出發的百岳之一,不用D0就暗夜趕車到登山口附近睡一晚。10點出頭,來到大禹嶺,車還不算多,還有許多停車空位可選。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51745140220/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190404_101726"><img alt="IMG_20190404_101726" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51745140220_aefe72c3fd_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51744251096/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190404_103424"><img alt="IMG_20190404_103424" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51744251096_b78288dec5_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>遙想起當年起登已是下午將近3點,每個人依序在接駁車升起的尾門下,換裝雨衣,揹起重裝,不甘不願的跨過護欄,走下之字路。</div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51744495713/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190404_103612"><img alt="IMG_20190404_103612" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51744495713_455a3e017f_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51744251036/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190404_103725"><img alt="IMG_20190404_103725" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51744251036_59617496de_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>也不知道為什麼,部分百岳的登山口就是那麼奇妙,好像見不得人般的,隱匿在奇怪的地方,不弄個顯著的告示牌之類的。</div><div><br /></div><div>下切的之字路還是一樣舖滿落葉與松針,一條鬆軟好走的地毯路,不像上回沾滿雨水,濕滑難走,還摔了一跤。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51744495633/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190404_105422"><img alt="IMG_20190404_105422" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51744495633_c1fa8d170e_b.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51745138870/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190404_110922"><img alt="IMG_20190404_110922" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51745138870_2ea9488ddf_b.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>下坡路輕輕鬆鬆,下切到塔次基里溪,還回去600m左右的高度,D3回程就要辛苦一點了。 </div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51744251006/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190404_111651"><img alt="IMG_20190404_111651" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51744251006_6e5be38b03_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51744250936/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190404_111653"><img alt="IMG_20190404_111653" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51744250936_aca68029a3_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51745138765/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190404_111749"><img alt="IMG_20190404_111749" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51745138765_aa2c1619bc_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>屏風山雖然沒有被列入四大鳥山之中,卻也被大多山友公認為鳥山之一,大概是因為少有展望。</div><div><br /></div><div>林隙間外望,沒有開闊的視野,滿是溪谷對岸濃密的樹林,反正只要天氣好,有陽光,看上去都蠻舒服的。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51744893739/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190404_111818"><img alt="IMG_20190404_111818" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51744893739_e54943d0da_b.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51744894039/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190404_111826"><img alt="IMG_20190404_111826" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51744894039_dc6013ddb1_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>支流的潺潺的流水,拂過溪床的微風,不自覺就停下腳步,慵懶地曬著日光。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51743424222/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190404_112821"><img alt="IMG_20190404_112821" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51743424222_aa92726099_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51744250811/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190404_113012"><img alt="IMG_20190404_113012" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51744250811_aecb60f641_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51744893934/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190404_113035"><img alt="IMG_20190404_113035" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51744893934_779562a129_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>過溪來到右岸,爬上崖壁段差續行。崖壁上的羊腸小徑是較為危險的路段,踏點看上去顏色暗沉,就是一副濕滑的樣貌,揹著重裝,得小心翼翼通過。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51743424152/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190404_115311"><img alt="IMG_20190404_115311" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51743424152_1c84467a85_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51744250736/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190404_115948"><img alt="IMG_20190404_115948" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51744250736_ae0afde391_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51744495238/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190404_121920"><img alt="IMG_20190404_121920" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51744495238_4d8d14de08_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>危險的路段就那一小段,接著在樹林中上上下下,路徑雖然狹小,倒沒有什麼危險性,唯一較危險的,大概就是路旁的咬人貓。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51744495228/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190404_123328"><img alt="IMG_20190404_123328" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51744495228_dab41088a2_b.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51744893819/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190404_124639"><img alt="IMG_20190404_124639" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51744893819_39c01b133d_b.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51744250651/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190404_124648"><img alt="IMG_20190404_124648" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51744250651_f3f03ab0c7_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51744893794/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190404_124742"><img alt="IMG_20190404_124742" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51744893794_53aa267e36_b.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>許多路段已經沒有印象了,每到要攀或要拉的地形,就不禁懷疑之前來的時候也有遇到同樣的地形嗎,而且一路緩下到鐵線吊橋,怎麼還有上坡路呢。 </div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51744495153/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190404_124842"><img alt="IMG_20190404_124842" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51744495153_a208bb8685_b.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51744497098/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190404_134655"><img alt="IMG_20190404_134655" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51744497098_f13be8f3a6_b.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51744895624/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190404_134847"><img alt="IMG_20190404_134847" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51744895624_a91c6e879c_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div></div></div><div>看看花花草草轉移注意力,沒有大景可以拍,就拍拍小東西。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51744894079/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190404_125108"><img alt="IMG_20190404_125108" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51744894079_745a2b2eb0_b.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51744895739/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190404_131556"><img alt="IMG_20190404_131556" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51744895739_35a1094ded_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51743425797/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190404_134135"><img alt="IMG_20190404_134135" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51743425797_35b5957e10_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51745140135/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190404_134614"><img alt="IMG_20190404_134614" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51745140135_e2aacf23d3_b.jpg" width="67%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><div>樹梢間少有的展望,東北方有畢羊縱走的畢祿山與鋸齒連峰,羊頭山則被黑岩山與加卑里山的稜線遮住。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51744497063/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190404_135627"><img alt="IMG_20190404_135627" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51744497063_2704c12a34_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>東南方就是屏風山的稜線,屏風山山頂就在眼前,但為何感覺距離比畢祿山還遠啊!</div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51744895599/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190404_135232"><img alt="IMG_20190404_135232" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51744895599_6f10e180e1_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><div>接著高繞通過一處較長的崩塌地,這裡更是完全沒有印象。不過也是很常見的破碎砂石地形,難度不高,謹慎通過就好。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51744496243/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190404_135757"><img alt="IMG_20190404_135757" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51744496243_bcf9c293da_b.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51744496213/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190404_135808"><img alt="IMG_20190404_135808" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51744496213_56f25187d5_b.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51744251636/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190404_140016_stitch"><img alt="IMG_20190404_140016_stitch" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51744251636_e8e5b460cf_b.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>崩塌地難得視野空曠,卻沒空欣賞,如此地形要快速通過才是上策。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51743424872/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190404_140345"><img alt="IMG_20190404_140345" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51743424872_566d7a6442_b.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51744251611/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190404_140349"><img alt="IMG_20190404_140349" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51744251611_4de5568555_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51744496138/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190404_140747"><img alt="IMG_20190404_140747" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51744496138_1820ff8fa5_b.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51744894654/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190404_141841"><img alt="IMG_20190404_141841" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51744894654_b47535d099_b.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>來到最低點的鐵線吊橋,下方便是湍流滾滾的塔次基里溪。現在的鐵線吊橋已經看不太到鐵線的蹤跡了,繩索也全面換新,比起以前被青苔包覆變成綠色的結繩,用鐵絲再三拉固的防護,現在更加安全了。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51744251251/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190404_143214"><img alt="IMG_20190404_143214" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51744251251_9644ba14fb_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51745139245/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190404_143301"><img alt="IMG_20190404_143301" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51745139245_54127bc2ae_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51744496113/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190404_143310"><img alt="IMG_20190404_143310" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51744496113_73e848f028_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>溪谷變得深又窄,風吹得更涼,可惜橋身沒有扶手可撐,沒能多待一會。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51744251546/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190404_143330"><img alt="IMG_20190404_143330" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51744251546_b460a622dd_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51745139015/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190404_143356"><img alt="IMG_20190404_143356" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51745139015_39dea4f96d_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>橋的另一端是塔次基里溪的河階平台,四周圍繞松樹林,陽光從樹冠縫隙中灑落,即將抵達營地,心情愉悅。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51744251181/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190404_151516_1"><img alt="IMG_20190404_151516_1" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51744251181_c2740b0684_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51744894344/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190404_151715_1"><img alt="IMG_20190404_151715_1" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51744894344_23b101d2cf_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>開闊處應該是稜線營地吧,但不是我們的目的地,再往前一些才是我們要的松針營地。</div><div><br /></div><div>上回急行軍到此,已經快要累癱了,再加上起登沒多久就摔一跤,整個始不上力。這次愜意慢行,看一下時間,走了5個小時左右,是上回2倍的時間。現在回想起來,真覺得不可思議!學長等級組成的隊伍,果然後精實!</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51745139200/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190404_151940"><img alt="IMG_20190404_151940" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51745139200_b6d58a6492_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51745139185/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190404_152203"><img alt="IMG_20190404_152203" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51745139185_4be5694a2b_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51744496073/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190404_153012"><img alt="IMG_20190404_153012" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51744496073_6c70c235d2_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>不一會,繽紛的帳棚一一出現,抵達這個名符其實的營地。松針遍佈,柔軟的讓人想要直接躺在地上。</div><div><br /></div><div>本來想再深入一點,找個能夠聽到塔次基里溪溪流沖刷聲的位置紮營,無奈再往前,已拉上黃色封鎖線。這不就意味著,舊路不被官方認可,無法再通行,合歡金礦營地、遠東金礦公司、合歡金礦公司的掏金熱的故事,愈來愈不為人知,將深藏在乏人問津的山中。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51744251471/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190404_153606"><img alt="IMG_20190404_153606" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51744251471_cfcef8d569_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51744251431/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190404_162303"><img alt="IMG_20190404_162303" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51744251431_d4eb2fa537_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>從營地往山頂的新路要涉溪而過,接著沿稜而上,比舊路安全許多,畢竟舊路在通過合歡金礦營地及最後水源之後,就開始撞牆,在高聳又破碎的岩壁拉繩上攀,崩壁一個接一個,暴露感極重。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51744251411/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190404_162940"><img alt="IMG_20190404_162940" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51744251411_da5f9c42ee_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51743424727/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190404_164010"><img alt="IMG_20190404_164010" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51743424727_537d44f0dc_b.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>新路就只是單純的爬坡,不時有巨木相伴,看得驚喜連連,大腿的疲累都拋諸腦後。</div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51744894339/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190405_055438"><img alt="IMG_20190405_055438" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51744894339_91ba17b27b_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51744251351/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190405_055538"><img alt="IMG_20190405_055538" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51744251351_9eca2e69fc_b.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51744251286/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190405_055550"><img alt="IMG_20190405_055550" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51744251286_b859e8a027_b.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>不知道為什麼,每次拍巨木都糊掉,快門釋放時都拿得很穩,事後檢視照片卻慘不忍睹。還是來拍二葉松好了,愈往高處,姿態愈奇特。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51745139060/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190405_075310"><img alt="IMG_20190405_075310" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51745139060_59c4b74a6d_b.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51743424612/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190405_075616"><img alt="IMG_20190405_075616" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51743424612_57266fa2ea_b.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51744495853/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190405_091219"><img alt="IMG_20190405_091219" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51744495853_bf410ac998_b.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51743424502/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190405_093810"><img alt="IMG_20190405_093810" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51743424502_9c36fcd603_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>登頂前最後一段較為陡峭,手腳並用,喘一下。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51744251326/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190405_094120"><img alt="IMG_20190405_094120" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51744251326_7e3f5552d7_b.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51744497038/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190405_094347"><img alt="IMG_20190405_094347" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51744497038_6b984d3fb6_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>出發5個小時後登頂,原本預期新路會再省一些時間,與舊路相比,所花費時間倒是差不多,但至少安全又輕鬆多了。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51744497023/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190405_104330"><img alt="IMG_20190405_104330" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51744497023_5c62873bff_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51745140025/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190405_104336"><img alt="IMG_20190405_104336" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51745140025_d56a2c7219_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>一直待在背包內的枇杷膏與仙草蜜,終於能夠出來放風。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51744496998/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190405_105134"><img alt="IMG_20190405_105134" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51744496998_cdd4210c10_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51744251706/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190405_105211"><img alt="IMG_20190405_105211" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51744251706_304f59dff1_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>大夥在山頂東摸西摸,摸了一個多小時才動身下山。鋒面讓東北面山區的氣候都不怎麼好,灰暗的雲層總罩在半空中。屏風山這裡就幸運多了,過中午後的陽光更加耀眼,枝頭上的綠葉更加鮮麗。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51744496978/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190405_132023"><img alt="IMG_20190405_132023" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51744496978_b0ee9d5bf2_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51743425117/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190405_150141"><img alt="IMG_20190405_150141" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51743425117_ef686f21a0_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51744251796/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190405_150240"><img alt="IMG_20190405_150240" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51744251796_ff69bbbf6d_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div></div></div><div>風在林間穿梭,掛在枝枒上的松針隨之飄逸,像草裙舞在擺盪一般,下山的腳步也隨之雀躍起來。</div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51743425297/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190405_140922"><img alt="IMG_20190405_140922" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51743425297_b4e3c6818e_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51743425162/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190405_141057"><img alt="IMG_20190405_141057" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51743425162_e656419bd1_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>上坡路總是低著頭走,下山才又發現更多巨木,而且就在山徑旁,近在咫尺。</div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51745139535/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190405_153753"><img alt="IMG_20190405_153753" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51745139535_c92da12871_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51744251696/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190405_154123"><img alt="IMG_20190405_154123" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51744251696_56e4bd941a_b.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51744894904/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190405_154638"><img alt="IMG_20190405_154638" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51744894904_02dec304e9_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51744496398/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190405_154919"><img alt="IMG_20190405_154919" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51744496398_52221ee704_b.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>這一路玩得不亦樂乎,也沒有太多的山友,清幽的很。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51744251751/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190405_154925"><img alt="IMG_20190405_154925" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51744251751_659ae2c1ec_b.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51745139485/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190405_155033"><img alt="IMG_20190405_155033" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51745139485_1e4e020024_b.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51744251736/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190405_155043"><img alt="IMG_20190405_155043" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51744251736_32e10bb712_b.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51745139355/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190405_155056"><img alt="IMG_20190405_155056" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51745139355_e4525977bc_b.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51745139460/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190405_155121"><img alt="IMG_20190405_155121" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51745139460_da08e00d39_b.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>這一路又花了4個小時,才又回到溪邊,不過卻不怎麼疲倦。回到帳棚第一件事,就先把登頂包丟一邊,換上拖鞋,在溪旁找塊大石坐下,泡水冰鎮雙腳。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51744894839/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190405_160458"><img alt="IMG_20190405_160458" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51744894839_fdcb419a37_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51743425142/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190405_160648"><img alt="IMG_20190405_160648" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51743425142_7e41ca15c6_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51744496283/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190405_160512"><img alt="IMG_20190405_160512" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51744496283_542f82e42c_b.jpg" width="67%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51744496308/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190405_160438"><img alt="IMG_20190405_160438" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51744496308_c55ba871d6_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><div>頭頂上只有這片不大的天空可看,難得天色還亮著就回到營地,沒有夕陽可看,就開始煮食,明天要爬回大禹嶺的公路,是屏風山行程中真正辛苦的部分。</div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51745139975/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190405_164637"><img alt="IMG_20190405_164637" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51745139975_e9d07bee6d_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51744895469/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190405_164643"><img alt="IMG_20190405_164643" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51744895469_a40d01f91a_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>睡到自然醒後,天空還是開闊的,一點也沒有受到鋒面影響,收起乾爽的帳棚,起身返程。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51744895449/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190406_082053"><img alt="IMG_20190406_082053" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51744895449_4fb8155bca_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51743425542/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190406_083928"><img alt="IMG_20190406_083928" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51743425542_6b699bd331_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51743425537/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190406_092513"><img alt="IMG_20190406_092513" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51743425537_6b699bd331_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51745139910/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190406_092517"><img alt="IMG_20190406_092517" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51745139910_dd871d14ae_b.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>屏風山以三天的行程來說,是再愜意不過了。然而受限於請假,不少人選擇緊湊的兩天行程,也不知是過於疲累,或是心理與技巧都還沒準備好,不少人在崩塌地形的表現,走的是七零八落。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51743425497/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190406_092854"><img alt="IMG_20190406_092854" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51743425497_9ae7cf7eab_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>反正卡在崩壁高繞點上,就當作停下來欣賞風景囉。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51744496823/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190406_092859"><img alt="IMG_20190406_092859" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51744496823_c978c8a363_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51743425462/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190406_093117"><img alt="IMG_20190406_093117" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51743425462_48c377d230_b.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51744895359/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190406_093428"><img alt="IMG_20190406_093428" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51744895359_44206f5ecd_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>回到塔次基里溪支流旁的崖壁段差,開心的路段結束了,接下來就要一路往上,把欠的海拔爬回去。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51744895344/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190406_110929"><img alt="IMG_20190406_110929" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51744895344_7a99abcedf_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51743425432/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190406_112439"><img alt="IMG_20190406_112439" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51743425432_733cd26c2c_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51744252126/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190406_112447"><img alt="IMG_20190406_112447" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51744252126_bd9f3e9505_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51743425402/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190406_112713"><img alt="IMG_20190406_112713" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51743425402_f4c960ee74_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>正當大夥都下到溪床,準備大休時,發生了一個小插曲。後面追來一隊速度頗快的學生隊伍,其中一位就在橫渡時,一個沒注意就從崖上摔下,碰的一聲撞擊聲響,大夥聽到都楞了幾秒。好在是自組隊,重裝背包夠大,又背部朝下落地,該學生躺了幾秒回神後彈了起來,檢查無大礙,隊伍又快馬加鞭,揚長而去。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51744895289/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190406_114100"><img alt="IMG_20190406_114100" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51744895289_f7fa943ca0_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51744895149/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190406_114241"><img alt="IMG_20190406_114241" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51744895149_b7e16f7972_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>往來的車流聲愈來愈清晰,從支流溪床起算,一小時又多一些的時間,回到大禹嶺,結束行程。</div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51744496673/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190406_124930"><img alt="IMG_20190406_124930" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51744496673_6179af7e73_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51744895399/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190406_125028"><img alt="IMG_20190406_125028" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51744895399_f98766a496_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>話說,有鑑於屏風山山難事故頻頻發生,近期又在原登山口下方1km處的公路旁,闢出一條新的路徑,與原本的路在鐵線吊橋之前接上。這條從公路到營地的新闢路徑,號稱比較安全,但其實我也想不通舊路有危險到要開一條新路的必要?畢竟通常是"人"的心態及技術沒有準備好,就想越級打怪者居多。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51745139750/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190406_132037"><img alt="IMG_20190406_132037" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51745139750_a63636d0b8_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51745139735/in/album-72157720285569725/" title="IMG_20190406_140448"><img alt="IMG_20190406_140448" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51745139735_b465367716_b.jpg" width="100%" /><br /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
</div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div><div><br /></div><div>總之,不論是從公路到營地,或是營地到山頂,有新路也是不錯的啦,就是多一個選擇,多一些變化。</div><div><br /></div><div>只是應該不會再來走第三次屏風山了,就像封印畢祿羊頭一樣。不是因為行程太操,而是實在太多一窩風登山郊遊化的人,甚至在營地蓋起山屋,雖然我是興建山屋派的,但並不樂見山屋被商業團體霸佔,如果相關單位不願重視及放任,不如離遠一點,求個清靜!</div><div><br /></div><div>2019.04</div>Laxichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04802970745091107114noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37782309.post-57223569963389475572021-12-10T13:56:00.004+08:002021-12-10T16:48:35.116+08:002019 Hilleberg Taiwan 露營@天時農場
<div>第一顆帳篷Ferrino Chaos 2服役幾年後,經過防水膠條脆化再補修,仍撐不住油婆蘭營地的風雨摧殘,下山後挑選許久,選擇了瑞典的Hilleberg,於是就來參加了Hilleberg的第二屆團露。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724819929/in/album-72157720208113386/" title="IMG_20190309_155544"><img alt="IMG_20190309_155544" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724819929_1a6681f1ac_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<span><a name='more'></a></span><div><br /></div><div>團露的地點在天時農場,剛好一圓先前想再來這個露營地的願望。初次來到天時農場是在2014年的時候,當時從集集租了單車,先從台16線0k騎到水里,隔日繼續騎到台16線西段終點的孫海橋。騎到孫海橋後折返,卻遇到大雨,我們跑進天時農場躲雨,農場老闆好心地幫忙打電話詢問周遭農家有沒有開貨車,好把我們連人帶車載出去。詢問無果,最後老闆用他的鈴木Jimny,車頂堆疊三輛單車,把我們載了出去,不但如此,還在水里請我們吃董家肉圓。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724170056/in/album-72157720208113386/" title="IMG_20190310_094203"><img alt="IMG_20190310_094203" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724170056_d7d47b3a2c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><div>畢竟素味平生,也沒有在農場營地消費,回到集集後想塞錢給老闆,老闆不收,堅持盡地主之誼的招待,甚至教了我們肉圓的在地吃法,每每回想起這件事,就覺得內心一股暖流。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51723359072/in/album-72157720208113386/" title="IMG_20190309_130823"><img alt="IMG_20190309_130823" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51723359072_272fdcd85e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div>第一次露營,早上才從住處出發,約莫中午來到天時農場,殊不知絕大多數的人都一早就來。還好一連串的活動是下午才開始,有趕上。</div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51725048135/in/album-72157720208113386/" title="IMG_20190309_155122"><img alt="IMG_20190309_155122" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51725048135_3df41672bc_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724820424/in/album-72157720208113386/" title="IMG_20190309_155124"><img alt="IMG_20190309_155124" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724820424_6bf78eca50_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724820389/in/album-72157720208113386/" title="IMG_20190309_155126"><img alt="IMG_20190309_155126" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724820389_ec13a3dc4c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>莫里斯幫我們留了一個營地,快速搭好帳篷。這顆Hilleberg Nallo GT不是Free standing的設計,要打營釘拉撐是費工了點,一個偷懶,想說用腳直接把營釘踩入土中,結果拖鞋太脆弱,直接貫穿鞋底。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724170421/in/album-72157720208113386/" title="IMG_20190309_155208"><img alt="IMG_20190309_155208" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724170421_65e12f03dd_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724170236/in/album-72157720208113386/" title="IMG_20190309_165913"><img alt="IMG_20190309_165913" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724170236_f84c80aa6d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>午後活動開始,帳篷新品發表、木製杯墊DIY、生火體驗,當然還有生火競賽,很充實又不會太緊湊。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51723359057/in/album-72157720208113386/" title="IMG_20190309_135554"><img alt="IMG_20190309_135554" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51723359057_9d153abc70_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724170386/in/album-72157720208113386/" title="IMG_20190309_161742"><img alt="IMG_20190309_161742" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724170386_db445d0725_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51723358992/in/album-72157720208113386/" title="IMG_20190309_163917"><img alt="IMG_20190309_163917" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51723358992_ff6137ccff_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>活動之餘,有很多發呆的空閒時間,調整一下平時匆忙急促的步調與心情。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724415233/in/album-72157720208113386/" title="IMG_20190309_164645"><img alt="IMG_20190309_164645" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724415233_89ba9c9e83_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724820244/in/album-72157720208113386/" title="IMG_20190309_164846"><img alt="IMG_20190309_164846" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724820244_d29e5b9fc6_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724170301/in/album-72157720208113386/" title="IMG_20190309_164839"><img alt="IMG_20190309_164839" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724170301_0c7fafc00b_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>最難的一個活動還是與陌生人相認,入場時大會給了每個人一張小紙條,上面有一組號碼,整個營區還有另一個人拿著一模一樣的號碼,只要在這兩天中彼此相認,就能獲得一份精美小禮物。不過實在太難,問了幾個人後,索性放棄。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51725047985/in/album-72157720208113386/" title="IMG_20190309_165004"><img alt="IMG_20190309_165004" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51725047985_b5913808f9_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724170206/in/album-72157720208113386/" title="IMG_20190309_191630"><img alt="IMG_20190309_191630" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724170206_520044a8b9_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>晚間,有無氧攀登八千米的呂果果,來分享海外攀登的經驗與趣事。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724415118/in/album-72157720208113386/" title="IMG_20190309_195702"><img alt="IMG_20190309_195702" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724415118_6bfd0cab71_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>沒有過多燈光的原始營地,一頂頂帳篷在黑夜中變成璀璨的寶石。話說以這帳篷的金額,也可以算是百萬夜景了吧。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724169866/in/album-72157720208113386/" title="IMG_20190309_221621"><img alt="IMG_20190309_221621" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724169866_88d4a45ce8_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>早晨,在群山擁簇下醒來,陽光還沒照進山中前,還是有點寒意,營火前倒了杯炭燒咖啡,讓身體暖一暖。</div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724415023/in/album-72157720208113386/" title="IMG_20190310_073720"><img alt="IMG_20190310_073720" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724415023_b3dc03bd05_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>大家陸續探出帳篷,有些人開始尋找被吹飛的東西,因為夜半一度大風大雨,不過飛走的都是些雨傘毛巾之類的小物,帳篷與天幕依舊屹立不搖。或許是油婆蘭營地那次連睡袋都溼透的陰影,被風雨喚醒後,在漆黑之中摸了摸內帳,很乾,完全沒有返潮,很安心的一覺到天亮。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724170131/in/album-72157720208113386/" title="IMG_20190310_073548"><img alt="IMG_20190310_073548" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724170131_fc7afabce3_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>最滿意的還是那前庭,可以盡情地放置背包與雜物,也不會影響出入。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51723358747/in/album-72157720208113386/" title="IMG_20190310_085315"><img alt="IMG_20190310_085315" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51723358747_c7ee3478aa_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724170021/in/album-72157720208113386/" title="IMG_20190310_094206"><img alt="IMG_20190310_094206" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724170021_aa7639ec49_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>以登山來看,這頂帳篷還是要克服一些外在條件,即使前庭可以往內捲折,還是需要較大的腹地來搭設,再來就是需要打營釘,還有就是重量重了些。每個人的需求不同,在意的項目就不同,整體而言,這顆帳篷還蠻滿意的。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51723358677/in/album-72157720208113386/" title="IMG_20190310_094457_1"><img alt="IMG_20190310_094457_1" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51723358677_79d66be424_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724414903/in/album-72157720208113386/" title="IMG_20190310_110541"><img alt="IMG_20190310_110541" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724414903_dc067d48c2_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>拔營離去,繞到孫海橋來看看。濁水溪河床的台電維修便道已經淹沒,而且明明還未開放,居然出現重裝背包與登山鞋,只能說偷跑這件事防不甚防。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51725047875/in/album-72157720208113386/" title="IMG_20190310_111852"><img alt="IMG_20190310_111852" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51725047875_92db03a3e3_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724169946/in/album-72157720208113386/" title="IMG_20190310_111821"><img alt="IMG_20190310_111821" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724169946_d8ee2dd782_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51723358582/in/album-72157720208113386/" title="IMG_20190310_111831"><img alt="IMG_20190310_111831" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51723358582_010cc2f6a0_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724414748/in/album-72157720208113386/" title="IMG_20190310_111845"><img alt="IMG_20190310_111845" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724414748_fbb00e5ea7_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>離開孫海橋,天氣也開始晴朗,這次回程不用擔心下雨了,但水里董家肉圓還是要去光顧一下。可惜在營地找了一圈,沒有遇到老闆,或許要等下午大家都散場後,老闆才會來營地散後吧,希望有緣再見了!</div><div><br /></div><div></div><div> 2019.03</div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>Laxichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04802970745091107114noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37782309.post-26341512551149907982021-12-09T17:25:00.002+08:002021-12-09T17:25:50.214+08:00花東四小橫之台11甲&逆玉長
<div>花東四橫四縱的單車行,橫斷的部分,只剩下台11甲線還沒完成。這條路線被留到最後並非沒有原因,由東向西的話,第一天搭火車到光復,再橫向騎到豐濱,第二天往北騎,時間則會非常緊迫;反過來由西向東,則第一天會非常辛苦。綜歸就是台11線上沒有火車可偷吃步地輕鬆移動,不好利用週休二日兩天排行程。</div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724773449/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190228_110314"><img alt="IMG_20190228_110314" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724773449_ba32580ecc_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<span><a name='more'></a></span><div><br /></div><div></div><div><div>最好的時間就是利用228連假,再多請一天假,用四天來完成四縱的最後一塊拼圖。第一天是移動日,從台北移動到花蓮市,從鵝肉先生吃到邊境法式甜點,再逛個遠東百貨,做個腳底按摩,傍晚移動到光復,入住一間浴室天花板隱藏燈槽躲有大喇牙的民宿,洗澡洗的提心吊膽。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724774839/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190228_172725"><img alt="IMG_20190228_172725" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724774839_2365dfb259_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><div>早上盥洗,很怕大喇牙又出現,所以精神特別好。正式出發前,發現一間蒙古蛋餅,很好奇,決定先來嚐鮮,填飽五臟廟再上路。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51725002895/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190301_090111"><img alt="IMG_20190301_090111" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51725002895_cc6d151ff1_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><div>台11甲線又稱光豐公路,起點光復,終點豐濱,全程不到20km,在日治時期著所修築的東海道中,貓公(豐濱)到馬太鞍(光復)是最晚完成的一段。這段路也是舊台11線的起點,在花蓮–水璉–磯崎–豐濱的沿海公路開闢通車後,改設為支線。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51725002885/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190301_092544"><img alt="IMG_20190301_092544" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51725002885_917af503d6_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>因為編號單數的公路為南北向,即便支線像是東西橫斷,標示依舊為南向。</div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724774789/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190301_093539"><img alt="IMG_20190301_093539" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724774789_61c624308f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><div>平路路段在通過太巴塱後就沒了,短短不到4km,開始進入山區,緩上爬升。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724369863/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190301_094442"><img alt="IMG_20190301_094442" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724369863_7257343330_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><div>縱谷另一端的山區雖然雲多,平地能見度還算不錯,白色帶狀的馬鞍溪河床橫於前,部落屋舍愈來愈小,而路面坡度卻愈來愈陡。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51723313962/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190301_095849"><img alt="IMG_20190301_095849" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51723313962_eeea247257_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51725002830/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190301_095853"><img alt="IMG_20190301_095853" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51725002830_abeb620556_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><div>離出發一個小時的時間,9km不到,就來到光復鄉與豐濱鄉的交界,出乎意料的快。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51723313942/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190301_102401"><img alt="IMG_20190301_102401" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51723313942_2c209f9618_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><div>過了以山稜為界的鄉界,就表示接下來一路下坡,輕鬆滑行。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724774719/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190301_102706"><img alt="IMG_20190301_102706" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724774719_3f4df0cb19_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>差一點錯過台11甲線的11K標示牌,趕緊掉頭,合照完繼續滑車吹風。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51723313922/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190301_103324"><img alt="IMG_20190301_103324" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51723313922_e2bee7a5f8_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51725002775/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190301_103406"><img alt="IMG_20190301_103406" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51725002775_72756f8125_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>11點來到山下,時間太充裕,進去光豐農會的豐濱生鮮超市採買零食,隨手買幾顆小巧可愛的哈密瓜。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724773414/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190301_110238"><img alt="IMG_20190301_110238" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724773414_edb5daa255_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>架上的特級紅標米酒一定很嗆辣,滿滿的紅辣椒。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724124981/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190301_110715"><img alt="IMG_20190301_110715" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724124981_7452426028_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>超市門口的夾娃娃機內,有個鯨魚的玩偶,花了10元碰碰運氣,想不到就夾中了。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724124971/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190301_112915"><img alt="IMG_20190301_112915" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724124971_c1fd0bfaf6_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>離開超市,轉個彎就是台11甲線終點19.2km的路牌。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51725002725/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190301_121259"><img alt="IMG_20190301_121259" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51725002725_c069b3999e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51725002730/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190301_121213"><img alt="IMG_20190301_121213" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51725002730_817f29a52c_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div>接上台11線,跨過八里灣溪,路邊攤買隻烤香腸,再繼續上路。<div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51723313832/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190301_121836"><img alt="IMG_20190301_121836" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51723313832_9609a199eb_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>雖然台11甲線翻越海岸山脈沒那麼辛苦,麻煩的是要考慮往北騎或往南騎,然後想辦法接回台9線,才有火車可以搭。這次我們選擇往南騎,從玉長公路接回玉里。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51723313807/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190301_130734"><img alt="IMG_20190301_130734" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51723313807_18cd80c55a_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724369633/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190301_130855"><img alt="IMG_20190301_130855" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724369633_60b2b05395_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>路旁一個石墩基座,突然想起這是「人定勝天碑」,之前由南往北騎還有見著,如今已被蘇迪勒颱風捲起的大浪打入大海中。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724368843/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190301_132103"><img alt="IMG_20190301_132103" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724368843_0708ae6c96_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724773564/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190301_132138"><img alt="IMG_20190301_132138" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724773564_42809531c1_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>遠遠的就看到大港口山,山下往海邊延伸的平台就是石梯坪。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51725001755/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190301_132150"><img alt="IMG_20190301_132150" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51725001755_65942e477a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>也差不多是午餐時間,進到石梯坪也只有海鮮餐廳可選,不如就下馬來這間路旁的"船長的飛魚"。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724123931/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190301_132930"><img alt="IMG_20190301_132930" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724123931_f22e18c78b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724773494/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190301_135659"><img alt="IMG_20190301_135659" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724773494_ffaf2bf2da_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>用餐區在馬路對面的棚架下,礫石灘海景第一排,別有一番風味。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724368723/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190301_135503"><img alt="IMG_20190301_135503" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724368723_13a1144378_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724123776/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190301_141706"><img alt="IMG_20190301_141706" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724123776_9c44e9401e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>邊看海,邊嚼飛魚一夜干。飛魚很有風味,但因為刺很多,每次都吃得亂七八糟。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724368688/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190301_143543"><img alt="IMG_20190301_143543" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724368688_80953131a4_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>石梯坪水梯田間的幾間民宿,猶如擺脫俗世,尤其那間沙漠風情,從15年前在雜誌上看到介紹,就很想來體驗,只是15年過去了,都還沒有機會實現。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724773464/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190301_153342"><img alt="IMG_20190301_153342" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724773464_41ced6692b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>公路繞過大港口山的東面,一路緩上坡,穿過小小的港口村。路旁雜貨店的彩繪很有趣,忍不住停下車細看,後來貼上去的"羊肉爐上市"紙條,更是神來一筆。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51725001635/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190301_154741"><img alt="IMG_20190301_154741" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51725001635_ec09399caa_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>繞過大港口山後,來到秀姑巒溪出海口的長虹橋。想到以前唸書時能從市區一路騎著機車到此,就覺得佩服以前的自己。那時橋下還有間曾記麻糬,走進門市還發現店員坐在櫃檯前打瞌睡,回想起來就覺得逗趣。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724368613/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190301_155451"><img alt="IMG_20190301_155451" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724368613_6a1c8e250f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724123896/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190301_155620"><img alt="IMG_20190301_155620" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724123896_e8d30c35d1_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>秀姑巒溪映著山林深邃的綠,兩岸零星散布巨石,在深綠的襯托下,更顯白皙,這大概是花蓮八景中秀姑漱玉所描繪的景象吧。橫越其上的舊長虹橋,不再開放汽機車通行,曾經為台灣第一座沒有橋墎的單孔橋,比起紅通通的新長虹橋舊橋,顯得優雅許多。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51723313722/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190301_155627"><img alt="IMG_20190301_155627" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51723313722_2fb26a9016_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51725002590/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190301_160314"><img alt="IMG_20190301_160314" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51725002590_7cd39c1669_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>奚卜蘭遊客中心也與記憶中的畫面不太相同了,全白的建築更顯眼,空間規畫得更好了。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724369588/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190301_160003_stitch"><img alt="IMG_20190301_160003_stitch" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724369588_ba9538a3ac_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51723313667/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190301_160335"><img alt="IMG_20190301_160335" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51723313667_b94202765c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>停車場一台鼎東客運的巴士相當引人注目,斗大的寫著'開往成功的巴士",這雙關語實在太有創意了,車身上許多勵志的標語,很有趣,看著看著都想去搭車了。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724773689/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190301_160857"><img alt="IMG_20190301_160857" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724773689_92f1c9df57_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>再次來到靜浦北迴歸線標,打從某一年陸客觀光團不來台灣後,這裡的遊覽車亂象大幅減少,遊客不再爭先恐後地拍照,現在有品質多了。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724774454/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190301_162123"><img alt="IMG_20190301_162123" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724774454_311f797384_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724124736/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190301_162318"><img alt="IMG_20190301_162318" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724124736_87648c83bc_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51725002170/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190301_162753"><img alt="IMG_20190301_162753" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51725002170_a6ecfe88ff_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>這個像髮夾造型的地標,在地震頻繁的花蓮,能如此屹立不搖,真是不簡單。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724773989/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190301_162826"><img alt="IMG_20190301_162826" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724773989_47bd8ddf83_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51723313277/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190301_162849"><img alt="IMG_20190301_162849" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51723313277_6054b6c374_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51725002110/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190301_163111"><img alt="IMG_20190301_163111" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51725002110_81c2889f8b_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>進入樟原部落,往山側望去,緩坡上居然有艘巨大的船,騎到路口仔細一看,原來是樟原長老教會將建築外型蓋成船首的模樣,這實在是太酷了!</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724773924/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190301_165401"><img alt="IMG_20190301_165401" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724773924_1a45398e69_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724773934/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190301_165427"><img alt="IMG_20190301_165427" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724773934_a7b4a8069b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>這艘大船真讓人嘆為觀止,或許是取自諾亞方舟寓言的靈感。正面看進去,很像斷面圖,兩側下方會有海浪,船首兩側都劃上了錨,就連木條紋都一一刻畫,太有意思了。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51725002075/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190301_165527_stitch"><img alt="IMG_20190301_165527_stitch" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51725002075_a740cb6c61_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724124051/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190301_165621"><img alt="IMG_20190301_165621" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724124051_d933bcfb25_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724773864/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190301_165728"><img alt="IMG_20190301_165728" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724773864_5df0f3a270_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>天色漸漸昏暗,在摸黑之前,來到長濱。今晚入住一間汽車旅館,老闆看我們騎著單車check-in,大概也覺得很妙吧。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51723313207/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190301_183820"><img alt="IMG_20190301_183820" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51723313207_f977c7c593_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>一早的天氣真不錯,海天一色,心曠神怡,在海濤的呼喚下,沿著汽車旅館後方的小路,騎往海邊。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51723313217/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190302_105104"><img alt="IMG_20190302_105104" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51723313217_f66aaf1f59_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724773809/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190302_105203"><img alt="IMG_20190302_105203" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724773809_7714552b1a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>長濱的舊稱為加走灣,有一說是阿美族語Pikakasawan的轉音,有瞭望所之意,但無法確切知道是阿美族防範清兵或噶瑪蘭族的哨所,亦或是清兵防止騷擾,雇用阿美族在岩岬上守望。另一說是狩獵小屋,因掛滿獵物,導致跳蚤叢生,而有台語的諧音。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724773794/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190302_105222"><img alt="IMG_20190302_105222" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724773794_edd70217f0_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724368993/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190302_105239"><img alt="IMG_20190302_105239" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724368993_bf108d6e45_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724124201/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190302_105301"><img alt="IMG_20190302_105301" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724124201_47484264bc_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>鎮上找了間門面看似不錯的早餐店,吃飽再上路。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51723313127/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190302_110957"><img alt="IMG_20190302_110957" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51723313127_d78f96ecd8_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51725002005/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190302_111156"><img alt="IMG_20190302_111156" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51725002005_36686cbe3a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>被路過的花店盆栽吸引,看了許久,還與忙碌的老闆攀談了一會,居然一直聊到老闆願意收1000元的車資將我們連人帶車載到玉長隧道。有點傻眼,天氣不好不想騎車,天氣太好也不想騎車,是我們一貫的惰性。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724124706/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190302_121954"><img alt="IMG_20190302_121954" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724124706_ef05acf979_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>但時間真得太早了,搭上車就太浪費如此的好天氣,當然是要繼續騎。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724124691/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190302_124912"><img alt="IMG_20190302_124912" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724124691_963a7130a4_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51725002220/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190302_131211"><img alt="IMG_20190302_131211" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51725002220_3090631927_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>玉長公路岔路口到了,先在觀景台看看海,休息一下再挑戰。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51723313547/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190302_131905"><img alt="IMG_20190302_131905" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51723313547_11d424bcc0_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>長濱觀景台的大魚長椅真是舒服,躺下去就不想動了。</div><div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51723313517/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190302_133405"><img alt="IMG_20190302_133405" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51723313517_ecc8bb2a7a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div></div></div></div><div>眼前是開闊的藍天與大海,有點不想面對身後的積滿雲的山。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724774324/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190302_131816"><img alt="IMG_20190302_131816" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724774324_1065181f03_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div></div><div><div>該面對的還是要面對,上回是從騎台30線,從玉里騎到長濱的路是緩上陡下,過玉長隧道後的後半段,滑得很開心。這次反了過來,將會是場硬仗。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51725002480/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190302_131451"><img alt="IMG_20190302_131451" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51725002480_3ace1a3012_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51723313572/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190302_131458"><img alt="IMG_20190302_131458" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51723313572_daa699ffb1_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>先與台30線終點35.433km路牌合照一張,將龍頭轉向山側,面對現實。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724369528/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190302_131434"><img alt="IMG_20190302_131434" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724369528_e6a54a6177_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724124391/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190302_131635"><img alt="IMG_20190302_131635" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724124391_9b523bb14b_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>一開始就不太好騎,路緣離護欄很近,再加上雙向雙車道中間有黃色軟管警示柱,車輛從旁超越時,會離得很近,頗為危險。</div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724124586/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190302_134350"><img alt="IMG_20190302_134350" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724124586_c2f50b27ca_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724369428/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190302_134405"><img alt="IMG_20190302_134405" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724369428_0cbaec754c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>才爬上第二個彎就喘吁吁了,後面的隊友都不見了。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724369433/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190302_135030"><img alt="IMG_20190302_135030" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724369433_c11337f90c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724124551/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190302_135129"><img alt="IMG_20190302_135129" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724124551_62028665b6_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>直接在髮夾彎的觀景台大休,一來也是這裡的視野真不錯,俯瞰大海與聚落,可以暫時忘掉雙腿及屁股的痠痛。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724369403/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190302_140344"><img alt="IMG_20190302_140344" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724369403_8874fb25d4_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51723313427/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190302_140457"><img alt="IMG_20190302_140457" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51723313427_02ae8f2745_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724774134/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190302_140501"><img alt="IMG_20190302_140501" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724774134_3b02a582fc_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>繼續騎行,要騎到隧道的另一頭,才算爬完上坡路段,而這段路與昨天騎到鄉界的距離差不多,大約9km左右。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724774139/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190302_143250"><img alt="IMG_20190302_143250" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724774139_705fb3043f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51723313327/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190302_143253"><img alt="IMG_20190302_143253" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51723313327_83d87be8a2_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>騎不動就路邊停車休息,身體被風吹冷就繼續騎。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724774094/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190302_143258"><img alt="IMG_20190302_143258" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724774094_23bd028f47_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724369273/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190302_150241"><img alt="IMG_20190302_150241" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724369273_b65364dd64_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724774064/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190302_150557"><img alt="IMG_20190302_150557" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724774064_9f76bc4cb3_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>一路走走停停,終於騎上東部海岸國家風景區遼望台,這裡已經聚集不少遊客在拍照,不過說實在的,下面髮夾彎的觀景台比較優。 </div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724369248/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190302_151252"><img alt="IMG_20190302_151252" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724369248_62fc342f20_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724774219/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190302_152556"><img alt="IMG_20190302_152556" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724774219_aff641210c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724126046/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190302_152747"><img alt="IMG_20190302_152747" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724126046_2f34d706ca_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>拐一個彎,就是玉長隧道東口了,再騎一小段,穿出隧道就輕鬆了。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724370728/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190302_153700"><img alt="IMG_20190302_153700" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724370728_e293abe06e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>玉長隧道西口,艱辛的路程都結束了,開始一路往下滑。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51725003400/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190302_154941"><img alt="IMG_20190302_154941" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51725003400_f729d9802f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724370708/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190302_154953"><img alt="IMG_20190302_154953" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724370708_0740cc2019_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>不用15分鐘,就滑到安通溫泉。路旁停好車,走到安通溪旁的露天野溪溫泉,泡個腳,修復一下。溫泉水溫偏高,可惜沒有冷水,且有些素質低的人在抽菸,沒一會就離開。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724370698/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190302_160450"><img alt="IMG_20190302_160450" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724370698_5980f47a81_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724370678/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190302_160716"><img alt="IMG_20190302_160716" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724370678_36e7206f44_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>台30線的0k起點在很遙遠的<span face="sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #202122; font-size: 15.008px;">山風,也是</span><span face="sans-serif" style="color: #202122;"><span style="font-size: 15.008px;">瓦拉米步道口,打從台18線計畫線取消後,台18線的東段就編入台30線之中。對我們而言,沒有要騎到0k處,騎完玉長公路就可以收工了。不過收工前,例行性來到板塊交界處,這次來特別有感覺,因為幾個月前</span></span><span face="sans-serif" style="color: #202122; font-size: 15.008px;">在</span><span face="sans-serif" style="color: #202122;"><span style="font-size: 15.008px;">冰島旅遊時,踏在歐亞板塊與北美洲板塊的交界,現在則在歐亞板塊另一端的邊界上。</span></span></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51725003650/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190302_163919"><img alt="IMG_20190302_163919" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51725003650_6e44d1795a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724125986/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190302_163938"><img alt="IMG_20190302_163938" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724125986_ba378766cb_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51723314787/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190302_164043"><img alt="IMG_20190302_164043" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51723314787_07dc32de8f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>不免俗來吃橋頭臭豆腐,就算拿到號碼牌也要等很長一段時間。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724125971/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190302_170031"><img alt="IMG_20190302_170031" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724125971_c4e77a8da4_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>等待之餘,可以先來去東部臺灣黑熊教育館,多認識一下台灣珍貴的黑熊。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724370443/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190302_170345"><img alt="IMG_20190302_170345" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724370443_59c02db24c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51725003610/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190302_170425"><img alt="IMG_20190302_170425" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51725003610_e92b23fa1d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51725003600/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190302_170504"><img alt="IMG_20190302_170504" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51725003600_8d2fd76218_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51723314722/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190302_170529"><img alt="IMG_20190302_170529" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51723314722_43bb73277a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>台灣黑熊的骨骸模型,左前掌已經斷了,因為一但中了獵具,黑熊會咬斷手掌或腳掌,設法逃生,這真是棲地愈來愈少的悲歌。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724125901/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190302_170716"><img alt="IMG_20190302_170716" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724125901_6cee307292_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724775509/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190302_170721"><img alt="IMG_20190302_170721" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724775509_93e33b38e1_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>館內不大,豐富的介紹之外,倒是有許多與黑熊相關的擺飾。其中一個已經滅絕的黑熊,就是復興航空旗下廉價航空的威航的吉祥物,威航(V air)。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724775334/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190302_170742"><img alt="IMG_20190302_170742" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724775334_458af5d7f0_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51723314677/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190302_170815"><img alt="IMG_20190302_170815" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51723314677_3519540e6c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51725003525/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190302_171001"><img alt="IMG_20190302_171001" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51725003525_2160f58c4e_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51723314522/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190302_171236"><img alt="IMG_20190302_171236" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51723314522_5566c74129_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724370563/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190302_170841"><img alt="IMG_20190302_170841" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724370563_de89f40392_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div></div><div><div>等排到臭豆腐飽餐一頓後,天也黑了,馬上趕往車站。沒想到玉里車站也改頭換面了,只是造型非常奇特,看上去是一面巨大的牆,有種說不上來卻很怪的感覺,甚至第一眼有被嚇了一跳。</div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724775444/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190302_194457"><img alt="IMG_20190302_194457" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724775444_143ae3e88e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51723314642/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190302_194553"><img alt="IMG_20190302_194553" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51723314642_99bf771c90_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724370498/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190302_194637"><img alt="IMG_20190302_194637" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724370498_a8026693ab_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>站房內還是老樣子,沒被翻新,所以僅是用新的牆遮住舊的站體,重新拉皮。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724775409/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190302_194747"><img alt="IMG_20190302_194747" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724775409_e5200b86b4_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>站房高處掛滿花東自豪的特產燈箱,Q版的農特產品很可愛,辣椒、白米、香菇、白米,至於最右邊的四方體是什麼?難道是豆腐嗎?</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724775314/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190302_195506"><img alt="IMG_20190302_195506" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724775314_6dc8378850_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51723314622/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190302_200534"><img alt="IMG_20190302_200534" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51723314622_1b252017f4_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>搭上區間車,往南前去關山,在鴻運哥的民宿住一晚。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51725003425/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190302_203628"><img alt="IMG_20190302_203628" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51725003425_6ce1ddcf4d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724370448/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190302_210024"><img alt="IMG_20190302_210024" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724370448_7478f6a7c7_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724370373/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190302_214918"><img alt="IMG_20190302_214918" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724370373_cc1af03591_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>清早,山巒還映著海岸山脈的斜影時,天后宮前的早市就已經熱鬧了起來。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724775649/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190303_073051_stitch"><img alt="IMG_20190303_073051_stitch" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724775649_e3450ce551_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>早餐終於盼到在地熱門的小星星,之前來沒有營業,撲了個空。9點多來,說早不早,說晚不晚,但店內卻爆滿,排了好一會才有座位。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724371183/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190303_095341"><img alt="IMG_20190303_095341" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724371183_fea417acfe_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>今天沒什麼路要趕,悠閒一點就是騎到池上,再搭火車到玉里還單車;或是精實一點,一路直接騎到玉里還車。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724775884/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190303_103027"><img alt="IMG_20190303_103027" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724775884_8432dbe058_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724776089/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190303_103558_stitch"><img alt="IMG_20190303_103558_stitch" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724776089_923861da8f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>不用說,台11甲線及台30線都騎完了,當然是選擇悠閒的在稻田間慢行穿梭。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724126416/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190303_104524"><img alt="IMG_20190303_104524" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724126416_1a3f5fbccb_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724126401/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190303_104532"><img alt="IMG_20190303_104532" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724126401_f6a2dd49e9_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51723315192/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190303_105058"><img alt="IMG_20190303_105058" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51723315192_88a2a72865_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724371133/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190303_105518"><img alt="IMG_20190303_105518" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724371133_740e967b0b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>金城武一句「I See You!」的長榮航空廣告都過去那麼多年了,這棵被稱為金城武樹的大樹,還是那麼熱門。附近岔路,甚至還出現了蔡依林樹的路標,令人啼笑皆非。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51725003965/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190303_110309"><img alt="IMG_20190303_110309" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51725003965_17ba37bea3_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724776014/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190303_110354"><img alt="IMG_20190303_110354" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724776014_0bbe3d19bf_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>到池上車站搭車之前,先買杯叮哥,再買包封仔餅,車上解嘴殘的好物。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51723315177/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190303_112512"><img alt="IMG_20190303_112512" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51723315177_be3283722c_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724126341/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190303_113849"><img alt="IMG_20190303_113849" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724126341_daecb89f0e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51723315157/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190303_114122"><img alt="IMG_20190303_114122" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51723315157_84ddfa3856_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>池上車站翻新也完工了,上回來參加阿柳與櫻桃的婚禮,車站還在施工中。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724371103/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190303_114301"><img alt="IMG_20190303_114301" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724371103_aaed3d5136_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51725003935/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190303_114311"><img alt="IMG_20190303_114311" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51725003935_a20bf7b393_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51725004075/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190303_114341"><img alt="IMG_20190303_114341" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51725004075_311236c80e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>離莒光發車還有半小時,一開始站物拒絕我們辦理單車托運,大概是人手真的不夠,最後還是讓我們託運了,讓我們自行將車牽上月台。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51725004050/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190303_115039"><img alt="IMG_20190303_115039" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51725004050_ac9fbd472d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724371053/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190303_121219"><img alt="IMG_20190303_121219" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724371053_96e2362fc2_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51725004015/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190303_121222"><img alt="IMG_20190303_121222" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51725004015_fe9c5569d6_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>再次來到玉里車站,鬆了一口氣,剛才要是不能拖運就完蛋了,要從池上騎回玉哩,絕對連回台北的火車班次都趕不上。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724371018/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190303_131321"><img alt="IMG_20190303_131321" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724371018_6f682a373f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>最後,找了間頗有個性的咖啡店,更重要的是店內有貓,消磨候車的時間。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51724775844/in/album-72157720202366403/" title="IMG_20190303_132216"><img alt="IMG_20190303_132216" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51724775844_83323f6297_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>2019.02-03</div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>Laxichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04802970745091107114noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37782309.post-67231687989767158182021-12-04T00:59:00.002+08:002021-12-04T00:59:44.744+08:00溼透的雙溪櫻花馬
<div>經過了4年,前一次雙溪櫻花馬跑完後癱軟的模樣,幾乎已經在記憶中消失,所以又再次被King遊說成功,報名了雙溪櫻花馬。不知道從哪一屆開始,雙溪櫻花馬變的比較有人性,開放了半馬組別,所以沒被摧殘過的Celia也一起來了,報名了半馬,而我也報半馬,卻又被King洗腦成全馬了。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51718191369/in/album-72157720193014853/" title="IMG_20190224_122520"><img alt="IMG_20190224_122520" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51718191369_3fe571ae47_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<span><a name='more'></a></span><div><br /></div><div>前一天大夥陸續來到雙溪,King熱情的招待大家住宿一晚,以最好的狀態迎戰隔日的櫻花馬。沒想到隔天卻是毛毛雨,大夥意興闌珊的走去會場。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51717534736/in/album-72157720193014853/" title="IMG_20190224_082703"><img alt="IMG_20190224_082703" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51717534736_39bf9b388b_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>人潮稀稀落落,不知道都躲到哪躲雨了,直到起跑前最後一刻,才又湧了出來。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51717534731/in/album-72157720193014853/" title="IMG_20190224_083007"><img alt="IMG_20190224_083007" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51717534731_b5b65ef232_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>一直到通過起跑點之前,都還在猶豫,到底是要穿著雨衣跑?還是拿著雨傘跑?或是索性不防雨了?</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51716731417/in/album-72157720193014853/" title="IMG_20190224_083109"><img alt="IMG_20190224_083109" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51716731417_8d7ed9e2c8_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51718191599/in/album-72157720193014853/" title="IMG_20190224_083134"><img alt="IMG_20190224_083134" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51718191599_47c3b028da_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>先繞在小鎮內一圈,才跑上雙泰產業道路。後來我才發現,繞的這一個圈圈內有三條河川,有平林溪與牡丹溪,然後匯流成雙溪,匯流處是渡船頭與老街。</div><div><br /></div><div>據說此處曾是雙溪最熱鬧的地方,清朝時是淡蘭古道的重要關口,貨運與載客的船全都會從此處裝卸,順著溪往來下游貢寮的舊社。因此,長安街上商家林立,旅店、戲院、米店、布莊,無一不缺,相當熱鬧,與今日有相當大的對比,下次找一天再來好好走一回。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51717534711/in/album-72157720193014853/" title="IMG_20190224_083324"><img alt="IMG_20190224_083324" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51717534711_4a094c3e5d_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>鎮上路幅不夠,又剛起跑,大家都擠在一起。以前一次的經驗來看,進入產業道路,大家就會在爬坡道上被一一擊落。不過雨勢稍稍變大,我還是自己拉開距離,退到隊伍最後方,空間就寬闊多了。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51718403045/in/album-72157720193014853/" title="IMG_20190224_084412"><img alt="IMG_20190224_084412" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51718403045_b8c434e7b7_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51716731392/in/album-72157720193014853/" title="IMG_20190224_084436"><img alt="IMG_20190224_084436" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51716731392_93d3eaa85b_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>反正之前一次的全馬就有完賽,雨既然不停,那就當作雨中散步。可惜雨已打落大半粉葉,枝椏上僅剩幾點胭紅。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51717791873/in/album-72157720193014853/" title="IMG_20190224_090738"><img alt="IMG_20190224_090738" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51717791873_c17a9bed03_b.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51718403230/in/album-72157720193014853/" title="IMG_20190224_092143"><img alt="IMG_20190224_092143" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51718403230_af6aab5dc6_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>接連的上坡,完全沒有要跑的意思,走到7K就想折返了。但因為Celia的要求,勉強陪走到半馬折返點。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51716731327/in/album-72157720193014853/" title="IMG_20190224_095959"><img alt="IMG_20190224_095959" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51716731327_3b9e85625d_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>辛苦的攝影大哥們,雨天仍要繼續蹲點。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51716731282/in/album-72157720193014853/" title="IMG_20190224_101729"><img alt="IMG_20190224_101729" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51716731282_c1c2d65e0e_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>再次來到辭職嶺與蘭平千里石碑,爬坡爬到這已經差不多了,後面的路沒那麼艱辛了。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51717534456/in/album-72157720193014853/" title="IMG_20190224_101904"><img alt="IMG_20190224_101904" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51717534456_82656cfe48_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51716731232/in/album-72157720193014853/" title="IMG_20190224_102706"><img alt="IMG_20190224_102706" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51716731232_d08905044e_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51717791748/in/album-72157720193014853/" title="IMG_20190224_102708"><img alt="IMG_20190224_102708" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51717791748_57d735e70b_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>通過21K折返點後,馬上拆下腳上的晶片,直接棄賽。一旁工作人員看了我的號碼布顏色,要我繼續往前,但我只想回頭,趕快回去沖個熱水澡。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51718191454/in/album-72157720193014853/" title="IMG_20190224_104038"><img alt="IMG_20190224_104038" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51718191454_983b0b4194_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>折返後沒多久,全馬男總一以飛快的速度超越我們,實在太強大了。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51718191389/in/album-72157720193014853/" title="IMG_20190224_104438"><img alt="IMG_20190224_104438" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51718191389_1ed5db588c_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>掉到隊伍最後面的好處,就是沿途攝影大哥幫忙拍的照片比較好找。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51717534446/in/album-72157720193014853/" title="2048_3B6A29E4-0EC1-BC5C-2EE2-432212F2E5AC"><img alt="2048_3B6A29E4-0EC1-BC5C-2EE2-432212F2E5AC" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51717534446_f4d57ec2bb_b.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51718191289/in/album-72157720193014853/" title="SoonnetPhoto_863196b4-02e0-45d6-9fec-f0efa095c638"><img alt="SoonnetPhoto_863196b4-02e0-45d6-9fec-f0efa095c638" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51718191289_edc67557a8_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
</div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div><div><br /></div><div>最後,這場路跑的結果,Samantha辭職嶺棄賽,阿賢與2015年一樣坐回收車棄賽,無法雪恥。Celia在我棄賽陪走下,撐傘完成半馬。唯一2015與2019都全馬完賽的,就只有King了。</div><div><br /></div><div>2019.02</div>Laxichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04802970745091107114noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37782309.post-41101026013078592732021-12-03T15:33:00.001+08:002021-12-03T15:34:17.802+08:00野柳神明淨港文化祭
<div>農曆正月十五這一天,傳統上是春節的最後一天,也是新年的第一個月圓之夜,俗稱元宵節。這一天,除了放天燈、射蜂炮、炸邯鄲等知名活動外,地方上也有些民俗祭典,於是刻意請了一天假,來到北海岸野柳,來看這場全台獨一無二的神明淨港儀式。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51717507106/in/album-72157720205516232/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51717507106_f3d06ff832_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><span><a name='more'></a></span><div><br /></div><div>活動的場地及舞台在野柳漁港東岸,正對保安宮的一處小廣場。餐廳大廚與地方的婆婆媽媽,分別在主舞台的兩側忙碌著,一邊正忙著準備推廣白帶魚活動的料理,一邊正忙著活動尾聲要招待的料理。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51716704207/in/album-72157720205516232/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51716704207_4cd6b5f60d_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div>餐廳主廚準備的白帶魚料理,看起來很不錯,但一片也嚐到就沒了,殘念。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51716704232/in/album-72157720205516232/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51716704232_314801e858_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51718164334/in/album-72157720205516232/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51718164334_5874fa51fe_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>婆婆媽媽手中忙著備料,一邊閒話家常,一整個就是駕輕就熟,哪裡都可以是廚房。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51717764943/in/album-72157720205516232/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51717764943_a620616449_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51717507691/in/album-72157720205516232/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51717507691_01f4590491_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>經驗老道的攝影師,已經在對岸的長堤上,卡好最佳的拍攝位置。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51718376315/in/album-72157720205516232/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51718376315_cf68cba7ef_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><div>野柳保安宮是地方的信仰中心,主祈為開漳聖王,就是在唐朝為了加強對閩南地區的統治,命陳政、陳元光父子倆率兵前去平定南蠻,之後陳元光治理漳州20餘年,被視為漳州的守護神。</div><div><br /></div><div>據說在嘉慶25年(1820年),在野柳外海發現一艘載浮載沉的船,村民登船一看,卻不見著人跡,船上僅有杉木材、青斗石,及一尊開漳聖王的神像,於是村民將船引回,利用船上的材料建造一座簡單的廟宇,安奉神像,就成了野柳保安宮的前身。</div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51717507741/in/album-72157720205516232/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51717507741_4616a05560_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>儀式從小朋友鑼鼓喧天的表演開始,首先恭請海上守護神出巡,一同出巡的神明還有開漳聖王、周倉將軍、土地公。</div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51716703472/in/album-72157720205516232/" title="IMG_20190219_075912"><img alt="IMG_20190219_075912" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51716703472_ea48659326_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51718376350/in/album-72157720205516232/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51718376350_2db1610746_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51718164179/in/album-72157720205516232/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51718164179_84e4b0c88e_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>接著是舞獅表演,也是由小朋友操刀演出,動作活靈活現。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51717764043/in/album-72157720205516232/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51717764043_b14600fc4c_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51717764018/in/album-72157720205516232/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51717764018_9c3ddf4fa8_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51717763918/in/album-72157720205516232/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51717763918_f45e09c1e4_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><div>在木板凳上獻瑞,以及最後踩上木桶、高高站起的精彩動作,讓大家都看的目不轉睛,鼓掌叫好。</div></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51716702987/in/album-72157720205516232/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51716702987_2d7e93c795_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div>神明出巡前,五營神將先來視察一番。</div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51717506466/in/album-72157720205516232/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51717506466_82616da767_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51718163939/in/album-72157720205516232/" title="IMG_20190219_082652"><img alt="IMG_20190219_082652" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51718163939_c22b711f9f_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div>將神明請上轎後,由法師進行祈福儀式,上香致意後,將神明安置在漁船上,準備出海。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51718163094/in/album-72157720205516232/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51718163094_e1a1c05f16_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51717507661/in/album-72157720205516232/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51717507661_63012bfb55_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div>12艘漁船載著神明出海,繞港3圈,進行淨海巡洋的儀式。</div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51718164129/in/album-72157720205516232/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51718164129_4bd6bec970_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51717764798/in/album-72157720205516232/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51717764798_6af2c720d0_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51716703977/in/album-72157720205516232/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51716703977_4a8182f384_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51718376250/in/album-72157720205516232/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51718376250_c5e89b96e4_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>漁船一艘接著一艘,依序在港區內來個大迴轉,再繼續去繞第2圈。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51717507566/in/album-72157720205516232/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51717507566_7faee30798_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51718376200/in/album-72157720205516232/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51718376200_16e9d0080d_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51718164024/in/album-72157720205516232/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51718164024_d4d49a019d_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51716703877/in/album-72157720205516232/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51716703877_18c7432e85_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51717507521/in/album-72157720205516232/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51717507521_2f66b67282_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>迴轉的空間不大,船身傾斜的角度卻很大,真為船上的乘客捏把冷汗。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51717507006/in/album-72157720205516232/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51717507006_848e17ea0a_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51716703342/in/album-72157720205516232/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51716703342_43d778a523_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div></div></div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51717507061/in/album-72157720205516232/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51717507061_d377ef8b24_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51718163619/in/album-72157720205516232/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51718163619_3c635d1890_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51717507021/in/album-72157720205516232/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51717507021_23e692facc_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div>祈求漁民出海一帆風順、滿載而歸的淨海巡洋之後。在巡洋的漁船中,會有一艘載著漁獲的漁船與神明一同出航,這艘船就由最後一艘進港的天豐輪擔任。</div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51717506906/in/album-72157720205516232/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51717506906_8916d04b75_b.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51717506946/in/album-72157720205516232/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51717506946_9bf0607fa4_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div>天豐輪靠港後,將漁獲吊上岸,象徵漁獲豐收。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51716703247/in/album-72157720205516232/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51716703247_99ea12b88f_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div>卸在車斗的鱸魚,在與官員拍照後,會分送給民眾。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51717764153/in/album-72157720205516232/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51717764153_5429f8f4b3_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div>接下來的重頭戲,神明淨港,由在地壯丁擔任轎夫,抬著神轎,依序躍入野柳港內淨港。看著他們從保安宮奮力衝刺,縱身躍入2月寒冷的海中,加上周遭熱鬧的吆喝聲,整個熱血了起來。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51717764688/in/album-72157720205516232/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51717764688_522352f0d0_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51717764633/in/album-72157720205516232/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51717764633_3f6417c0e4_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div>這樣的習俗,相傳是在一百多年前開始的。一艘載著販賣人口的金和順號帆船,在風浪中觸礁沉沒,人員全數罹難。野柳保安宮開漳聖王顯靈,降乩在老漁民身上,指示村民駐守野柳外港,獻紙祭拜,以祈清淨,使得罹難者屍體沒有漂流入港。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51718163884/in/album-72157720205516232/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51718163884_1f306ae54a_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div>之後,開漳聖王透過乩童指示,想在元宵節這天入港巡視,村民遵照其意,每年這一天由幾位諳水性的信徒扛轎,跳入野柳港內,驅逐水中鬼怪,然後這項傳統便持續到今日。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51716703717/in/album-72157720205516232/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51716703717_69353efb0b_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51716703692/in/album-72157720205516232/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51716703692_d2ed43f047_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div>趁著神明游到對岸之際,婆婆媽媽準備一個早上的湯圓料理,開始自由取用。可是裡面加了香菜,又再次中了暗算。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51716703672/in/album-72157720205516232/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51716703672_f120f57733_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div>在接近正午前,五營神將開路,神明回到保安宮前,準備神明過火的儀式。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51718375905/in/album-72157720205516232/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51718375905_d78d3715ef_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51717507231/in/album-72157720205516232/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51717507231_5a417a14c8_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>法師擲筊請示後,由轎夫在神明率領下,赤腳走過點燃的鞭炮,為神明去除晦氣,象徵驅除海中的孤魂野鬼。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51716703642/in/album-72157720205516232/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51716703642_0fc7dd85e8_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51717764458/in/album-72157720205516232/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51717764458_a074d434fd_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>以前是赤腳走過炭火堆,現在改為類似炸轎的儀式,大概是為了安全的因素吧。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51717764428/in/album-72157720205516232/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51717764428_17beb27e9a_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51717507151/in/album-72157720205516232/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51717507151_33becc7323_b.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51717507161/in/album-72157720205516232/" title="無標題"><img alt="無標題" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51717507161_ee360ef66f_b.jpg" width="100%" /><br /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
</div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div><div><br /></div><div>鞭炮聲結束後,神明就要去遶境了,以保祐整個野柳地區的居民能平安順利。</div><div><br /></div><div>小小美中不足之處在於,來觀賞的外地民眾缺乏自律,沒秩序的概念可言,活動中亂擠亂跑,就為了自私地想拍到近照。而參與的法師與信徒也很隨興,前一秒身著居家服在旁聊天,後一秒袍子一披就開始儀式,給人觀感沒那麼莊重,隨隨便便。不過,整體來說,野柳神明淨港還是值得來看看,畢竟個相當特別且獨一無二的地方習俗活動。</div><div><br /></div><div>2019.02</div>Laxichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04802970745091107114noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37782309.post-15693144493090872592021-12-01T17:02:00.003+08:002021-12-03T15:33:52.947+08:00東勢林業文化園區與大雪山林場
<div>趁著過年回娘家之際,日落前,來到緊鄰鎮上的東勢林業文化園區走走。沒有預期的前來,山城的日落又快了些,手邊僅有手機拍攝,昏暗了些。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51708904524/in/album-72157720234782485/" title="IMG_20190207_164347"><img alt="IMG_20190207_164347" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51708904524_9357855041_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><span><a name='more'></a></span><div><br /></div><div>東勢林業文化園區的位置就在大甲溪旁,往谷關的路上,起初會以為是服務八仙山林場,將木材從山中運出的貯木場。其實不然,八仙山林場的木材是運到和盛(東勢大橋附近)及土牛(石岡),而這裡是貯放來自大雪山林區的木材。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51707441642/in/album-72157720234782485/" title="IMG_20190207_164334"><img alt="IMG_20190207_164334" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51707441642_aba8b20efe_o.jpg" width="67%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>進入園區就有一段橫放的紅豆杉,是目前所發現最大之紅豆杉風倒木。原本生長在埔里的國有林區,但在民國85年(1996年)的賀伯颱風侵襲後傾倒,送至此處展示。</div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51708232796/in/album-72157720234782485/" title="IMG_20190207_164928"><img alt="IMG_20190207_164928" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51708232796_75efbb7b5e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51709111715/in/album-72157720234782485/" title="IMG_20190207_164942"><img alt="IMG_20190207_164942" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51709111715_642181e1b2_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51707441602/in/album-72157720234782485/" title="IMG_20190207_164956"><img alt="IMG_20190207_164956" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51707441602_1bd26c6a96_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div><div>國民政府接收二戰結束後的日益枯竭的八仙山林區,當時百業代興,人口大增,木材需求劇增,林產輸出的收入成了政府的重要財源。如此的時代背景下,因地勢較陡峭而尚未被開發的大雪山區被相中,便著手規劃大雪山山區,放眼更大片的原始森林。</div><div><br /></div><div>接收美援的台灣,改採美式伐木系統,以氣動力工具取代日式傳統人工筏木,利用公路及卡車取代鐵道及索道運輸,將木材更有效率地往山下送。於是大雪山林區在民國45年(1956年)成立,民國47年(1958年)正式成立台灣大雪山林業股份有限公司,並於民國53年(1964年)設立專屬的製材廠,也就是現在這片園區的前身,大雪山製材廠。</div><div><br /></div><div>樹木砍伐後用鍊鋸修枝去節,依規定長度分切,切成段後稱為原木,以高曳與架空兩種方式從伐木基地吊至的鞍馬山工作站集材地,接著用卡車裝運下山。</div></div><div><br /></div><div>園區內有許多修復的製材廠時期設施,原木送來此處貯放,按市場需要加工,將原木進行改製。當時這裡號稱東亞地區最大製材廠,一貫式的作業廠區,設計完全仿照美國西雅圖大型製材廠,大量引進最新的技術,由於所需的資金龐大,九成以上利用美援資助。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51707441507/in/album-72157720234782485/" title="IMG_20190207_165058"><img alt="IMG_20190207_165058" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51707441507_6149649b4a_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>利用切割產生的廢木料,製造蒸汽的鍋爐間,以提供廠區用電。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51707441542/in/album-72157720234782485/" title="IMG_20190207_165049_stitch"><img alt="IMG_20190207_165049_stitch" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51707441542_a28e906121_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51707441447/in/album-72157720234782485/" title="IMG_20190207_165214"><img alt="IMG_20190207_165214" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51707441447_ebd16157d1_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>原木改製產生邊皮材的副產品,將其切片後存放於切片倉,成為製作紙漿的原料。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51708904449/in/album-72157720234782485/" title="IMG_20190207_165053"><img alt="IMG_20190207_165053" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51708904449_fac6e42e1d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><div>燃料倉是用來儲放廢木料,如此大一間,可見廢材量很大。高效率的美式機械製材作業看似美好,但適合鋸製形狀通直的原木,然而台灣的天然原生木,形狀不規則且多彎曲,造成損耗率過高。</div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51709111250/in/album-72157720234782485/" title="IMG_20190207_165237_stitch"><img alt="IMG_20190207_165237_stitch" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51709111250_f884820cf8_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51708904419/in/album-72157720234782485/" title="IMG_20190207_165326"><img alt="IMG_20190207_165326" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51708904419_810dcba6e5_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>原木梯是將原木送上原木台,利用輸送帶聯結的自動化機械作業,將原木剝皮、大割、翻材、柵鋸、切邊、橫切、檢尺、分等。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51708232641/in/album-72157720234782485/" title="IMG_20190207_165343"><img alt="IMG_20190207_165343" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51708232641_ca2125cf85_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51709111510/in/album-72157720234782485/" title="IMG_20190207_165400"><img alt="IMG_20190207_165400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51709111510_66e647125d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51708904104/in/album-72157720234782485/" title="IMG_20190207_165410"><img alt="IMG_20190207_165410" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51708904104_65b8114a6e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51707441317/in/album-72157720234782485/" title="IMG_20190207_165441"><img alt="IMG_20190207_165441" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51707441317_1e9c45f92d_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>天色暗著很快,就像美援時期的伐木年代,短暫輝煌後,很快就走向黃昏。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51707441267/in/album-72157720234782485/" title="IMG_20190207_165517"><img alt="IMG_20190207_165517" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51707441267_cfdb9cb70b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51709111625/in/album-72157720234782485/" title="IMG_20190207_165249"><img alt="IMG_20190207_165249" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51709111625_de8b783a9e_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51708503268/in/album-72157720234782485/" title="IMG_20190207_165533"><img alt="IMG_20190207_165533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51708503268_766aa226fe_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>園區內很大一部分是貯木池,也是目前少數保留的貯木池,目前所知且又去過的還有南投車埕、宜蘭羅東、嘉義北門。</div><div><br /></div><div>卡車將原木運送至此後,還不能馬上改製,需要先經過浸泡,等待木頭內殘存的油脂及膠質排出,工人再用工具抓取原木,利用燃料倉旁的水道,將原木送至原木梯,進行改製的程序。</div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51708232671/in/album-72157720234782485/" title="IMG_20190207_165317"><img alt="IMG_20190207_165317" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51708232671_6380469ee5_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51707441167/in/album-72157720234782485/" title="IMG_20190207_165635"><img alt="IMG_20190207_165635" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51707441167_d0b637c851_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51708904064/in/album-72157720234782485/" title="IMG_20190207_165638"><img alt="IMG_20190207_165638" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51708904064_3e50ed35f5_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51708503208/in/album-72157720234782485/" title="IMG_20190207_170225"><img alt="IMG_20190207_170225" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51708503208_6b6cc840d8_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51708904199/in/album-72157720234782485/" title="IMG_20190207_170229"><img alt="IMG_20190207_170229" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51708904199_7098ca155b_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>先進的技術本來應該讓大雪山林業公司成為台灣林業的領航指標,卻因為經營不善、市場不利、虧損連連等種種因素,民國62年(1973年)便結束營業,畫下句點,併入林務局管轄。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51707441117/in/album-72157720234782485/" title="IMG_20190207_170234"><img alt="IMG_20190207_170234" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51707441117_8d64f58062_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51709111290/in/album-72157720234782485/" title="IMG_20190207_170426"><img alt="IMG_20190207_170426" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51709111290_fe9a74c460_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div>民國95年(2006年)一場大火,將製材廠燒毀大半,東勢林業盛大的規模,繁榮的景象,沒入時間的洪流中,不禁讓人充滿想像。</div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51708904159/in/album-72157720234782485/" title="IMG_20190207_170432"><img alt="IMG_20190207_170432" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51708904159_946d8b784f_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<div><br /></div><div></div><div><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/laxic/51707441007/in/album-72157720234782485/" title="IMG_20190207_170518"><img alt="IMG_20190207_170518" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51707441007_c3d179b601_o.jpg" width="100%" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
</div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div><div><br /></div><div>2019.02</div>Laxichttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04802970745091107114noreply@blogger.com0